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I also want to mention something that happened to me. I travel a lot for my job and one time I rented a 2007 Chevrolet Impala with flex fuel. Nice car...until it died on me on a deserted stretch of highway in New Mexico and the nearest town over 50 miles away!
Interesting on the Impala because we have a troll in the 2007 Camry "problems and repairs" board bragging about how wonderful the Impala is!
Do you know what was wrong with the car? I assume you were able to phone the rental company for help.
When it happened I was able to phone the rental company when the car died, just barely though; I had one bar on my signal strength!
It was around 8 PM when this happened on NM 550 between Cuba, NM and Albuquerque, NM. The rental company sent two cars out that night and gave one to me(Hyundai Elantra)to take back to Albuquerque and the two guys had to babysit the dead Impala until a wrecker truck could be found. It was a good idea for them to bring another car because it was cold that night. I left them on that dark lonely highway hours later glad to be in a Hyundai and not a Chevy Impala!!
I was told differently. I just checked Toyota's website and it says for the 2003 Camry that the timing belt should be replaced at 90,000 miles.
I was told the 2007 I-4 is the first 4-cylinder engine with the timing chain......and that prior V-6's had the timing chain, but not the V-4's.
Read my previous post about your timing belt. The Toyota website says to replace it around 90,000 miles.
Another poster said you have a timing chain....I am not sure if that is correct. Your dealer can't lie to you about a timing belt or chain....they are two completely different things.
The Toyota maintenance website makes no distinction between the 4-cyl. and the V6? Dealers? Well, the salesmen aren't necessarily going to know, but certainly the service manager should!
I do appreciate the help and I'll call the service manager and see what that person says.
I got the "Malfunction Indicator Light" (aka the Check Engine Light, I believe) on my 2000 Toyota Camry V6. So I took it to Autozone and the instrument showed 2 error codes. Both the error codes were the same:P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1).
1. Are the error codes absolutely accurate in pinpointing the problem?
2. Do the 2 error codes mean I have to change TWO oxygen sensors?
3. If I buy the Bosch OEM part myself, how much would a mechanic typically charge to replace ONE or TWO O2 sensors?
4. Anything I should be aware of when I talk to a mechanic?
5. How serious is this problem? That is, how long can I continue to drive till I get it fixed?
Thanks,
K
2. Do the 2 error codes mean I have to change TWO oxygen sensors?
3. If I buy the Bosch OEM part myself, how much would a mechanic typically charge to replace ONE or TWO O2 sensors?
4. Anything I should be aware of when I talk to a mechanic?
5. How serious is this problem? That is, how long can I continue to drive till I get it fixed?
Thanks,
1,) "absolutely" accurate ... of course not. Reasonably good, yes
2.) no, you have 1 sensor (the first sensor on bank 1), which the system is indicating is "probably" bad.
3.) don't know as I do maintenance myself, but I would think maybe an hour of shoptime.
4.) well if you are going to pay a shop to do the work, it is usually best if you allow them to buy the part and charge you for it. Otherwise they could claim that the part was defective, not of high quality, not the right part, not even needed, yada yada yada.
5.) The engine computer uses all of the sensors, to adjust fuel mixture and timings of sparkplug firing. WIth a bad O2 sensor, the engine doesn't know exactly how much fuel to put into the cylinders, because it's not getting a good reading coming out of the cylinders and can't tell how well the mixture is burning. You run the risk of damaging your catalytic converter by dumping excess fuel into it, or burning engine valves if too lean. You don't need to drop everything to immediately fix it, but I wouldn't be driving it around for weeks or a lot of mileage.
In your case it is the 'heater circuit' of the sensor. This circuit is used to heat up the O2 sensor when you initially start the car, before there is enough heat from the exhaust gases. If the sensor doesn't come up to temperature fast enough, it throws off that error code. So I suspect you have minimal risk once your vehicle is warmed up, but I'd get it fixed when reasonably do-able.
Good luck
I called the Toyota dealer in Asheville and the service manager confirmed that my 2003 Camry 4 cylinder has a timing chain and she confirmed that the website was incorrect. I must say I'm a little surprised that the website is incorrect but then again Toyota has lots of cars and I guess it would be next to impossible to be totally correct each and every time on every model/year on a continual basis for a website.
