Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thx Lou
I try to replace the air filter on my 04 Jetta VR6, but after unscrewing two screws on the filter cabin, I still cannot take out the air filter, will appreciate if anyone can advise me how to take out the airfilter.
It is NOT the air filter for the engine.
Can you show me how to change the air filter for the engine please?
Or it may be your neutral safety switch. Try to start the car in neutral instead of park.
Is there a ABS or brake module that would do this??
Thanks for the help!
Vacuum booster defect would give you a very VERY hard pedal and very little stopping power, if you don't have those symptoms, then my two cents is that it's not the booster.
MIKE
so you could test for a leak by pouring a small amount of water (half a cup?) into th fresh air vent. It should drain immediately under the car or out a hose in the firewall (just behind the engine) and you should see it dripping on the ground. If you pour water in and it doesn't come out, you have a problem.
Good luck in the problem solving and I hope this info helps.
My car was stoloen the week before. I drove a couple of days...ran out of gas, fixed that. But, the next day, while driving...I start to slow down...my radio goes out for a min, then the car dies. It turns over...but still not connecting. It WILL start with some ether-based starting fluid, but not on it's own, or STAY running. I replaced the fuel pump, and gas tank (turns out there was a hole in that anyway) then replaced the fuel pump relay...still nothing. Anyone have any ideas...or am I a dumb girl who made a silly purchase?
Just call me "LUCKY"...just like the 3 legged dog
Is maintenance more expensive than a Toyota? That depends on your service contract and what it does and doesn't cover. It's a hard question to answer because the VW may cost more to maintain but your purchase agreement might pay for most of it, whereas the Toyota costs less but Toyota makes you pay for each service.
What I did when I bought my new car is ask about the service intervals and the estimated costs for each interval up to 60,000 miles, when I planned to ditch the car. I'm a believer in not risking ownership while a modern car is too far out of warranty, and with a German car, that's something to consider in your long term view, IMO. I get nervous around 80,000 miles. Or looking at it another way, one big wipe-out of a major component and all those years of gas savings are down the drain.
I think on the TDI you get a basic 4yr/50K and 5yr/60K on the drivetrain. Your dealer probably has service packages you can buy, and maybe some are included---don't know about that.
From a DIY point of view on a 2003 TDI 5 speed with 89,000 miles, all I have done is change the oil, oil, fuel, cabin and air filters. All these are so called consumeables. It went into the dealer for warranty, the rear door lock material replacement to replace a plastic part with a metal part?
Without question the key is to use VW specification oil. You of course can purchase the oil and filter and let whom ever do the change. But once you have an evacuator the oil and filter changes are WAY easy. On the oil and filter change I bought an evaculator (25-45 dollars on up) to do a 5 min oil and filter change. The rest of the 10-20 mins is spent doing clean up!!! You know, wipe everything, put back on the acoustic insulator, recycle the containers, put things away, etc. New car oil and filter changes are recommended at 5,000 miles and 10,000 miles. 10,000 miles past zero, the oil and filter change interval goes to 10,000 miles.
As for how long to keep the car. My 1989 VW diesel curantly has 417K+ miles on it. It is a very reliable car and though I am now using the dreaded gas station fuel in warm weather I use my own home made BIO fuel. not only is it about $0.65 a gallon to make but it smells good when driving!!
Although my niebors daughter drives there old camery to school every day and it is now up to 392K so it is all about maintenance and how you drive it. Be nice to your quality car. And I stress quality don't try the life long ownership with a KIA or Hyundai. But you never know.
Good luck with your choice. But if it where me I would buy another VW any day.
I have a 2004 Jetta and tonight after my husband drove his normal 45 minute commute home he stopped to pick up my step son at school, got back in the car, it started but the EPC light came on and he couldnt shift whatsoever. The car was stuck! He left it there, unplugged the battery, tried to shift it again and it was stuck in park (car still runs) so we left it there for a while with the battery unplugged, went back about 30 minutes later and at first it wouldnt shift but after my husband pumped the break about 10 times it shifted and we were able to drive it home. What is going on do you think??? In the book that came with the car it says that the EPC light should flash and ours didnt, it just stayed on (but went off when we went back after 30 minutes) at first when we unplugged the battery the light was still there. My car has 30K on it. I just had the oil changed last weekend, everything seemed fine. It does shift kinda funny (sometimes) but not jerky or anything (its an automatic) and sometimes after its been running for a while I hear a clicking sound while its running, it just sounds a little different after its been running for atleats 30 minutes.
