I would agree about the carsdirect.com method, but in my case, our local dealer offered much more of a deal. Western NY area is offering $6500 off MSRP. You can get a new LS 4x4 for around $21800. Last month the deal was a bit better at $5000 off dealer invoice ($26645), which was the deal we got. We got ours for $21645. We checked out every SUV in this class, but the rodeo can't be beat for the price. Tons of power, very smooth & fairly quiet ride, and overall the vehicle feels much more solid than many competing models. There may be better SUV's out there, but you definately get the most for your dollar with the rodeo.
I forgot where I ordered mine, a place that sells multiple manufacturer manuals too. Someone help. Also, most auto stores have service manuals for these vehicles in the racks.
The filler plug on mine is on the pan, just in a a corner. Some years have it on the side though which would make the whole process easier.
Just wanted to share my recent experience with one of the Denver Isuzu dealer (actually that's one of the only 3 Isuzu dealers we have around here).
I dropped off my Rodeo at around noon two days ago for an oil change and my outside mirror control unit wasn't working right: instead of being 8-way it become 7-way with upper right not working. I called them 20 min before they close to find out if they even got a chance to work on it and was told that the car is ready and they just forgot to call me back. The oil change was done, but the control unit was not fixed because "They were able to adjust it any way they wanted to." When I asked the service manager to get out of his office and try moving it in "south-east" direction he said that all the techs are gone and I can leave it if I wanted to for another day, but "they were able to adjust it any way they wanted to." I just gave up and asked them to lock the key inside so that I can pick it up later on. Next morning, I found a huge oil stain on the garage floor... Since the oil level was fine, I thought that they just forgot to take the rubber pan off before draining oil and there was some extra oil in it. However, when I was leaving work that day, I found another stain on the parking lot and took it back and left it overnight asking them to finish it up by noon. They, of course, never called me back and when I called them at around 1 p.m. the service manager said that the technician was gone for lunch and there is no way to find out the status. The technicians, apparently, have pretty long lunches over there, since he left me a message that the car is ready at almost 4 p.m. I called to find out what the problem was but couldn't get any straight answer. They way I understood it from his mumbling is that they either forgot to replace the gasket on the drain plug or used incorrect one. Since this is not the first problem I have with that dealer, I really starting to get a feeling that they just use my car to train their technicians for oil changes and this time, they had whole bunch of high school drop-outs to train :-)
If anybody is in Denver area and want to find out which Isuzu dealer I strongly recommend to avoid, let me know :-)))
We finally picked up a 2002 Rodeo LS 4x4 for 24K out the door (includes tax, title, doc, etc) AND also got the 0% 60 month financing. Great value for the money, plus the car came with bug deflector and cargo tray as extra bonus. Great truck, thanks again for the help guys.
I got mine LS for 24K + taxes, title, doc etc. with my financing a year ago. That was 2001 of course. And it only took me 4 hours to negotiate :-) They originally wanted over $28K.
Hi Everyone, I have a 97 Honda Passport which is the same as the Isuzu Rodeo with a Honda badge. It has 87,000 miles and my old extended warranty expired last month. I can get another extended warranty for 24,000 miles or 24 months for $775.00 with 0 deductible $675.00 with $100 deductible. It covers Powertrain, (Engine, fuel pump, trans, transfer unit 4x4, drive axles, drive shaft) Steering, Electrical, Fuel Inj., Cooling system, Air conditioning, Front suspension, Brakes, ABS, Seals and Gaskets, Car Rental, travel expenses. I'm planning to keep the truck for a while. I also keep it in good shape and maintenance schedule covered. If I buy it, I will be covered for 111,000 miles. What do you guys think? Should I just go with faith that nothing major should happen or go for safe? Is that too much price? I can't get 36/36 anymore coz of the mileage. thanks in advance to all the response. Jspikey...
I just picked up my new 2002 Rodeo LS 2wd without running boards. Though I'd get them later. The dealership is charging $389.00 for the boards and $105.oo to install them. I have check out partsauto.com and they are cheaper, but I am wondering if I could install them myself? Has anyone done this with little trouble?