All the more reason to own a Toy!
Is this the stuff that is supposed to work for 10 years or 100,000 miles in my Camry before replacing? It also appears to not be pre-mixed, becuase it talks about mixing on the bottle, but I guess that's not a given.
The label should clearly indicate if it's full-strength or requires dilution with water. It sounds like you have the full-strength type.
How many air filters does this camry has?
Is Cabin air filter is same as AC filter located behind the glove box?
How often do I have to clean/replace the cabin and engine air filters?
Now windshielf washer fluid and coolant fluid is at its low level. What kind of fluids should I add into that? toyota only fluids or any thing?
For coolant do I have to mix it with water in 1:1 ratio and if yes then distill water from supermarket should be ok?
What about windwasher fluid? Distill water should be fine?
Thanks for all the suggestions and advices
In order to head light to switch off automatically after you lock the door, head light control should be at Auto.
He called me an hour later w/ a list of things that he said they noticed as a result of their policy to check all aspects of the car. Reasonable poicy, but the mechanic stipulated that the following items should be replaced/done to the 99 Camry w/ 80K miles:
- new battery
- transmission flush
- fuel system tune
- clean lube and adjust brakes
All this for $350 (plus $25 for the patch). I checked my owner's manual and didn't find any of these suggestions. Also, the previous mechanic didn't mention any of this when I brought the car in for its 75K check up. Am I being taken for a ride here?
Many thanks, Mark
For instnace....how old is your battery (4-5 yrs?), and did they do a free battery/alternator check that autoparts stores would do to determine that you need a battery?
adjust brakes???? front brakes which do the majority of braking are disc (which self adjust). Does your parking brake hold? or does that need adjusting?
I agree with kiawah: the battery can be tested for free at most large auto parts stores like Advance or AutoZone. Fuel system tune is a just a money-maker; unless the car is not running properly, do not bother. Transmission flushes are another big money-maker; sure the transmission should be drained and refilled periodically, but not every 15-30K miles as these places would have you believe.
As for the brakes, the only adjustment needed is for the parking brakes. You can tell if you have to pull up on the center lever a long way for the brakes to hold on a hill with the gearshift in neutral. (I believe the owner's manual may give the number of "clicks" when the brake is adjusted properly).
I would never take my vehicle to these kinds of service operations. Just check the "net" and you will see why! I take my vehicles to the dealer. I make it a point to develop a professional relationship with one service advisor, and the service manager. They understand what I want and expect in terms of service. I have all my service done by the selling dealer. I even purchase my tires at the dealership. Should something go wrong, I am not caught between a tire store, and the car dealer. The dealer installed and balanced the tires, and they performed the alignment. It something is not right, it is their problem!!!!! In terms of oil and filter changes, it is their oil, their filter and their mechanic doing the service. If something is not done right, and the engine fails, it is Toyota's problem! My warranty is safe!
Best regards. ---- Dwyane :shades: :confuse:
I look at the headlight control stick, there are a few options. 1. Off 2. Daytime Running Light (DRL) 3. On. Am I suppose to put the switch at DRL? I will give this option a try, it it still doesn't work I may need to go to the dealership.
Thank You for All the Responses
If you have the switch in the "on" position, all lights, including the headlights, parking lights, and taillights, will be illuminated. Once the car is shut down and locked twice with the remote, all these lights should go out.
Thanks for information. What you described is what it looks like would have to be done, but thought I would ask first.
Thanks
Most tensioner arms have some have a wrench point, which will either accept a 3/8" or 1/2" square drive (that a breaker bar, or rachet would fit), or a molded in bolt head (that you could put a socket or closed end wrench on). I prefer using a breaker bar as opposed to rachet, so you have control in both directions. You don't want the tensioner to snap back when you take the belt off, relax it gently.
2004 Corolla Tensioner
So following the guide would be a good idea.
Installation is the exact opposite.
Take to a mechanic (doesn't have to be the dealer) if you lack the confidence.
2,000 miles later, the maintenance required light is now on and we're at about 30k miles. Unfortunately, we do not have the service maintenance schedule.
What's needed for 30k miles maintenance? and how much does it cost?
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Here's the link: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins.