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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • okay so yall told me to disconnect the battery and wait for a while then reconnect, and the 4wd should work. i must admit that i was dubious about this "quick fix" but it worked... for a while. the truck ran like a champ and would go into 4wd when i wanted, but recently a new problem arose, i was traveling down the interstate at about 75mph and the truck dropped into 4hi on its own, it scarred the heck out of me. so i pull over and take it out of 4hi, did not do it again for over 3 weeks. last weekend i was in town from college and it started doing it again, it continued to shift into 4hi on its own so often that i ended up leaving my truck with my dad and drove his truck back to school. he brought my truck by my mechanic and the mechanic who specializes in 4wd's but not the newer ones that are computer run is not shure what is wrong with it. is it possible that the problem is the transfer case controle module has gone bad and needs replacing? any ideas on what it wrong would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks
  • Any idea's of how to quieten a very noisy fuel pump on a 2000 S-10 , It's driving me mad. Thank you
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Mathematically, you've indicated that for the past seven month you've been adding a gallon of coolant per week. That comes to about twenty eight gallons that went somewhere. I would think that if it were a head gasket leaking internally you would be changing out an engine by now. If it were a head or intake manifold gasket leaking externally you would be smelling it by now. If it were a heater core leaking you would be swimming by now.

    Last summer I had to change the intake manifold gasket on my V6 because it was leaking coolant on top of the engine. In my case it was evident by the smell and the puddle of coolant on top of the engine. Next time your under your truck shine a flashlight up on top of the transmission bell housing where you can see the backside of the heads. Maybe some coolant is getting away from you there and evaporating when it hits the exhaust manifold and pipes. If so, it will leave a tail-tail sign. In cases where I've seen coolant seeping out externally around head gaskets it hasn't been to the extent where it would take a gallon a week. However, if that's the case and you want to buy some time, maybe you can try some stop-leak.

    p.s. don't forget the jack stands. :)
  • greyttgreytt Posts: 1
    Hello. Happy owner till recently., 2002 s10 crew cab 4x4 57000 miles, dealer just told me i needed a $1000 fuel pump!! Does this seem extreme to anyone else? Symptoms: truck cranks longer and longer in the morning after sitting and evening after sitting for periods of time. starts fine during short times off.
    joe4739@gmail.com i've filed a "complaint" with GM. :lemon: ?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    GM has had problems with their fuel pumps. I have owned GM products for 17 years and 6 vehicles. I never had a problem with a fuel pump, but I followed some simple maintenance procedures. First, change the fuel filter every 20,000 miles. Second, never let the fuel get below 1/8 or 1/4 tank. If you like to run on empty, you will wear out the fuel pump because the gas actually cools the pump. The gas is cooler than the air in the tank, especially during the summer months. Finally, it is not a bad idea to occasionally put a fuel cleaner in the tank. Good luck.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sounds like a fuel pump to me. I replaced mine about 2 months ago. It was an all day job but it saved me a few bucks. Most of the shop ticket is labor. Instead of removing the bed I elected to drop the tank from the bottom. Bad mistake, I succeeded but if I do that job again I'm going to loosen the bed and slide it over out of the way.
    Good luck.
  • sounds like your intake gasket is leaking this is a common problem should have been a recall but its not i have had the same trouble out of s-10 and silverrado
  • 2004 S10 Crewcab with electronic 4wd suddenly stopped going into 4wdHi. Under warranty, so took back, bad connection on plug at T-case. They cleaned it and it's ok. Maybe you want to check all those connections closely; could be that simple.
  • not axactly sure why they say no towing other than the suspesion or tarans cooler but im quit sure you can pull that jet ski
  • auto zone sells 18 inch electric fans and thermostat to control the on and off it is easy to install and you wont exsperince all that roar mine sounds like a tornado when i start off very distracting
  • there is a fix i found it on a s-10 crew cab side it requires removing a vacum line in behind the glove box i have the same problem its hot as hell in my truck due to thi its not the heater control it was just a dumb factory decision
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Can you please post the source and/or details???
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Your reply is to a post 5 1/2 years old. I installed an electric fan on my s-10. If you have a/c its a whole different ball game. If you don't wire it correctly you can blow up your compressor.
  • Belated thanks. After I found and replaced it, I discovered that the problem was my burnt out wires about 4 inches from it that I didn't find until my new VSS wouldn't work. Thanks again
  • are you still having those noises. i have a 2000 s-10 ext cab 4x4 and it also makes these noises when you start and stop and turn and it seems the warmer it is the more it does it. I also grease the fittings regularly. anyone who has a suggestion would be appreciated.
  • marcb2marcb2 Posts: 9
    I went to drive my 97 s-10 3 weeks ago and backed out of the drive. when i tried to to put it in first gear all that happended was the gears kept grinding, no matter what gear i tried. had it towed and the mechanics said he saw nothing wrong but thought it might be a master slave between the clutch and transmission. so i had that slave and the clutch replaced to the tune of a little over a grand. had it back for 2 weeks and was out on the interstate going 75 mph and all of a sudden it popped out of 5th gear. after a few minutes, i realized all i had was 4th gear. anyone else have similar issues? if so, what was the cause and fix? feel free to e-mail me at marcbuchanan@yahoo.com
  • has it ever overheated? you could have a bad head gasket, or warped head. what is your temp running at? a bad head gasket will not make it skip if the water is going into exhaust. does it look like steam coming out of tail pipe?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    First he should check the motor mounts to see if one is broken and causing the transmission to move around; then check the linkage and linkage bushings to make sure that 5th gear is fully engaged. If the linkage is going through its full travel, and the bushings that connect the linkage aren't worn then definitely it's an internal transmission issue...worn shift fork or sliding sleeves or something like that excessively worn. This problem is not related to the last problem he had.

