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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    I think 'Subie' is a nickname for a Subaru. I always refered to our Suburbans as 'burbs, until someone called it a 'burban. Naturally, we kind of changed it to 'bourbon' ;-)
  • vendingvending Posts: 14
    Can anyone testify to what they are getting in gas mileage under normal driving circumstances NOT HAULING, in town and out of town.

    Thank you so much. Also, if you know where to find any research info about this, it would be good.
  • vendingvending Posts: 14
    I want to put on bigger tires, either:
    265/75/r16 or 285/75/r16 on a 3/4 ton i plan on buying very soon (now if i can get some info).

    Does anyone know if the computer can be calibrated to these tire sizes. The chevy dealer says no but the gmc dealer say, i don't know.

    also, if i put on oversized tires, how will it effect the abs etc...

    I don't know any other way to get the differential raised as i often hit bolders in the field. A lift kit, which i'll be putting on, won't do the trick.
  • vendingvending Posts: 14
    PS: I'm talking about a Yukon XL 3/4 Ton, in case there's any difference between that and chevy.
  • 330iguy330iguy Posts: 4
    You're probably right. I had a "subie" outback which I called "outback". Ah well, we all know what we're talking about. Just don't call my 330i a "beamer". hehe.
  • 330iguy330iguy Posts: 4
    Thanks for the pointers. Not too detailed other than aftermarket stuff. I was more interested to see if anyone knew if GM was going to do their own nav unit as an option. There are a lot more models out there that have this option. Thanks again and I'll keep my eye out for more "stuff" on this topic as time allows.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Feel free to start a discussion (maybe over in Accessories?). Maybe you'll get some response (seems quiet over here about NAVs). See help for details on making a new message board.

    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    The dealer should be able to flash' the computer which will re-calibrate the speedo and the ABS - for about $30. At least that's what my local Chevy dealer told me (it's Gallucci in Medina, Ohio - excellent service department). The service manager specifically told me that 285/16-75's would be 'no problem', but that's on our 1500. I don't know if they'd work on a 3/4 ton, because the I think the wheel back space (offset) is different between the 1500 and 2500. I don't know if they'd rub on a 2500. Can anyone confirm this?
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Have 3/4 ton 2001 yukon XL on which we changed from the stock 245 Firestones to 265 Michelins to achieve a 3.96 drive ratio. Always in the past it was a simple matter of having a dealer re program for the change but that is not currently the case. Dealers must now call technical service for access to a code in order to make any changes to the computer, and they are being told that a code for re programing for tire size changes does not exist. We have made numerous requests without success and are becoming very upset with the don't care attitude displayed by GM's etch. service. Currently I am awaiting a response from an e-mail request sent directly to GM pleading for a resolution to a very annoying situation;i.e. a $44,000 vehicle with speedo and odometer that don't read correctly. Considering how little effort it would take on the part of GM to retify the situation, it seems that they are simply thumbing their noses at the consummer who wishes to make even the slightest change to their "perfect" truck.
    Anyone who is having the same problems; PLEASE voice their feelings to GM and maybe with enough negative feedback they will fix our trucks.
  • vendingvending Posts: 14
    re: "Anyone who is having the same problems; PLEASE voice their feelings to GM and maybe with enough negative feedback they will fix our trucks."

    Where can we go to voice our opinion?
  • vendingvending Posts: 14
    I've gotten plenty of response to 6.0 gas mileage but can anyone tell me what they're getting w/ the 8.1 in town and/or out of town NOT hauling anything, please???

