Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

alcan · November 2002

The 2 U.S. spec police package cars we have came equipped with Goodyear RS-A's, but they're not much of a tire. Came in 15th out of 20 high performance all season tires surveyed. Go with the Bridgestone Potenza RE950's, you'll love 'em:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/hpas.jsp

riswami · November 2002

understand why you would recommend a performance tire and a speed rated tire for a Taurus. Seems to me you'd be paying for something you'll never use.Checked in my latest Car and Driver and didn't see the price of these tires for a Taurus in Tirerack's add.

Then again I never heard of police tires?

drmurdoc · November 2002

I have a 2000 Taurus. Ever since I bought it the blower motor has squeaked/chirped. I was very soft at first, but now is quite loud. Only appears on the first two blower speeds. I know have 40K+ and it will not be covered under the warranty. I have done some searching on the web and found reference to similar problems in older Taurus (92-97?). I see the following comments:

"198694 A squeak or chirp coming from the blower motor can be stopped by installing an upgraded blower motor with improve198694A squeak or chirp coming from the blower motor can be stopped by installing an upgraded blower motor with improved brush-to-commutator friction.d brush-to-commutator friction."

I also see that a new blower motor could be $495 (according to another post).

I know I can take the blower motor out, anyway I can solve (electric motor oil?)

Any thoughts?

vince4 · November 2002

My 2000 has the same problem. It's pretty quiet so I can ignore it most of the time. I assumed I had a bad bearing or something but now see that it is a more widespread problem.

The motor doesn't cost $495 but I could see where labor would. Someone at work paid a dealer $650 to change the heater core on his 96.

Lube may help but I bet the noise comes back. Normally I'd say just buy a new motor but now I wonder if the new one wouldn't have the same problem. There isn't much choice beyond those two.

ehenness · November 2002

The Taurus does come with T rated tires from the factory. You should replace these with at least a T rated replacement tire to maintain the handling characteristics of the car (even if you don't plan to approach the speed rating). Speed ratings are partially dependent on the sidewall firmness and construction, and that affects ride and handling.

On the other hand, the Taurus has a fairly firm ride. If you go with an H-rated tire or higher, you may find that the ride has gotten very harsh. I've used H-rated tires on sedans with less firm rides/less able handling and they've made the car much more responsive. I stuck with the T rated tires for my Taurus since the ride and handling were fine to me.

(I got Bridgestone Turanza LS-T tires on the recommendation of a local tire shop. I wanted decent handling, long life, and good rain and snow traction. After 3000 miles, I am very satisfied. Try them--they come with a 30-day satisfaction guarantee; don't like 'em, Bridgestone credits you the price. They are rated for 80,000 miles of treadlife. They are a new-for 2002 tire, and are unrelated to Firestone tires, being made in Japan.)

ezaircon4jc · November 2002

My 96 Sable does the same thing. When I replaced the cabin air filter, the squeak went away. For the last 4 years I've used the squeak as notification that I need to replace the filter. That works fine, for me.

drmurdoc · November 2002

I had just replaced my cabin filter 3 months ago. On my Taurus, it is not related to the chirp. Any other ideas?

vince4 · November 2002

Hmm, that's interesting. My filter does need changing, I have a new one but haven't put it in. They could have made that job easier, my truck has a cabin filter and it's much more pleasant to change.

snowman · November 2002

My 2000 SES 33K had it's replacement. Chirping was gone. Dealer also changed some component in drive belt area ( could be pulley - My invoice is not with me now) this elimitated morning belt squeks. I think new gen. Tauruses have this issue.

strokeoluck · November 2002

I have a 2000 Taurus SE w/94,000 miles. Most of these miles have been highway miles and I've only had the brake pads changed once. However I've had the rotors turned a few times due to the steering wheel shaking when I apply the brakes. The shaking is worse when I hit the brakes after being in the 60-70+ mph range. And the harder I hit the brakes the more violent the shake is.

I live in the Detroit area and had a few Ford/Lear engineer guys in my car over the weekend. I showed them what it was doing and told them I planned to replace the rotors to see if that solved anything (this problem usually went away after grinding the rotors but would appear again in 3-5,000 miles). One of the guys said to forget it, that I would "never get rid of that problem w/the 2000 Taurus". He said it's a well-known problem w/recent model Taurus'. He even went on to say that many of them have a nasty shake - up to 1" of movement in the wheel - just driving at highway speeds.