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  • marcb2marcb2 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply. Am I looking at a costly fix for any of these or are they prety simple inexpensive fixes? I'd hate to drop another chunck of money into this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    A broken motor mount or trans mount wouldn't cost too much, and replacing linkage bushings wouldn't be terribly expensive....but if you have to dig into the transmission itself, that's a sobering repair bill.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dkurrledkurrle Posts: 20
    Hello, can anyone tell me if a fuel filter would help with a rough idle?? What are the benefits of changin the fuel filter? I own a 2003 ZR2, 4.3 L V6. How difficult is it to change one? Could someone give me a step by step explanation? thanks
  • dkurrledkurrle Posts: 20
    2003 Chevy ZR2. Hi, i dont know if i am a little parnoid or what, but it seems like when i hit a good bump, or lets say a railroad track or something it seems like something does not feel right, kinda like something might be loose. Kinda feels like something is shifting, or kinda rattling. I know this probably doesnt make sense, but what could it be?
    ALso how common are ball joints to go bad on a zr2?
  • Hi, The dash lights, including the radio/CD player, do not come on when I start the truck (2000 GMC Sonoma) in the dark morning. They do seem to work when I start the truck during daylight. The doom light will work, but only for a few seconds then it start going on and off. Have checked all fuses and they seem fine. Tried starting this morning with a flashlight on the light sensor on the dash, but it didn't help. Any thoughts? Thanks much, Jim :confuse:
  • This is a general question. I bought a 1993 S-10 just to have a small truck for getting things done around the house. My turn signal/multifunction switch which works for the mist, turning signal and high/low bream, but does not work for the wipers. I called a Chevy dealer, close by, and they could not find a turn signal/multifunction switch in their parts book, all they could find was the turn signal only. Need a part number if anyone has it?
  • just picked up this truck a month ago and this thing doesn't accelerate very well at all, even up the smallest of inclines. the motor also 'drops out' at 15mph in 1st, 20-25mph in 2nd, 30-35mph in 3rd, which takes downshifting in an emergency (or uphill, which is a must in this city) out of the question. i've grown pretty tired of impeding traffic and would love to know if this is a known issue, or if there is anything i can do to make this thing work normally. is this an air, fuel, exhaust, trans, or ECU problem? any help would be much appreciated. thanks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    If it was cutting out or bucking as you accelerate I would guess plug wires or coil. If it ran ok but was like pulling an anchor I would guess catalytic converter. Has it had a tune up lately like plugs and clean air filter. I had a similar problem one time in the past but not as bad. Finally found a cracked vacuum hose fitting to be the culprit.
  • marcb2marcb2 Posts: 9
    Well, as it turns out, the mechanic told me, to the tune of $2300 it was the tranny and I'd be surprised if the truck is worth that much on trade in, considering it had 158,4?? miles on it. Sooooo, needless to say, I suppose its trade in time on this truck for a newer one. For anyone considering an S-10, with the exception of the tranny now, the truck really has not been a bad vehicle for me. In my opinion, it was worth the 13 G's I paid for it slighty used. It has lasted me a good 6 years and 118,000 miles. Definatly a recommendation from me and have started looking for another S-10.
  • just replaced plugs, wires, air filter today. and which coil do you mean? will experiment w/ cat. tomorrow and check vacuum hoses, because now that i think about it, there's also a hissing when i hit the pedal. hmmmm....
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
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  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Okay - I will try and answer this to the best of my Memory (I did this on my '01 S-10 almost a year ago. The handle is a cheap piece of plastic. Once you get it apart you can immediatly tell why it snapped.) Anyway, replacment is simple. If you don't have a new door handle the best way to get one is off E-bay. You can go to the dealer but you will probably pay several times what it is worth. I bought mine from an E-bay store called S-10 Wharehouse or something like that. I think I paid like 20-30 bucks. I can't remember, but it was brand new. You might also try a salavage yard but I wouldn't trust this particular part because it is already so flimsy that a used one is pretty prone to being snapped. For that matter a new one is pretty prone to being snapped the first time it is used :).

    Anyway, now on to replacement. You have to undo the bolts bolting it to the door and you also have to take off the panel on the door. If it weren't the middle of the night I would go out and make sure I was looking at the right things, but the bolts are all torx bolts. T-50 or T-45. The panel snaps off, but you have to undo the seat belt anchors. Once you get those off if you are fairly mechanically inclined you should be able to pull the old handle off the latch mechanism and put the new handle in in it's place. It was pretty straight forward for me and I didn't have any real problems. I had never done it before nor did I know what I was really doing, but I just jumped in a started removing bolts that were around the door handle and looked to see what might need to come off to get to where I needed to be. (not the most recomended way, but as long as you remember what came off where and put it back the way it came off you should be fine :))...

    If you don't want to go through all that you can just leave the handle broken and pretend that you don't have a third door, since the new handle will probably break again right away. Luckily mine hasn't and it has been probably a year since I replaced it but I will not be surprised if it breaks again. I know people you have replaced the 3rd door handle 3-4 times.
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