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Ford Windstar Problems
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p1407 EGR no flow detected,
p1131 lack of upstream heated o2 sensor switch lean bank1
p1151same as above but bank 2
p0171 bank 1 system too lean, and
p0174 bank 2 system too lean. I cleared the codes and took it for a drive and once I got back ck'd codes again with no codes showing. I dont want to throw parts at it unless needed. any ideas on where to start?
Thanks
I have just joined the "Intake manifold gasket $600 replacement" club. This included replacing a "updated" valve cover, isolator bolts, intake gaskets and vacuum lines on my 2001 3.8 Windstar.
I am going after Ford to cover all or portion of the bill for this design flaw. At some time in our upcoming discussion, I would love to hear from any other memebers of the gasket replacement club to reinforce my claim. I am prepared to go all the way to a court date.
I am in Canada, though all Windstar owners comments would be helpful.
I have just joined the "Intake manifold gasket $600 replacement" club. This included replacing a "updated" valve cover, isolator bolts, intake gaskets and vacuum lines on my 2001 3.8 Windstar.
I am going after Ford to cover all or portion of the bill for this design flaw. At some time in our upcoming discussion, I would love to hear from any other memebers of the gasket replacement club to reinforce my claim. I am prepared to go all the way to a court date.
I am in Canada, though all Windstar owners comments would be helpful.
I'm on my 3rd alternator for my 2002 with over 75000 miles.
First one went at about 60,000 miles ,no X warranty 350$ at a local shop. They claimed overuse of front and rear A/C, but I suspect my wife jump starting a friend's old diesel P/U too many times.
Shop claimed the 2nd one must have had a fault and failed JUST shy of one year later, so they replaced for labor only (40$).
The vehicle give almost no warning when the alternator in going.
It just runs a little rough for a few hours (engine sounded like it was working extra hard), the battery light comes on and it dies.
No additional trouble other than needing to get a sliding door lock re aligned.
Jon
I've tried all of them up and down and does not grab any gear. No other code shows up. Thanks!
I have replaced the EGR sensor on the back of the motor, and the EGR valve on the front. The sensor was a real pain in the neck.
If you get any great advice, please let me know as this is getting very frustrating. I have never owned a vehicle that I had to drive around with a CEL on all the time, and it really bugs me.
it is a 3.8. My husband wants to know if it is a free wheeling engine. The engine acts like it is locked up.
Did you go after Ford for the repairs? I've tried but so far only polite kiss offs. I am going all the way to small claims court to get them to pay for defective engineering. If it comes to that, I'd love to document your and anybody elses story regarding the intake manifold problem.
Regards, Peter
If anyone knows what the real problem is with our van, please let me know. I am equally frustrated and don't want to throw away money on multiple oxygen sensors with the hopes that we will eventually, through trial and error, solve the problem.
You need an ABS capable scanner such as a Snap-on MT2500 to extract any stored trouble codes and watch datastream into the processor.
" Also, is it true that if ABS is not working, regular brakes will still work"
Yes.
AutoZone had one for $35 but only went up to 95 models. Like I said, I have a 96 model and need some help.
I know I may be asking alot, but please, take into consideration, I am a woman, young at that, and I have a useless husband! PLEASE ANYONE HELP!!!
Thanks!
By "useless husband", I assume you mean he does not work on cars. I am one of those too. But I take the cars in when they need service, not my wife...I hope your husband is at least enough of a man to be the one who takes the vehicles to the dealer, or wherever, when they need service.
I have a 2002 Windstar and have been experiencing the same problem for months. I had the car looked at by a very good local shop (Not a Ford Dealer) and he was able to determine that the actual components (speed sensor or whatever, I have forgotten what he said the part was) were working even though the warning light was on. He also assured me that if the brakes would continue to work even if the ABS system did not. We took my son to college 14 hours away through the Smokey Mountains without an incident. Although I will admit I was thinking about the "Brake Warning Light" being on during the 1/2 hour drive down a 6 % grade decline coming out of the mountains.