    Ready to order today. Debating on this issue. 6.0 will probably suffice, but I'd like the 8.1.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I am not sure about the dealerships access to this tool but anyway.. At work the final inspection/repair people use a unit called "Tech 2". I changed the tire size on my 2001 Yukon XL and had a friend at the plant use the thing on my unit and he did not need anything like a access code to get into the brain to make the change. In fact the "tech 2" actually displayed a number of different tire sizes available for the Yukon XL. This unit is used to diagnose problems with drive train and other electronic stuff, and I would think the dealership would have this tool. Only took about 5 minutes in the parking lot at work to do. I also know that snap on made a tool that would do the same thing, a local tire shop used it all the time to re-calibrate for tire size changes. Try talking directly to a technician about what you want, most of the time for a $20 bill you can get what you need done on a lunch break. The computer tool is hand held and about the size of Disney VHS tape case, so it is really portable. Moss6, do you live near Arlington? If so try going up to the plant at lunch time, ask if anyone works in "final" if you find the right guy he can do it for you too. Good Luck
  • wshermanwsherman Posts: 1
    I have 2001 3/4t 4x4 currently with 12,500 miles.I get about 10mpg around town and 12-13mpg on the road. I have a heavy foot and drive 80-85mph on the road. I tow a 7,000 lb boat and at 70-75mph I get about 7.5mpg. It is a great engine, but does burn some fuel.....but, everything is a compromise.
  • eversonseversons Posts: 38
    I have about 4,000 miles on my YXL 8.1 with 4.1 axle. I drive in the suburbs (lots of 40 mph roads with some stoplights, freeways too, not much city' driving).

    I am getting between 12 and 13 mpg. The 8.1 is so much fun to drive that I rarely accelerate slowly. So it is quite possible that a person could improve on these numbers.
  • alevy1alevy1 Posts: 4
    I also have the 8.1 / 4.10 combination on a 2001 YXL...Truck has 2,208 miles to date on the odometer. I've also kept track of the operating hours from the hourmeter to estimate average miles per hour for each fillup

    Here is my mileage findings...

    HOURS -- MILES -- M.P.G. -- M.P.H.

    3.2 -- 4 -- 0.10 -- 1.3
    11.8 -- 250 -- 9.70 -- 28.6
    15.7 -- 354 -- 13.26 -- 26.7
    20.0 -- 552 -- 15.07 -- 46.0
    27.4 -- 819 -- 11.83 -- 36.1
    31.6 -- 919 -- 9.59 -- 23.8
    38.1 -- 1061 -- 10.09 -- 21.8
    42.6 -- 1313 -- 13.57 -- 56.0
    46.1 -- 1462 -- 12.70 -- 42.6
    50.9 -- 1724 -- 12.71 -- 54.6
    58.9 -- 1934 -- 10.45 -- 26.3
    67.2 -- 2208 -- 11.60 -- 33.0

    10.89 33.06 <---average

    sorry that the table isn't straight... I tried.. so you'll have to look bewteen the dashes.

    Also.. someone posted a message asking if they could tow a 9000# boat with the stock platform hitch. The correct answer is no.

    Boats use surge brakes, and that eliminates being able to use a weight distributing hitch.

    The stock hitch can tow 5,000 lbs, with a 500 lb. tongue weight.

    To tow heavier, you need to upgrade.

    Putnam makes a hitch that works up to 10000 lbs/1000 tongue weight.

