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Comments
Can anyone tell me WHAT to Check Next I am Lost.
Thank you in Advance
Regards
MATT
After market one may not last as long as one from VW.
Though price for after market one is about half of one from VW.
If you buy two after market ones and keep the second one in the trunk you should never be caught with a dead car out in the middle of nowhere,
Or at the departure lane at the airport.
That is where hers failed.
Airport police were not too happy with that.
Even thought she was picking up her brother as a favor since he locked his keys in his car as a TSA employee.
Went through this with my daughters 98 Jetta.
Even had Car-X say it was a fuel pump for $680.00 to repair.
Import mechanic changed the coil out for $200 after it sat at the house for awhile I tried to change out the fuel pump. Fuel pump was good.
We are getting spark to the spark plugs and we are getting Fuel into to the Fuel Rail
We are getting Power to the Injectors. Still Will Not start
What would cause all 4 not to work at the same time
Thanks
very clogged fuel line?
very clogged fuel filter?
the Fuel Pump is working and I am getting great fuel pressure Up to the Fuel rail
Still Looking for help
Thanks in Advance
Matt
I assime you checked all the fuses and fusable-links. It is the engine-computer that controls injection signals to the injectors.
Let me say that another way... the engine-computer sends the "signals" to the injectors but the bulk of the POWER comes from another source. Typically, +12 is CONSTANTLY fed to the injectors and the engine-computer momentarilly shorts the other side to GROUND to cause an injection-pulse.
Check for +12 on all injectors.
Some of the engine-temp sensors up till about 2001 were found to fail prematurly. The replacement component is different design (read "more reliable")
On the 2.0L engine, this sensor is trivial to replace. I replaced one on my daughters car in the dark while she held the flashlight. (Dont forget to also replace the O-ring at same time.)
Cost for temp-ensor and O-ring was about $15 when I had to get one.
Apparently not enough voltage or not synchronized enough for German engineering.
Change it out, see if it works. If so then you have found your problem.
If not get a refund when you take it back.
Just don't screw it down in place and then it is not considered installed.
Or get one from a junk yard to try. If it works get a new one.
In order to remove the seat, you have to get a special "star" socket (available at PepBoys or AutoTrack) and remove 4 bolts - two in front and two in rear - that hold seat rails. Then you flip the seat backwards (with rails attached) and see what's causing your problem.
I have had the same problem with my '00 Jetta. There is a metal pin that slides in and out of a sleeve. That's the adjustment. Pin out the seat will slide. When the seat is adjusted, the pin goes into a hole and your seat is locked in. Easiest way to fix this is to clean out the pin/sleeve assembly. A lot of dirt down there and it gets into the workings and causes the pin to stick. It does work itself loose. That's why it does go back into position all the way forward and back. You can snap up on the adjust handle, but that will only tear up stuff. Try cleaning the assy with some spray cleaner. I used dry lub after the pin was loose.
Tracy
Thanks a lot!!
any auto parts store has a little book / computer-thing that will tell you the exact model #. also it's listed in the owners manual.
it's easy to replace too, a nifty/easy/suavely-engineered little plastic turn-the-cover-thingy makes it easy, but you do have to bend your wrist. be sure not to touch the bulb glass with bare fingers - oil from fingers can cause it to later crack.
taillight is probably easy too - probably similar/easy to brakelight that i just swapped on 06 jetta. also a very common bulb.
She came out to start her Jetta the other day and it started up but sputtered and died. If she continuously pumps the gas pedal the engine will run rough but will die the moment she stops pumping the gas pedal. I need to find an engine schematic so I can identify each component (fuel, ignition, electrical). I'm not a mechanic but very mechanically inclined and capable of fixing just about anything with a little guidance.
Any suggestions as to where I should start? Does anyone know where I can find an online engine schematic.
I'm very thankful for this forum.......Joey
I thought perhaps there might be some usefull information in the vehicle's history, but we cannot afford the added expense right now.
thank you,
Joey
I'm guessing that the check engine light is on/blinking. That would be the best place to start. It sounds like it has some sort of misfire, so you should get some helpful codes.
But, if I were to guess, I'd say something with the ignition system is faulty. I had the #1 spark plug go bad and the engine ran terrible, if it ran. One bad spark plug made my wife think the whole engine was toast. Not to say that this is your sisters problem, but one little part can cause serious problems.
Has any of the ignition parts ever been replaced?
