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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair
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I have done two things - turned the steering wheel so the tire is at an angle, and used a rubber mallet on the inside of the tire to knock it loose. Another approach is to GENTLY lower the wheel to the ground with the bolts out [but the wheel locator tool in] and let a little weight of the car break the binding between the hub and the wheel.
And it's harder than you think to hurt anything here - these assemblies are designed to take a lot of punishment. The best approach has been the rubber or plastic-headed mallet - might want to carry one in the car. The thing is to not let the wheel get away from you when it finally breaks loose, since that is when the damage can occur.
Thanks for your quick response - I'll try what you suggest. Also thanks for the great idea to keep a mallet in the car.
- paul_p
Thomas
This year in New York you can't pass inspection with that light on. The dealership wants $900 to change the air mass flow sensor, yet they say the light could be caused by something else, in the absence of typical symptoms.
Any ideas about how to deal with such situation?
Also, look in your phonebook for independent MB shops - the dealer is always the high-priced spread, and not always necessary if the car is out of warranty.
This small part redirects the airflow just a bit but was introduced on later models due to the buffeting concerns. You could speak to the dealer if it's not there and maybe they can attach one.
Another option is to just crack the side windows an inch or so as that relieves the pressure inside and cuts down on the 'booming' sensation.
JR
Sincerely, AlFed
Stu
You could try just putting your fist at that point just sticking out of the roof when open to simulate the effect that piece has.
I don't know if the dealer can retro-fit this piece under some TSB but it looks to me like it would require a change of the part that pops-up because it's part of the trim of that part. There could be an add-on they developed for the older cars that glues on (like a spoiler). It would be worth asking.
Good Luck,
JR
Last Friday, I paid for computer diagnostics at a dealership, and the result is quite interesting: they got the code for faulty MAF sensor (nothing else), then checked the sensor itself. It works fine, judging by the voltage, they explained. They cleared the computer codes, but during the weekend the Check Engine Light came back. So I can't pass inspection.
I called the dealership today and they only suggest changing the sensor (which works). This expensive proposition does not sound logical.
What would you do?
AlFed
I had this mass air flow sensor tested by a dealership, because they were getting the only faulty code for this part on their computer diagnostics. But it works fine, they told me, when they tested the voltage.
Should I go ahead and change it anyway?
What are the symptoms for a faulty throttle actuator?
Alfed
The faulty throttle actuator should make itself known by stalling, inability to accelerate when you hit the gas...things that could feel like a bad fuel pump or injection issue, but in fact can sometimes be the electronic doo-hickey that substitutes for a throttle linkage these days.
REST button on the climate control allows the fan to continue operation after car has been turned off to maintain cabin temperature. Many people do not realize that if you just turn off car while A/C has been running, water drops will form around the coil inside. It is like water drops cover over a cold bottle of water. These water drops could collect inside and grow mildew and other odor causing stuff.
I have heard recommendation that before you turn off the A/C, you supposed to let the fan run for few minutes without A/C compressor running to warm up the evaporator coil so water drops do not form around the coil.
Same rules apply for the home A/Cs.
Hope this helps
I need some help/advice:
My 2005 C230 Sport Sedan, six speed, has a strange vibration between 20 and 30 mph from the front end. The dealer diagnosed the problem as something in the transmission. They discovered a casting flaw in the transmission housing and decided to replace the entire transmission. This was a two week process due to parts required from Germany.
The new transmission did not solve the problem. I took it back and they proceeded to subsequently diagnose the problem with the following resolution:
Repositioned Exhaust, Repostioned Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing, Removed and Isolated Heat Shields and Sound Insulation Shields. This was another two day process.
The problem persists....again between 20 and 30 MPH. I had the tires checked and balanced etc. If I get up to speed and put the car in neutral and just coast at 20 to 30 mph while not in gear the problem persists....not the tranny I would assume?
Has anyone else had a problem like this? If so, any solution? I would appreciate any help as I love the car and really enjoy driving it. Only 13K miles on it and I had hoped for a lot more than that before moving on my next car.
I also heard that rotors need to be changed every time. Is that true?
Thanks
YR :confuse:
The rotors typically will be an every other brake job thing, unless you drive it like you stole it.
Even though you had the tires checked, I'm wondering if maybe one of your rims is slightly out of round, or if their is a defect in one of the tires.
I hope this helps.
I'm going to return to the dealer just have them double check the work performed to see that everything was replaced properly after the last round of service. Overall though, I love the car. It looks great, performs great and sure gets a lot of looks and compliments!
I hope this helps.....
Regards
Tony
'This is a known problem, we have had several of these.'
P71
You should also look into the Lemon law guidelines in your state if you are e-mailing from the US. Your car is going to give you a lot of trouble and the cost to fix these cars are very, very high after the warranty runs out. My C240 has a lot of problems. You are early in the ownership of your car so you have a great chance to maybe get out of it now. It wont be easy but it might be worth the try.
From reading your posting, it seems that you have brought your car in for service on three separate occasions for the same problem. Again, you should look into the lemon law when you have a moment.
Regards
I have devised a way to to check it out for yourself if you are into that. First I jack the car up
and spin each wheel fast enough to see if the tire and rim travel in a straight line. They are
never perfect (unless you spend a lot of money on tires and rims) a little is not that bad. If they
are not too bad then put a lasar level across each front wheel pointing at a wall around 3 to 5
meters away. I use bungee cord to hold the lasar level tight against the wheel. Mark the lasar
dots' location on a level line on the wall.
Now measure the distance between the levels where they stick out foreward from the tire making
sure they also are measured level longitudal and laterally. Let the weight of the car down on
the tires and get the lasars pointed at the level line on the wall that you made for the first
measurements while letting the weight down(so you dont need to move the lasar from it's
position). Mark the lasar dot locations on the wall in a different color pencil.
