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-Gas gauge doesn't work (I already replaced the cap)
-4WD doesn't work
-Persistent SES light. The code was "too rich." Once the code was cleared a few months ago by a friend, it didn't come back - yet. The dealer wanted $600 to replace the fuel pressure regulator to fix this.
-Wheel bearings (is that the ball joint?) wore out at 40,000 miles
-Glove box light flickers
-Various rattles, squeaks, buzzes and other noises
There's a few other things that I'm forgetting, but who could blame me? I communicated with GMC Customer Assistance about all this, and was told (as expected) that I was out of warranty (barely) and they couldn't help. The point is, I feel like I got ripped off and there's not a thing I can do. How can we all have the same problems, and GMC gets away with it? Thanks for the vent. Now, does anyone have any suggestions, either mechanical or legal?
jrl5, what is a "Moog" part? My 1997 truck's VIN didn't fall under the recall. The recall was only for uppers anyway. I was told by my mechanic and the dealer that my uppers were fine anyway.
Sugar Cookie
Just curious why are the drls such a big deal?
I have replaced the ignition swith, muffler as well as exhaust system... and now this...
After reading stuff on this message board, I am having serious buyer's remorse. Hope someone out there can be of help. Thanks!
The problem sounds kinda like a U-Joint especially if you have 50K miles.
Do you have your tires balanced? Could also be that
It is customary to have to replace u-joints on these vehicles at such low mileage?
I used to own a Nissan Pathfinder, and had them replaced at 95000K and that was only a precautionary measure, due to long trips to Florida to care for my ill father. It really didn't need them when I did it.
Thanks for your input and any further you might have.
I have a 2000 Blazer 2dr 4WD. At 32,000 mi the right front hub / bearing assembly had to be replaced at 35,000 the left front. Asked service manager if this was usual problem and if I was looking at this every 30,000 miles. He said no that this was just chance. Of course now at 66,000 right front needs replacement again (and I'll bet left in 2,000 more miles). First repair was under warranty so now they want to charge $555.00 for the repair. All service gets done at the dealer so they are usually pretty good about treating me well but they don't want to budge on this one. Will going to GM get me anything other than more angry? To top it off they say that if the first repair wasn't under warranty then this one would be free because it is a lifetime part. Of course at the same time they noticed the oil cooler lines starting to seep again which were also replaced under warranty. Based on the amount of posts about these problems I can't believe that GM isn't doing something about them.
Also has anyone done the wheel bearing repair themselves? I see the part is about $160.00 so I was thinking about doing it myself. Is it a hard repair? How about the front ball joint? (they tell me that is loose as well) I was going to get the Chilton's manual and see if that was in there.
Thanks,
Wayne
It was abou 5 months out of warranty
I will be making the long trip back down to the dealer where I bought it last November (300 miles one way). The service manager says that GM probably won't warranty the shimmey, although it has been a problem with the vehicle since the first warm day over 60 degrees. However, one bit of good news, the service manager did say that they would cover the engine oil cooler lines. So this discussion has been most helpful in getting some things warrantied that might not have been if I wasn't made aware of them.
Thanks for your help. Michelle
On the plus side, the engine runs great with no tune-ups, the transmission has been excellent, and has the SUV has survived 3 accidents. The engine is the best part of this SUV and could be the best in any mid SUV. Mine is running 7.61 sec 0 to 60! Amazing and get 19 mpg avg and 22 on the highway! I really drive this SUV hard on and off road. The low ground clearance is a problem and the skid plates/frame take a beating. I did not want to pay the price for a Toyota and still not sure I would. The 4runner would have cost me 10k more at the time and had a wimpy 3.4 V-6 (not acceptable).
I agree with you on the engine of the Blazer. Mine runs like a champ. Great power in a crunch, a little slow on the hills of Missouri, however, just hit the gas pedal and off it goes! I really like the push button 4 wheel drive! That was really great when we had all the snow here during the winter months.