Tracy
As eluded-to above, the very best way to diagnose a modern fuel-injected engine is start with the troublecodes stored in the onboard computer. They will point you where you need to look.
You can use some of the 'tools' on the internet to locate someone with VagCom.
Alternatly, many auto-parts stores will run the diagnostics for free and tell you the troublecodes which are stored in the onboard computer.
Once you have the troublecodes, you can post them here and we may be able to help isolate the problem.
Once you get to the oil housing, does it take a 32mm socket to get the top off?
The owners manual says to use SAE 5-40 oil, is it ok to use 5-30 Penzoil or
Quaker State regular not synthetic oil.
Also consider cleaning up all grounds, battery-termanals (including distribution-box)...etc
I would expect that cleaning all the connections will fix the problem.
Just a couple days ago, my daughters 2001 Gulf was having apparent battery problems. A few minutes with my DVM (Digital Volt Meter) showed me that the problem was NOT the battery...instead poor connections was causing alternator output to be only 13.1Volts. (Not enough to run the headlights AND charge the battery) After cleaning up all the contact-points at battery and alternator... the charge-voltage was back to expected levels.
5W40 oil is ONLY available as a synthetic. (dyno oil cannot span that much range of viscosity) Simply look for the xxx.xx designation that your engine specifies. (505.01, 507.00.... etc) There are several high-quality oils available (Pentosin, Castrol, Total Quartz...etc)
I order all my oil thru TDI parts....If you look, you will find several places that offer 5W40 with VW spec. Or get oil from dealership.
In a pinch, you can use Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic available at WallyMart. (NOTE: this oil DOES NOT meet the VW xxx.xx spec!)
The top plastic cover pops up easily. It's held by round ball-shaped fasteners on left and right side.
First, pull up the right side of the cover (battery side) with 2 hands straight up - one hand up front (radiator side) and one hand in rear (windshield side).
Then pull the left side same way upwards - straight up!
For the first time you have to yank it up pretty hard. Put some WD-40 or similar lubricant on those balls so that next time it's not that hard to pull it up.
You need 32 mm socket and socket wrench (flexible). You can get the inch-equivalent ( 1" 1/4" from any PepBoys or Autozone store. You need flexible wrench because there is not much room for socket and wrench on top of the oil filter housing cap.
As far as oil, I am assuming, you are talking about Tdi Diesel. If so, be careful to put the right oil (as bpeebles mentioned) the best source is TDIparts.com, like he said. It;s got to be 507 00 synthetic VW type or whatever your manual calls for. You can buy from then an oil change kit (which I recommend) - it includes the oil, oil filter, rubber "O" oil filter ring and oil plug with washer.
If you have a gasoline engine, follow your handbook for a proper oil specification.
Also, check the fuse box that those bulbs are on and make sure fuses are OK. If you are putting higher Wattage bulbs you may have to increase the fuse ratings. Wiring will take it but the bulb sockets may not.
changing the oil, a couple of time I had to tell them to add oil after I got it back. Even though you get free oil changes for 3 years I found it better just to do it yourself and do it correctly. Also when I called the dealer about how to get the
cover off and the oil, they did not want to offer up much information. I guess
they wanted to make sure I brought it to them for service. This afternoon I'm going
to try to get the housing off just to see where that oil filter is.
I also have bad experience with oil changes at various dealers and quick-lube centers.
Don't forget to re-set the instrument panel computer reminder, after you change the oil. If you don't know how, let us know. There is a simple procedure to do that!
the 32mm socket and flexible wrench when I go to change the oil. Before I got on
this site I called the service manager at the dealer where I bought my car and
he told me the housing has a few screws that need loosened to get the housing off,
which I could not find. He also told me the socket was a "speciality tool"
50 or 52 mm. He seemed to really be trying to discourage me from doing this myself.Looks like its going to take a little more effort then some of my past cars but I'll get it. I bought my first car in 1968, 2+2 Mustang Fastback, and changed my own oil ever since. Never had a bit of engine trouble on any of them which I attribute to this maintenance. This dealer has a very good rating for doing maintenance is why I went there. Hope any warranty work I might have goes ok. Again
Thank You very much for this information.