Has anyone else experienced this problem or heard anything like this? I still plan on replacing the rotors to see if it gets better.

Thanks,
Rob

stantont · November 2002

Does the 2000 Taurus still use the "composite" rotors used on the early '90's models (the rotor itself is cast iron with a stamped steel "hat" section in the center)? If so, replace them with a pair of one-piece cast and machined rotors available from most aftermarket parts shops. I did that on my 1990 SHO. The original rotors were good for about 15,000 miles, then 10,000 after turning. I put in the one-piece cast rotors and they lasted 90,000 miles of mostly city driving. They are quite a bit heavier and stiffer, so can take quite a bit more heat before they start to warp.

Kirstie_H · November 2002

A reporter is looking to interview someone who's used a portable battery booster (a.k.a. jump boxes) to bail themselves or someone else out of a no-start situation. Why/how are these devices useful? When did you get it? Please send your responses and daytime contact information asap no later than Friday, November 22 to jfallon@edmunds.com.
Thanks!
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com

badgerfan · November 2002

I do not think that your shaking during braking is unsolvable. Usually it is is a sign of rotor warpage, but you may have another problem that causes repeated warpage, like maybe a caliper that is hung up and not retracting which might produce a slight amount of continuous friction drag, which could overheat a rotor. It may also be possible to damage rotors by high speed stops followed by parking the car, which gives the rotors no chance to cool using the self cooling provided by air circulation through the rotor from driving the car. I even read a "Car-Talk" item about someone who repeatedly washed his car right after high speed stops-spraying a hot rotor with cold water-caused repeated warping.

Shaking during driving without braking can be caused by tire problems-like out of round, unbalance, or other front end problems-maybe even alignment if it has caused tire cupping. Possibly some front suspension wear? I suggest you get a thorough front end inspection.

I don't know about rotor design cchanges-my old 90 Taurus went to 98,000 before I sold it and I had none of these problems, however the rotors were replaced once fairly early on due to a recall because rotors were failing early due to corrosion. My 2000 Taurus has been fine, but I only have 20,000 miles on it.

Usually rotors are only good for one or maybe two turnings as the rotor becomes too thin to turn any more.

vince4 · November 2002

I think I've finally fixed a nagging problem with my 2000 SE. When stopped the ventilation system would pull in engine compartment air which smelled oily. It was really bad for a few weeks after an oil change due to the drips. I already had the dealer put on a new passenger side cowl because the old one was warped but that didn't fix it. I then put more foam weather stripping between the top cowl and bottom half of the plastic fresh air inlet box, and added some more clamps to squeeze the two halves together. That didn't fix it. Finally I looked carefully at where the rubber gasket along the back of the hood actually contacted the cowl plastic and found that they don't line up well. In some areas the gasket was barely touching the cowl, the gasket contacts to far toward the front of the car. I put foam weather stripping down on the cowl exactly where the rubber gasket contacts to add more pressure and fill any gaps. Since then I haven't smelled oil at all. It's only been a few days but I think I would have smelled it by now. If any of you have this problem give it a try.

I had my rotors ground at 20k miles. I don't expect them to last too long. When they warp again I'll put on after market ones. I did that on my last car (Honda) after several factory sets and never had a problem again.

billt5 · November 2002

I have a 1999 Taurus and overnight the battery drains to a point were I have to recharge the battery in order to start the car. I have also replaced the battery, but it still dies. Has anybody seen or heard of this problem

vince4 · November 2002

You obviously have a partial short or a defective electronic part. This isn't too hard to track down if you are a technical type and have the service manual. Actually you can go far with just a multimeter. Without any of these tools you can at least check some obvious things.

Have you had any work done lately? Pinched wires are a common source of shorts.

Is the trunk light actually off?

Did something, like the radio, clock etc., stop working recently? It could be related.

