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MINI Cooper
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Comments
The larger size and weight a car like the 350Z would make it a much more relaxed and comfortable highway car, but much less nimble and fun to fling around.
Unlike a RWD car, a FWD car can be a better car with less power. In the Mini's case, I think 160-hp or so sounds like about where the limit is, but of course, this depends on how much you value good handling vs. straight line performance. Someone who really values having better balance between chassis and power, might actually prefer the non-S.
The original Mini had something like 50-hp and was an absolute hoot to drive. You don't need 17-inch wheels and 200-hp to have a very fun car.
- Mark
With the traction control off, even the Cooper has more than enough power to get into trouble. Mash the throttle at high speeds in the middle of a corner with the ASC+T/DSC turned off and you'll understeer right off the road. 200HP just backs it much easier.
When the original MINI came out the VW Beetle was one of its main competitors with its 45HP rear mounted engine. The Beetle did 0-60 in about 30 seconds or so and was considered the benchmark. 8.5 seconds for the Cooper is already a rocket in comparison.
Extra horsepower is still useful in a FWD car for passing and getting to high speeds but it isn't much use off the line as the Cooper can spin the tires with ease already. Even with a 63:37 weight ratio there isn't enough weight in front to counteract the lifting action.
I traded an 1850lb Geo Metro in on my Cooper. The Cooper feels solidly planted in comparison and still feels solid compared to many heavier cars due to its tight suspension (cars passing by our family station wagon make it jiggle while the Cooper is rock solid). The Cooper is light enough to be very tossible, yet the suspension is tight enough that it can handle the power. Much more than 150HP and you really need AWD or RWD to use it IMO.
MCS vs. 350Z is quite an apples to oranges comparison if you think about it. Sure, they both have 4 wheels and a piston-style ICE with some previous model history but after that they are hatchback vs. sportscar, RWD vs. FWD, Japanese vs. Europe/UK. The RX-8 would be a much closer comparison for the 350Z.
Not to imply that YOU aren't a good driver---the point is: Master the car you have, then go for more HP if you think you need it, after having your "underpowered" car completely at your bidding to do as you command.
Having driven only the regular Mini and the S, I would buy this S, because the base Mini doesn't have enough torque. But the S's HP seems more than enough for anything I'm capable of doing on public roads.
And Markjenn was right about the original Mini. It had less horsepower than today's cheapest 4-door Korean sedan, but there is still to this day hardly a more fun car to drive.
So I'd suggest forget about the numbers on paper and just drive each car and see how it feels to you. If you romp the gas pedal on a Works Mini too soon in a high speed turn and it scares you half to death, it might not be your cup of tea.
Really good sports or sporty cars are about BALANCE, not HP numbers.
1. Does anyone know of any MINI dealers that would sell at MSRP and have a shorter wait?
2. Does anyone know what the implications are of buying a vehicle out of state and then registering it in California? Are there additional state taxes to be paid?
I'd call around, in an increasing radius, ask how long the wait and what the price of your spec car would be. Then ask about getting it to CA. Since the cars have been out so long, you should be able to find lots of salespeople who are experienced in registering to CA. Don't forget to ask for something like 'out the door price' since dealers like adding $500 here and there for stupid stuff that's extra profit.
The extra expense is really just getting the car home. Shipping or flying out and driving it.
Thanks!
Also, does anyone have the aftermarket armrest with the storage ($159 at Minimania.com)? Any opinions? (And anywhere to get it more cheaply??
One bit of advice -- don't wait until after you take the car home to ask for reprogramming. I made this mistake and they wanted to charge me $50 to reprogram the "push-and-hold" feature on the key to open the windows instead of pop the boot and to have auto-locking doors at 12 mph. They said it was because they weren't requested upon delivery. Of course, they didn't offer it on delivery, but that didn't seem to matter. Service desk told me to ask the sales rep if he could do anything. Sales rep said I had to talk to service. Ahhhh, BMW service at its finest!!!! Out of principle, I didn't have the features reprogrammed.
On the lighter side, this was really the only negative aspect of my purchase. 15 months later, I still LOVE this car (even without the auto-opening windows and auto-locking doors).
As for the center console, I also heard that the '03's were going to have one, but it seems as though that never materialized. I thought about springing for the after-market one, but decided it would probably be too small to have any practical value (especially at $159). Also I was concerned that it may not fit quite right and would result in a cheaper-looking interior.
There are listings of the options, but month by month they change, so you need to, when you pick up your car have them plug it in and tell you what they can program, then decide. It takes only a few minutes. MINI did have a policy of asking beforehand what you wanted programmed, but I'm not sure that's universal, nor is it updated as options change.
