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Comments
2000 Blazer LS 4x4
The gauge is either a poor connection, or more likely a worn float assembly. The float assembly and fuel pump come together for these vehicles, so replacing the fuel pump/fuel sender may fix both problems. About $130 for the parts. I'd check with Rock Auto on the net first, ususlly have best prices.
Thanks for your help.
I know this is not what you were hoping for, but been there, done that. Design life is about 75,000 miles, anything beyond that you are living on borrowed time.
There are several rebuild kits around and most have upgraded 3/4 clutch parts (Google). There are DVD videos available to take you through the rebuild process, and some Barnes and Noble stores or Amazon have books. Like you, I have never done one of these. I kept the old transmission to rebuild when I had a used one installed, so I will build it with the upgraded parts.
Running in 4th is a large part of the problem, because the low engine RPM's don't turn the pump fast enough to build up real good pressure to hold the clutches engaged. That's why the recommendation is to to only tow in 3rd gear. I drive around town in 2nd, so the 3/4 clutches don't even get used part of the time.
(3-4) 7 clutch (clutch pack)... to a 9 clutch (clutch pack)... Jeff said it would last longer. Those are the only two upgrades I have make. Transmission felt the same as before... very happy with their work. Price was about $2100.00
TJ
The next thing I want to check is vacuum and PCV hoses.
Can anyone tell me exactly where they are? Can I inspect those hoses easily without removing any parts?
For the PCV hose, a little trick to save you some money. You have a hard plastic line with a straight vacuum line on one end, and a molded right angle hose on the other. For whatever reason, the parts houses around here don't carry that assembly, it is listed as a dealer item. $$$$$
But they do carry the PCV hose assembly for the 5.7L V8 for about $5-6. The hard plastic portion is too long for the 4.3L. Simple, just buy the assembly for the 5.7L, but DON'T TRY TO PULL THE HOSES OFF! Instead, try to push them further onto the hard plastic. This will cause the hose to bulge out and break the glue seal holding them onto the hard plastic. Do the same thing on the original PCV assembly from your Blazer, then just put the new rubber pieces from the 5.7 onto the shorter hard plastic piece from your 4.3L. There you go, a perfectly good PCV vacuum hose assembly for a lot less money than what the dealer would charge!
Thanks for your message. I did not clear the code, and that was what I was wondering about. I presumed that the code would renew itself... Do I have to clear the code to see if my cure worked?
Thank you again for your kind message. I have read your message carefully and will print it out and do what you suggested.
Again, thank you for your help based on your experience.
Here is my update. My Blazer's SES light is turned off after I cleaned the MAF sensor with a sprayed a few days ago. I was planning to have the SES light cleared at Autozone today but when I started the engine the SES was no more lit. I did a lot of homework about the vacuum and PCV hoses and I will keep my research for the next time I need it.
Thank you again for your help. Have a good Memorial Day weekend.
Have a great weekend
I need to know what kind of tools and the proceedure for doing this myself. I have worked with AC before, own two classic cars, and have a wife with an extensive first aid kit.
While I am there, I plan to replace the water pump and the big rubber band.
Pat
TOOLS REQUIRED
* J 33013-B Hub and Drive Plate Remover/Installer
* J 33027-A Clutch Hub Holding Tool
* J 41790 A/C Compressor Holding Fixture
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB ASSEMBLY REMOVAL (With RPO Code HT6/HD6/HU6)
TOOLS REQUIRED
* J 34992 Compressor Holding Fixture
* J 33013-B Hub and Drive Plate Remover/Installer
This is all done off-vehicle of course so you'll need to evacuate and recharge the AC as well.
Looks like your heater core is just clogged and is not leaking. If I were you, I would bring the vehicle to another shop (maybe a reputable dealer or someone you can really trust) and have it examined. They might be able to flush your heater core.
Good luck to you.
I've never had any luck clearing a clogged cooling system with flushing,. The chemicals just don't eat away the stuff. The only sure cure is to Remove and Replace. Your radiator and heater core may begin to leak due to the corrosion of the aluminum. This is usually due to the electrical current created between the aluminum radiator and iron engine block by the weak antifreeze (same as above).
