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Here is a little help to make sure you really need to re adjust your speedo, it explains how to figure out tire sizes and compare them to each other.
drb2002 "MY2001+ GMC Yukon Denali/Yukon XL Denali" Apr 30, 2001 3:19pm
A guy in the parking lot? How big was this machine. My dealers tech 2 is connected to a pretty large computer.
Yea the HPIII wouldnt be good for your silverado. Only way it would work is if you set all the settings on the XL back to stock. Then you could use it on the rado but the XL would have any of the programs anymore.
Ryan
Just picked up my GMC Sierra C3 a couple weeks ago. Really love the truck, but I have two issues that neither my dealer, or any C3 owners I've found (at www.pickuptruck.com forums) have seen. The C3 is basically a Denali pickup, so perhaps you've seen these issues and can let me know what the fix was.
The first is the steering wheel mounted stereo controls. The mute button doesn't work. Press it, and the radio/cd/cassette is muted, but only for a couple seconds, then it comes back.
The second has to do with the lumbar support. Mine seems to pump itself up all the time. For me, the most comfortable seating position is with the lumbar and side bolsters completely deflated. But every time I get in the truck, I have to deflate them again.
Any ideas??
they wanted $600 for a 6 disc installed in my truck.
265-70-17
on any of their vehicles? (i am not quite sure)
If the answer is yes then they can reprogram it. If they say no tell them to call technical assistance. They will help them out
Ryan
see
http://www.obd-2.com/
The set up requires that you carefully mark your tire then roll one turn and measure the distance then divide by 3.1416 to obtain the true diameter which is input into the program in 1/4" selections. A 1 inch diff.in circumferance of a tire with aprox. 8foot cir. would make a differance of 55 feet in one mile.
Helm advises my four volumes is in shipping dept. now. My guess is 6 to 10 days deliver time.
Irv. ( Filling in for Don. 4341 )
-- Don
In northern VA just about everyone is selling for about invoice. I telephone interviewed 12 dealers: 5 were unresponsive or thought unreliable for one reason or another, and the other 7, with some work, were from invoice to invoice + 200. Yukon XLs seem to run a bit higher, but I did investigated them as thoroughly.
The out the door price includes more than invoice, and some dealers played games with what invoice means. The invoice separately states the vehicle total (model+trim+acc, which of course you can calculate on your own), the cooperative advertisement fee, and the delivery freight charge. Line 310 of the invoice includes freight and coop advertising. Coop advertising is 1% of MSRP less freight so its about $400. Freight is $765 here. One dealer quoted a price of "invoice less $1000" plus freight, taxes, documentation, but used the 310 line for "invoice," thereby charging twice for freight. That and a very high doc fee, in addition to purposeful deception, erased any advantage.
In the numbers above I used the line 310 definition of invoice. In addition to that, doc fees are added (range 89 to 290, reasonable amount seems to be 150) and tag charges (about $49, which you can do on your own). Some try to stick you with "business license tax" - about $60.
Anyway, it's all negotiable, and it's out the door price (line 310 amount + docs + anything else) that matters. Around here I found that an out the out the door price of invoice (line 310) + $200 for EVERYTHING excluding sales tax, is clearly attainable.
In addition, as others here have mention, GM gives a $1000 rebate for former owners. Also $400 grad discount -- maybe some others.
By the way, the line 310 amount of the invoice is not the dealer cost, and the 3% holdback is not all the dealer earns on a car. Read the notes on the invoice. So, don't get caught up in the empathy play some dealers use - I'm only earning $200 on this car, salesman needs to get a commission, etc.
Interestingly, I looked into the BBB record of the dealers and found good correlation between BBB rating the dealer's level of dealing straight.
Addison
Does anyone have info on this -- aftermarket vendor, pricing, is the vehicle pre-drilled, how many plates are there?
When I spoke to the dealer, it seemed extremely expensive - $500-700 - relative to the option price.
Any help appreciated,
Vix
I read somewhere that the middle seat head rests fold back when the middle seat is folded up for more cargo space. But the version I have does not seem to let the head rests fold back, and therefore requires one to move the front seats forward. Are the head rests supposed to fold back?
thanks,
Vix
Vix
Others sell general repair guides but are not as detailed as the true factory set. Of course the set covers the Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL and the Denali. In my lowly opinion and my brothers ( Don ) no other source will give you so much info.
" Anyho " enjoy your new truck and SMILE. :c)
Irv.
I also prefer the lumbar and bolsters fully "deflated". The only solution I can think of is to disconnect the switch or possibly have the dealer flip the position of the switch 180 degrees (maybe it can be done without the dealer, although I haven't tried yet).
Your mute switch simply seems to not be functioning properly as my 2001 Denali XL radio steering wheel controls work exactly as they should.
Just curious which dealers are good in your opinion in N.VA. I'm looking at getting one of these vehicles soon. Still deciding between the the Yukon XL or the Suburban.
Dave
Vix
I ordered my 2001 Z71 Burb (White) on March 1st. Dealer contacted me on April 12th to advise it had been built (Silao, Mexico) and shipped to Starcraft Vans Plant in Elkhart, Indiana for final Z71 cosmetic work. It was then railed to California, with eta of April 24th. It arrived one day early, the 23rd. It sat in the rail yard in San Bernardino for several days and was finally trucked to dealer on April 30th. I picked it up on May 1st. Still breaking it in, about 300 miles on it. She runs like a charm and no problems yet....
Thanks
I may make a few panic stops with and without the proper programming and report the results.
They do need a code from tech assistance. They have to give them the vin to get the code.
Looks like I have about 9 more days to wait. Btw, I ordered mine on Feb. 27th.
1. We had accumulated 3 dings (actually 2 dings and 1 crease) up high on the drivers side rear 1/4 panel. No other marks on the truck made the three tightly bunched marks a mystery. I live in NY and we have a friend who owns a DentX. They do paintless dent and ding removal. He came over and within 15 minutes he got all the damage removed! He went in through the wheel well. For door dings he takes off the panel and works it that way from the inside. I watched and he used tools like a locksmith. Long rods, etc. The truck is perfect. No way you can tell and I am PICKY! Anyway, the going rate is anywhere from $75 to $150 per panel. He really took 15 minutes. Unreal!
2. I thought my wife kept inflating the lumbar supports, but she swears she isn't. She drives the Sub 75% so I always thought she was making herself comfortable. When I asked she looked at my with that 'what lumbar support' look that only your wife can give you. How is it possible that these things inflate themselves.
Bill