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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • snug38snug38 Posts: 6
    My invoice on 2001 Suburban 2500 LT shows:
    MSRP(inc. destination)- 40,750
    Inv amt - 35,568
    GMS - 34,369
    Supplr - 35,744
    Supplier price = GMS + 4%
    Supplier price $176 over invoice.
  • vendingvending Posts: 14
    do i qualify. i own a 2000 Yukon XL 1500 and i plan on buying a 2001 suburban or yukon 2500.
  • cwindgocwindgo Posts: 3
    My first time writing.
    Main question: Any advice on the best deals in Southern California for Yukon XL or Suburban? I live on the border of Orange County and L.A. County and don't mind travelling for a deal. I had intended to order a new Yukon XL or Sub to have it in time for this summer. However, with $1,000 Customer Loyalty and a local $1,000 auto show discount expiring 4/2/01, I'm inclined to find a deal now and save the $2,000. I figure it would make up for any extras or subtractions found on a vehicle currently in stock....As long as I can start at/close to Invoice Price. Any Dealer names, Phone numbers or email addresses would be greatly appreciated.
  • arc44arc44 Posts: 7
    Not sure how good the deals are in Orange/LA County, but in the SF/San Jose/Sacramento areas they are very good...prices $6000-$7500 off retail after rebate (over $2000 below invoice in some cases). See earlier posts #789 and #794. Some dealers are offering all in stock...others only certain VIN#s. Call the GM Powerbuyer Managers; I had good luck doing this.
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    Yes you qualify, take your title and tag receipt and make your purchase by 6-31-01.
  • cwindgocwindgo Posts: 3
    What is the Real Differences between Yukon XL and Suburban?
    I've looked around a bit and we've both admired the Yukon XL a bit more than the Sub, but either would suit us fine. My wife and I looked at both the Yukon XL and Sub on Sunday to help answer some questions and finalize what we want, color, int color, sunroof, barn doors or hatch etc. I told both dealers we were comparing the two and who had what to offer.

    The GMC Dealer was aghast that I would even consider a Sub and stated there were over 60 points of differences between the Yukon XL and Sub. Things like GMC has: dent resist metal panels, extra air flow over engine, 16% more lighting, better leather, better trade-in value etc.

    The Chevy dealers answer: "Basically the front grill and some body moldings. Chevy is better priced, more variety on options, same trade-in value..."
    Basically what we saw is: Chevy has optional Fender Flares, diff body moldings, extra color opion in leather(med gray seats w/ dark gray carpet & accents.

    What is the real story? Either Chevy or GMC dealing better in SoCal?
    Thanks for any input.
  • Can any one help? I am planning on trading in my wife's 96 Chrysler Town and Country mini van for a real car - either the C1500 or C2500 Suburban. How should I negotiate the trade in? Will the C1500 pull a 6,000lb 24 foot bay liner boat in the mountains of PA?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    When GM changes the employee price system from Option 1 (order) and Option 2 (off the lot), they said that all they were changing was the name to make it easier to figure out what was what. GMS was to stand for General Motors out of Stock, and GMO was to mean General Motors Order. I am not sure about how the numbers were changed as far as percentage off of list, or over or under invoice. Just wanted to put that out there, people were using them interchangeably and they two separate programs available to all GM employees.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I own a GMC Yukon XL, I based my purchase on looks alone. The hood, grill, body side mouldings, front bumper. The body panels from the door back are all the same as Chevy, maybe even the fenders, but I can't say 100%. The interior stitching on the leather seats is different, but the leather is the same. The Chevy does offer more in the way of flexability, while GMC bundles them all up into packages. If you look at base prices alone you will see GMC has more "standard" features, and if you put the same equipment into a Chevy it sould be the same, or at least close. My quote was different by $75 between the two. Decide what you want on it then go in to the dealer and have them spec one out, then take it to the other dealer and do the same. The barn doors and liftgate get equally dirty, but the liftgate gets a wiper to clean the window. It is no charge to change to the barn doors if you like them better.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Glad to see you are getting out of the soccer mom mobile!! With the 1500 you shouldn't have a problem with your boat. I assume by the use of "c" you want a 2wd unit but here are the figures for both, BTW "k" is 4WD. The 1/2 ton is rated at 7800 lbs with a 3.73:1 axle ratio 2WD, and 7600 lbs 4WD, and with a 4.10:1 axle ratio it can pull 8800 lbs 2WD and 8600 4WD. If all you will be towing is the boat I would stick with the 1500. The ride is less stiff, and if your wife will be doing most of the driving she will love it. One other thing, GET the Autoride. It is worth every penny! It will level off your load when towing and softens the ride tremendously over the standard 1/2 ton suspension under all conditions. Ask heatwave3, he will confirm this, he has a DXL and the autoride is standard. He also tows a boat around the same size, but I am not sure if he has towed it with the DXL yet. The 5.3L engine will be slightly better on gas over the 6.0L in the 2500.