It does depend on the dealer, often if you go in for service for something else, they'll reprogram free. Also many software updates obliterate your settings anyway, so they have to ask what you wanted.
Programming also changes depeding on the dealer's software. When I got my car 1 1/2 years ago, they didn't know how to program daytime running lights, a later update of their computers and a call to the mysterious head office got it figured out a few months later.
I've read that w/ turbos you're supposed to let the car idle for a few minutes after a hard drive to let the turbo "cool down". And, you should change the oil more than a non-turbo engine would need.
Does this apply to a supercharged engine? Any other type of "maintenance" required?
Beyond that, there isn't much maintence for the supercharger, part of the reason it was probably selected over a turbo. GM's got tons of supercharged cars running around with no problems to speak of with that setup.
I suspect if you search other cars' topics with superchargers (like any of the GM's I've mentioned) someone may have said something in that thread...
Now, there are only 1 left if anybody interesting take it asap.
http://www.powerblocks.com/benches/travbnch.html with the pictured dumbbells plus a large 26 or 30 inch inflatable gym ball http://store4.yimg.com/I/exercise_1753_7174559
and a very large gym bag and some kind of small folding cart/dolley (to carry everying out all at once) all fit inside a new Mini with the rear seats folded?
Does anyone have large high resolution photos of the cargo area loaded and/or unloaded?
For those into racing, my trip this past weekend to Watkins Glen Racetrack for the Fall Vintage Festival had many of the Mini's of old on the track and holding their ground. They still draw the crowds and are a blast to watch race.
Ray T.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Choose from the lot.........no waiting !
If you buy one from Prestige send me an e-mail (address in my profile) so I can add another knotch in my belt for referrals. LOL
Let's Motor !
Ray T.
can it install alarm with aftermarket? Will it spoil the factory warrenty?
Our Mini S (With run flats) has the tire pressure indicator light come on occasionally even though the pressure is fine. I have come up with theory (until I visit the dealer) that it has to do with heat. It only seems to happen if it is hot out or sitting on a parking lot during the day.
Anybody have the same experience?
Isn't the tire-monitoring system merely a computer chip monitoring the ABS/traction systems to check for pressure differentials? So even if one tire is too HIGH it will trigger the system. Make sure they are all the same pressure as each other.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If they have that many sitting there, I'm really surprised the wait is so long. Guess folks are pickier than I suspected.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Call your dealer and ask, they should know about it. It includes an interior motion sensor, a tilt sensor (in case someone tries to tow the car) and adds a blinking LED to the end of the stalks. Its probably also on MINIs site.
MINI expects the cars to be ordered, unlike most other brands, the point is you get a car to your exact specifications. With the amount of options, its not a case of being picky, its just because you can. Most people buying MINIs don't need a car this weekend, so they take the time to get exactly what they want. Its also more profitable for MINI of course, because not keeping cars in inventory saves money. Most of the cars on the lot are ones people ordered then backed out of.
any idea how much for the aftermarket?
1) I am trying to decide whether or not to add the DSC. I'll be driving in rain, snow and sleet. Seems like past posts indicate differing opinions. What are your current ones?
2) They offer All-Season Run Flats; do you change these tires for snow tires? I thought the purpose of All-Season tires was their ability to do well in all kinds of weather. What did I miss?
3) Has anyone installed the Invisishield. Looks really neat. Wondering if it works, if the glue does any damage to the car, if it's worth the price.
4) For anyone who has the leatherette seats, how do you like them? They seem like they would make you a bit sweaty. What are the cloth seats like?
I appreciate any words of wisdom. I can see pros and cons to many of these items and would appreciate taking into account real world experiences.
2. All season tires should really be call no season tires IMO. They are best in no situation, OK in most. Performance all-seasons particularly are a joke in serious snow. I chose to get performance summers for summer and winters for winter so I get the best traction in all conditions.
3. I don't have an invincashield but I do have some rock chips...
4. I really like the leatherette seats. They do make you sweat a little on the hottest days but not much more than real leather or even cloth. Plus, with AC for summer and seat heaters for winter, you can deal with the sticky afternoons and cold mornings.
With the exception of the 17" Goodyear RSA tires, they aren't even as heavy as many people say compared to non-runflat tires, perhaps a pound or two heavier each, not double the weight as some suggest.
The ride is a bit harsher but not as much as people say. Test drive 15" and 16" shod Coopers, the latter which comes with runflats, and see for yourself.