I also have the rattling door trim pieces. I thought about doing the same thing that you discussed. How well did it work for you? All that rattling drives me nuts!
I also agree with you on the quality issue. I have had several repair issues both during the warranty period and still working on one in particular. However, I have to wonder with so many of them on the road, they can't all be bad.
I am really hoping that this will be the last trip to where I bought it and the rest will be routine maintenance. I am in real estate and must have a dependable vehicle. Take Care! God Bless! Michelle
I bought my wife a 2000 Jimmy (62000 miles) 40 days ago. On day one I complained about a vibration at 60mph and higher. They put on new tires and said the problem was solved. It wasn't.
Took it back and they rotated and re balanced the tires, said the rest was normal because it is auto 4 wheel drive so the front drive shaft always turns and causes the vibration, shop foreman signed off on it again. I was not buying the excuse and asked the foreman to take a ride with me. After doing so he changed his mind and admitted it was not normal.I put it back in the shop for 6 days and they say they replaced the rear drive shaft fix a muffler hanger replaced a tranny mount and replaced the front right wheel bearing adjusted the drive angle checked all the wheels, U joints ball joints etc... They then told me that they pulled the front drive shaft and the vibration was still present. This tells me that the first excuse about it being caused by the auto 4 wheel drive was bull. Picked it up and to my surprised the shop fore again said it was fixed. It was not. I just wrote GMC a letter telling them about the situation and asking what do I have to do now. This is all covered under the 30day dealer warranty so it is all free, and will continue to be.
I should have bought an explorer
they also changed the oil coolant lines because of a leak.
So, do you think I would have some recourse if I did write GM? By reading some of the other articles, it sounded like GM just didn't care and wouldn't do anything.
I put my previous repair order to the dealer in writing which explained the shaking, and while it was still under GM's certified warranty.
Michelle
Anything you can test or do to help solve the problem will help the dealer to find the cause.
On this forum, I was told that GM would replace the upper ball joints no charge. I had the upper ball joints replaced and still have the vibration.
Also on this forum, I was told that it is possible to get reimbursed for the lower ball joints. I called GM cust serv and they were not much help. I called the dealer and they said they would reimburse me. What a shocker.
I'm going to see if a different dealer can fix the vibration/shimmy. I will first try the diagnostics discussed above. The thing that bothers me is that the dealer never tested the vehicle after proclaiming it fixed with the lower and then upper ball joints.
You might want to go to alldata.com and get the Technical Service bulletins for your specific year model, which may shed some light on what is going on with your Blazer.
I also made it clear that this was an ongoing problem and that I expected GM to cover the repair. We will see how far that gets me. I also made it clear that if they were unable to fix the vehicle, that I was prepared to talk with the owner of the dealership to take the vehicle back. I did not spend this kind of money to have an uncomfortable and shakey vehicle. I must say though, the dealership that I bought mine at is in Oklahoma, and they have been really good about trying to make things right. If people can get over the Blazer/Jimmy problems and want a different kind of Chevy/GMC, I would highly recommend this dealer. They have really tried to do everything in their power to fix this vehicle. Hopefully, this time will be the last time and I can return to a routine maintenance schedule for the vehicle.
Good luck on your endeavors with your 96 Blazer. Michelle
Transaxle is a FWD term. For front axel drive the Blazer has a front differential, drive shaft, and half shafts.
GMCDriver - If you haven't done it, I would bring your Jimmy to the dealer to have them check the ball joints. If they will replace the uppers for free then why not do it. Sorry but I don't know which years are most affected. Maybe someone else here does.
The dealer trip thus far has been unsuccessful on repairing the shudder/vibration. they did the test I suggested, however, all was found to be as it should. They did replace both engine oil cooler lines, which the service manager said that both of them were leaking. Could have cost me a new engine with only 53000K. He replaced them with the new type engine oil cooler lines.
