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Chrysler Sebring Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • styxstrastyxstra Member Posts: 3
    any ideas on what is wrong with my car!
  • lcmardewlcmardew Member Posts: 1
    my car has only 23000 and appears to be leaking transmission fluid in the middle of the engine. my dealer just replaced the transaxle to solve the problem but the leak is still there. has anyone experienced a similar problem in the past, or do you have any ideas of where we should be looking for? i can't find a tsb on the problem for my vehicle. thx
  • newportnewport Member Posts: 1
    hi
    my 2002 convertible has developed a fault. when braking it intermitently will make a kind of thud.it feels as if its not shifting gear correctly. when accellerating the gear shift is fine - like wise when driving in manual its all ok.
    i have had 2 suggestions - one is sludge in the gearbox another is have the computer checked. his is not so easy as there are no sebrig dealers here in England- any ideas?

    thanks

    Mark
  • petelpetel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring with an automatic transmission. My problem is that it will shift hard and bounce between gears,I think it is kicking in & out of geer."the tack will jump and then a "clunk".there is also A clicking noise when I put it in drive or "R" It has a little under 90,000 miles. No-one can seem to pinpoint the problem. Does anyone have that problem? what is it
  • 2002owner22002owner2 Member Posts: 2
    recently began experiencing a hard shift from neutral into drive that became accompanied by slipping as the trans warmed...took it to a local reputable trans shop and had issue investigated...turns out that a metal bushing connected to the fluid pump on the inside trans broke apart and did some damage to the trans all the way back through the torque converter...as the trans tech told me sooner (than probably later) the trans would have just stopped operating. my only caution to anyone who has started to experience this too, get it checked and save the $1600 rebuild i'm paying for.
    has anyone else run into this problem?
  • 2002owner22002owner2 Member Posts: 2
    see my post #512...may be connected. i'd get it checked out real soon.
  • dotcomprodotcompro Member Posts: 2
    Hi All! I have a 2002 Sebring LXI sedan with 81K miles. I'm currently praying that the car will last longer then my car payments to Chrysler Financial which end 4/2007!!!

    Several times when I'm travelling at a slow speed, I feel a bang from the transmission when it down-shifts. There is no problem at high speed and the problem is intermittent. I spoke to the dealer today and he said that a computer software patch could be installed to adjust the shifting speeds. I bought the Chrysler Care Extended Warranty, so my deductible is $100 assuming they find a problem. I'm covered for a rental car as well BUT not on the initial visit and NOT until they find some problem. Is always something with this auto maker! Has anyone else had this problem and how was it fixed? :confuse:
  • dotcomprodotcompro Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Sebring LXI Sedan has had FOUR, I repeat FOUR transmission leaks ALL from different causes! Just unbelievable! One leak was in the Auto Trans Solinods which required replacing the solinod unit! On was a hose on the upper part of the engine that was loose. Another was the Auto trans box gasket. I can't remember the other one. :cry:
  • joeh5joeh5 Member Posts: 3
    Hello-

    I just bought an '06 Base sedan (4cyl) and it is awfully loud! Seems like a Geo Metro when it starts! I pull up somehwere and people look at me like I drive a pile of junk..the car has 16,000m miles! Any ideas of the LOUD 4 banger on this car? I too have noticed a slight humming. :(

    JH
  • umesh1umesh1 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2002 sebring with 45,000 miles on it. I experienced the same problem. I felt bang between 30 -40 mph during decelaration. I took it to dealer under extended warranty/Power train warranty. They replaced Pump, Torque converter, shaft, Seal package, Fluid etc. I paid $100 deductible for this cost due to warranty coverage. I got it fixed today (03/20/2006) so yet to see how it functions.
  • lasclasc Member Posts: 1
    i have a 200 with 64K miles, just starting to experience a hesitation and difficulty shifting into drive. did you get any response to you post, any advice
  • nolimits865nolimits865 Member Posts: 1
    My car just started the same problem but mine didnt start until my serpentine belt broke and i tried to get it home by boosting it off so whats my problem???
  • lorietoupslorietoups Member Posts: 3
    Just wanted to give some information that really helped me. My Sebring would not start. We thought initially it was a dead battery however the car would turn over it just wouldn't stay on unless the gas pedal was depressed... Here's what I did after my husband got mad and told me to fix it since I thought I knew everything. First thing is when you disconnect your battery or it goes dead sometimes your computer requires "retraining"...it is supposed to go back to factory settings but my didn't.

