Chrysler Sebring Transmission Problems



  • mstrootmmstrootm Member Posts: 1
    Stuck in park and the button does not seem to budge when I put my feet on the brake with the car running. Car has 37,000 miles on it. Does anybody have any ideas
  • kckimkckim Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2003 that we bought new, never had any problems until now. Did the same thing yours did and is now in the shop - said transmission damage clear back to the torque - 1500 - 2000 at last check. Now that I am researching, seems to be a problem.
  • littlered2004littlered2004 Member Posts: 2
    well, i took mine in, 2004 sebring and they had to take the transmission apart and rebulid it, electronic problem, had a warrenty when i bought it, called wynns, and guess what they didnt cover it, because it was electronic, so we had to put out 1200.00 to fix it. and was ok, had a ten day check to make sure, everything was ok. sorry, bad news, my oil can, red light, is back on now, so i have to take it back again, the light came on the first time, it happened, got fixed , no light, then after 10 day check, its on again, yea. today i had to put tires on them too, again, wow this car has been nothing but problems, money, money. when i did take it in, they ran a test on it, and said, the transmission pump, was bad.
  • partsmiapartsmia Member Posts: 5
    I had to replace the transmision at 50,000 miles and was told by the dealer to plan on a replacement every 50 K Seems they have problems with transmissions. My model 2002 Sebring Convertable....Should have bought the Solara
  • tr3alptr3alp Member Posts: 5
    One complaint about my 2003 Sebring LTD is that it shifts TOO damn smoothly. I have to watch to tach and really pay attention to feel it shift up or down. It has 77000 miles and I've had it nearly 2 years.

    I just had a leaky trany pan 'fixed' at STS. ($90) Ever since, I have a very loud and hard CLUNK when it shifts from 4th to 3rd. It happens in all cases: while passing, stopping, auto-stick downshift. I watched the tach when it shifted in case it was shifting at too high an RPM - it shifts down at 1000! Upshift is still quiet.

    The mechanic says there are no sensors, connectors or links etc near the pan that he could have bumped. We checked the fluid level and it was fine. He has no idea why this would happen and suggested, IIRC, Lowes Trany additive.

    Any Ideas?

    P.S. Probably not related, but.... my 88 LeBaron J55 4 cyl turbo had an odd trany quirk. UNLESS I overflilled it, the trany would disengage during a hard turn.
  • tr3alptr3alp Member Posts: 5
    My 2003 Sebring LTD has auto-stick. [Not nearly like a real stick.]
    When I move to the auto-stick mode, the gear display shows the gear number as I shift or it shifts down. In normal mode, the active box is always on [D]

    How can I tell it I want to see the gear shifts ALWAYS?
  • albrosm1albrosm1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 03 chrysler with about 115k on it and it's been making a loud humming or growling noise coming from the front,but only when i move, if i jack it up put it drive there is no noise, rotated tires still there, i replacedboth front wheel bearings and still no good. everything works fine and it seems to get louder as you accel. please help
  • albrosm1albrosm1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 sebring with 115k on it and it is making a loud humming noise or roaring, i replace both front bearings it only does it when moving if i jack the car up and put it in drive theres no noise. please help
  • dj_osudj_osu Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2002 sebring and it sounds like the same problem. I also notice when I hit a bump, as the car rises, the sound stops for a split second. If anyone else had this problem, please let us know. thanks
  • ragtop2ragtop2 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced both speed sensors on the trans. The speedometer works just fine but the trans won't shift out of first gear! Now what? Any suggestions of what to check?

    Also, tach and odometer only work sporatically, what's with that?
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    the tack o meter is a resister in side it that u nee dto upgrad edamaged from heat ok about 100 bucks for new whole cluster on ebay a guys redoes them yourshifinting is poraoably the soiniod body on traine change it with hi end part only and the right gasket k
  • msmarvelmsmarvel Member Posts: 2
    I agree with djdrummernick, though it's hard to read his posts sometimes. :)

    I had an issue similar with my 2001 Sebring - the car would all of a sudden shift into 1st or 2nd gear and I just ahd to wait it out. sometimes turning the car off and on would fix, sometimes not. then it started to get worse and happen more often. So after several sensor replacements, my mechanic siad the tranny was making them go bad. Rebuilt the tranny at cost, the car would still jump down a few gears when it rained moslty. Redid the trasnmission again. Still acting gooffy. He finally traced it to the solenoid pack. I think I mentioned it to him from reading these boards, but he must have ignored me or whatever.