I have a 98 2wd v6 rodeo, today when I started the car the check engine light came on. Does anyone know the most common reason why the light turns on? I know it could be 02 sensor, plugs, and other stuff..but did any of you had that happen to you, and why. If its something simple as plugs then I will not take to the dealer to have it checked..but I guess there is no way of knowing why still I have it checked.
The number one reason the light goes on is due to a lose gas cap. To test this you need to clear the codes from the computer. This is done by disconnecting the battery for 15 or so minutes. Then give you cap a good twist 5-7 clicks and wait a few days to see if the CEL comes back on. If not then you other problems. most CEL on Isuzu is do to something wrong in the emissions. O2 sensor would be the next best bet (problem is that you have 4 of them).
If all else fails (the light comes back on) I heard that Pep boys or checkers or the like is offering free coding reading (normal cost to read the codes is 70.00) Best of luck! -Ryan
You can do a do a lower profile tire, but I recommend that you keep the overall height the same...for example a 245/60R18 is about the same size as 245/70R16. You will have less tire, with light rims you can reduce the overall unsprung weight. Changing the tire diameter will effect the power delivery, gear ratio, etc. So if you really want to change size, you should do some homework on tires and calculating sizes, etc.
is too narrow. I'd not suggest that. The stockers are not LT tires as far as I know. I'd go with something like the Pirelli Scorpion ST that is a good street tire.
Thank you for you help on the Engine light, it did go away after I drove for a few miles. Next thing is, if you guys remember we had a post, an article from AutoNews saying that the brakes computer or something would be upgraded. Now I took mine to the dealer, showed them the article and they still refuse to do it, reason : " we did not hear of any or such recall or upgrade". Did any of you had problems replacing them?
Thanks paisan, I called Isuzu they said the recall will be available late this fall and that my car is included in the recall. Also my Front right suspension squeaks .. any clue?( shocks are good)
So did you ever get the warranty? I am in the same boat. I have about 5000 miles left on my drive train. Could you send me some info on where to buy the extended warranty. I believe it is through a broker, correct? Thanks for your help.
Hi all :-) I'm new here & hoping for some good "pros & cons" on a possible purchase of a 97 Rodeo. Test drove today, everything seems okay, a little loud in first gear, but that may be me, present car is Civic SI, so I'll have to adjust my shifting. The only real problem I found was when I took it down a dirt road, the rear window rattles loudly. The owner lives in the city, so she wasn't aware of this, but I'm out in the counrty, so this could be an issue (and yes, it was shut tightly).
The Rodeo is a 4-cyl. standard with 2WD, has 66K miles, and seems to be in good condition. We've gotten down to $6100, is this a good deal? Most of the posts I've read indicate the '98 was a problem, haven't seen much on 97's.
We're going back Tuesday, any advise before then ?
Make sure it is closed all the way. I had a '97 and if you didn't slam it all the way down it would latch but not fully latch closed and you could get rattle. Also if it has the exterior tire carrier same issue, it will close but will rattle badly if not closed fully/properly.
My 1999 Rodeo LS 4WD has developed a major engine problem. Something about a broken rod. The dealer says the solution is a new engine. They quoted me about $10,000 for the parts and labor. I was hoping this would be a warranty repair. But, I was told that my powertrain warranty is only valid until 60,000 miles. I have 60,200! The dealer told me that the factory rep will be in tomorrow and will examine the case and make a determination if they will fix it under the warranty.
The really sad part is that I still owe about $6,000 on the car. If the dealer won't fix it, it's going to be might painful to make those last few payments while I don't have the use of the car. Anybody got any suggestions on what to do if the factory rep decides not to play nice? Would bursting into tears help?
I hope they will honor the warranty, they should. Maybe you can justify that you spent at least 200 miles back and forth to the dealer getting it serviced!
If not, there are options. I had my engine rebuilt after swamping it. Fortunately insurance covered it, about $7K. Before I got word that it was covered, I shopped around, one option was putting in an old chevy 350, but trans and computer work would have been 10K. I found a place that would take it out, send it out and have it rebuilt for around $2500. I bargained with the shop and got the price down $1000 from $3500. Wait and see, and then start shopping around, there are places that rebuild engines cheaper than 10,000.