    I changed the #8 fuse in the fuse box inside my engine, it's a 20amp yellow fuse for the ignition... After that the car would start and stayed on but started shifting hard...that's when I did more research and saw the info about the retraining of your computer...thought that was gonna be to easy of a fix but it worked along with a new battery..Just be careful after you initially reconnect the battery because my car stalled out alot the first day. After the retraining procedures I did and a transmission fluid change man the car is running like brand new..so here's some info I found while researching:

    Some Chrysler transmissions, for example, can experience a "bump shift" condition. There’s nothing wrong with the transmission, but the computer needs to be reprogrammed to recalibrate the shift points. In Chrysler three-speed automatics, changing the fluid to ATF+3 can also help eliminate harsh shifts.

    Some transmission problems may require "retraining" the computer. This is also necessary if an electronic transmission or computer has been replaced. Chrysler TSB 18-24-95 describes the retraining procedure that allows the computer to relearn the correct shift points.

    Disconnect the battery to erase the computer’s memory.
    Reconnect the battery and start the engine.
    Drive he vehicle while trying to maintain a constant throttle position as it accelerates up through all four gears. If the transmission is shifting properly, it should be in 4th gear by the time you reach 45 to 50 mph. Repeat this procedure from a standing start 15 to 20 times.
    With the vehicle traveling at less than 25 mph, do five to eight wide open throttle kickdowns to get the transmission to downshift to 1st from 2nd or 3rd gear. Drive in 2nd or 3rd gear for at least five seconds between kickdowns and remember to kick it down only when you’re going less than 25 mph.
    While driving at 45 to 50 mph, do five to eight part to wide open throttle kickdowns to either 2nd or 3rd from 4th gear. Again, continue driving for at least five seconds in 4th gear between kickdowns.

    Some people said switching the on/off worked for them but I had no luck with that.

    Well.. I hope this might be hepful to somebody.. I was an angry woman on a mission...
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • mitchg00mitchg00 Member Posts: 8
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Sebring...auto transmission jerks when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Was your problem fixed? If yes, what was the solution? Thanks.
  • eddieroeddiero Member Posts: 1
    would this apply to a 96 LX coupe? my vehicle had to jum started after sitting a few months...when started, the stereo and ac didnt work. i checked the fuses and sure enough they were blown. the ac works great, but the infinity system has no sound but the player works. since then i have had "slipping", "bogging down", and "sticking" with the tranny. i had it checked less than a year ago and it was in perfect condition. any ideas?
  • pacfaapacfaa Member Posts: 1
    The button on the shift selector (automatic transmission) keeps sticking in the depressed position instead of locking into a gear. While the button is depressed, you can freely move the selector through all the gears without it connecting to anything. This has happened so far when I am attempting to put the car into Park. Of course this leaves me kinda stranded because I cannot just leave the car nor can I get the key out of the ignition. After fiddling around with it, the button eventually pops back out and the car is properly in Park.

    So far the dealership has lubed the button, then on the second visit, they "reset the shifter cable stop, removed burrs from around shifter button locator" and yesterday the problem happened again. This week the car will go back for a third visit. I'm not impressed!

    Does anyone have any experience with this? Any advice I can offer the dealership so the problem gets fixed this time? Thanks!
  • bloodysebringbloodysebring Member Posts: 2
    On the way home yesterday, after driving for about 45mins, the Speedometer went dead on my Automatic 2000 Sebring. The car kept running. The car started to rev higher and higher if I would excelerate and very shortly after the ENGINE light came on. The engine didn't conk out or anything. All fluids looked good (trans, oil, etc). It was as if it wasn't sensing when it needed to change gears - a result of the speedometer collapse maybe (?). Is this a SENSOR problem? Or a TRANSMISSION problem? Any other suggestions? Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. Is this a big fix or something I can do myself?
  • nikita2nikita2 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem, Its a sensor that its located in the transmission. :shades:
  • bloodysebringbloodysebring Member Posts: 2
    Thanks!