You can pull fuses one at a time and see which one stops the problem. This is tedeous without a meter since you have to see every morning if you can start the car. Once you narrow it down to a circuit then unplug all the electronics on that circuit one at a time.

burdawg · November 2002

Are you sure that the battery isn't just losing it's charge overnight because it's going bad? If you have a voltmeter you could measure the voltage in the morning and see if it has dropped. After sitting overnight a good battery should be at 12.6V or very close to it. Also, if you have a voltmeter you can disconnect the battery and measure the resistance across the battery leads (make sure no lights are on, such as interior, underhood, or trunk). It should be very high.

rfdevil1 · November 2002

My first vist to this board. I have a 97 LX since new, It currently has 65k miles and the door open light comes on when its warmed up. This is annoying, especially at night b/c I have to pull the bulb in the dome. There are no open doors and the trunk is definitely closed. Anyone had this one?

Also, interesting sounds beginning to come from the powersteering when I turn right.

I also had the chirping in my blower for the first few years. It mysteriously stoped a while ago.

alcan · November 2002

The door ajar switches are integral with the door locks. The grease gets hard after a while, causing the switches to stick. Try opening the doors and liberally spraying the latch mechanisms with WD40 or equivalent. Might take a day or two for the switches to free up.

dan4365 · December 2002

I have noticed that oil is leaking onto my garage floor from underneath my car. Not a great deal of oil,but definitely leaking. Car has 86000 miles on it and runs really good. I have looked underneath and the oil seems to be coming from somewhere around the gasket area between the oil pan and the engine block, although it is really hard to tell for sure. Has anyone else had a similar problem and how did you fix it? I also smell burning oil when I have been driving at higher speeds (more heat buildup). I usually notice this when I stop the car or when I have the hood raised after driving for a while.
Any help in solving this problem would certainly be appreciated. THANKS!

ezaircon4jc · December 2002

Mine did the same thing. It turned out to be the oil gallery plugs. IIRC, it was around $100 to fix. Just to be sure, though, have the engine steam cleaned and have your shop put dye in the oil. They will easily find the leak with a black light.

dan4365 · December 2002

What does "IIRC" refer to?

vince4 · December 2002

A very common source of oil leak/seep is from the valve covers. I don't know if that engine is prone to this but it's common in general in higher mileage engines. The oil eventually makes it to the bottom of the engine so it may look like it came from there. I would try tightening the bolts on the valve covers and on the oil pan.

If the oil smell is coming in through the ventilation system, take a look at my post of a week or so ago.

alcan · December 2002

IIRC = if I remember correctly

strokeoluck · December 2002

Me again, as a reminder I have a 2000 Taurus. About six months ago we lost one set of keys (keys AND key fob). Over the weekend I realized that I left my only remaining set of keys in WI...and we live in MI. I tried calling the dealership to give them the vin # but they said that since there is a "passive anti-theft" chip in the key I'd have to have the car TOWED to the dealership and then they'd make me new keys. Instead I'm going to rent a car for the one day until my relatives send me the keys via overnight mail. The dealership said even if I bring the car in with the ONE set of keys they'd still have to reprogram the car to make me an extra set.

Question: Does this sound accurate? Dealership said it would be about $100...does anyone know of a cheaper way?

Thanks,
Rob

badgerfan · December 2002

I do not have my manual with me as I write this, but I believe you do need one working key in order to program new ones to work. I think there is a procedure in the manual to program. The car sensor/computer needs to be programmed to recognize a new key, but you have to have one good key in order to initiate the programming.

It has been a while, but I recall doing this myself with an extra key I bought when my Taurus was new. Check your manual. The keys them self are expensive due to the embedded chip, but it shouldn't cost you $100 if you do the programming yourself.

dtremblay · December 2002

I own a 2000 SEL with a DOHC V6 and 35k miles. Recently I have noticed the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. It doesn't matter if light or hard acceleration, the vehicle starts to move sluggishly from a stop then 2-4 seconds after acceleration the vehicles takes off rapidly. It appears as if the transmission is down shifting but how when starting in 1st gear. My only guess is that the transmission is stuck in 2nd gear when stopping and stays in 2nd gear on acceleration then down shifts to 1st gear shortly after. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any advice would be helpful.

vince4 · December 2002

It may seem too simple but have you checked the fluid level?

minghua7014 · December 2002

Hello, guys:

I am new to this discussion. I have a 2000 SE Wagon with 73k miles on it. I have two concerns about it. The first one is about the tire pressure. The front two tires recommend the max pressure of 44 psi, but the max pressure of the two rear tires cannot excess 35 psi. What type of tire is recommended to the Ford Taurus? Is there any problem I use different tires? Especially, does it affect the performance of the car? I usually keep the front tire pressure at 40-42psi, and the rear tire 32-34psi. What is the pressure I should keep in my case, especially in winter now? What about the rotation of the tires?

