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Mine seems to rattle only with the Satellite radio.
She planned to give the VW Service Manager and VWOA an earful today - the Coolant Temp Sensor replacement appears to have been a waste of $150. VW mechanics so far are no more competent than the garage that started this snowball rolling...
We are in agreement re: initial cause of the problem (first mechanic screwed-up!) but it is an import garage that came highly recommended by other VW owners - she'll have to make sure to correct that with appropriate word-of-mouth herself!
I will post here when I get more info...
I was told to push and hold two specific buttons and then then 4 blank spaces would show up. When I do, the word "SAFE" blinks six times and then stops. That is all. Nothing else. The dealership then told me to leave the key in the ignition and the radio turned on for an hour and then try again. I did that and nothing.
Does anybody have any ideas?
Today the gauge seems fine, at 190. I drove it at 65 mph for about 5 minutes, and the remainder of the driving (two hours, running errands) was normal city, street driving, 25 to 35 mph.
I should also mention that the check engine light has been on for a few weeks, after a two month period of going on and off intermittently with again, no perceptible change of performance. This has been an ongoing problem for many months, a couple of years actually. Early on my (independent) mechanic ran the diagnostic test, concluded that there was no specific problem, and told me not to pay too much attention to it. (He knows I pay close attention to the performance of the engine.)
Oh -- it seems impossible to be related, but my alarm system is also entirely crazy, going off if I open the doors in the wrong order, or if I place my purse on the passenger seat BEFORE putting my fanny behind the wheel. And often the buttons don't go down (or some do and some don't) when I set the alarm.
Before I take this clearly deranged vehicle to the mechanic, can anyone enlighten me on how serious the temperature gauge fluctuation might be? Thanks!
Just idle speculation here...since yours started acting up right after avoiding that collision, maybe the hard stop jarred something that was close to going bad and caused it to fail.
Now she wants to go back to VWOA to get a refund of the Dx check they ran that told them to replace the "coolant sensor", which turned-out to be a red herring! If I get any feedback on that I'll post a final follow-up... Hopefully we are nearing the end of the story!
Happy Motoring!
second started 2 weeks ago, my car was working fine, went to eat, got in to start it and it wouldn't start,not dead bat. engine was trying to turn over, after a couple times of turning the key it started up, check engine light came on. ran fine for a week, went and filled up, didnt start even after many trys. caught a ride to work, called a tow truck. the driver tried my car before he put in on the truck, it started. has started since then, until last night. it did the same thing just it was in my drive way so no tow truck. came home from work 6 hours later and it started, check engine light is on. i have an appointment to take it in this week but if i dont have to i dont want to. always loved vws but this is changing that feeling, its not as cheap and easy as a honda. im ok with a wrench but im a little hesitent to wrench on this because of the warranty from Wynn's. please if anyone has any suggestions im open for them.
Anyone have part number for the appropriate larger filter in an aftermarket brand (preferably Bosch or Purolator). Thanks for the help.
2nd question: is it really necessary to put in a new oil pan drain plug (@$2.50 a crack) for every oil change -- seems like overkill.
sump capacity is only 3.9 quarts. The larger filter is needed to bring the Passat's capacity to 4.2 quarts.
i am looking at buying one of these, and am wondering if you did alot of
research? and if so, did you encounter any other reports of these issues
Also, have you noticed excessive buffeting when the sunroof is open? They told us there is no fix for that other than rolling the windows down.
Difficulty- SKILL wize... if the timing belt is not installed properly, the engine can become a boat-anchor. (improperly timed camshaft can cause pistons to hit the valves.)
If you are going to do it yourself. Do some more research on the internet. There are "kits" available that have all necessarrry parts. (costing much less than all the parts from a dealership) Many folks use only waterpumps with METAL impellers because of the problems with the plastic ones.
If you have a 1.8T engine or a multi-valve engine (interference engine), that is definitely an issue. If you have the 2.0L 8-valve engine (most 8-valve engines are non-interference), the worst thing that can happen is you will be stranded on the side of the road, but at least you will still have an engine (once a new timing belt is installed, that is...)..
Your statement suggesting that most 8-valve engines are NONinterference is just plain wrong. The number of valves has nothing to do with it. It is the DESIGN that does.
BTW: The 1.8T is an AUDI engine... not a VW engine.
In any case, the fact still remains that if one is not familear with the tools-n-techniques needed to install a timing belt, it is not wise to attempt to replace the waterpump.