    I have a 2500 4WD Yukon XL w/ 6.0L and get roughly 13 MPG city, 15-16 MPG hwy, with nothing in tow. I also have autoride, but on the 2500 it is a different system, no load leveling, but still a world of difference over the standard 3/4 ton. Try calling around to see if anyone has any with and w/o the autoride, you will see and understand better when you feel the difference during a test drive. If nobody has one with autoride, try a Denali or Denali XL.

    Heatwave3- What is the posted mileage on your window sticker? Mine said "not available", more than likely due to the weight rating/engine combo. Am just curious.
  • mrushingmrushing Posts: 5
    I'm Suburban shopping and like the looks of the Z71. Does anyone have any comments about the ride compared to the LT?
  • arc44arc44 Posts: 7
    Bought my wife K1500 Suburban with autoride 10 days ago. Agree totally with jgmilberg--autoride is great. We drove with and without, you can definitely tell the difference, especially with heavy loads. We have not towed yet, and have no plans to in the near future. Two quick questions: With passengers in rear seats we hear a humming sound from the back of the vehicle for about 10 seconds; I am assuming this is the autoride leveling...is this correct? What is the normal distance for the emergency brake to depress? Ours goes nearly to the floor. Thanks.
  • ethanethan Posts: 4
    I'm looking to buy a Yukon XL in the San Jose/SF area. Can someone recommend a dealer that will sell one at or close to invoice?
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    drseuss: If planning to tow a 6000 lb boat on weekends and use the Yuk for commuting during the week, I think you'll be happier long term in the 1500. On the other hand, if you're planning to upgrade to a heavier boat you might want to consider the 2500. I had two 2500's before and moved to a Denali XL which essentially is the same suspension as the 1500 with autoride. (tow capacity 8400lbs)

    jgmilberg: none of the manufacturers post mpg for 3/4 ton and larger vehicles as there is no government requirement. These vehicles are considered "commercial" and no gas mileage needs to be posted.

    They are required to post the mileage on the DXL since it is a 1500. Both the D and DXL (6.0L) are rated at 12 city and 16 highway. My trip computer has me at 12.8 mpg with 1500 miles. Mostly local commuting with no towing and the occasional heavy foot. (quite a thrill to "jump" on it compared to my 7.4L big block in the 3/4 ton Sub....instant response and great acceleration with the awd.)

    I expect to get better mileage as the engine is broken in however by summer, expect to be back towing regularly with the expected drop in mpgs.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I figured that the mileage wasn't posted for that reason. I had a friend with a '94 3/4 ton truck with a 5.7L and it listed the mileage, but I figured it was because the regular 1/2 ton had the 5.7 available as an option. But now the only way you get the 6.0 is in a 3/4 ton, DXL, Denali,C3, and not available in any 1/2 ton regular models.