    I did also find out that it was the Speed Sensor - much as I had suspected (despite dozens of others telling me that I would need a new transmission!).

    Cheers!
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    how much was that sensor???
  • gundi57gundi57 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased this car from Enterprise Rental last October. Drove wonderful in the test drive...quiet and smooth. Within 2 weeks I had the car at the shop because loud popping noise from under the hood. They said it was just the fuel injectors and that was just how it would be. OK. Come to find out that the routine checkups that should have been done by Enterprise had not been done so we met in the middle cost wise for them to bring the car up to date. Recently it has been feeling like the transmission was slipping...sluggish getting out of first to second gear. This morning it seemed to slip from second to first gear if I was going less than 40-45 miles an hour. I have made an appointment for tomorrow at the dealer but would love not to have to give them any money if I can help it. Any suggestions? :cry:
  • 96convert96convert Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    My first time on this site. Have a 96 sebring convert with 120k miles and basically happy with her. I would double check the trans fluid and filter and when last changed. I have found that sometimes if the fluid is old/weak or low that you could get some slipping.
  • gundi57gundi57 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. Was starting to get concerned about the car...it only has 64000 miles on it.
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    do trainy tune u r u leaking red fluids ? if so change the gadsket and filter on trainy tune up ok 70 bucks at trainy place k try that and if u CRANK SENSOR ABOVE THE TRANSMISSION GOES BAD ON THESE CARS WILL ACT LIEK IT DIES OUT IT MAY START AGAIN TOO ITS GOING BAD CHANG IT 65 DOLLER SENSOR AT AUTOP ZONE 65 LABOR PUT IT IN SUMWARE NOT BAD AT ALL IF U EVER GET HESTAIONS DOA TRAINY TUNE UP ALSO 70 BUCKS OK NEW GADSCETS AND FILTER IN THER ALL U NEED U BUDDIE AND EVERONE ELSE TO WHO DIES IT CAME RIGHT UP ON THE SCANNER WHEN THE GUYS DID IT FOR FREE FOR EM THX NICK CRANK SENSOR CHANG E IT
  • sugababy1sugababy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2004 chrysler sebring. It has 50,000 miles on it. When I first get in the car, crank the engine, and put it in gear (any gear), I hear a "click" as the car goes into gear. I only hear this noise when the car has not been driven for a few hours. I also heard it once or twice as I was backing into my garage after driving it for a while. The transmission fluid level looks fine.. The car drives fine so far. This mainly only occurs when I first start the car after it has been sitting for a few hours.. This has been going on for at least a month now. Do you have any idea what the problem could be?
  • dakidddakidd Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 96 chrysler sebring that I love and Im running into a problem. The problem is it wont go out of first gear. Ill be driving down the road just fine and then the RPMs will go sky high then bam go into first gear. Wen I turn the car off and let it site for a while, start it back up it will drive fine the do it all over again. I was told its the censors, is this true and wear is it at? :mad:
  • merober26merober26 Member Posts: 4
    Just needed to have a new rebuilt tranny put in my 2.7 v-6 at 68,000. Fluid looked clean, ran fine until suddenly one day the check engine light came on, I pulled a code 700 from the self diagnostic check, started to wine, shift erratically, then finally go into limp mode. The shop said there was metal shavings in the pan. My suggestion, be very diligent in your tranny flushes and changes on this model. They recommend every 36,000. I Know I will be doing it. The sad thing is I just bought the car and it was 10 days and 800 miles outside the dealer warranty.
  • peletonpeleton Member Posts: 1
    When it is cold out I get a loud noise on startup that appears to becoming from my transmission. It is a rumbling, almost like a fan rubbing against a housing. The sound goes away once the engine is warmed up. I had a new timing belt installed thinking that might be the cause. If I shift into neutral the sound goes away. Car has 107000 miles. Shifts fine, fairly quiet on the highway.
  • paisano0724paisano0724 Member Posts: 2
    The other morning while I was driving to work I was going around 40mph when suddenly my 2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertible died. When I came to a stop I was able to start the car again. The engine sounded OK and I didnt find anything fluids under the car. When I attempted to drive the car again it wouldnt shift out of 1st gear. It is an automatic. The speedometer stopped working and the digital shift display (PRND23) has all the squares are lit up. I recently had to have the starter fuse replaced and I know the mechanic checked the electrical wiring. I have replaced all the fuses just in case including the PCM/ASD fuse as well as the ASD relay. Does anyone know what has happened. I dont have the $$$ to have a shop look at it since I just spent $136 to have a .50 cent fuse replaced last week. Please help.
  • kczyblnd41kczyblnd41 Member Posts: 2
    i too have a 2002 sebring it has 73,000 miles and needs a new transmission. started out not shifting into gear from park to drive. my husband checked the fluid level and it was low. then it started jerking when it would go into low gear, when slowing down.then we noticed it was leaking underneath. took it to the dealer and they said it had no fluid and they tried replacing the pan or something i really don't know what it was. then they said it needs a whole new transmission gonna cost 3,000 dollars!! have alot of people had problems with this transmission? i am curious as to whether this is a wide spread problem.
  • kczyblnd41kczyblnd41 Member Posts: 2
    this is exactly what mine is doing. as i type this they are replacing my transmission and it better fix the problem!!!
  • paisano0724paisano0724 Member Posts: 2
    I dont have the $$$ to bring it to a shop and have them fix it. How hard is it to locate and get to the transmission to change the speed sensor? I am a car idiot and need as much help as possible. Besides how hard can it be to change a sensor?
  • badinvestmentbadinvestment Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 sebring with 82,000 mile and have been experiancing the SAME ISSUES! My car consistently jerks back and forth when I'm coming to a stop or slowing down. It then started not going from reverse to drive. I noticed it was leaking a red fluid and took it in. Fluid was low. They reconnected a hose that had come loose from the transmission. They also did a diagnostic test on the tranny and said everything was fine. About 2wks later I took the car back in because it still was leaking. They examined it further and determined there is a small leak in the Selnoid Pak in the transmission and I need to take it an expert for replacment. My dilemma is after speaking with a few mechanics and asking if having this part replaced would correct my problems, they say possible unless there are other things going on with the transmission. Well, that does not help. One mechanic told me to fill up the fluid and if that corrects the problem then it is the selnoid, if not, then there is more going on there. From what I've heard, Chrysler Sebrings are notorouis for transmission problems. Wish I would have know that b4. (also have a problem with the air blower, won't work on speeds 1-3, only 4. There seems to be a lot of people with that issue also. The problems this car has seems to be wide speard!!)
  • flashc5flashc5 Member Posts: 2
    im in the same exact boat as you guys

