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I've negelected Jimmy far to long. Pulled the radiator and the lower half was clogged. I'll pull the accessory brackets and pull plugs, it needs a tune up something bad. l just want it last till next summer when we'll buy something newer.
Thanks for the advice and I'll post what I find, sometime this week.
Buzz
The transmission went down at the 162,000 mile mark... 3-4 gear clutch pack finally went. I purchased vehicle with 81,000 miles in 2004... flushed the transmission three times before it went down. I found a shop that had all kinds of test equipment... for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc... all the parts inside so that they knew everything was working before the put anything back in the tranny. They also insisted that the transmission be filled with Synthetic ATF... I had no problem with that... as I had never had the opportunity to use the Amsoil ATF. Trans runs about 50 degrees cooler.
I currently have 182,000 miles... about two years ago I wanted to put a dist cap on with brass contacts. I order my wires, cap and rotors from Jacobs Electronics. The cap and rotor I orderd two years ago... turned out to have aluminum contacts when I opened it this last June. I did not change it right away... because I had just changed out the cap, rotor, and wires with AC Delco parts... I should have done so right away. Anyway... about six months ago I called around looking for a cap with brass contacts... AutoZone and Advanced Auto gave me a price of $65.00... too rich for me... so I just put it on the back burner. I checked again two weeks ago... Neither store carries them... so I ended up at NAPA... $41.00... I will be buying another dist cap next mount to keep on the shelf... my point is... the brass contacts made a big difference in idle and performance... still getting numbers on miles per gallon... but before I did the change... I was getting 20-21 MPG.
Take care,
TJ
Thank you,
TJ
Misfire under load is almost always an ignition problem. You could buy spark plugs and try that. I don't recall if your year/model uses coil packs or actual distributor cap and wires, but if the latter you could replace those, too.
:mad:
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Being an old school 'wrench' I was accustomed to a normal distributor cap.
I didn't realize that the actual contact for #4 was opposite from the #4 wire.
I pulled the timing chain cover off and all was well. So I pulled the accessories off and cleaned everything.
Bought all new tune up parts, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
Still no start and I hear that dreaded sucking sound coming out of the intake like a bad valve. Plus the backfire through the intake.
So we're looking for another rig. I want another Blazer, but she wants a frickin' Pontiac Vibe......................:(
Thanks for the replies. But think it'll sit till next summer. Thinking about a 350 CI for it. Be a long term project a real sleeper.
Buzz
I'm working on the same idea of the engine swap for my S10 pickup, not my Blazer. should be a lot of fun.
I just wanted to share my recent experience. My 18-year old son crashed my 2000 Blazer. I had to pay more than $3,000 to fix it but the pain was more than the one-time expenditure. My Blazer now has subtle vibration on the steering wheel at acceleration and coasting, and the vibration is accompanied by the loud road noise. I think that the collision caused a misalignment of axles.
I really miss the smooth, quiet, silky ride of my Blazer. Now my Blazer is driving like a rough, noisy truck. I bought it new in 2000 and it has 83,000 miles on it.
Just a thought for everyone: if you test drive a used car or SUV, pay attention to any roughness of ride on accelaration and coasting. If you feel any roughness or excessive road noise, it may be because of misalignment of axles from an accident.
Thank you for your kind words. I will test it and let you know as soon as possible.
Doug
I tried and listened to the sound from the front end and feel the vibration on the steering wheel while the vehicle was making right and left turns and moving straight. It sounded like those problems were significantly reduced during the turn, both right and left, even though the weight was on the front wheels. I do not seem to hear humming noise during the turns. In the meantime, the noise and vibration seemed to exist whenever the vehicle was moving and they increased and decreased as the speed went up and down on the straight path and during the turns.
Do you have any ideas?
Do you think the noise and vibration could be from over-inflated tires? The body shop seems to have kindly cleaned and inflated the tires for me.
I will try and hear the noise and feel the vibration when the vehicle is driving on the very smooth road surface, where the tire noise is expected to be minimum. Thank you again for your help. I will post my message again.
has new fuel pump,fuel filter,egr,maf, dist. cap,rotor,plugs, wires,thought maybe exhaust drop converter still the same
To remove the hydraulic cylinders, take a small flat blade and pop of the little flat c-clips at both ends of the unit. Watch your eyes, those things will fly when they come off!
And did you change them? If so, was it a hard project? Any help would be great
:sick:
Do you have to remove the bumber, or can you replace them from under the vehicle?
Thank you for your message.
I am thinking of taking out the entire turn signal assembly - about 1.5 feet wide, a few inches tall, a few inches deep - with the orange plastic front plate equipped with the turn signal only. Then I would install a replacement assembly with both the turn light and the fog lamp.
image example: http://ketech-llc.amazonwebstore.com/shared/viewProductImage.html?http://ecx.ima- - - ges-amazon.com/images/I/41X6Z1Jxc-L.jpg
The assembly seems to be being fixed to the bumper unit by screws but I do not see the screws from in the engine room or from under the bumper.
The body shop knowingly installed the wrong assemblies - he said that he found a used set of parts without the fog lamp at a discount price. I benefited from the pricing, so I felt I would not ask the body shop to redo the job.
I would appreciate if you could tell me how to remove the turn signal assembly.
Thank you for your message. Your information based on your real experience is the most valuable. I will try and replace the assemblies on my Blazer.
Any ideas?
Did someone hand you this or did you look it up on a chart from a chain store or was this a dealer item?
What I'm driving at is that if you went to a chain store, you might try something a notch up, like NAPA.
Thanks again for your advice.
I also tried dropping the starter to get to the connections, but could not get the starter to come out. Do I need to take the flywheel cover off, or should I be able to get the starter out without removing the cover? The flywheel cover bolts are very tight (cannot loosen even with air tools). Please advise on how to take starter motor out. Thanks.
Remove:
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Brush end mounting bracket (if equipped).
3. Solenoid wiring.
o Raise the vehicle.
Remove:
4. Skid plate (if equipped).
5. Bolts and the two brackets holding the brake pipe to the crossmember.
6. Crossmember (three bolts on each side).
7. Bracket holding the transmission fluid cooler lines to the flywheel housing, brace rod to the flywheel housing, and/or the lower flywheel housing if necessary.
8. Two bolts holding the starter to the engine.
9. Starter and the shim (if equipped).
Install
1. Starter and shims in their original locations (if equipped) to the engine with bolts.
Tighten
* Starter mounting bolts to 43 Nm (32 lbs. ft.) .
2. Lower flywheel cover (if removed).
3. Transmission lines bracket to the housing (if equipped).
4. Brace rod to the housing (if equipped).
5. Crossmember to the frame end with six bolts.
6. Two brake line brackets to the crossmember with bolts.
7. Skid plate (it equipped).
8. Solenoid wiring
9. Brush end brace and wiring (if equipped).
Tighten
* Brush end brace nuts to 11 Nm (97 lbs. in.) .
10. Wires to the solenoid terminals.
11. Negative battery cable.