Apparently the service manager when he drove home and to work for 2 days did not seem to find anything that was not as he put it "normal" for a four wheel drive. I sent him an e-mail that gave him even further specifics to duplicate the problem. I knew that I should have taken him out for test drive when I arrived with the vehcile.
At this point I am seriously frustrated that they are unable to find and fix the problem. It is still at the dealer, not sure when I will be picking it up. I have recently started looking at what I used to drive, a Nissan Pathfinder. Maybe I will trade the Blazer for one of those. Not sure yet. Michelle
Has ANYONE been able to fix this? I have had an alignment, the upper ball joints are good, idler arm replaced, new brakes and rotors, and all differential and transfer case fluids replaced.
Could it be an engine or transmission mount? I also (sometimes) get a hard shift into reverse. I had a 90 Taurus that did some funny things (vibrations at speed, hard shifting, stalling) until the engine mounts were replaced.
As for a solution, as to date, there has not been one. If they finally figure out what is wrong with mine, I will most certainly pass it along to the rest of you.
Wish me luck! God Bless! Michelle
Good luck!
The depreciation is tough to deal with. I was offered $5000 for a trade in and $6000 from Carmax. I do feel sorry for the sucker who ends up with this washing machine. I can't sell it to someone myself, even though I know I can get $8000 - $9000. Provided they don't take it for a test drive on the highway.
I just bought a Dodge Grand Caravan ES. Lists for $37,000, got it for $29,900 (invoice -$3500 rebate, -$1200 DVD rebate). DVD, heated leather seats, moonroof...
Thanks to all of you who helped me in the past. Without your help I would never have gotten the upper or lower ball joints fixed and who knows what could have happened.
My wife is expecting our first kid and it's time to get something (hopefully) safe and reliable.
I have been reading the messages here and am looking for help!
My brakes where shuttering at low speeds, so I brought the my 99 Jimmy in. They came back and said it was the left front wheel bearing causing the ABS to short and pulsate the brakes. I don't hear any noises or hums as others have said here on the board.
Could this be the problem? If so, I want to replace BOTH of them myself. How difficult and where should I buy the parts. I would like to have the best aftermarket parts possible.
Any help is appreciated.
He takes good care of the vehicle - just had the oil and transmission serviced.
He said he had the vehicle in for various repairs and service over the years he owned the vehicle.
He also said there was a hint of electrical problems that the service people could never correct.
Could the chronic oil line leaking problem reported on this thread be a factor?
Any other sad stories of Blazers blazing? His insurance company is looking into possible causes. We are hoping he can get a better settlement than simply an insurance declaration that the vehicle is a total loss with the usual book value declaration.
He's a practicing Veterinarian who takes good care of dogs and cats. Also, with marriage approaching, this loss is not part of his budget.
I have not heard of wheel bearings causing a shutter via the ABS system.
When they replaced the right front bearing on my 2000 Blazer, there was no noise at all. Just a lot of shaking around corners and on the highway.
My 2000 Blazer had both of them leaking, and mine only had a small amount of oil near the connection when I checked them. It is cheaper to pay for the oil cooler lines(if you have to) than to pay for a new engine. Same with the ball joint issue.
I do remember someone saying on this post that it appeared that the vehicles in the northern states were covered, while that person's was not due to being in the warmer area of the US. Since you are in Canada, I would think that you would classify as a Northern area.
Also, look into Alldata.com. They have many (not all) of the Technical Service Bulletins on your particular vehicle and year model, which can help if you go to the dealer.
Good Luck! Michelle!
Also, I noticed the windshield wiper circuit board was recalled for the 1997 Blazers. I have been having similar problems in my 98. The windshield wipers have a mind of thier own much of the time. They will speed up on their own or wipe up to 20 times after a simple mist (should only be 3 or 4 wipes). Anyone know if the 98's are going to be included in this recall or where to go to find out?
Tom