    check out

    Reese makes a Titan hitch, but they've had problems with it not fitting.. and right now it's a redesign.
  • buster27buster27 Posts: 28
    I have a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban with 8.1 and 3.73 axle ratio. Intermittently, when coming to a stop, I can feel a thump in the drivetrain when coming to a complete stop. Will not do it, when the transmission is in neutral. Doesn't do it all the time. Dealer checked u-joint bearings for proper lubrication, but it still does it. He can't figure out where it could be coming from. Anyone have this problem?
    The 8.1 is a strong motor and I love it, but when starting cold, I can hear what sounds like lifter or valve noise. Takes a minute or two to go away. My 454 in my '96 never did anything like these two problems.
    If anyone has had similar experience with their 8.1 3/4 ton Sub/YXL's please let me know.
    to vending--my mileage has been averaging between 12.5 to 14 mpg.
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    I have a 2001 1500 YXL with the 5.3 engine and 4.10 rear with less than 5000 miles on it which has also the well known driveline clunk. This supposedly has been around for awhile, with some dealers fixing it, and others not - to the point that GM has released a TSB saying it's normal (don't believe it). There are different root causes for it, but based on your description, it sounds like the issue I'm having - which I am going to try to have them rectify. The thunk you hear is the excess clearances in the front driveshaft slipyoke splines. This usually is masked with sufficient lubrication, but if it runs dry, then it clunks on reverse, or acceleration after brisk braking. If you go to the following site and do a search on "driveline clunk", you will see the multiple posts regarding this. The guys that post there are both GM P/U and SUV owners. The site is: The fix is to remove the driveshaft, clean the splines, and regrease using a special spline grease (p/n: 12345879). By the way, if I get no help from the dealer, I'll probably end up doing it myself. Let me know how it works out for you.
  • I have just purchased a new Yukon XL. I live in Michigan where salt is used in the winter. If I am reading the manual correctly, I think GM is saying that rustproofing is not necessary. The dealer says I should get rustproofing. I'm willing to do it if I should, but I don't want to throw away money if it is absolutely not necessary. So what's the real story here?
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Not sure about the tool they used to reprogram your odometer but I did go to a dealership who said they could reprogram (recommended by the rocket scientists as GM customer service)and they did use a tool as you discribe but it did not actually change the calibration. When doing actual odometer checks using highway mileage checks it was easy to see the the reprogramming had not taken, even though the change was shown in the transmission parimeters as shown on the computer readout. Trust me ,without the codes from GM , a reprogramming of the omometer/speedometer cannot take place.
    Again I implore those interested to make their concerns heard by GM.
  • Glad you're enjoying your Yukon. Yes, I know exactly what you're talking about when you point out that you only mentioned the dealer's name once. I am the terrible person who mentioned a wonderful buying source twice and was accused of being an secret advertiser. You can mention the dealer 200 times as far as I'm concerned. Speaking of which. . . 200 UNDER invoice. I'm impressed. I thought I had a great deal at 200 over invoice. In any case, enjoy. . .
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I had mine done. I also live in MI. It was done by the dealer using Vesco Oil Corp. I did the full treatment, rust proofing, interior protection, and sound deadner. Cost me $450 on the Yukon XL. The corrosion barrier, as they call it, protects against surface rust for 5 years, and rust through for the life of the vehicle. Interior is like scotch guard, and sound deadner is just quiets the road noise. I think it was worth it for me because I am planning on keeping the truck for a long time, 10 years or better. If you don't plan on keeping it that long you may want to hold off. Factory warranty covers rust for 3 yrs/36 K Miles. You can always do it later. A lot of the rust proofing places put holes into the body to get at the insides. The dealer did not put any holes in the truck at all. Just something to ask if you are comparing prices, and what you get for the money. The dealer applied stuff can also be inspected at the dealer during regular maintainance, like an oil change. Just one less trip to the rust proofers.

    One other thing highly recommended by both the dealer and myself is a hood/bug guard. I got one painted to match the body, indigo blue. The painted one runs about $85, and a regular clear/smoke is usually around $45. It really doesn't do a whole bunch for bugs, but protects the hood from chips and dings. A friend decided it was BS and now after his 2nd winter he wishes he would have done it, the front of his hood is chipped and starting to rust. On his white truck it really stick out too.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Your dealership lied to you then because they can only reprogram your truck for tire sizes only offered by gm (265's are the highest.

    I found this out because i got 285's on my 1500 Z71. Took it in they spent 25 min on the phone with tech assistance. I even talked to them. They said it cant be done. Bought a hypertech and reprogrammed myself
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    I have been told by Performance products (1-800-588-7472) that both the Bushwacker OE and Xenon flares will work on the 2001 XL. Has anyone had experience with these flares?
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    If you have the 2000/2001 6.0L engine, you can use a Hypertech programmer to correct the speedo. The Hypertech is not yet available for the 8.1L. $300.

    If you have the 2001 8.1L (or any other engine), you can use a Jet SCU2000 to correct the speedo. $130.

