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Comments
I figured the post was a rhetorical question rather than an actual offer for sale myself.
I'm having a similar problem with a 2000 SE wagon. Changing the range sensor (tells the ignition that you're in park) didn't solve it. The dealer and my usual mechanic are stumped (the mechanic is looking into that relay switch you mention.) Were you able to find a solution?
Thanks,
Dean
Do you realize you are in a "focused" (pun) discussion? We are just looking for help and advice about electrical problems with the Ford Focus.
You should understand that you sound like the whiner here.
Where do I find a user-friendly diagram of where my grounds are?
My lights dim on their own when I'm driving in the dark, my battery light has been going on and off for two years now, it stalls and idles real low when I'm at a stop (always enjoyable during rush hour), I've had 3 alternators, and 3 batteries put in in the 3.5 years that I've had it, it just overheated this past weekend, my dashboard has been clicking away for the past month or so and today, the ABS light flicked on and off. I'm taking it to a Ford dealer on Monday because Firestone has replaced all the electrical on it and can't figure out what's going on. I am tempted to trade it in this weekend instead of pouring more money into it. Would this be a wise move?
I bought it to save gas money, but I guess the Ranger that I had before would have actually been a better money-saving option in the long run. The Taurus I had before the Ranger was a pile, too. I'm pretty sure I'm done with Ford cars after I unload this gem...
Thanks
Steve
Cliff MacCartney
clifford20@comcast.net
Also check the regular fuse box in the car.
Thanks for the reply Mr Shiftright
it's either that or a few burned fuses or (gulp) damaged relay/box or wiring harness. I think it's fuses though given how it's acting and what he did.
Thanks
Steve
Steve
Have your battery cables load tested, this means to disconnect cables from battery, place load tester between batt post and pos cable and load up to rated cap of the alt. should not have more than 1/2 volt drop in pos side or neg side, I have found more problems on the neg side than the pos side. also check ALL body grounds. You are getting a feed back causing your goofy problems,a # of these items go through a thing called a GEM module, check the ground to this module.
Hope this helps you out,
Cliff
Suggestions ?
I will keep you posted
Steve
I have a 2002 SVT (it just hit 77k) About 10,000 miles ago, i had some crazy hesitation at 2800-3200 rpm. the rpm would not surge or drop the car just would pull against me, and be get a little jerky. well i changed everything i could afford in way of the fuel and electrical system (plugs and wires, altenator, battery, fuel filter) no help...well after visiting some forums, i figured out that it was an issue with the MAF and that all i had to do was have the computer updated at the dealer. i did and tada!!!! problem gone.... well about 1000 miles ago, this problem seems to be returning...but the hesitation is not nearly as violent as before and comes in more between 2800 and 3000...so really i don't know if it's the same issue or not, it is not nearly as consistent as before either,,,it won't always do it. I really can't afford to pay $100 every 8-10k miles if it is the computer again. i love the car and hate to give up on it.
I just want to know if anyone has any suggestions as to what this may be, or if they have had similar problems...if it is the computer again, should the dealer flash it for free since it's been such a short time? (if it matters, i have random dash lights on too, they've been on since i purchased the car at 48k, my traction control and brake light) :confuse:
Steve
I replaced all of the bulbs for the running lights and license plate lights. Still did not work. All the fuses were fine.
Not sure what to do next? Would appreciate any suggestions. Keep it relatively simple... I do not have a lot of auto electrical experience...
Thanks in advance
1. get a 12 volt tist light. Hook the ground clip to a good clean metal ground, touch the other end to BOTH sides of the fuses w/the park lights on. If only 1 side of fuse lights the test light you have a bad fuse.If all fuses ck ok go to next step.
2. Remove rear bulbs.ground clamp end of test light again to a GOOD body ground. now touch other end to bulb sockets contacts (w/park lights on) and one contact should light test light, if no light follow wiring to plug in connector, poss-under L.R. corner of car. Unplug and ck for a hot wire there w/test light.
3. If you have power at light sockets,ground the test light to the other contact in socket,may need to use a paper clip to get into bulb socket, if your fuses are good,WITH TEST LIGHT, my money is on a bad ground.
4. Do this and send a note to let me know what you found
Cliff
Any ideas? :confuse:
Thanks.
FORD
Fix Or Repair Daily
Steve
You mean spray the outside of it (like where you toggle it) and roll it back and forth to work it in? Or take the panel off and spray something in there?
visually the battery connections looked good(no corrosion). Cleaned the connection to the auxillary ground wires to the negative post, loosing them and cleaning the ring terminal with a wire brush. I then looked for the chassis grounds. there were two wires with ring terminals (grounds) attached to the inner fender close to the battery but under the air cleaner box. I cleaned these using the same method. The headlight fuse has not blown since, it has been a week.
This was the third time in about seven months I've had an auto-electric issue with this car. First time, the car wouldn't start and it appeared my battery was just bad. Atlernator tested fine, but this seemed odd.
About a month later, the car died again while I was driving. Couldn't find a problem, but the dealer said there was a blown fuse that caused the anti-theft function to lock-up. They also said there was a wire loose, but the evidence showed THEY had fouled that up. Last time I'm going to them.
Anyway, three instances since last summer. Very odd. I recently talked to a buddy who had similar problems. He said it turned out his idiot light had a short in it, and was causing his issues. He had the light and the whole circuit replaced and has had no more problems. When I think back, NO IDIOT LIGHTS HAVE COME ON!!!! This could be the problem with this car, and I'm going to have that checked out.
Has anyone else here heard of this? Sounds plausible.
To find a short that would drain a battery in 2 hrs, do the following, disconnect the batt ground from the batt, if you have access to an amp meter (not volt meter) connect it in series between the neg batt post and the neg cable, unplug under hood light if you have 1 . every thing turned off and doors closed, your amp meter should not read over 0.5 or 1/2 amp. If it going to run the battery down in 2 hrs it will arc like a welding cable,if it does arc,start taking out fuses 1 at a time and test cable for arc, if strong arc still remains after all fuses removed, then remove the pos red wire from the alt and test for arc at neg post again, You may also have a fuse box under the hood with high amp fuses in it. If you do start there. let me know what you find. Cliff