    i had a leak so I replaced the coolant hoses to the tranny.
    now I have a hard down shift around 25mph

    im not sure what to do with the car.
    has anyone fixed the problem yet?
  • mgilmo1969mgilmo1969 Member Posts: 5
    I have a similar noise takes about ten minutes to go away. thought it was coming from one of the catcons sounded like the front one is rattling inside. dealer looked at it but could not really hear the day it was there. outside air temp needs to be below 25ish over night to hear it long enough. dealer forman said by the description he thought it was a catcon cuz its not uncommon. anybody else have this? 50k miles
  • merober26merober26 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same noise at startup on cold days, although it sounds like a secondary gear, or alternator under load type noise. Eventually it does go away when the car warms up. I've heard its a common noise. Does anyone think that its some sort of motor or selonoid kicking in until the car's PCM goes into closed loop mode? It does seem like it could be transmission related, because it does go away in neutral. I just had a new rebuilt tranny put in, and the noise is the same as before it was put in.
  • royboy411royboy411 Member Posts: 1
    hi there I have a 95 cirrus and when i slow down to 30 it jerks like that w/ yours.... have you figured anything out? Please let me know..Thanks
    Roy
  • abdurawabduraw Member Posts: 1
    had same problems. car jerks when downshifting around 30mph..had solenoid replaced, trans cooler replaced etc...nothing worked. we took it back and they reset all the modules, that corrected the hard downshift but now the transmission sqweals like a jet engine upon acceleration :mad: ...so go figure.