Well, the factory rep from Isuzu has offered a compromise. He wants me to pay 30-percent while they pay the other 70-percent. I suppose that's not exactly what I was hoping for, but its better than nothing.
Even at 30 %, you still would be paying $3,000. Someone else already posted that other shops can do the job for $2,500. You are definitely getting screwed. I would keep fighting up as high as I needed to, to get your out of pocket under $500.
Now on a more personal note. My 95 Rodeo is acting like it is time for a new clutch. Anyone done the work on a Rodeo b4. I have done several clutches, so I am not all that worried. I would just like to know if there is anything special to do or watch out for on the Rodeo. Thanks, Chris.
I recently purchased a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo LS with 37k on the clock. The owner's manual is missing. When I look up reviews on this model, I notice that standard features included: 6-CD changer as well as an anti-theft remote alarm/device. My vehicle has had the CD apparatus taken out. The tape deck/radio remains intact and there are buttons for a CD player,so it must have been there at one stage...dealer says he can order one for me. Regarding the anti-theft device...although it's supposed to be standard, dealer charged me $695 for it. The type installed gives a shrill beep twice after one turns the ignition and won't start prior to that. Is this the standard system and did I just get ripped off. How can I remedy this? Any worthwhile comments very much appreciated. Thx.
The alarm sounds like an aftermarket alarm, so $695 was probably for that one.
As for the 6-CD changer I'm not sure it was std on the particular trim you bought. All of the stereos are setup with buttons for CD players even if they don't come with em (my '97 Rodeo had CD buttons, but no CD player) Also if you bought it used, they *could* take out the 6-cd changer, it's not like you were buying a new car.
In regards to your '01 Rodeo LS, the CD player is an option, not standard equipment, as my wife has a '01 LS as well with no options. The factory radio does have a CD button on it, but you have to add a changer that is compatible. As to the anti theft system, that is standard on a '01 LS, so I don't understand why did not come with your vehicle. Our LS has 17,000 miles and no problems.
From the sounds of her alarm it may be an "upgraded" alarm system. I know my buddy got an upgraded one in his 00 Trooper LS, I stuck with the stock alarm in the 00 Trooper LS.
My factory alarm on '01 LS doesn't do that... $650 is way too much for an aftermarket one - you might want to request the paper work to make sure they put an OEM one there. As far as CD-Changer, LS comes with single CD as far as I remember. When I bought mine, I didn't really have any choices rather than going with CD changer which I didn't need much, but dealer said that even though they come with single CD by default, it's very hard to get them without changer. That's exactly the reason why there are not too many LS's with single CD over there.
Technical Service bulletin. You may of bought your truck new off the lot, but your Dealership would of sent it off to a window tint place first.
The main problem is that cars today are sealed so tightly (try closing your door with and without a window open) that as the hot air expands in the car it has no where to go (if all the windows are closed). So over time if there is a weak point (scored glass) it will put stress on it. Solution? Open open a window (just a bit) to allow the hot air out.
For the TSB check www.alldata.com here is what I found: IB00-S009 FEB 00 Tailgate glass - Breakage After Tint Film Installation
So if you still have some warrenty left and if it was installed by the dealer (or else where before you bought it) then take it to the dealer and with the TSB and say, "I would like my free window please"
I might be wrong, but I was under the impression that TSB related issues should be fixed free of charge even if the warranty had expired. Or is that only the case with recalls?
I think most manufacturers/dealers look at TSBs as just being suggested fixes for common problems, based largely on feedback from the mechanics who work on them and then complain or offer suggested fixes or procedures to the engineers.
Some manufacturers prefer to limit access to TSBs; one reason (supposedly) being so the owners won't go to the service manager with a list of things to be fixed when their car may not be broken (often the TSB may only apply to a limited number of a certain model, but "informed" customers will insist on an unneeded fix).
Whether something gets fixed after the warranty expires depends a lot on the dealer and manufacturer. Having a complaint on record should help in that regard, and a TSB on point is good extra ammo, but there are no guarantees.