    Since the solenoid has been repaired, the car runs great.
  • mdixon23mdixon23 Member Posts: 5
    Hey everyone, I have a 2001 sebring coupe lxi 3.0v6. I have never had any problems out of my transmission and I have 116k miles on my car. Last night on the way home I was going down the interstate and doing about 65mph and the car just acted like it shifted into neutral. Has anyone ever had this happen? I pulled over and shifted into park turned the car off and sat a minute and tried again. Shifted into Reverse and drive and even tried the autostick and nothing. It is almost like it isn't shifting into gear. It makes no noise just seems to be stuck in neutral. I had it towed today and my mechanic said it may be the TCU that controls the whole transmission. He said since the transmission was not shifting weird and I didn't hear any abnormal noise he didn't think it is mechanical. Has anyone ever had this happen and if so what caused it? Thanks a lot!
  • izzyizzoizzyizzo Member Posts: 2
    What a coincidence -- today my '01 LX coupe (118k miles) did exactly the same thing. My tech (who hasn't examined the car yet) said he bets it's a solenoid. I'll be very interested to hear what happens with yours, and will be sure to post my solution here.
  • mdixon23mdixon23 Member Posts: 5
    Please keep me informed I am curious what the problem is...does your LX have the 3.0 v6 in it or is it the 2.4 four cylinder? Most of the issues on here seem to be from the actual Chrysler engines and trans that are in the sedans and convertibles. My mechanic speaks highly of the Mitsubishi products, considering that is all the coupes are.
  • teedupteedup Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring with 45K miles on it. The transmission was replaced at 44K miles but it is still sluggish like this transmission is about to go out with less than 2500 miles on it. I have brought in this car 4 times for over 4 weeks with the same problem and each time I have to rent a car until they fix it. I havent had my own car for a full month yet. This problem started in 2005 when they supposedly fixed it. Well its back again and signs of it not being fixed would show up from time to time. I would bring it in and they would say it has no problem or its been fixed. Can anyone give me some direction? I live in MD and the Lemon Law is out of the question because its only good for 15 months. The dealership tells me they dont know what the problem is but I cant afford to continue bringing the car in for repairs while renting another and I cant afford to get stuck while going to work. Someone please give me some advice
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    tell them pp f u ok they dont know whatther doing obslbley take it to a better mopar dealer tell them to fix it make other sdealer pay them so dam dumb they tell u cant fix it they try new soiniod body with this new trainie ? or they too dumb to do that get mad atthem tell them change dam soiniod body with hi end part only :)
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    alsomake sure use atf 4 fluid only not say well big can dextron is ok stupi :mad: d asses reserch also
  • hrb2002hrb2002 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 96 sebring we were going down the road and the trans went to first gear and wont shift out the speed o quit working at the same time pluss on the dash were it tells you what gear your in all have squares around them this is my only car can some one help my? :mad:
  • hrb2002hrb2002 Member Posts: 2
    there should be a plug in side of trans it will take a hose to fill you get your gear lube and a small hose and sqeeze it in there
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    try the soiniod body new fluids in trainie and filter 1st
  • sebringtechsebringtech Member Posts: 1
    I just got my car to the only local transmission repair shop. I had been doubting its condition for a while now, mainly when I would be driving, then let off the gas, when the car downshifts (automatic) it would feel like the whole car was being dragged.

    A couple days ago at night I backed out of our driveway onto the street in reverse, moved the shifter to Drive, and it rev'ed like the car was in neutral. The next day my father came over and looked at it, although he has no mechanical knowledge the loan and car title are in his name.