    Sebrings are pieces of $hit......
  • dh36dh36 Member Posts: 1
    So is resetting of the modules the fix for the downshifting problems on the Seibrings?

    I need to get mine fixed as well.
  • flashc5flashc5 Member Posts: 2
    FIXED!!!!!!

    An update on my issue. I have 75k miles on the clock.
    I had a leak on the hoses that go from the tranny to the transmission cooler.
    I replaced the hose (and filled it up with fluid) but then found that the transmission shifted really rough on the down shift around 25mph

    I dropped the transmission pan and replaced the filter, gasket and fluid.

    The problem is COMPLETELY gone.
    I would highly recommend changing your fluid BEFORE you get the whole transmission replaced like alot of people have.

    This problem is very strange and does not cause any DTC errors. I have taken it to several transmission shops and ALL of them said that I needed a transmission rebuild. Please try replacing the fluid before you spend big bucks.
  • davis13davis13 Member Posts: 1
    About 2 weeks ago I was driving home and had just left a bumpy dirt road. about a mile on the paved road the car started making this loud metal tapping sound. I slowed down to listen and suddenly the car lurched forward. It felt like someone had hit me from behind. Long story short here, it got pulled home. My husband and his friend checked it out the next day. They found some fluid had been leaking around the pan so they pulled it, replaced the gasket, but they also found an abundance of shavings in the pan. We took it to a local transmission shop and they checked it out and told us the planetary gear(s) were chipped or broken. They replaced them. When we drove the car home, after about 15 minutes on the hwy, it started making this horrible loud, grinding sound. I thought something was going to fall off. Back to the shop. The gears failed again! They replaced them and THEY took it out for a long drive and the gears failed THEM! They finally figured out that the case(?) possibly had a hairline fracture in it and when it heated up, I guess it was expanding and causing the gears to chip or break. They replaced the case and new gears again and finally it seems to be OK except after about 18 hours of having it, the OBD light came on and hasn't gone off. Is this due to something that was done at the shop? Sorry for the epic post. Maybe my details can help someone else! :sick:
  • deameondeameon Member Posts: 2
    Id like to say its all gonna be better but sad to say that might not be true. My 02 has been to the shop 9 times in the last year cause of tranny issues. And its cost over 24,000$ in repairs.

    First issue was a diff gear that went. Sounds like metal thug on the shifts, loud jet whin on accell or just idle and hard shifting.

    Had it fixed and such, then it went again, fixed it, then the spyder gears blew out. Anytime you see any metal shavings in the pump area, your gonna be looking at tranny failures soon.

    Now Chrysler in there amazing wisdom sorta messed up on how they put the trannys back in. They go back in ok, but there is alot of play in the parts. Any abuse, like just touching the gas a tiny bit hard, and your gonna get gears grinding, and such. And chrsyler wont warrenty a bloody thing after its been fixed once.
    Its even been to 3 different shops.

    Best bet, have the dearlership turn off the electronic control that learns how you drive.
    If one part goes, have everything fixed.. Cause if you dont.. Well, you can pay of 24,000 on a 12,000 car...
  • pdeberrypdeberry Member Posts: 1
    I need help. 1193 miles ago we purchased a 2007 Sebring. The check engine light came on and we took it to the dealership. After having the car a week and a half, they are telling us we must have driven through high water since the transmission has water in it. This did NOT happen. The only water the car was in was the car wash. They are telling us we have to pay $4600 for a new transmission. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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