The second concern is about the gas mileage. After I did a transmission overhauls 3000 miles ago, it could reach 20/27. But after I just finished a maintenance, it can get only 18/24. What they did was just changing oil, replacing the air filter, fuel filters, and the plugs. Do you know the reason to cause this efficiency drop?

Thanks.

badgerfan · December 2002

There is a factory sticker on the drivers side door next to the latch that lists factory recommended pressures. The pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire is the maximum allowed by the tire manufacturer, while the Ford sticker is the pressure recommended by Ford for what they consider best ride,handling, etc.

It sounds like you have two different brands/styles of tire on your car front and rear.

Do not exceed the max allowed (cold measured-meaning non driven for several hours) pressure on the tire in any event. I tend to run mine about 4 PSI higher than what the Ford sticker recommends for my 2000 Taurus sedan(around 34-36 psi), to allow some margin for the inevitable slight leakage that all tires seem to show over time, and because I prefer a firmer ride-and more pressure will tend to make tires run cooler during high speed runs, which is better for the tire.

I cannot comment on your other problems, sounds like whoever did your tuneup/transmission service may have screwed something up. Do you notice any difference in performance? Also, be aware cold weather operation usually sucks your mileage down.

TMURF · December 2002

I have a 02 Taurus. Front passenger side seat belt is stuck - will neither extend or retract.
Although it's covered under warrenty, I'd rather fix it myself. Anyone else with this problem?
Is it a simple fix?

vince4 · December 2002

Take it to the dealer.

wevk · December 2002

Engine runs ok at drive speed but stalls at idle. This problem happened suddenly. One minute it was ok, the next it wasn't. I was told it might be an oxygen sensor but don't know. How do you test an oxygen sensor? Appreciate any help.

mullins87 · December 2002

Does it do it only when the tranny is in gear, or does it do it when the tranny is in neutral or park?

wevk · December 2002

It stall in both situations.

mullins87 · December 2002

The first and, IMO, most obvious place to look would be a stuck EGR valve. I assume this car has one. If it does, and it is stuck open, that will cause the car to die at idle but run fine otherwise. Other suggestions would include a vacuum leak, faulty Idle Air Control valve - well that's all this shadetree mechanic can think of off the top of my head. As far as the oxygen sensor goes, there's no way you can test that I'm aware of, you just have to replace it. A nine year old car with an original O2 sensor, couldn't hurt it to replace anyway.

Maybe "alcan" or someone else with more knowledge than myself will chime in.

wevk · December 2002

It stall in both situations.

wevk · December 2002

Thanks for the info.

jeffleav · December 2002

I've owned a Taurus since '95 and logged nearly 200k. Love'em. Best car I've owned. My 2002 sedan with 24,000 miles has manual climate control and I'm unable to keep the A/C compressor off except with the climate mode switch in the 11 o'clock position. Owner's manual and Haynes state that compressor should not operate below 50F outdoor air temp.

I seldom need the A/C on even at 70-80F with the sunroof open but I like run warm air on the windshield to defog in early Fall here in New England or circulate warm air around my feet in January. Can't do these things without the compressor running.

Proposed solution: If I add a switch into the 12 volt compressor clutch circuit and locate in below the dash for easy access, does anyone know of any side-effects that might occur? My '91 Explorer has a push button to on/off the compressor and it works great.

P.S. My factory warranty extends until June 2003. Should I suffer until then and make the modification after the warranty expires?

vince4 · December 2002

The compressor shouldn't run when the selector is set to vent only (11 o'clock) and floor heat only. Unfortunately it does run when the vent/floor setting is used, at least on my 2000. I don't like that and plan to install a switch just as you suggested. It will not have any ill effect as this is the only signal to the AC. Its not like you are cutting off something that is needed for another reason, the compressor will simply not get the signal to turn on.