Interestingly enough my dashboard cluster has the "Airbag Light" on even though the affected part has been replaced once at the dealer (It was the seat belt buckle so I know it is working even though the systems says it is not working). The "ABS" and the "Brake" light is on even though I had the system checked. The best is now the "Check Engine Light" is on. Probably the oxygen sensor. Obviously the guy that made the part to run the dash board cluster is the culprit. I don't feel like taking the car to a dealer for a "Carte Blanche" parts replacement. I really think the problem for Ford is when somebody gets killed because of these defective parts that the dealers can't really fix. I was told by the dealer after they kept the car for 2 days about the AirBag that they had talked to Ford and Ford had no idea how to stop the 'AirBag Light" from coming on even after the part was replaced. The dealer told me to"Just be carefull". Gee, I never thought of that.
So what if the Brakes really are bad and my wife and kids get injured because no one can fix it properly and we've been told to drive the car but there really is something wrong. I guess I only have the "Battery" light and the "Oil Pressure" light left to go on before the dash board looks like a Christmas tree.
Good Luck.
>>
Interestingly enough my dashboard cluster has the "Airbag Light" on even though the affected part has been replaced once at the dealer (It was the seat belt buckle so I know it is working even though the systems says it is not working).
>>
is it possible that at one time, it was the seat-belt buckle, but now something else? for example, wonder if it is your clock-spring, the device that maintains electrical continuity to the bag as the wheel is turned from the far left to the far right and back and forth...
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to bring the car to a Ford dealership that someone the family knows to have this problem looked at again. Unfortunately they are about 30 miles away and scheduling is difficult. I don't mind paying to get a broken part fixed, I understand things don't last forever, but after experiencing an $ 800 dollar oil change "Plus a bunch of stuff I didn't need or ask for" at a Ford dealer I'm a little apprehensive using Dealer repair shops.
The seat belt buckle involved 3 trips to the dealer, without a car for 5 days and I was told they had no idea what was wrong after consulting directly with Ford about the problem. The distrustful side of me wonders that no one is really looking for the source of the false readings because of the "Repair Bonanza $$" it brings the the Dealership repair shops.
Hopefully all will be fixed on the next (I hope and last) visit to the Dealer.
Thanks for your thoughts
First, thanks for the fix.
Another potential problem we found was in the door gasket area. :mad:
Located at the top of the van's sliding door opening is a gasket that had shifted forward when compared to the other door. The end of this gasket was trapped against the pillar (between the sliding and front doors) when the door closed. The gasket bulged out at the end causing it not to latch properly.
We re-adjusted the gasket (OK, we just slid it back into proper position..a little) and while it wasn't a 100% fix, it is closing more frequently now.
We'll try your uplifting door experience/experiment. Maybe then we will experience 100% 'closure'. We'll let you know.
Just say no to FoMoCo,
Clint
How can the service engine soon light be disabled????
HELP!
This happened over, and over again. Until he just disconnected it. No problem until last year. Our state required an EMISSIONS TEST when the car is inspected on models 1996 and older.
The check engine light had to come back on, and the real problems began. I had two 02 sensors replaced, along with some other sensors. within two weeks because the light kept coming back on and I had to continue to take it back to the mechanic. After paying $1,000 (Sept 04) I thought I was through. But before I could get it inspected, :mad: the light came back on. I just left it, no inspection, and took it back in last week. IN about one year I have spent $2200.
Is there any end to the check engine light problem????
seems like it's possible it may be mis-diagnosed by your mechanic... if you want to stay in the vehicle, i suppose i'd bring a record of everything done to it, and take it to someone else.
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2002 Windstar SE (53,000 miles)
All Standard equipment
Dual Power doors
Rear entertainment package
adjustable gas and brake peddles
power driver seat
quad seating
one accident (over $4000 damage)
clean well kept interior
Thanks
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Now after a $240 repair, we had another chugging cold start (engine is missing)
and the service engine light comes on.
Any ideas for what to do, would be appreciated.
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Ford Windstar problems
2066 messages, Last post on Oct 04, 2005 at 4:33 PM
This discussion is part of the Vans & Minivans Message Board.
Your Host is claires
What is this discussion about? Ford Windstar, Van
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We just had a fuel injector replaced after a chugging cold start and the service engine light going on.
Now after a $240 repair, we had another chugging cold start (engine is missing)
and the service engine light comes on.
Any ideas for what to do, would be appreciated.
Just a week ago we had replaced the # 6 injector which cost $65 for the part and $170 for labor.
Now, we are having rough cold starts, and once the engine started missing.
We added an injector cleaner to our gas tank, and on the next start our check engine light went off.
Any ideas for avoiding another $235 repair?