    Today I took the car to one of the 2 local transmission shops. The mechanic started the car, shifted it through the gears, and said something about having to order a Transmission Position Sensor? on Monday. I don't know exactly the name of the part, but he said that what was happening, because he had a device hooked up to the diagnostic port, is the engine thought that it was in Neutral when the shifter was in drive. He said that the engine read all the other gears correctly. The part I wasn't too impressed with was he couldn't tell me why my whole car engine and all literally jolt/hop when the car is shifted into reverse. His response was "We will have to call the Chrysler dealer and get you an estimate for the sensor and go from there." I also tried to point out to him that when I drove it for about 3 minutes the night before I was putting the gas pedal all the way to the floor and the car was barely moving, it also didn't shift at all. Another note is I do have a cannon muffler on the car and it sounded absolutely horrible, like a gargle kind of sound instead of its normal low loud tone. I give him credit for being open on a Saturday morning, and he was the only person in at the shop, but I question his diagnosis.

    I have read multiple forums and still haven't come to a complete solution. I drained and refilled my ATF 4 months / 3k miles ago not using the Mitsubishi recommended Diamond ATF but another brand that Advance Auto had for Import ATF, and the fluid level was checked at transmission shop today and all appeared to be in order. I've kept up on its care as best as I can, changing oil and coolant when they needed it, and the ATF was changed to try and fix some weird shifting and rough downshifting problems which it never did. The car has 110k miles on it (was high miles I bought it), and other than the tranny and a slight engine ping it runs good.

    I left the car at the shop since I won't be trusting it to drive anywhere, but will be going back with my father on Monday to see if there's something else that could be the problem. We already have a quote for $3k to fix the AC, so if it has a costly transmission bill coming we'll be getting rid of it for a more family friendly 4 cylinder car. Does anyone have any input on what else might be the problem, or any questions to ask the transmission mechanic when I go on Monday? Sorry this was so long, I prefer to make sure all the needed information is included and tend to include too much.
  • 11255thave_11255thave_ Member Posts: 26
    how do i "backflush" my heater core ,I need to clean it out after i had put stop leak in it for a small leak, I ended up changing the radiator myself but I think in the process I may have clogged some of the heater core fins because I get little heat at all. I don't want to change the core if I don't have to. Where is the heater core located 'under the dash?
  • 11255thave_11255thave_ Member Posts: 26
    what should i use to backflush my heater core on my 98 sebring conv.,any special way to bypass the engine and just flush the core itself?
  • checklstchecklst Member Posts: 1
    My auto trans starting slipping at a stop light just a few miles ago. It started slipping as I took off, rpms went high but car bairley moved. I got it home just 2 miles and check the fluid and it was way over full,light pink, with lots of foam.

    Could this be water in the trans fluid from a trans cooler leak??
    If it is a water problem is only the 5qts in the pan effected or is the toque converter contaminated as well???

    I did change the fluid and filter, 8 month ago and used the proper +4 fluid so I know the fluid should be a dark red and I check the fluid every week for a month of 2 just to make sure their was no leaks ect........

    thanks in advance :(
  • silverstone7silverstone7 Member Posts: 8
    Spent a lot of time fixing the Sebring transmissions.. Some common things to look for are:

    1. If your speedo quits working, goes into limp in mode the output shaft sensor is out.. Easy replace under the drivers side fender front you have to remove the cover.. $25 for the sensor at Napa..

    2. If your tach quits working the transmission input shaft sensor is bad.. BTW for all you guys with the shift sluggish and slams into gear that is one of the major causes.. Input sensor is a lot harder to get to so if you aren't the really mechanically inclined then maybe the the mechanic to do it..

    3. Another common cause for the slam shifting is the shifter pack.. This thing has a bunch of solenoids and well if you have a bad one in the group is causes all kinds of shifting problems.

    4. Take the pan off get a filter and pan gasket, grey permatex sealent and replace your filter and fluid with AFT4.. The cold weather leaking goes away and if shifts so much smoother..

    Chrysler Dealerships hires a lot of young guys and well the little pac man tool doesn't replace good old fashion past history.. BTW if you want to reset the transmission history so it learns you vs the guy who owned the car before you just lift the battery connection for about 1 hr.. ECM will bleed off the capacitor keep alive voltage and well just like it rolled off the assy line.