Some people like to track the TSBs closely so they can mention a problem to the dealer at a regular service (within the warranty period), and when the dealer says they can't reproduce the problem, mention that they read that there was a TSB out that dealt with it, and please research it. Then they're more likely to get the fix, even though they were fibbing about the problem.
HELLO EVERYONE. BEEN A LONG TIME VISITER OF THIS CHAT. I JUST BAUGHT MY 2002 A FEW MONTHS AGO AND AM VERY HAPPY WITH IT. I'M IN THE VA BEACH AREA AND AM CURRENTLY IN THE MILITARY.
I JUST WANTED EVERYONE TO KNOW THAT I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY RODEO. I'VE OWNED TWO OTHER SUVS, 2001 FORD EXPLORER SPORT, AND A 99 LANDROVER DISCOVERY. I HAD TROUBLE WITH BOTH OF THEM. I ENJOY KNOWING THAT I CAN GO TO MY TRUCK EVERY MORNING AND KNOW THAT IT WILL START AND GET ME TO WHERE I NEED TO GO. I HAD HERD SO MANY GOOD THINGS ABOUT RODEOS. I ALSO HAVE A FEW FRIENDS WITH RODEOS.
SO FAR I HAVE REPLACED THE STANDERD STEEL WHEELS WITH FACTORY ALLOYS. THEY LOOK BETTER AND ARE EASY TO CLEAN AND TAKE CARE OF. I HAVE TINTED ALL THE WINDOWS, AND HAD A PIONEER PREMIER CD PLAYER INSTALLED. I ALSO HAD KEYLESS ENTRY ADDED.
MY NEXT PROJECT IS GOING TO BE THE RIDE QUALITY. I TOO THINK IT IS TERRABLE. I SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON THESE BOARDS TRYING TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF SHOCKS AND I HAVE DECIDED TO GO WITH MONRO MATIC PLUS. I RECIEVED THEM FROM A-1 SHOCKS AND PLAN ON INSTALLING THEM IN A FEW DAYS. I WILL LET EVERYONE KNOW WHAT I THINK OF THEM SOON.
I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY TRUCK OVER ALL, ITS A GOOD TRUCK.
I ALSO WANTED EVERYONE TO KNOW HOW MUCH I APPRECIATE ALL THE TECH STUFF AND GOOD ADVISE. IF I EVER HAVE A PROBLEM, THIS WILL BE MY FIRST STOP. THANKS
How is everyone? Just wanted to update all of you on the instalation of the monro matic pluses.
I'm in the military here in va beach and on every base they have a hobbie shop where people can bring thier cars or trucks in and work on them. It's a fully functional shop. They have everything one might need.
Anyway, a friend and I went over there and rented a stall today. It took us only about an hour or so to put all four shocks on.
I am not that good with cars. I know enough to get me by and I thaught it was easy. I did most of the work. My friend just was there to help if I needed it. I think anyone with a good set of tools can do this them selves.
You will need a set of metric wrenches, A floor jack and some jack stands to be safe. You will also need a big and small cressant wrench.
On all four shocks the top nut will come off easy if you hold the top of the shaft with the cressant wrench so the shaft doesn't spin while trying to remove the nut because it will turn.
You will need the big cressant wrench for the bottom nut because it is very tight. It should come off with some force. If not, just use an impact gun with a socket. The shock should come right out after that.
I used all the stock hard ware because it seemed more beefy than the monroes. I did need to use the monro nuts on the top shaft of all four shocks because the stock nut had a different thread pattern and you do not want to strip the threads of the shocks.
The rears were a little harder just because you have to lay on your back and it's a little tighter of a space. I used a shop lamp to shed some light on the picture on the rears.
Just remember, use the monroe nuts and not the stock nuts that came off your truck for all four, you could strip the threads on the shaft of the shocks and that means NEW SHOCKS.
Oh yea I also want everyone to know I did not remove any tires. I did it with all four tires on. You can get to each front shock by turning the wheel in either direction so its out of your way.