Measure the distance between the ends of the levels again. If the measurements between wall
marks changed when the weight of the car was appied then there is wear in the
steering linkage. Compare the level end measurement with the distance between the lasar
marks on the wall. If the dots on the wall were further apart than the lasar ends were then the wheels are pointing outward. Rear wheel drive cars are usually designed to have "toe-in" of somewhere around 1/16th up to a whopping 3/8 inch.
They allow more for vehicals that will be towing stuff or hauling heavy loads which changes the
toe a little under those conditions.
If your rear wheel drive car has some
"toe-out" then the symptoms would show up at certain speeds as a fluttering vibration. The tires
would be drifting outward as they roll and shifting back to center repeating quickly giving you the
vibration. It stops as the speed changes because the quick shifting of the tire back to center begins
to transform to a constant slip. If the exclamation point is flashing on the dash when the vibration
happens then the transmission will act differently to reduce loss of grip to the road. I have the same
car.
Also measure the fronthub to the backhub on each side just to be sure they are the same.
Do it a few times recentering the steering wheel each time to get an accurate measuremnet.
If they are not then the wheels location on the suspension has shifted and will cause some of
this too. It is easily adjusted but not if the frame is out of square. Then you'd need a frame shop.
Unless you want to start building some tools which could be fun too.
waade7
And you have to let them have your car during that time. "Got Milk?"
I have the Mercede-Benz C230k 2002 / 56k miles about almost one year, when I start in the morning the niose very bad, after 3 munites the niose is normal.
2nd problem is the"CHECK ENGINE " Lights on, the Light show up almost 3 months ago, I do not know what to do and the car is running O.K so far.
My Question is What is the most problem with my car?? Is it big problem??
How Can I check the Code of Check Engine Light on???
Please help me out.!!!!
Thanks,
Long cranking is subjective - I'd have to count how many seconds it takes before it fires to know if there is something worth pursuing here. More than 5 seconds would be grounds for having it looked at, but It's possible this is just what they do when they get 90k miles on them. Yes, injectors are a possible suspect, and I don't know if they are a generic weakness in this engine, but 90k seems premature to me. It could be the cold-start circuit - that part of the computer software that determines how much extra fuel to give it on a cold start. If it seems to run roughly all of the time, then it can only be fuel or ignition - are the plug wires OK?
The '02 is actually a different engine, but not much better in terms of refinement - your cold start noises are probably just what it will sound like pretty much forever.
CEL [check engine lights] are simply not something that can be diagnosed remotely. You must get the car to someone who can read the codes from the Onboard Diagnostic computer, because there are literally dozens of possible causes - some simple and cheap, many not. If you live in a state with regular inspections, the car is going to flunk until you take care of it. Some of the auto parts chains [Autozone, etc] will attempt to read the codes for you at no charge, but they aren't likely to be able to solve many problems even with a correct diagnosis. There is no substitute for a good independent MB mechanic if you own one of these cars out of warranty - ask around. And this is a good opportunity for me to remind everyone that this is one of the reasons that the MB Club of America exists [MBCA.org] - members can help each other out on these kinds of questions.
On the 2004 the ride has gotten very rough after 35K miles and the roof makes a thud like sound when I go over bumps. The outside temperature is now wrong also, it went as high as 149 degrees the other day and is always 6 to 20 degrees higher then the actual temperature. I will take it into the dealer on Thursday. We'll see what happens. I'm wondering if anyone else is having these type of problems.
One thing for sure, the 2005 is a much better built C class. .
Ross
If they have had the car for that long, and are telling you that it is going to cost that much money, then you need to tell them you will take your business elsewhere because they are totally incompetent.
I brought my C230K in at 500 miles becuase it drifted to the right. The dealer performed an alignment, raised it a little bit and added some bolts (I can't recall the technical name and don't have the paperwork in front of me). Anyway, the car continued to drift to the right so I took it back in. I was told that because of the sport suspension and performance tires the car will naturally drift. I bought that explanation and moved on. Now it is a year later and I have 11,500 miles and see that my front tires are very unevenly worn. I go back to the dealer and explained there is obviously a problem. They perform another alignment and give me two new front tires. Once again I drive off only to find the car still drifts to the right. I go back and they tell me "ALL" cars (Mercedes, BMW, etc) with a sport suspension and performance tires will drift. He said that the wear on my tires was due to the car being out of alignment; but (I can't tell if I have an alignment problem if the car is always drifting to the right). The car is doing the same thing as when I brought it in at 500 miles. Can anyone tell me if this is statement about all cars with sport suspension and performance tires is true? And or point me in the direction of some sort of written information about this. Thanks.
Problems include the following:
1. AC shutting off without me touching the controls and unable to turn back on, (only to have it come back on --without me touching the controls--by itself a few minutes later).
2. The thermostat increases in temp without me adjusting it. (The temp only increases, it never decreases by itself).
3. AC continues to run AFTER I turn engine off and remove key from ignition.
4. Fan motor mysteriously speeds up or slows down while operating in "manual" mode.
5. AC blows ambient temp air and does not cool even though the thermostat is calling for 68 degree temp air.
I've pulled the 2 fuses and re-seated them which seem to help sometimes. Any insight or suggestions are welcomed. I plan to take the car into MB dealership next week. Fortunately I have an extended warranty!
I did call another dealer this morning and they told me that this problem is common with the C230 as well as other Mercedes models. He said that Mercedes won't do anything about this issue and that it has come up repeatedly. He also said he has sat in meetings with the sales reps and their answer to the problem is not to let go of the steering wheel.
I hope other dissatisfied MB owners will start speaking up about this problem and force MB to make it right.