    Hope this helps...

    Tim S..
  • silverstone7silverstone7 Member Posts: 8
    You may have the trans over filled.. BTW that is as bad as under filled.. Sound like it is asperating.. The proper proceedure to check these is idle, fully warmed up, in park and the fluid shouldn't be all the way to the full mark.. Hydro fluid will expand with temp.. If you refilled it cold chances are you have too much in it.. BTW it will ruin the trans pretty fast as it will create too much presssure for the seals (leaking) and the actual flow may stop or slow way down causing it to self destruct..

    Tim S..
  • kidd414kidd414 Member Posts: 1

    I have a 2001 Sebring, V6 with an auto stick transmission. Today, when my daughter went to leave school, the car trans was slipping real bad and was leaking fluid out of the front of the trans. Does anybody know what may be the cause/fix for this problem? Also, any ideas what it may cost at a trans shop to fix? And last, do you know any websites where I may be able to locate a used trans to swap out, if needed?

    Thanks in advance for your help,

  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    hey budddie sounds like tran i pan needs new gasket ok take it in usally 70 labor new fluids sliping u need snew soiniod body for tainie ok 150 doler part goes on it 80 bucks labor to 100 usally then u be rocking in rolling thx nick
  • SherJacSherJac Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring that has almost 95,000 miles on it. Today, it started doing the same thing your car did while i was doing about 60 mph. Can you please tell me what was wrong with your car?

    Thanks so much!
  • mdixon23mdixon23 Member Posts: 5
    Well my 2001 is a coupe and has the V6 it acted like it was in neutral and wouldn't go back into gear. From what I was told by the mechanic was that some sort of bearing went out in the transmission, and because it is a sealed transmission they can't just go in and fix that part. So I ended up having to replace the transmission.
  • SherJacSherJac Member Posts: 2
    Hi, Thanks for replying. How much did it cost to replace the transmission?
  • mdixon23mdixon23 Member Posts: 5
    Well I didn't take mine to the dealership but to a mechanic that has worked on the car before he told me for a new aka rebuilt one it would run somewhere along the lines of 4k but I went with a used one that he found with low miles on it and it ran about 1,000 bucks so not bad. He told me the coupes were really good cars and that the transmission is mechanical and mechanical things will break down at some point. Hope this helps you.
  • steve_coulombesteve_coulombe Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to make this code stay away once cleared?

    Does anyone know where this Solenoid switch is located so I can check to see if a plug is loose?