    Thanks for the info.
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    mrushing: According to bten (post 843), the Z71 has a stiffer ride than the LT 4X4. I agree with you on it's looks! Saw one in Pewter at the LA Auto Show in January. I ordered a white one (Z71 only available in 4 colors)on March 1st. Checked with dealer today for order status....nothing yet.
  • btenbten Posts: 28
    I would reccommend driving both before you order. I found the Z71 a little stiffer, but the ride was the same on regular roads. (I test drove on some rougher Houston back roads). I also agree on the looks. My Pewter one has a TPW of 4/2/01, also ordered on March 1. The Z71 does sit a little higher. My measurement was 78.75 inches tall, (but I think the tires were overinflated{vs door spec}- for transport). I belive most dealers have at least one on their lot.
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    Does any one have any experience with the front " Bugflector 11 " or lund Interceptor. Some of these are now available already color matched. I was told by the GMC dealer that some of these deflectors direct wind towards the outside review mirrors which makes them shake. Any comments? Also what are people using for the rear wind deflector? Thanks for your comments. Bob
  • grogman1grogman1 Posts: 76
    Bob,
    I have a YXL and installed a BugFlector II. I have had it installed for over a month and have not seen anything shake, the Bugflector, the mirrors.......I don't have a rear wind deflector installed.
  • I have a 2001 Yukon XL to which I added a Lund Interceptor Bug Deflector. It took about 10 minutes to install, incredibly simple. I have not experienced any noise, vibrations or other adverse impacts. Works great, looks good.
  • I recently bought a new 2000 model year Suburban (1500, 5.3L, 4x4) off the lot. Thanks to everyone on this message board for arming me with the info I needed to keep the dealer honest. I've already taken care of the ABS recall and the "Vibration at Low Speed" aka "In a Drum Noise" TSB. The service dept. guy didn't know what hit him! I have a new problem. Took my truck to a local aftermarket parts dealer to have nerf bars installed. I specifically ordered stainless steel "Sure Steps" by Smittybilt. When I picked it up, they had installed Platinum CPS bars by Westin instead. The guy said that Smittybilt didn't make Sure Steps to fit. That's not true, I confirmed it with Smittybilt. The Westins are Chrome plated Stainless Steel and look good, but the whole thing doesn't sit right with me. Does anyone have any experience with Westins or Smittybilt that should influence me in deciding whether to keep the Westins or pitch a fit for the Smittybilts? I appreciate any advice. Sorry for the long post.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I have the Westin Platinum CPS nerf bars. Love them. Easy to clean, really shine good. No rust, pitting, fading, etc. Should last a live time looking like new.
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    Looked in the NHTSA site and didn't see a TSB on the low speed vibration / 'in a drum' issue. What's the number, supposed cause, and potential fix? Thanks.
  • Dustyone -- thanks for the feedback. I have done a little research of my own on the web since that post. I don't know why he lied about Smittybilt not making a model to fit 00-01 Suburbans, but I think I'm actually happier with the Westins. I had just never heard of them before.

    Balser -- the vibration/resonance problem occurred at low speeds (15-40 mph) and was very annoying. It only affects 2000's built before a certain date. My service dept. invoice reads:

    "FOUND HAD UPDATED BODY MOUNTS PER TECH ASSIST CASE #4599072.. UPDATED MOUNTS WAS TO CORRECT RESONANCE TYPE NOISE HEARD... REPLACED ALL 10 BODY MOUNTS AND SHIMS WITH UPDATED MOUNTS AND SHIMS PER TECH ASSIST.. CASE #4599072... P.I. BULLETIN I000187 FAILURE CODE98"

    The part #'s listed are 15049547 CUSHION (10 each), 15018264 SHIM (10 each), and 15018263 SHIM (10 each). It fixed the problem for me. This is also listed on Cliff's web page in the "Known Problems" section. Hope this helps. All work was covered by warranty.
  • Henrysbeach,do you have the Lund part # for the "Interceptor" bugdeflector, & Grogman1 for the Bugflector 11.
    I've have not been able to find the "Interceptor" style for my 2001 YXL. The GMC YXL hood line is different than a Chevy Sub, & the aftermarket web-sites, & parts dealers I've checked do not list an "Interceptor" for the GMC YXL. They do list other Lund deflector models, but not the "Interceptor". I want it in clear, so that it can be back painted. I know that the "Interceptor" is strong & quite rigid, as I had one on my 93 GMC.
    I have seen listings for the Bugflector 11 that are color keyed to the YXL. My only concerns on the Bugflector 11 are: Does it allow enough room between it & hood for cleaning? Does it bend back & touch the hood, or does it require bumpers on the hood or back of deflector to prevent contact? Grogman1, is yours color keyed, clear, or smoke? Does it seem rigid?
    Any part #'s, web sites, places of purchace, & answers to these concerns would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Our 1995 Suburban 1500 has flickering shift indicator light. At times it is out completely, at others it reflects an incorrect gear - could even show Park when in drive. Anyone ever experience this before? I shudder to think about having to have the dash pulled apart at the dealer to fix this but don't think there is an alternative.