>Your statement suggesting that most 8-valve engines are NONinterference is just plain wrong. >The number of valves has nothing to do with it. It is the DESIGN that does.
Let's see - Based on the fact that I've been an auto mechanic with several VW engine rebuilds under my belt, the fact that I've been driving water-cooled VWs for almost 25 years, the fact that I've snapped a couple of timing belts over the years on my 1.5Liter 1975 Scirocco and my 1.8 liter 1987 VW Golf GT with no valve/piston damage, and the fact that I have a network of VW mechanics and dealership service departments who also confirm that the 8v engines (1.5 liters through the recent VW 2.0 liter) are NON-INTERFERENCE designs (while the 16-valve and 20-valve designs are INTERFERENCE engines), I prefer to stand by my statement and the statements of professional mechanics.
Do you have a mechanical background? Have you done engine rebuilds and the like? Tell the professionals they're just plain wrong - and they will more than likely dismiss your comments as coming from an "armchair mechanic". Do some research, then get back to me. :shades:
I did not question your mechanical aptitude. Many 8V engines are interference design (My 8valve VW TDI included). I am glad to hear that you have confirmed that the 2.0L is NONinterference.... The fact still remains that, in general, the number of valves-per-cylinder is not a good indicator if interference will occour. (on that point, you are still "just plain wrong")
Since you asked...why yes, I do have a mechanical background, an elecrtonic background and several others. I have also rebuilt many engines over the past 30 years. How many college degrees does it take before I graduate from "armchair mechanic"? (please see my profile for more details)
Those of us that have actually held pistons in our hands need to stick together. As you allude to, there are too many "armchair mechanics" who give bogus advice to the unknowing.
This is what I said:
If you have a 1.8T engine or a multi-valve engine (interference engine), that is definitely an issue. If you have the 2.0L 8-valve engine (most 8-valve engines are non-interference).
Here's a link listing the interference and non-interference engines:
http://www.lambsauto.com/belts.htm
Take note of the 4 cylinder engines with 8 valves (majority are SOHC). If you see an asterisk next to it, that denotes an interference engine. Otherwise, it's a free-running (non-interference engine).
Now - you see my statement, and a link with data supporting my argument.
I rest my case.... :shades:
Short of that, I would use a bottle of Red Line fuel system cleaner or Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner in conjunction with a tankful of premium (Sunoco, Shell, BP (Amoco Ultimate)) before I would even think of having the fuel injection system cleaned. Exhaust those possibilities first before committing to the more expensive procedures.
Oh, and you might want to take it out on the highway for longer drives every once in a while... :shades:
vin # is V W X A 8 1 H 1 V M 1 2 3 7 5 3 4
#1-Water Pump
30mm Hub, With Gasket
9 bolt
------------------
#2-Water Pump
W/ Housing
30mm hub/25mm hose connections. For gas vehicles, when replacing a pump with a 40mm hub, also use 055 121 031D, diesel vehicles require pulley 068 121 031K. *Pre 1984 models require 027 121 063C Hose*
I buy my parts from this site:
http://parts.carpartsemergency.com/
I have replaced water pumps on many cars, but never a VW. Are there any tips or pointers related to working on VW in particular?
http://www.germanautoparts.com
Here's a link to the cooling system parts for your Jetta - broken down by year, chassis number and on certain models, the VIN#
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Cooling/
I highly recommend this site. They have the items in stock, are reliable, reputable, and usually have your order out the door the same business day....
A BLINKING coolant lamp indicates low fluid in the resivour. You may add up to a cup of distilled water to fix it. If more fluid than that is needed, be sure to use ONLY G12 antifreeze.
I just bought a 2000 jetta and it came with no key. I would like to get one of those remotes with switchable blade on ebay but i am supossed to know the HLO #
and I have no idea what that is or how to find out.
thanks for your help
You will need a new voltage regulator if:
- The brushes on the voltage regulator are worn down to 1/8" or less
- The copper ring on the alternator doesn't show excessive wear (deep grooves
caused by the voltage regulator brushes).
You will need a new alternator if:
- The copper ring on the alternator shows excessive wear (regardless of the condition
of the brushes on the voltage regulator).
If both the alternator and voltage regulator are in good condition, the next step is to have your battery tested. If your battery is in good condition, the next step is to have the starter tested.
Hope this helps.