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The first thing they checked was the fuel pump, which they replaced after running a test on it and finding it faulty. I think GM did a recall on those soon after. That's what was causing my hesitation in taking off from a stop. The thing that they found was causing the vibration was my catalytic converter, of all things, which may also have been causing some hesitation as well, due to back-pressure. There were faulty parts inside that broke loose and were clogging it up. They replaced that too, but took 2 more visits before they figured that out. GM had a recall on the converters a year after that as well, which is when I had the same problem again, and had my 2nd converter replaced!
I thought that was the end of my converter problems, until 2 years later, right after the truck was out of warranty of course, my truck was making a horrible vibration at idle. It went away after about 15 mph, but returned at every stop. It got a little better when I put it in park or neutral, so I figured it may be a transmission issue, but after all my converter experiences, I was still suspicious about that maybe being the source. I took it in to my service manager twice, the first time at no charge because they couldn't find the problem and the transmission was fine. I had explained to him that it started right after my last off-roading trip and I was suspicious about the catalytic converter, wondering if that would give him a clue about what to look for. But it wasn't until the second visit, that they got their "exhaust specialist" to check it out. This time, and you're not going to believe this, they found gravel and dirt had gotten crammed into the space between the heat shield and converter casing, which was keeping the exhaust from flexing, thus causing the vibration! Who would have guessed?! He didn't charge me much, because he felt bad about not catching something so goofy before, and he's a great guy too.
Anyway, I don't know if any of that's what's causing your Blazer's problems, but it really sounds like an exhaust issue. One last thought, do you have the under-body shield package? Because I also had a loose bolt on my front transfer case shield that caused a rattling, but that doesn't sound like the same thing you're talking about. Hope that helps!
As for the seat handle, it's reassuring to know that other people have had the same problem, and it's not something due to the owner (which seems unlikely since it's 99% driven with no passengers).
As for the truck, still not complaining about it too much - no major problems considering the price/space&horsepower. Last gripe that I just remembered I had when I bought it was that for the trim package/year I had, I didn't get the leather because it's a 2-door, and for some reason didn't come with radio controls on the steering wheel. I guess I'm more concerned with getting from A to B than the toys so it didn't bother me too much.
Overall, when someone asks me about my truck, i have nothing but great things to say. Im getting a new truck in the month. I wish they still made Jimmy's, i want a new one. Im leaning towards Jeeps now for that reason. BUT i loved my truck so much that i am looking for a new used one.
PS: My aunt drives a 2000 Jimmy, and a friend drives a 1998 Blazer...that turnsignal noise is a problem. THe problem is actually in the steering column with the turn signal. For what my friend paid to get it fixed, he suggested that my aunt just turn up her radio
chomz78@aol.com
john
Steve
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I have found that you can actually do some damage with more frequent removals to the spark plug wires unless you are very careful.
Tom and Ray
Searching the net for frozen spark plugs turns up very little, so maybe it's nothing to worry about.
Steve
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I am interested to know if anyone has advice about which pads to purchase. Are there pads that will last longer and are there pads that will improve break feel. I feel like I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop.
Finally, I have the same question about rotors. Has anyone had experience with aftermarket rotors which improve braking (cross drilled etc.).
I'd like to start off by saying I know absolutely nothing about cars, so I am turning to all of you for some advice.
I just purchased a new 2002 Blazer, and have had it for 2 weeks. It has 600 miles on it. I have noticed something with the Blazer which I have never experienced with any other vehicle I have owned.
Sometimes when I am driving the engine is extremely loud, and has very poor acceleration. Poor acceleration to the point where it feels I am fighting the gas pedal to get the car to move. Acceleration which doesn't seem consistent with a 4.3L V6. Then I'll be driving and all of the sudden it goes away and the engine is quiet, with great acceleration, which is how the drive should be. I'll drive for 10 minutes or so, and then all of the sudden the engine becomes very loud again with very poor acceleration. Then it will switch back to being quiet with good acceleration. This happens throughout my ride. Also I am always driving on level surfaces because there are no hills where I live. One more thing, I live in Las Vegas where temperatures right now exceed 100 degrees daily.