    Sure don't want my wife thinking she's in D when she's really in R (could tell an unbelievably funny and expensive experience here but will refrain for her sake!)

    Any comments welcome

    Ken
  • krf_2001krf_2001 Posts: 1
    Planning on purchasing 2001 Yukon XL for everyday use and occasional towing of a 9,500 lb boat. I do not anticipate mountain towing, nor will I use launch ramps. Can I get by with the smaller engine with the 3.73 axle, or do I need the 8100?

    Will the standard weight distributing hitch handle 10,000 lbs, or should I install an aftermarket hitch?

    Would you recommend the locking differential?

    Thanks.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    krf2001: I have posted this information before and thought you (and maybe others) might find it of value again regarding purchase decisions based on towing capacities of GM full size SUVs:

    I would recommend the locking differential, particularly on wet boat ramps where you might not have engaged 4wd. Based on your tow weight your choices are all 3/4 ton Subs or Yukons with one of the following three combinations 6.0L engine with 4.10 rear, 8.1L engine with either the 3.73 or 4.10 rear (either 2wd or 4wd).

    Sorry in advance for the long post. All of the figures below are for the 2001 model year.

    The highest 2wd Yukon tow rating is 7,900lbs with a 5.3L and 3.73 rear. The other 3 configurations for a 2wd Yukon provide the following tow ratings: 6900lbs with 5.3L & 3.42 rear, 6900lbs with 4.8L & 3.73 rear, 5,900lbs with 4.8L & 3.42 rear.

    The highest 4wd Yukon tow rating is 8,700 lbs with a 5.3L & 4.10 rear (4.10 rear not available in 2wd Yukon). The other 3 configurations for a 4wd Yukon provide the following ratings: 7,700lbs with 5.3L & 3.73 rear, 7,700 lbs with 4.8L & 4.10 rear, 6,700 lbs with 4.8L & 3.73 rear.

    The Denali has a tow rating of 8,500lbs with a 6.0L, 3.73 rear and AWD. (This is the only configuration.)

    The highest 2wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 8,800 lbs with a 5.3L & 4.10 rear. The other configuration for a 2wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL is 7,800lbs with 5.3L & 3.73 rear.

    The Denali XL has a tow rating of 8,400lbs with a 6.0L, 3.73 rear and AWD. (This is the only configuration.)

    The highest 4wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 8,600 lbs with a 5.3L & a 4.10 rear. The other configuration for a 4wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL is 7,600lbs with 5.3L & 3.73 rear.

    The highest 2wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 12,000lbs with the 8.1L & 4.10 rear. The other 3 configurations for a 2wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL are 10,900lbs with 8.1L & 3.73 rear, 10,300lbs with the 6.0L & 4.10 rear, 8,300lbs with the 6.0L & 3.73 rear.

    The highest 4wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 12,000lbs with the 8.1L & 4.10. The other 3 configurations for a 4wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL are 10,500lbs with 8.1L & 3.73 rear, 10,000lbs with the 6.0L & 4.10 rear, 8,000lbs with the 6.0L & 3.73 rear.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I am not familiar with the 95, but if it has an electronic readout for the indicator, the switch on the side of the trans is going bad. My father in-law has a '96 full size van and had the same problem a few months ago. The switch cost like $60 at the dealer, and it was the only place that had it. I didn't have time to go to SPO to get it otherwise it would have been half the price. Cured the problem. Does the whole indicator go out all together or just the red ring? If just the red ring it is more than likely the switch. You could take it to a trans shop or dealership to get the work done if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. Good luck.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    There is no red ring on this light - just a yellow bar (electronic light?) that lines up with the gear selection.

    Thanks for the suggestion

    Ken
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    Thanks for the info on the vibration fix. I knew about the body mounts just haven't gotten it done. I thought maybe something new had come up. Is it me, or does the problem not show up in the NHTSA database???
  • rpirpi Posts: 7
    2000 Yukon XL has developed a whine or high pitched buzzing from the fuel pump. Anyone else experience this. Dealer says its normal in all Yukons. I have not noticed this before. It is not audible inside the truck but is very apparent when windows are rolled down or truck is idling in the driveway.
  • I got my Lund Interceptor from autoaccessory.com. Thier product number was LUNI8XXX-Smoke. I paid $60.82, including tax and shipping.
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    Just picked up my new Yukon XL from Randy at Southern GM in Shelbyville, Tenn. Its rides like a dream. Drove 319 miles back home and it was wonderful!!! I am not advertising for this dealership, however, they sell everything on the lot and special orders for $200 UNDER INVOICE everyday. You can price it off the Edmunds site and they will be $200.00 under invoice. Also got the $1000.00 loyalty discount since I presently own a Suburban. No hassles, no hidden agenda, just a good honest deal. Although I mentioned the $200.00 under invoice twice, notice that I mentioned the name of the dealership only once.