    This started after my battery died and my trany went into limp mode. (OK now). :confuse:
  • davidb2000davidb2000 Member Posts: 1
    Many notes here about the 'harsh downshift' problem. I had the problem also: 2004 Sebring, 70K miles, harsh downshift decelerating from ~28 mph. I had lost fluid just before from leaky hoses, pan gasket, and solonoid pack - probably 2 quarts pooled on my garage floor. All replaced, along with new filter and correct ATF4 fluid, but still had the downshift problem. 2 shops wanted to rebuild my unit for ~$3k. Then I visited a local tranny expert - he verified that no codes were present. However, he also confirmed that the transmission pressure readings were out of calibration, likely due to excessive loss of fluid which was reported earlier. Because the computer could not clear these erroneous values, the harsh downshift occurred as the computer over-compensated. The values were cleared manually via the reader/sender, after which the computer properly recalibrated, and the harsh downshift disappeared. This is likely the same action reported by atomz1, but with the current computer. The reset can only be done with the reader - not simply disconnecting the battery - but the solution was easy and only cost me a $20 donation to the doughnut fund. Another testament to honesty and expertise from an independent family-run shop! The bad news was the readings also indicate my transmission is in its end-stage - high pressure reading indicate significant wear on the 'clutch' plates- I'll be lucky to get 10K miles more from this tranny. Lucky I got 70K that I did! The Sebring is a good car - but the tranny is not durable, as verified by the repair expert: "Chrysler and Ford trannies keep us in business!"
    I appreciate the help from this forum to rule out all the other issues. This group is fortnuate to have folks such as Nick regularly respond with such helpful advise.
  • astracastorastracastor Member Posts: 1
    I understand that the 2005 versions of 40TE transmissions have only 2 clutch packs while 41TE has four. To me this is a major difference, as it is directly translates to lower torque capacity (from what I understand about transmissions). Now, the question is, both are categorised as A604 trannies; are those interchangeable? I mean I am trying to find out if a 2005 2.4L AT 40TE transmission would fit a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible 2.4L AT that originally came with 41TE. Thanks...
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    hey thx buddie i try to help i been throw it all compssor bearing winding up idal pully trainie vhb tape for back windows seems lol use atf fluids only in trainie not dextron keep rpms down my traini 98 thos miles still perfect change all fluids slniod body last yr filter on it for pp that have that gas gadge stick happend s to alot pp use gm tecktron that will stp it right away its great suffler on sending unit this take it off for u k all this info can be found on sebringconvatable ok all the inof u bever need on e these cars all there thx nick
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    use gm tecktron big one with full tank u never see gas meter go up in down nomomre bad gass builds sulfer on these cards sending units this gm stuff tecktron fluid just add to gas tank 10 bucks will fix this problem right away then ever 6 mo use bottle again matain clean helathy system shell gas worse on sullfer
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    loked aorund best stuff to use dupi coler makes rim paint get it for silver hi metalic rims on sum of our convertables scuff it up 1st use 400 grid then prime then use 2 coats silver metalic rim paint buy dupi coler then buy 2 cans cleaer rim paint add 2 coats to thet drys fast hard enamal great stuff looks like new :shades:
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    after 80 thos miles
    1 get new soliniod body for tainie 150 bucks 100 labor
    cuse hard sifts clunks
    2 use atf fluid only 3 or 4
    3 change filte ron trainie pan flush old out 70 bucks

    gota maintain it keep rpms down under 3000 down push on gas so ghard to wind up rpms take it easy on your convtable not race car bmw conv is what u want then :shades: :shades:
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    vhb foam tape losen top up in the up post 3 ft from lock down then pull seem up with vhb thick foam tape that never let go cheap way is girilla black tape :(
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    buy new crank shaft sensor goes in deep by tainie 20 bucks 50 labor
    car dont start at all but turns over its dirbuter and cap get new spark in wires also when u do wires plugs on sebring U MUST REPLACE HEAD VALVE COVER GASKETS
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
  • jaydee14jaydee14 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2007 chrysler sebring, i can't shift out of park. i used it the night before came out the next morning and was unable to shift out of park. does anyone have experience with this problem.
  • phoenix4480phoenix4480 Member Posts: 2
    2001 Chrysler Sebring LXI - 89,000 miles

    Was going down the highway, when my car basically put itself into neutral and I coasted to a stop. The car would then just rev the motor if you hit the gas, no matter what gear it was in.

    Took it to a repair shop and had the transmission replaced. The transmission worked beautifully, better then it had before.

    Two weeks(and $2,000.00) later I inadvertantly left my door cracked, which led to a dead battery. I had someone "jump" me, all cables were correctly placed on the batter.

    Now, the car shifts fine twice, then at about 35-45 mph it lurches forward, then shifts again, and is fine after that point. There is no clunk when I slow down.

    Took it back to the transmission place, and they hooked it up to computer and it produced no codes. They then told me to drive it around and in 35-40 stops/starts it will fix itself. I have done the 35-40 stops/starts and nothing has changed.

    Any ideas as to what happened? Or what I can do to fix this?
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    hey that sucks i betthat [non-permissible content removed] dint change the soiniod body on it 160 doler part goes on it controls way it shifts opens litte cluthes up to shift smooth have him get u new one dint even need trainy i bet did he use atf 4 ? in god dam trainy or gm dextron if gm take it back now tell [non-permissible content removed] put atf 3 4 in ok taine only more slipery then gm [non-permissible content removed] ok must have atf 3 or 4 fluid in with new soiniod body goes on top trainie easy to install ok call :shades:
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