So like I said we got the car home tonight it finally shifter after my husband pumped the break about 10 times but has anyone had this problem and what do you is going to happen now? I cant just keep it like this what if I get stuck somewhere by myself and have to wait 30 minutes for it to want to shift again or something...HELP?!?!?!
I know that the recall for the brake-light-switch actually MENTIONS not being able to take out of "park".
Here is copy of brake-light-switch recall.
-Heather
It is a simple matter of entering the "security code" to get the radio working again. (It is assumed that you *have* the security code somwhere...)
Are you seeing somthing besides a problem with the radio?
I have a 2000 VW Jetta w/ a V-6 and for the past couple of months my car has been acting strangely. One night while driving to pick up some food I went to start off and I pressed my gas pedal and it basically went all the way to the floor without accelerating hardly at all, and then would sputter to change gears (it's automatic). We had it checked because the check engine light was on and they told us that there was misfires...so we changed the spark plugs. For about a week my check engine light was off but it still felt like it was misfiring. We took it back and it said there were 3 misfires again, so we changed the spark plug wires and it seemed MUCH better. Well the next day I took it and had the oil changed and the next day when I drove to a nearby town by interstate it was having trouble accelerating and my check engine light came back on. Now whenever I stop my engine will shake, but it's ONLY when I stop and sit, you can feel the car shake the entire time, then when I start off the shaking ceases but it still will not accelerate well. When I get around 40-45 mph the engine misfires, as well as around 65-70 mph. Any acceleration is hard and going up hill is a nightmare and the engine misfires and the check engine light begins flashing. After spending $200 + dollars on new spark plugs and wires, I'm at a loss at what to do with it. If any one knows what could be causing the problem please let me know! I have a vacation planned in like 3 weeks and I don't want to have to worry about my car breaking down.
The part of the ignition system you have NOT dealt with is the coil. An easy way to isolate it as a problem is to spritz some water on it while idling. (an old windex bottle works great for this task) If the coil is "leaking" the high-voltage, the engine will start to misfire when coil is spritzed.
BTW: $200 for 6 sparkplugs and wires seems expensive... are you sure that is all that was done?
and as for the price, my brother-in-law installed all the stuff and my spark plug wires were $100, the spark plugs, I'm not really sure because my sister bought them, I just estimated that it'd be around the same as the spark plug wires.
I think I already said that the ignition coil is your next thing to check (all the sparkplug wires are plugged into it) Test it by spritzing water on it while engine is idling. If engine stumbles at all... the coil is suspect.
Personally, I would REMOVE the ignition coil and wash it in hot-soapy water. (just like doing the dishes) Use an old toothbrush to scrub it. Somtimes, a layer of grime on it could cause the symptoms you are complaining about. (Worth saving $300 for a new coil)
IMPORTANT: Make certain that you write down where all the sparkpug wires plug in BEFORE you remove them.
I am assuming I have a short somewhere... but where? Hopefully the fact that all the following are either on or off together will lead someone to a schematic that has all in line or something...
Thanks!
Another reason that I am suggesting that you look at the coil is because you mentiond that the problem got better for awhile AFTER the ignition wires were replaced.... Since all the wires plug into the ignition coil, it may have been 'disturbed' enough to make it work for awhile.
The blinking CEL is most likely due to the misfiring. If the sparkplugs misfire, that means RAW FUEL (unburned) will be pushed into catalytic converter. Eventually, if you keep driving while it is misfiring, you will destroy the catalytic converter. This is because the raw fuel can cause it to overheat. (the fuel burns in the converter!)
Correction... you have not been "burning" the fuel... is has gone thru the engine UNburned.
BTW: Ignition coil for your car are about $300 for BRAND NEW ones from:
http://www.worldimpex.com/
Again, I would personally try to get the original coil back into working order before spending any mony on a replacement. There are several options from this perspective.
1st of all - Which engine do you have?
2nd - What are the codes ?
Once we have those details, we may be able to guide you to a satisfactory repair.
As to your question about being covered by some warantee... You would have to ask the folks that are providing the warantee.
mike