I hope I didn't ramble on, I just wanted anyone who is looking to replace thier shocks that it can be done your self. You don't need any fancy shop or tools, just the ones i listed obove. I also want to let you all now that You don't have to be an expert anyone can do this. Save yourself the money. You will feel so much better about doing it too. Just make sure to be safe and use the jack stands.
Oh yea, for people who don't know if they make shocks for 2002 rodeos, any part # for 98 rodeos and up will work. I orderd for the 2000 rodeo. Just ask them for latest year they have for rodeos and i think it's 2000.
Thanks again for listening and I hope I can help in anyway possible to improve the ride of our rodeos. Mine made a world of a difference.
I bought a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo in Houston dealer. There service department leaves lots to be desired. I guess, who is the best Isuzu dealer for a GREAT service department? I'm starting to feel, that I bought a "generic" brand car... and now I'm stuck with "generic" service. Are there any great Isuzu dealers out there?
Hi all, me again with another question... are the "scheduled maintenace" checks the dealer recommends a "must do." I get the feeling they are more of a money maker for them, and not to keep the Rodeo running well. I mean they want $300 - $500 every 5,000 miles. My GOD, I should have just bought a used car with no warranty if I'm pumping that much money into it. Thoughts?
Thanks Steve, that did indeed answer my questions. I suggest ALL others who are being asked to spend hundreds of dollars on "scheduled maintenance" by their dealers check this out... it will save you money and time... not to mention the satisfacation of telling your so-called "service advisor" to back off. Again, thanks, Steve.
Comments
The filler plug on mine is on the pan, just in a a corner. Some years have it on the side though which would make the whole process easier.
Ziemann
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
I dropped off my Rodeo at around noon two days ago for an oil change and my outside mirror control unit wasn't working right: instead of being 8-way it become 7-way with upper right not working. I called them 20 min before they close to find out if they even got a chance to work on it and was told that the car is ready and they just forgot to call me back. The oil change was done, but the control unit was not fixed because "They were able to adjust it any way they wanted to." When I asked the service manager to get out of his office and try moving it in "south-east" direction he said that all the techs are gone and I can leave it if I wanted to for another day, but "they were able to adjust it any way they wanted to." I just gave up and asked them to lock the key inside so that I can pick it up later on. Next morning, I found a huge oil stain on the garage floor... Since the oil level was fine, I thought that they just forgot to take the rubber pan off before draining oil and there was some extra oil in it. However, when I was leaving work that day, I found another stain on the parking lot and took it back and left it overnight asking them to finish it up by noon. They, of course, never called me back and when I called them at around 1 p.m. the service manager said that the technician was gone for lunch and there is no way to find out the status. The technicians, apparently, have pretty long lunches over there, since he left me a message that the car is ready at almost 4 p.m. I called to find out what the problem was but couldn't get any straight answer. They way I understood it from his mumbling is that they either forgot to replace the gasket on the drain plug or used incorrect one. Since this is not the first problem I have with that dealer, I really starting to get a feeling that they just use my car to train their technicians for oil changes and this time, they had whole bunch of high school drop-outs to train :-)
If anybody is in Denver area and want to find out which Isuzu dealer I strongly recommend to avoid, let me know :-)))
-mike
I got mine LS for 24K + taxes, title, doc etc. with my financing a year ago. That was 2001 of course. And it only took me 4 hours to negotiate :-) They originally wanted over $28K.
Congratulations on your LS!
I have a 97 Honda Passport which is the same as the Isuzu Rodeo with a Honda badge. It has 87,000 miles and my old extended warranty expired last month. I can get another extended warranty for 24,000 miles or 24 months for $775.00 with 0 deductible $675.00 with $100 deductible. It covers Powertrain, (Engine, fuel pump, trans, transfer unit 4x4, drive axles, drive shaft) Steering, Electrical, Fuel Inj., Cooling system, Air conditioning, Front suspension, Brakes, ABS, Seals and Gaskets, Car Rental, travel expenses. I'm planning to keep the truck for a while. I also keep it in good shape and maintenance schedule covered. If I buy it, I will be covered for 111,000 miles. What do you guys think? Should I just go with faith that nothing major should happen or go for safe? Is that too much price? I can't get 36/36 anymore coz of the mileage. thanks in advance to all the response. Jspikey...