    I have the SCU2000 on a 8.1L and it works OK.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Actually the HPIII was just introduced a day or two ago. You can now get it for the 8.1
  • Does anyone know if you can order the billet grill used on the Denali from GM? I like the looks of it better than many of the after-market grills I have seen. Thanks
  • fabfixinfabfixin Posts: 2
    Has anyone heard of a shortage of Yukons with 8.1 engines? We plan to buy one in the next couple of weeks and a dealer told me I may need to wait until next year to order one. Can probably find one on a lot but may not have options we wants. Just wondering what others have heard. Thanks
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    With or without cutting of the flares, or cutting / removal of any body side moulding?
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    I was told, not cutting, no removal of running boards or side molding. It sounds like your experience is not the same as what I was told. Thanks for your response
  • larry91larry91 Posts: 189
    I have been looking for a post comparing the gas mileage on the 8.1 as the 6.0. My dealer thinks they are pretty close. If I missed a post on this issue could someone please direct me to the post or give me the 6.0 gas mileage, assuming normal driving conditions.
    Thanks much
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Still at the Top of Its Game

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  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Does anyone know where the GM SUV VIN decode site is? I have a new Suburban on the way from Mexico and was given the VIN by the dealer yesterday. It is 3GNGK26U91G25xxxx. I want to verfiy the options. Thanks
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    Has anyone had any experience with a wind deflector mounted on the rear of the vehicle to keep dust from building up on the back window?

    I have a 2001 YXL and would appreciate your comments. Also, if you know of a good company, please let me know.

    p.s. most apply using 3-M double sided tape, does this hold up?
  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    Since my brother Don is up on blocks I thought I would use his Service Manual to decode your VIN.

    Apparently the VIN`s are not the same for the year 2000 and the year 2001 Manuals. For what its worth here is the decode as far as I can go with the year 2000 Service Manual.

    3 = Country of Origin = Mexico*****************
    G = Manufacturer = General Motors************
    N = Make ??????????? B = Chevrolet D = GMC******
    G = GVWR/Brake System = 8001-9000/Hydraulic*******
    K = Truck Line/Chassis Type = Conventional Cab/4x4
    2 = Series = 3/4 Ton***************
    6 = Body Type ????? 4=Regular Cab 9=Extended***
    U = Engine Type = 6.0 Liter Gas ( LQ4 )*****
    9 = Check Digit***************
    5 = Model Year ???? = Y=2000***************

    Sorry that I can`t give you full info.

  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    Stopped to eat and missed giving you the last 3 bits of info from the year 2000 Service MANUAL:

    G = Plant Location = Silano Mexico********
    25 = The last or 12th thru 25th Digit = Plant
    Sequence Number.
    Thats all fokes.

  • snug38snug38 Posts: 6
    I had been using the following link for service bulletins, service manuals and recall notices from GM. htpp://si2kgmd:[email protected]/si2000/home.html
    Now when I try to go to this site it asks for user name and password. Does anyone know how to register for this site?
  • I ordered a Suburban 2500 w/8.1 almost 14 weeks ago. It finally came in but with only half the options I ordered. The dealer said GM screwed up. Missing is the towing package, block heater, & skid plates. Does anyone know if these options can be added after the fact and still be per factory? The dealer is telling me that they can except for the towing package oil cooler which will be an after-market product.

    Any comments on this would be appreciated.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    The site has had a User ID and password added. You must buy the manuals from Helms (and you wondered when it would happen, since there is no free lunch).

    Thanks for the decode Irv (Don's brother). The vehicle is a 2001 LT 2500 4x4 suburban, with 6.0 liter engine. It has autoride, 3.73 rear locker and towing package, rear captains seats, all the goodies except sunroof (to get the rear a/c controls).
  • larrys7larrys7 Posts: 35
    Lund makes a rear deflector. Make sure where it is attached it is CLEAN & WARM. Lifetime warranty if you have a problem. Keep your receipt & send in warranty card. We have installed many - only a couple come back. Just make sure when you stick on do NOT try to relocate it. One time deal. Also hold it up since they come in smoke - Currently painting one for a customer now. Will look so much better painted. I have one in my shop for my 01 Denali XL - will decide if I want it on next week.

