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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Steve
Panama City
Maybe I'm just being naive because the engine runs fine, but could there be one main problem which would cause multiple error codes? I'll be going by in the morning to get a list of them since I found another site which tells what each code represents. I don't want to tell them how to do their job, but I get the feeling they see me as a cash cow when something 'relatively' simple could be causing the problems. Any ideas?
Thanks
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/aamco.htm
http://badbusinessbureau.com/results.asp?submit22=Search+All+The+Latest+Rip-Off+- Reports+Now%21&q1=ALL&q2=&q3=&q4=&q5=aamco&q6=&q7=
I did make them give me the codes that were pulled, but all have to do with the TP sensor, MAP sensor, Mass Air Flow Circuit and IAC System High RPM. Don't know how those relate to the tranny, but I guess they do.
I'll get it situated at some point. Thanks for advice.
Steve
Panama City
My peliminary thoughts are that it's either a fuel filter, the fuel pump, or may be the aniti-theft mechanisim malfunctioning. Has anyone else had a similar problem if so what was the diagnosis? Just trying to save my self some time and money and get er' back on the road.
" I also have a 2000 Sonoma. My Sonoma also recently went dead. I turned on the truck, it ran for maybe 3 seconds and then it went dead. We tried to jump it too but nearly melted the cables. There is no electricity at all, no lights on the dash board, nothing. There is also no head lights. Any idea what happened? "
This does not sound good ...
As it "did" start and run a few seconds - I'd check the following;
Possibility # 1.) Battery is OK but you have have a major cable open - Check Cable leads to / from battery, Engine, starter, Grounds to Engine, frame, etc. etc. Remove the Batery leads, Check the battery Voltage, Check the cables / resistance on all leads. Use a Volt/Ohm meter ...
or - 2.) You have a real major DEAD SHORT. (the fact you melted your jumpers indicates this my be the problem) - A Short In the battery - or in the Truck. Remove the Battery leads, Check the battery for Voltage and if at 0 volts - check for short between terminals. Check the +12 cable for contunity to ground. If it's in the Truck - Start disconnecting ONE cable point at a time with the OHM meter hooked up and Isolate the short ...
I'm hoping it's the battery - or an easily found short (Cable rubbing, bad starter/Alternator... Alternative is you fried all the electronics .... Hope not ...
Good Luck - Let us Know what you find!!!
What could be the problem exactly? Where can have it checked?
Sorry about the bold type.
Could be a number of ABS things - but check your sensors on each wheel. Wires my be cut - sensor / bracket bent - too far away from the rotors - so it can't sense the wheel spinning ...
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Thanks,
toby_pitt
Code read po171 which is lean on left bank. First, I changed plugs and fuel filter...no change. Changed both of the 0/2 sensors..no difference. Changed tp sensor and the map sensor...same thing. Disconnected exhaust to check for bad Catalytic converter..same thing.
Fuel pressure was fine....at idle! At speed and heavy throttle, the pressure would fall quickly. I changed out the fuel pump and PRESTO!!!! Problem solved. Damn thing runs as good as new now.
I pulled off the bed of the truck and the fuel tank was right there. 8 15mm bolts, and a couple of electrical connectors and it lifted right off. Made my life easier.
I had a 93 Olds - Mostly ran fine - however when you were accelerating - say on a ramp to get on the highway - the engine would bog down when you needed the power most.... It took the Shop a couple hours to find the issue (They almost changed the air flow sensor) - but it was the pump... At Idle the pressure was OK. At higher demand - the pressure dropped. IT had well over 100K mi at the time .. Cost me about $600 if I remember right ...
Per my 2002 S10/Sonoma GM Service manual ...
It looks like a dark green wire come from the C Breaker to the Windows. Breaker is listed as "Relay Block Body". Location is listed as "Left Side of Dash, to the right of the I/P fuse block"
Hope this helps ... (If you are in snow belt - I hope the Windows failed when they were "UP" and not "Down" ;')
canufixit
:sick:
good luck
Any suggestions
If the Tranny and Cluch have been removed - I was thinking the starter could be aligned wrong and it's "jamming" on engagement - causing the statrer to bind / overheat, etc .. but you have few clues ... can you elaborate ?? Did all the pinion Gears Looks new when it died ??? Etc ...
Does the Signal light work on the drivers side when you turn on the left directional (with Ignition on ??)...
Two more Questions ...
- Does your 3rd break light work OK ?? (Both with ign on and with it off ) ??
- Try you Flashers - both with ing on and off ...
Let me know what you see ...
There are two paths to the Stop/Turn signals ... I'm trying to figure out with path to trace ...
Canufixit ..
flashers work ign. on & off
yeah, I can not figure it out. I look under the truck i see the wires running along drivers side & splitting 1 goes to drivers side rear light mount & 1 goes to passenger side and ends it looks like.thanks for responding I am puzzled
As the LR Brake light does work "in some confguration" - I will assume that the rear wiring is OK .. (Bulbs, contacts, Rear wiring ground , etc. etc .. - I assume you have checked these as we'll ....??)
The Schematics are just terrible to follow - but I can say this ...
There are multiple feeds paths to get power to the lights "up Front" of the vehicle (12v is always on for the Break lights - Power when the ign is on (for the Signals), etc ... As the Domestic version vehicles should be using the same side light bulbs for the Brake and turn - I'm assuming the issue is on the "Ign on" feed path.... This comes from various locations - and in summary I'd check the following;
- Fuse in the interior fuse box (left end of Dash) - Check
"Turn" fuse
- In engine Compartment Fuse Block (Left side fender) check these 3 Fuses/modules;
Stop LP
Lt Turn
CMSL (Center high mounted Stop light)
For all Above -Pull, Clean, check fuses for contunity, Replace if in question, etc. etc...
The Final Item it might be (and I hope not ) is in the "Multi function Switch" - But this is in the Steering column ... Before I'd go in there - I'd take it to the Dealer ....
Hope this helps ???
Canufixit
P.S. Thanks PRP1010 for your response post dated 12/22. I hope you come up with a cure for the problem.
Thanks,
DJ
I finally got under the truck and checked all connections. I un hooked the connection going to left rear light mount Tried the lights (nothing)straightened all wires cleaned all prongs plugged back in .Now everything works . I did also find a blown fuse Under hood (10A)I am so glad I didn't pay for this fix.
Thanks for the reply. I have tried the remedies indicated in the owners manual, but they are only TEMPORARY changes. As soon as the ignition switch is turned off and on again, the original factory settings are replaced. For example, I know that pushing the "dome override" button 4 times will turn off the daytime running lamps, until you shut down the ignition. Same is true for the door locks. By pushing the lock switch through a particular sequence, it changes when the doors are locked; until the key is switched off. I will look into the device known as "Mactools Mentor" and find out if it can be of help here. Thanks again -Bob
I figured the cat con was plugged so I replaced it..to no positive effect..the new one is glowing just as brightly in no time..however there is a lot more exhaust getting through...still no power tho and S E S light is still on..
any help? :confuse: