Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
http://car-part.com/
MAF
Can anybody please help me, I just bought this truck a few weeks back and need it for my job.
All fuses are good---under the hood fuse panel and the side fuse panel left of steering.
However, to redefine the problem:
"Check gauges" light comes on just after car warms up. Reading goes up to max 310 degrees then down again to normal and the "check gauges" light would come on.
When I turn on the heater controls for heat the AC still blows cold, then suddenly and hesitatingly, after a while, it start blowing heat as it should. It is erratic.
What could it be?
Thanks
Ken38
===
Anyway, you didn't state the pressure. Can check rather easily, connect to the schraider valve on the fuel line, if equipped and turn the ignition key. Should get pressure by turning the key, pump should kick on and pressurize the system. Another way to see if the pump is pumping and gauge the flow somewhat is disconnect the line before the filter (on the frame rail, driver side). Turn the ignition on, have a catch can under the line, and see what the flow looks like.
Also, can he (or you) hear the pump kick on?. He did check the filter to make sure it wasn't clogged or put on backwards? Better yet, he put on a new correct filter correct?
Last Tuesday morning it wouldn't start and I've had 3 diff. people try to help me start it. (Keeping in mind I'm a 21 yr. old female [poor] college student who doesn't know the first thing about vehicles)
So here's what I know.. it turns over just fine, but it doesn't fire. (Whatever that means) I've also put ISOheet into the gas tank. BUT, I asked a mechanic (he didn't look at it, I just told him about it) and he said it's most likely the fuel pump that's wrong. He said it would be about $600 to replace it.
As for my questions.
1. Does $600 sound right for a fuel pump? Also, where is it located, is it in the gas tank or the engine?
2. What else could it be? Cheaper, that could be checked out first?
If I think of anything else I'll re-post. This whole situation has gotten me so frusterated because I can't even get to work. I'd appreciate any help anyone can offer.
1. With the key turned to the "run/on" position (position right before you turn it to "crank", press the gas pedal to the floor then crank the engine for a few seconds (about 5 to 10). This puts the ECM into "Clear Flood Mode".
2. Wait about 30 seconds then try to start it as usual, just using the key, don't touch /pump the gas.
Another suggestion, as already stated, listen for the fuel pump to kick on when you turn the key. There should be a humming sound coming from the gas tank area. If you here it, it could be a clog in the line. Also could be a clogged filter, that should be checked first.
I know you don't want to hear this, but the heet could have caused the problem. Sometimes that stuff, and others, plays havoc with F.I. systems, particularly the injectors.
Could you be a little more specific in terms of how the truck was starting/running before this happened? Was it hard to start before?, in the same type of weather?.
In any event, run away from that mechanic, he's trying to rip you off. Even here, where labor is $81 - $100/hr, it won't cost $600 for a pump replacement, even at the dealer. Don't know what the prices are in MN, but as stated it may be about $200, but that pump will cost him less than what you'll pay for it at a parts store (he'll get it a "jobber's" price). The most time-consuming part of the job will be disconnecting the lines/filler neck, taking down the tank (which is a bear), the actual replacement of the pump in like 15 minutes. If it is the pump, make sure a new fuel filter is installed as well and that the lines a clear of debris and such.
Keep us posted.
When he says he want the Ignition module back - hand him the fuse and ask him WHY he can NOW tell the difference !! And I'd still DEMAND the cash back !! Missing a blown fuse and charging a customer big bucks in deplorable .... The Guy/Shop should loose Their business licenses if he does not refund your money ...
Ok, Now I've calmed down ...
it seems to be electrical. svc eng light is on. i had the ign mod tested. comp test lists cam and crank sensors along with emission sensors. i replaced crank sensor. it idles fine, but typically it will die just after it shifts and the tack drops. the only way to keep in running is to throw it into neutral and keep it tacking above 3 grand. also, it will stay running if i put it in 3rd and keep the tack above 3 grand(this puts me driving about 60mph). when i first got the truck it would die occasionally, but i could refire after i put it in neutral. now i have to sit a min or two. twice it had to sit for more than an hour to refire. i really want to keep the truck, can anyone help?
But yes $600 , when I heard that I knew I wasn't going there. I've called parts stores and the cheapest I've found is $250.00 with a 1 year warranty. I also know someone who said they would put it in for $75. So, if that's the problem it's still going to cost me but not 600.
As for the running before this happened, it's always been pretty alright in colder weather. In recent weeks it's been starting up slow but has started. If I could speak I'd make the sound but typing, it sounded like "raaeeeerrrr raaaeeer" (HAHA that's funny)
Come to think of it, in the fall time there would be times where I'd turn the ignition and NOTHING happened. Then I'd try it again and it would work. One time I had to turn it about 6 times and I was getting worried. I asked a mechanic about that, and he tried it but it never did it so he didn't know what it was. (I don't know if this even has anything to do with my current problem)
At any rate, I'm going to listen for that sound. I'm pulling another 15 hr day tomorrow. Someone also said to check the EMS Sensor fuse. Would a fuel pump for a 1991 work in my 1998? OK I'm done. THANK YOU ALL! -Lacey
Pulled the plugs (water drained out even before turning it over) and the oil pan (another 3-4 quarts of water mixed in) and cleaned it all up. After replacing the plugs and wires and putting in fresh oil, it starts fine and drives fine.
Is there anything - other than avoiding big puddles - that I should do or is what I did fine and I just avoided a big engine bill? :confuse: Thanks
And turn off your bold type.
Come to think of it, in the fall time there would be times where I'd turn the ignition and NOTHING happened. Then I'd try it again and it would work. One time I had to turn it about 6 times and I was getting worried.
You should've had it checked out then. Anyway, when the truck would do this, what happened to the dash lights, did they go out. Did you notice, if the door was opened, the dome light going out or getting very dim? Also, it sounds as though the starter solenoid may not have been engaging. Could've been from a weak battery, a sticking / bad solenoid or a heat soak condition.
I don't believe the '91 fuel pump will work in the 98, different pressure requirements. Why do you ask? Did this person who know who'll do it for $75 suggest or say they have a '91 pump that would do the trick? If so, run from them too: never put in a part someone just happens to have laying around, or would probably work.
In any event, you really need to take the vehicle to a place where the people are knowledgeable because if you don't, you'll be out of more $$
Engine starts up fine, though it seems stuck in a high idle, around 1500 where it was usually around 900. Also, went to drive it and once I got up to speed - 45 mph - started having some issues with the tranny.
It may seem like a dumb question, but could I have gotten water into the tranny? I checked the fluid and it appears there is more fluid in there, but I can't really tell. The fluid color is good since I just had it flushed not four months ago. I plan on taking it to a shop, so any thoughts you may have beforehand would be greatly appreciated.
yeah, you'd better flush the transmission, too.