If all else fails (the light comes back on) I heard that Pep boys or checkers or the like is offering free coding reading (normal cost to read the codes is 70.00) Best of luck!
-Ryan
-mike
What do you guys thing??
-mike
You can look in the "recall" section of edmunds and pull the recall #, also could call Isuzu and give them to VIN # and find out.
-mike
So did you ever get the warranty? I am in the same boat. I have about 5000 miles left on my drive train. Could you send me some info on where to buy the extended warranty. I believe it is through a broker, correct? Thanks for your help.
email: lookie4me@yahoo.com
The Rodeo is a 4-cyl. standard with 2WD, has 66K miles, and seems to be in good condition. We've gotten down to $6100, is this a good deal? Most of the posts I've read indicate the '98 was a problem, haven't seen much on 97's.
We're going back Tuesday, any advise before then ?
-mike
http://forums.vmag.com/suvrodeo0300/messages/9229.html
BUT I CAN SEEM TO FIND INTAKE MANIFOLDS FOR MY POWER PLANT; DOES ANYONE HAVE INFO OR SUGGESTION.
-mike
The really sad part is that I still owe about $6,000 on the car. If the dealer won't fix it, it's going to be might painful to make those last few payments while I don't have the use of the car. Anybody got any suggestions on what to do if the factory rep decides not to play nice? Would bursting into tears help?
If not, there are options. I had my engine rebuilt after swamping it. Fortunately insurance covered it, about $7K. Before I got word that it was covered, I shopped around, one option was putting in an old chevy 350, but trans and computer work would have been 10K. I found a place that would take it out, send it out and have it rebuilt for around $2500. I bargained with the shop and got the price down $1000 from $3500. Wait and see, and then start shopping around, there are places that rebuild engines cheaper than 10,000.
-mike
Now on a more personal note. My 95 Rodeo is acting like it is time for a new clutch. Anyone done the work on a Rodeo b4. I have done several clutches, so I am not all that worried. I would just like to know if there is anything special to do or watch out for on the Rodeo.
Thanks, Chris.
-mike
As for the 6-CD changer I'm not sure it was std on the particular trim you bought. All of the stereos are setup with buttons for CD players even if they don't come with em (my '97 Rodeo had CD buttons, but no CD player) Also if you bought it used, they *could* take out the 6-cd changer, it's not like you were buying a new car.
-mike
-mike
As far as CD-Changer, LS comes with single CD as far as I remember. When I bought mine, I didn't really have any choices rather than going with CD changer which I didn't need much, but dealer said that even though they come with single CD by default, it's very hard to get them without changer. That's exactly the reason why there are not too many LS's with single CD over there.
The main problem is that cars today are sealed so tightly (try closing your door with and without a window open) that as the hot air expands in the car it has no where to go (if all the windows are closed). So over time if there is a weak point (scored glass) it will put stress on it. Solution? Open open a window (just a bit) to allow the hot air out.
For the TSB check www.alldata.com
here is what I found:
IB00-S009 FEB 00 Tailgate glass - Breakage After Tint Film Installation
So if you still have some warrenty left and if it was installed by the dealer (or else where before you bought it) then take it to the dealer and with the TSB and say, "I would like my free window please"
good luck!
Some manufacturers prefer to limit access to TSBs; one reason (supposedly) being so the owners won't go to the service manager with a list of things to be fixed when their car may not be broken (often the TSB may only apply to a limited number of a certain model, but "informed" customers will insist on an unneeded fix).
Whether something gets fixed after the warranty expires depends a lot on the dealer and manufacturer. Having a complaint on record should help in that regard, and a TSB on point is good extra ammo, but there are no guarantees.
Some people like to track the TSBs closely so they can mention a problem to the dealer at a regular service (within the warranty period), and when the dealer says they can't reproduce the problem, mention that they read that there was a TSB out that dealt with it, and please research it. Then they're more likely to get the fix, even though they were fibbing about the problem.
food for thought...