    Unless you have kept up with previous posts, this last sentence will not make any sense to you.....
  • larrys7larrys7 Posts: 35
    18064 - Smoke & 18164 - Clear. Lund Interceptor
    Highly recommend this bug sheild. This is one of my top sellers. Painted to match & Lifetime Warranty. Best on the Market. Now NO DRILL. Insert a plastic plug in GM holes & screw it to it.
    Checked with Bushwacker today - No flares available for the Denali XL.
    Checked with Nifty also - No floor mats available yet.
  • Thanks for the info & help! Larrys7, do you sell the Interceptors? You sound like you may. If so, is it available from the factory back painted "indigo blue" (code 39), or do you do the painting. Do you have a web site? How would I order a back painted Interceptor. Do you also sell the factory color keyed Bugflector 11? How does it compare to the Interceptor in price & quality? Any ideas on wheel lip moldings or flares on the 1500 4WD 2001 GMC YXL? Thanks, Dave
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    I have the 8.1L and it always runs cool, even towing full throttle on mountain grades. However, I haven't towed on any 100deg+ days yet (probably not many owners have, since the engine only became available last fall).

    According to early spy reports, GM did initially have cooling problems on the 8.1L motor that reportedly delayed the introduction. However, I believe that the design is solid now.

    My YukonXL 8.1L has the front bumper cutouts for extra cooling - I understand that some of the 8.1L Subs/YukXLs were produced WITHOUT the extra cooling cutouts (like the 5.3L/6.0L bumper) - I don't know why.

    In any case, it sounds like you probably have a simple stuck thermostat problem or such, especially if this happens in normal driving or idling.

    I really like the 8.1L, except for the annoying torque management which abruptly drops the torque in some full throttle situations. I also wish it came with a larger gas tank.
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    The standard hitch is OK for 10,000lbs (not OK for 12,000lbs) - however be sure to also check the tongue weight also. The limited-slip differential is "recommended" when towing - it gives better control for all marginal traction situations (loose gravel on road, pulling off the shoulder, water, snow, etc). If 2wd, definitely get the LSD.

    For the 6.0 vs. 8.1L decision, if you were pulling 9500lbs in mountains I would say definitely 8.1L. However, since you are in flatlands, you will need to consider "how" you tow. Are you happy to tow at 60mph, or do you want to go 80mph? Will you tow with a headwind - or do you mind if you can only make 50-60mph with a headwind? Do you tow a long distance or just a short distance (if long, the extra durability of the 8.1L and its stronger rear axle may be critical). The 8.1L's axle should also have a higher dead weight capacity that would be helpful for a heavy boat trailer. In any case, 9500lbs is certainly at the outer limits of the 6.0L's practical ability for short trips.

    For daily driving, the 8.1L eats more fuel and is noisier.
  • grogman1grogman1 Posts: 76
    I have the smoked one. There is plenty of room between the 'flector and the hood for cleaning. I put the rubber bumpers on the back of the 'flector as a precaution. The only parts that I think could touch the hood are at the corners, but even there you have to apply a fair amount of preasure to bend a corner back to touch the hood. It is fairly rigid.

    I suggest checking one out at a local car parts place, to see it firsthand. I don't have the part number - I pitched the box. I just went to the local Pep Boy's and asked the kid with the ring in his nose to get me the correct model for an 01 YXL. I think I paid $39.00.
  • 330iguy330iguy Posts: 4
    New guy here. Read the past 890+ posts over the past week. Whew! Anyhow, I was wondering if GM is planning to put in an optional navigation system into the Subie/Yukies in the near future. If not, has any of you put in Nav systems in your vehicles? TIA.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Welcome to Town Hall. Don't forget the archived discussions--there are 415 discussions with 100's more messages you're welcome to plow through next week :-). Double whew!