Is this normal for a new vehicle? Could the high temps have something to do with this? Can someone please help me? I took it back to the dealer and they said there were no problems, but it just seems the engine would be more consistent that this. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
I live in Phoenix, and was concerned about it after the first time I test drove a Blazer years ago. I spoke to my service manager about the fan issue, wondering if it was robbing horsepower or if it was just my imagination, and he told me that according to GM, it doesn't, but he had a '97 Sonoma and knew that it was.
So, when I ordered my '98 GMC Jimmy 4x4 in October of '97, I also ordered a K&N air filter. As soon as my Jimmy rolled off of the truck, I took it for a test drive. After I went back to the dealer to sign all the papers, I popped the hood and swapped out the paper filter for the filtercharger. It seems to have made a noticeable difference, not only in regular driving, but also when it gets hot and the fan kicks into high speed action. The only time it seems to do that is when my truck, which is black, sits in the direct sun for an hour or so when it's 105º+.
I have driven other Blazers/Jimmys/Bravadas with the standard air filter and they don't seem to have the same punch as my truck with the K&N. It's only about 30 bucks at Auto Zone, and well worth it. And as a bonus, the only time I ever really have to clean it is after an intense off-road excursion in a lot of dust. They're supposed to work even more efficiently with a bit of grit anyway. Don't ask me to explain that either...
Give that a try, or go one more step and add the Ram Air kit that comes with a filtercharger by K&N or Air Raid, that's supposed to give you a little denser air for more hp. It's very easy to install in about 10 minutes, but since you don't know much about cars, as you stated, you may want to have someone install it for you, or just go with the filter alone.
Hope that helps! –TB
I was wondering if it was common, or if you guys have heard anything about the transmissions in the 98 blazers going bad. Just last week my truck shifted out of 1st, but won't move out of 2nd. It will accelerate to about 45 mph, and then after that if you hit the gas it just revs real high, and won't come back down until you stop. Anyone have any insight into this problem? They are trying to tell me it is going to cost 2300 because it is shot. Can someone help me out??
Thanks in advance!!
TSB # 01-07-30-023A
Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
1996 Buick Roadmaster
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)
Built Prior to January 15, 1999 (Julian Date 9015)
This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
01-07-30-023 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon
indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to duplicate when
the transmission temperature is below 93°C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that contains the
TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important
DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line pressure
and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC required for the
second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive cycle).
When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is stored as
a history code.
When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check Engine Light
(CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. These valves are used in all
transmissions produced after January 15, 1999 (Julian Date 9015), and all of the service parts currently
available through GMSPO contain revised TCC regulator and isolator valves.
Important
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or before DTC
P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor.
The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal fragments
What was this? Should I take this in to get it serviced? It seems like it is fine now, but I know nothing about automobiles, what do you all recommend? I don't want to damage something further, even thought the engine light has now gone off. Thanks!
-e
Msg 425 seems to indicate the same problem with no solution. Has anyone else heard this? As Topdog says in msg 425 it's usually loudest just as you put the ignition into run (or whatever it is just before the engine starts) but sometimes I can hear it after the engine has been started.
It drives me crazy, so if anyone has any thoughts I'd love to hear them. Would it be detrimental for me to snip the sensor? I find the automatic environmental controls never work right for me anyway (I want all AC all the time, baby!)
Knowing where to look for problem took me about 1 hour to remove seat-4 nuts, 2 quick wiring connecters-and 4 bolts on power seat frame to get to exposed wires tape and reinstall. Really bad routing of wires.
Have a rattling coming from underneath. Sounds like loose exhaust but I can't find anything loose. Anyone have this problem?
I looked for a diagnostic connector yesterday for about two hours. I'm assuming this truck doesn't have one. I thought someone on this site may be able to confirm that.