    Had a customer go from 245's to 285's on a 2500HD two weeks ago. Service Manager kinda give him a run around about changing the computer. I called & set up an appointment & everyone is happy - DONE. No big deal. If you would like more info email & I could find out more for you...
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    My new Suburban just turned a little over 3000 miles and the "Check Engine Oil" light came on. I had just loaded my boat to tow back home from fishing trip, a total of 230 miles round trip. The level was below the "Add Oil" indicator and I put a quart in. I have never added a quart of oil between changes in my last three Chevy's, 91 Silverado, 95 yukon and 97 Tahoe. I tow a 8000 LB boat and trailer. I have made this trip 4 times since I got the new Suburban. I have been getting 8.4/5 miles per gallon, towing, which includes going through Gainesville, Fl and two small towns, coming and going. Mixed city/hiway non towing driving is running about 12.5 MPG and hiway about 15. How does this compare???
    I have thought about upgrading to 265's from the 245 tires that came with the truck. Right now, I am towing in over drive and it will stay there even going over an overpass, if I nurse it a little. Will I lose this going to 265's?? I am runing at 2000/2100 RPM at 60 MPG towing in O-Drive. Passing can get up in the 4000/4500 range out of over drive. The over drive does not kick in till 55 mph in the tow haul position. If you change tires, did you stick with the 10 ply or go down to 8 ply or lower?? Much difference in the ride quality with the Michlens?? Except for the oil usage, I am happy with the new truck so far. I was hoping for better gas mileage. It has been as low as 6 or 7 MPG in just short local trips. I would like to go to larger tires to reduce the ratio, if my OD will still function close to the present level. Any feed back appreciated. Skipjack
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    I have a '99 Chevy Subn 1500 4wd.. had the same thing at 2K miles .. mainly ' sitting' at a traffic light and starting forward.. 'thump' from rear end.. brought it in to Chevy.. they knew about it.. said there was a Tech Svc Bulletin on it.. and that the cure was to change the rear end( rear differential) fluid to another type .... I now have 40K miles.. never heard it again... must have been the fix ..

      I did check on the NHTSA site at and they don't list that particulat TSB.. you might want to 'search their site with your make model year for any recalls/ TSB's

  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    Does anyone have any experience with back-up sensor's. I would like to put one on my new XL. Thanks
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    check out discussion and installation instructions on

    Some have installed the poron backup senors on the YXL
  • burbx7burbx7 Posts: 1
    plan on purcshing a 2001 yukon XL 1/2 ton 2 W D,can anyone give me some feed back as to towing stability of the new coil springs vs the old leaf spring set up. will be towing a two axle trailer and a car.
  • rauch56rauch56 Posts: 4
    I have a Yukon with liftgate and I installed a Lund Windjammer rear deflector. It does help, but not as good as some of the straight metal types that used to come stock from the factory years ago. It attaches with tape and hold very well. Looks cool too!
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    Anyone out there take delivery on a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 yet? Ordered mine back on March 1st, dealer says all they received is an order acknowledgment from the plant in Mexico.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Even thought I did not order a Z71, I ordered all but. I ordered an all option '01 2500 LT 4WD, autoride Suburban on 3/6/01. Received from the dealer the order letters (6 letters DDVRQx) on 3/12. Tracking file was created and opened with customer service on 3/12 (1-800-222-1020, option 3) and given a Target Production Week of 3/26/01. On 3/19, I checked and they stated was still on target to be built during 3/26. Checked 3/30 and they stated that the unit was built on 3/28. Expected to be at dealer on 4/15. Hope this helps
  • turk16turk16 Posts: 1
    I'm interested in purchasing either one of these bug deflectors, likely over the internet. I prefer the one which is the "lower profile" but I really can't determine that from pictures I've seen. Can anyone who has seen both of these bug deflectors offer guidance? Which is "sleeker"? I really don't want one which sticks up in the air too much or protrudes from the side. Also, can anyone who lives in the snowbelt offer advice regarding removing snow from behind the deflector in the winter?
  • I have the Lund Interceptor and it sits off the hood just enough to get you hand behind to clean the hood. I really like it. The interceptor also does not have any plastic bumpers or other devices that have to attach to the top of the hood. I don't have any experience with the Bug Deflector II. Basically if you want the deflector to hug the hood closely don't buy the Lund and don't exspect to be able to clean behind it without removing it.
  • My 2000 Yukon LX has recently started to make a thump noise when I pull out of a steep driveway, or drive over a drainage ditch, or speed bump etc. The noise seems to be coming from the rear coil springs? Has anyone come across a similar noise?
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