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • fiber700fiber700 Posts: 18
    I notice a high pitched whine coming from the fuel tank area when I am low on gas and I guess the fuel pump inside the tank has become uncovered by not enough fuel. This has caused me to have to fill up more often than I normally would.

    Clifford
  • djcm5djcm5 Posts: 4
    I've had a love/hate relationship with my Yukon, and a terrible relationship with the dealer organization. From the very beginning, I have had battery problems and excessive oil consumption problems. I have 26K miles on my vehicle, and I have never been able to go more than 3400 miles w/o the "check engine oil" light coming on. When that happens, I am already 2 quarts low. I have never owned a vehicle (I've bought 20 new cars since '90) that I had to add oil to between oil changes. Two dealers have responded with the GM position that "unless the vehicle consumes more than 1 quart every 500 miles, it is considered normal". That would mean that there is something wrong with my brother in law's exact same Yukon XL, because it doesn't consume oil? Also, I've had to order GM roadside assistance at least 5 times, to jump-start the battery. Again, 2 different dealers have tested and re-tested only to tell me that they can't find anything wrong. OF COURSE SOMETHING IS WRONG - THE BATTERY KEEPS GOING DEAD! The last dealer refused to at least swap out the battery for a new one, so I went to NTB and bought a new battery, with more cranking amps, and voila - the truck can now sit more than 3 days without a problem - I should never have had to spend my own $ on this obvious solution.

    Having said all of this, I would still buy another Yukon XL, as it has no peers - the autoride, automatic climate controls (front and back), and other amenities can't be found on any other vehicle in its class - I just wish I didn't have to deal with the GM dealer organization to address my warranty problems
  • larrys7larrys7 Posts: 35
    Circutman - Yes we paint accessories at our shop.
    For a Black shield I recommend smoke & spay the back side with some from aerosol. Other color we mix Dupont Chroma-base to factory specs. Web site is under construction & hope to be up by the end of week. I prefer Lund Interceptors over any other hood protector out there myself... No drilling required on the new GM SUVs/Trucks. I will be painting one tomorrow for my Denali XL (white). I painted two Indigo Blues last week. I checked on fender flares - N/A yet through Bushwacker. Will Check further on other items this week since mine has finally arrived. Will have a pics posted asap www.1stopautoshop.net
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    djcm5: This may be too obvious, however do you have a hands-free cell phone or other similar device that might be draining the battery over several days when the vehicle is not started up?
    Just a thought.
  • 330iguy330iguy Posts: 4
    Since you seem to post every so often, can you point me to some discussions (if any at all) about factory or aftermarket nav's while I plow through the archives? I imagine you've seen a few around lately. Thanks in advance. I'm surprised no one has thought about this as I'd imagine these types of vehicles would be an ideal for nav installs because they tend to be "long haulers". Oh well, onto the archives!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Here's a couple of active discussions and one recently archived discussion for your perusal:

    In-car and Mobile GPS Navigation systems

    Vehicles with optional GPS

    In Built Navigation or after Market

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • fiber700fiber700 Posts: 18
    In the back of the owner's manual is the procedure for a dispute resolution through the Better Business Bureau. Filing a claim with them gets quick action from GM. I suggest you file a claim with the BBB.
  • djcm5djcm5 Posts: 4
    Heatwave3: Thanks for your interest. I wish I could blame a device plugged into the accessory socket, but I can't. The last time the battery died my wife had a cell phone turned on and plugged into the cig lighter, but it only took one night for the battery to die - that short exposure shouldn't cause a problem. Other times nothing is plugged in. Regardless, the new battery seems to have done the trick - I just wish I didn't have to pay for it! In fact, I was able to leave it sitting for a record-breaking 9 days, and it started right up. I'm convinced I had a defective battery from day one, but 3 GM dealers continued to claim that the battery tested O.K. (while insulting my intelligence). IF only Lexus sold the vehicle - I have no complaints about the build quality - the Mexican plant builds a great vehicle. I attribute my problems to bad luck, and I applaud GM for a great product, but the dealers continue to act like, well, American manufacturers.
  • djcm5djcm5 Posts: 4
    Fiber700: Thanks for the tip. You'll notice that I believe I solved the battery problem, but the oil consumption problem is continues.
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