We've been trying to diagnose a bad idleing & stumbling problem now for about three weeks. It's starting to wear on us a bit. I thought my OTC Monitor would help by giving us a trouble code, but we can't seem to find a ALDL anywhere.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.:)
There are a lot of vacuum hoses right? My first guess is a vacuum leak. EGR valve could be acting up too. The worst scenario is an electro/ mechanical part on the carb. You got wires going to the carb? There is an idle mixture solenoid that I had to replace which cost a bundle back then. Couldn't diagnose those smog engines either.
A long shot may be the upper or lower ball joints, too. Had those wear-out, along with the idler arm and pitman arm at 46k miles (even though they were greased every 3-5k miles). There is also a recall for ball joint separation on '97 S-trucks due to corrosion, if you are in the Rust Belt.
Hope this helps.
Use to be you just changed a plastic gear where the odo/speedometer cable entered the transmission.
The 235/70-15 OEM tires really limit the available tires. I would like to go with the Yoko Geolander HTs but the closest size is 235/75-15.
I ordered my '98 Jimmy SLS 4x4, and when it came in, I drove it straight over to Discount Tire and put bigger Pathfinder All-Terrain tires on. At the time, I went by the manual, which told me I could only go up to 235/75R-15, so that's what I went with. I was curious to see any change in the speedometer, drove by a neighborhood digital radar stand, and found my speedo was right on.
Since then, I came to realize that I could go one more tire size bigger, without causing any problems. I don't know why my GMC manual told me differently, but I put 30" x 9.50" R15 BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KOs, after talking with a manager friend of mine at Discount Tire, and couldn't be happier (I wanted to go to a 31", like the ZR-2, but of course that would require a lift kit to clear them). I drove by an airport digital radar stand, and once again, the speedo is still right on.
I only have great things to say about these tires, and it makes it even more enjoyable that the speedometer wasn't affected at all. The compound that BFG uses is unequaled by any other manufacturer, and I looked at ALL the different makes. Even though these A/Ts have the most aggressive All-Terrain tread in the industry, they are extremely quiet and absorb major bumps and impacts, while providing the best off-road traction I've ever experienced. Not to mention they look extremely cool! They make my truck look a lot beefier. You can check it out here:
http://www.tbcreative.com/images/links/jimmy_custom2002.jpg
Driving on these is like night and day, compared to other tires I've had or driven on, including Goodyear, Michelin, Perelli, Uniroyal, and Bridgestone. As long as I own a vehicle that I take off-roading or on long trips, I will never own another brand or type of tire, unless something else phenomenal comes out. If something superior does come out, it'll probably be from BF Goodrich/Michelin (since they now own BFG). There's a reason they put them on the new Hummer H2.
I'm thinking about trading my Jimmy in on the all-new 2003 4Runner, because of all of it's great off-road and safety enhancements, not to mention it's class-leading ground clearance, and if I do, I'm swapping whatever tire that comes on it with BFG All-Terrains!
I think it might be the "Transfer Case Motor" at $430+Labor from the Dealer.
Has anyone had a similar problem? If so what was your solution. The Transfer Case Motor takes about 5 minutes to unbolt from the transfer case itself but I couldn't get it out of the car after unbolting (blocked by the trans, drive shaft...) Any tips on how to get it out.
The part number for the whole unit is:15636696.
The Transfer Case Motor has three major components:
1) metal body containing the gears.
2) female plug receptacle which appears to contain some type of rotating position indicator.
3) motor
Are any of these parts sold separately?
Luckily, that happened while my truck was under warranty. What they found to be the problem was not the transfer case motor at all, but a bad solenoid that is part of the electronic transfer mechanism. Before you go through all of the labor and expense of changing the TC Motor, I would run a diagnostic, or check the electronics first. It sounds like you're having a similar problem, but you may be right after all.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Takes time for gas to get to motor.
Fuel pump pumping when turn on
any help thanks....