It does come on for defrosting which is good for two reasons: it is way more effective, and the compressor needs to run now and then to keep the seals lubricated.

Another change I want to make is to have manual control of the recirculate door. I sit in commuter traffic and if I want heat, I get exhaust too. I wish Ford had made this system more flexible, I thought the brain-dead HVAC design went out in the 80's. The problem with this change is that the recirc is vacuum actuated so some sort of vacuum switching is required. It would be much easier if it were electric.

mrdetailer · December 2002

at least once a month. You can turn the heat up full and then run the AC as well. It needs to circulate regularly all of the oils at least monthly for at least 30 minutes in order to keep it in top operating condition

runman · January 2003

I have a 2000 model with the same blower motor noise problem. I am assuming it is a bearing as it whines a good bit especially at higher fan speeds. Same problem with earlier Mustang and T-Bird. More serious concern is the smell of what I think is coolant within the car after warming up. If I recall right - it is the same as experienced when heater core went on another vehicle. Smell is very noticeable. Any others with same issue? More pungent when on defrost setting - warm temp - intermediate fan speed - but noticed at others as well. Hose leak? Heater Block? Any ideas?

Thanks

vince4 · January 2003

I had the dealer replace the blower motor under warranty and the chirping noise is gone.

I also had a smell issue but not from a coolant leak. If you have a leaky heater core it should become obvious when the floor gets wet. My smell was due to pulling in engine compartment air along with fresh air. It only smelled when the car wasn't moving. If this is like your problem then look back 10 or 20 posts for my solution. It was to put foam weather strip tape across the front plastic area under the hood seal.

phatbuns · January 2003

Pulled the radiator cap on a '96 3.0 vulcan 12-V engine with 80K on it. It runs like new, but there's a coating of thick brown sludge on the bottom of the coolant tank cap and around the edges where the cap screws in. Bad sign?

jaybo4 · January 2003

I have a 1996 Taurus with the same
gunk in the coolent.

It is rotting out the system and has
not clogged the heater core.

The service station said he can not get the
heater core un-plugged. He wants $550 to replace it. He has to remove the steering collum and the whole dash !!! The part is $50 !!!

Does anyone know any way to clean out the core??

jaybo4 · January 2003

It has clogged the heater core !!! oooppppss.

One more thing.
There is a recall on the brown gunk.
Several years ago, the dealer replaced the
coolent expansion tank and flushed the system.
It did nothing to help.

I was thinking of going into the heater core
with long Q-Tips or vaccuum to clean it out.
Has anyone had any luck cleaning one out??
The gas station used compressed air with
no luck.

Thanks !!!

ndfar · January 2003

I was on a road trip and was having my oil changed on my 1999 Taurus and they found the brown sludge. I returned home and went to the dealer about it and there is a service bulletin out but its not a recall. The car just went out of warranty but he said he would take care of it for a $100 deductible and Ford would cover the rest of the cost. What they had to do was a chemical flush to clean the system and then replenish with new coolant. He said there is some rusting happening in the engine water jacket that cause this problem. So far so good and the coolant is staying green.

phatbuns · January 2003

How much sludge did you people with the problem notice? I bought this car used, the coolant looks nice and green, there's just a trace of sludge around the coolant tank reservoir neck and on the bottom of the cap, and the car blows plenty of heat. When you noticed the problem, what color was the coolant? Maybe my car was already fixed?

Also, on the heater core, in my old mustang days knew a guy who recommended every year pulling the lines to and from the core under the hood and blowing through with compressed air, this may help keep 'em clear. 'Course, the heater hoses in '67 mustangs were easy to get to... could this work on our beasts?

BTW, so far (2 1/2 weeks) I LOVE this car, vulcan engine and all.

felixc1976 · January 2003

I've had my 97 Taurus for 5+ years now. Changed coolant and transmission fluid every 2 years. When should I change brake&steering fluids? I've got 65k mi and the manual says nothing about changing them. What are your reccomendations?

jd123 · January 2003

Have a T2K Taurusw/56k on it. Just developed a problem of having the door open light stay on even though all the doors and liftgate are firmly shut. Problem has occurred intermittantly, both from cold and warm starts. Any ideas? Not sure if road salt has interfered w/a sensor or ? Other than that car is great.

Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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