There are no signs of leaks, I just smell mildew when it rains.
What do you think could be the problem?
Since the DRL work with the flashlight and in daytime, the photocell must be OK and the body control module (computer) is correctly switching the DRL off, but the headlights aren't coming on.
Could be fuse for headlights or headlight relay. A wiring diagram (mine is in another state right now) would let you track down the headlight relay wiring, and then follow the wiring to the trouble spot.
I just checked a GM parts listing for a '98 S series Blazer, and there is a DRL module listed. It is mounted on a bracket next to the headlight relay. There is also a diode listed in the circuit. I wish I could be more help, but the detail on this is very sketchy. I did just find a DRL "typical" schematic for GM, and it shows that if the headlight switch is bad, the DRL will work, but not the headlights. They are fed from different sources.
Try not to be demanding, but explain that this was a problem caused by the dealer and you should not have to pay to correct something they caused.
If you bought the Blazer new, that is in your favor and add that to the letter, as well as any GM/Chevrolet purchased new by you or your family.
After you've sent the letter, you might try calling, but expect many delays in contacting anyone that has the authority to make them fix the problem.
This is just a suggestion because I did that for my mother once and it did work at that time.
Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
If it was not that way before you took it to the dealership, they may have hit a curb or something while moving it around b ecause the steering wheel is not going get off center by itself. The dealership is correct in saying that the steering wheel cannot be realigned without realigning the front wheels.
When you aligned the front end of the cars before the late-1970s, you seldom got the car back from the shop with the steering wheel centered when the vehicle was traveling straight ahead. That is because the shop technician did not use the special tool that holds the steering wheel in the correct position while the technician aligns the front wheels. When that happened to me, I just removed the steering wheel and realigned it on the splined steering shaft. That is not the proper way to do it but it achieves the same thing as doing it the correct way by realigning the front wheels. The end of the steering shaft has a "pip" mark at the steering wheel retainer nut and a pip mark on the center line of the steering wheel under the horn button assembly and those should be in alignment. There is also a "pip" mark on the steering shaft at the steering coupler . The coupler is mounted on the centerline of the steering shaft and should be aligned with the pip mark on the end of the steering shaft and the pip mark on the steering wheel. The flexible steering coupler connects the steering shaft to the steering sector.
It is more complicated on modern cars because the wheel alignment alone determines the steering wheel position.
That being said, this vehicle DOES NOT use an alignment slot, though some cars do. And if the steering wheel is installed just one tooth off, it will definitely be turned when the car is going straight.
How about this; take it back to the shop and tell them to remove the airbag cover and air bag. This will allow a visual inspection of the steering wheel and shaft. If the alignment marks are not lined up, they pull the wheel and make it right and you should owe them nothing. If the marks are lined up properly, then you need to find out how the alignment became altered.
One other question; have the tires been rotated? It is not uncommon to have a bad tire cause a slight pull on the steering, resulting in the wheel being turned slightly when the vehicle is going straight. I have a BFGoodrich Radial T/A on a '99 Blazer right now that is doing this. Tire is smooth, wearing properly, but if I rotate it to the front, the vehicle will pull slightly in the direction it is installed. Put it on the rear, no problem.
You are going to have to be really firm with these people. The service writer's job is to generate as much work and income as possible. Customer Satisfaction is not on their list of things to do. As a matter of fact, they are experts at stonewalling, to minimize the amount of "come back" work, since it reduces the incoming cash flow.
Demand to speak to the service manager, and don't take "no" for an answer until they have taken the necessary steps to resolve the problem. It doesn't hurt to reference the regional service organization, and the better business bureau. If this steering wheel was straight when you took it in, then they are obligated to return it in that condition, one way or another.
If it has to have an alignment, I wouldn't have the dealer do it. Take it to a locally owned, independent alignment shop.
I think the suggestion to pull the airbag and check the marks is a really good one.
Maybe they do not have the right tools to do the job.
* Tools Required:
* J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller.
* J 29107-A Pitman Arm Puller.
* J 6632-01 Pitman Arm Remover.