Steve, Host
I JUST WANTED EVERYONE TO KNOW THAT I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY RODEO. I'VE OWNED TWO OTHER SUVS, 2001 FORD EXPLORER SPORT, AND A 99 LANDROVER DISCOVERY. I HAD TROUBLE WITH BOTH OF THEM. I ENJOY KNOWING THAT I CAN GO TO MY TRUCK EVERY MORNING AND KNOW THAT IT WILL START AND GET ME TO WHERE I NEED TO GO. I HAD HERD SO MANY GOOD THINGS ABOUT RODEOS. I ALSO HAVE A FEW FRIENDS WITH RODEOS.
SO FAR I HAVE REPLACED THE STANDERD STEEL WHEELS WITH FACTORY ALLOYS. THEY LOOK BETTER AND ARE EASY TO CLEAN AND TAKE CARE OF. I HAVE TINTED ALL THE WINDOWS, AND HAD A PIONEER PREMIER CD PLAYER INSTALLED. I ALSO HAD KEYLESS ENTRY ADDED.
MY NEXT PROJECT IS GOING TO BE THE RIDE QUALITY. I TOO THINK IT IS TERRABLE. I SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON THESE BOARDS TRYING TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF SHOCKS AND I HAVE DECIDED TO GO WITH MONRO MATIC PLUS. I RECIEVED THEM FROM A-1 SHOCKS AND PLAN ON INSTALLING THEM IN A FEW DAYS. I WILL LET EVERYONE KNOW WHAT I THINK OF THEM SOON.
I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY TRUCK OVER ALL, ITS A GOOD TRUCK.
I ALSO WANTED EVERYONE TO KNOW HOW MUCH I APPRECIATE ALL THE TECH STUFF AND GOOD ADVISE. IF I EVER HAVE A PROBLEM, THIS WILL BE MY FIRST STOP. THANKS
Incidentally, most folks tend to reserve capital letters only for emphasis.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
I'm in the military here in va beach and on every base they have a hobbie shop where people can bring thier cars or trucks in and work on them. It's a fully functional shop. They have everything one might need.
Anyway, a friend and I went over there and rented a stall today. It took us only about an hour or so to put all four shocks on.
I am not that good with cars. I know enough to get me by and I thaught it was easy. I did most of the work. My friend just was there to help if I needed it. I think anyone with a good set of tools can do this them selves.
You will need a set of metric wrenches, A floor jack and some jack stands to be safe. You will also need a big and small cressant wrench.
On all four shocks the top nut will come off easy if you hold the top of the shaft with the cressant wrench so the shaft doesn't spin while trying to remove the nut because it will turn.
You will need the big cressant wrench for the bottom nut because it is very tight. It should come off with some force. If not, just use an impact gun with a socket. The shock should come right out after that.
I used all the stock hard ware because it seemed more beefy than the monroes. I did need to use the monro nuts on the top shaft of all four shocks because the stock nut had a different thread pattern and you do not want to strip the threads of the shocks.
The rears were a little harder just because you have to lay on your back and it's a little tighter of a space. I used a shop lamp to shed some light on the picture on the rears.
Just remember, use the monroe nuts and not the stock nuts that came off your truck for all four, you could strip the threads on the shaft of the shocks and that means NEW SHOCKS.
Oh yea I also want everyone to know I did not remove any tires. I did it with all four tires on. You can get to each front shock by turning the wheel in either direction so its out of your way.
I hope I didn't ramble on, I just wanted anyone who is looking to replace thier shocks that it can be done your self. You don't need any fancy shop or tools, just the ones i listed obove. I also want to let you all now that You don't have to be an expert anyone can do this. Save yourself the money. You will feel so much better about doing it too. Just make sure to be safe and use the jack stands.
Oh yea, for people who don't know if they make shocks for 2002 rodeos, any part # for 98 rodeos and up will work. I orderd for the 2000 rodeo. Just ask them for latest year they have for rodeos and i think it's 2000.
Thanks again for listening and I hope I can help in anyway possible to improve the ride of our rodeos. Mine made a world of a difference.
Thanks.
Steve, Host