Once they've worn a fair bit, both my Goodyear Eagle summers and my Dunlop WinterSport snows (both runflats) are noisy but most tires I've owned have become noisier with wear. The Goodyears are really getting worn now and may be on their last legs (not sure it'll be worth putting them on next summer as I doubt they'll last the season before going completely bald) and they are fairly noisy, especially on rough pavement, but I can still hear the fan on its lowest setting so they aren't as bad as some others I've had (Firestone Affinity, just awful).
I have a Cooper which could accommodate a spare but I like the runflats and will be replacing them with runflats when the time comes.
You get traction control standard on the S, I haven't driven with DSC so I can't offer any help, I never felt that the car was unsafe without it in rain sleet and snow, and in snow especially the car would slide a bit but always controllable, I'm not sure that'd get defeated with DSC. You can always turn DSC off though, but that'd also remove ASC. I'd be inclined to get DSC if you don't expect to drive at the limit where it might get in the way.
I fully agree with Hpulley, all-seasons are a bad idea if you expect to get actual snow. Just spend the money on a cheap set of alloy rims and snows and you'll be happier in the long run, and you can run performance summer tires. I can only think all seasons would be good for somewhere that gets snow once or twice a year, and they're killing your summer performance while doing that.
I don't know how you'd know if the glue did any damage to the car until you removed it... which is probably not common on invisishield, but it does protect from chips from the installs I've seen. Of course its best done by someone who has previously done a MINI so they know what they're doing.
I had leather seats, no help on that discussion, sorry. (They were nice, not sure if they were worth $1200 though)
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The summer tires are downright dangerous. The snows I got (blizzak ws-50's) allowed me to easily go through all snow and ice as long as it wasn't much deeper then 5" since snow plowing with a MINI doesn't work well. I drove through at least 10 storms with the snows and never once felt like the car was out of control. SUV's were busy piling up like flies on the side of the road with all-seasons on though, so while driving style has something to do with it, I was very much in better shape then they were.
Can you tell me which dealer gives out discount? A million thanks. (Just want to feel better if I don't have to pay MSRP :>)
I would also be interested in a dealer who would at least include the mats for no extra charge. When I asked this of one salesman, what I was told is that the sales force is all salary. There isn't a large markup on the cars so it's like Saturn in that here's the price - there's no room to haggle. As far as including accessories to help the buyer feel like they're getting some sort of break, that's where the sales force gets a commission so they're not going to just give that away. The salesman made a big deal about how the sales force was told to give the owner's friends the best customer service but the price is the price.
My initial reaction is to think that I'm being told a "story" but I figured I might as well ask if anyone can confirm this.
Up to now mine hasn't been garaged so it has also been through some winter. Only real problem there is the glass isn't that hard. Road sand caught in ice under the scraper causes some scratches like I've never seen so be careful when ice scraping or use the defrost options instead and be patient.
Anyway, If you want cheap floor mats, a few dealers sell parts as a discount (as much as 30% depending on the item and its markup) so you can just call one of them and get the floormats for less then $100.. I do know however if you have the option of going to another dealer, you have more bargaining room, just get a price quote from another dealer, even if its an hour or two away, and see if you can make them fight. You're in more of a problem when you're somewhere with only one close dealer.
I doubt the salespeople I've dealt with are not commision based on the cars, they always seem to not mention it, and no one ever said the price wasn't negociable, like saturn (BMWs certainly have negociable prices on less popular models), its just demand says there's waiting lists at MSRP, so why should you pay less. Your salesman is making up excuses (and poor ones at that) on why you should pay MSRP. I don't except you can get a discount (check the residual values, paying MSRP is a good thing, unlike horribly supplemented cars whose value drops like a rock)
GO FOR IT !
Let's Motor!
Most of the problems were quick fixes like back of driver's seat trim popping off and topping off the coolant (seems like there were air pockets from the factory as it wasn't leaking but went down in level a couple of times) but April I needed a new tranny and the doors and windows started acting Christine-like so the car was off the road for a while for a new gearbox and electronics. They gave me a rental all that time but it still wasn't fun driving Ford Windstar, Taurus and Protege cars. Anyways, getting back into the car after the repairs made it all OK again.
I haven't heard of any recent cars having those troubles. There were some recalls on the original 5-speed tranny and on the seals to some of the electricals which got wet and corroded on my car (that recall wasn't done here for some unfortunate reason) -- hopefully they're sealed right from the factory now. Enjoy your testdrive and let us know.
Mine is also IndiBlue, Ray. Great choice ;-)