I never thought oil was a issue with the Jetta. Looks like I'll have to give my car the
TLC I give my wife's BMW. Went on a couple of sites
and it looks like Pennzoil, Plat. European, Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Syn Power
full syn will meet all specs. Just have to find an automotive store who keeps one
on these in stock here in Balt. MD
I wasn't trying to find a cheap way out on this but was surprised that I had to go
with synthetic oil. Oh well it take just as much effort to change conventional as it does synthetic oil, just a few extra bucks to replace them
Thanks for information
http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2009/09/2009-volkswagen-jetta-tdi-diy-oil-- - - -filter-change.html
It covers Tdi diesel engine but I think it's quite similar for gasoline engines.
I can change the oil in my VW and change the filter... all from under the hood... in about 15 minutes without spilling a drop. The old filter-element and paper-towels that I use all go into a 1-gallon ziplock bag... ready to be taken to the recycle center with the old oil.
For those of you who are 'skeptical' about topside oil-changes, be aware that the official Bently shopmanual suggest this is an acceptable way to change the oil.
Additionally, you can actaully get MORE oil out of the engine using the topside tecnique. This is because you can suck all the old oil out of the oilfilter housing too.
I also want to make it clear to the folks advocating anything less than the recommended 10K mile oil-change. DONT DO IT! Anything less than 10K miles is simply trhowing away the perfectly good oil in the crankcase, adding more used-oil to the envrionment and adding MORE wear to their engine. Not to mention the additional time and money you are wasting.
Underneath engine cover rivets are not such a big deal. Once that cover if off one can also see, check and inspect other components underneath the car - preventive maintenance and inspection never hurts!
Proper oil change also calls for checking or a replacement of the magnetic oil plug and a washer (that plug may catch some metal debris that may be in the oil pan).
Likewise, I can do the oil change in less than 20 minutes with proper tools on hand.
Those who do their oil changes more frequently than 10K may have their own reasons for doing so. This has been discussed on these pages several times previously.
It is assumed that used oil is re-cycled and therefore that has no impact on the environment.
the engine?
Oil drain plug is 3/4" (19 mm) size.
VW has been adding a pernminant magnet to the crankcase (and xmission) for over 30 years. These are not accessable from the outside and never need to be 'cleaned'. The magnet is capable of holding significantly more ferrous material that the engine will shed over its lifetime. I have never seen a magnet on the drain-plug of a VW. (Do they really do that now?)
Folks that actually send in oil samples to a lab have proven that most wear particals occour over the first ~3K miles after a change.... then things settle out. Thus, EVERY time the oil is changed, it has to go thru this wearing-in. It is proven fact that more frequent OCI (OilChangeInterval) causes more wear. This is a MEASURED FACT and not some emperical feel-good data.
I am not so sure that it has been discussed here in this forum too often. Only in recient years has VW started to spec the synthetic oil for ALL of its engines. Times they are a-changin and the old paradymes do not apply.
I know it is hard for some people to beleive that modern lubricants/filters can go 10K miles. But in reality, the very same labs mentioned above have proven that one could go about 30K miles before the wear-particals start to show that the oil-breakdown is happening.
Additionally, the drop-in filter cartradge is DESIGNED for extended OCI. (it is about 3X larger than previous spin-on filters that VW used to spec at 7500-mile OCI)
It truly is a waste of time and money to change out perfectly good oil. I cannot even think of an upside to making OCI shorter than 10K miles.
To combat this, the newer synthetic oils have a high TBN (Total Base Number). This charictoristic of the oil is intended to ALLOW for extended TIME between OCI.
The chemistry is not that complicated... I think we all remember 7th grade science that taught us that a "base" is the opposisate of an "acid". Essentualy the high TBN gives a motor-oil the ability to "buffer" or "nutralize" the acid. In this way, the problem of acid build-up with an extended OCI is diminuished.
Like I said in my last append... times they are a-changin and the old paradymes about motor oil may not apply any longer. The ONLY people that advocate 3000 mile OCI are folks that get PAID to change your oil. There has not been any technical reason for 3000 mile OCI for over 10 years.
I guess if you used the 89 cents per quart oil from Wallymart... then you may need to change it often. However ALL the brand-name oils use quality additive-package which extends the useful life of their product in your engine.
Dont take my word for it, use google to search for "motor oil TBN" and read for yourself.
Interestingly, I have noted that synthetic oils tend to resist forming the oil-water emulsion....but it still happens to some degree. (I actually switched to using synthetic oil in my V8 truck and immedeatly saw a reduction of 'snot' build-up.)
This moisture can also rust-out an exhaust system because muffler can literally fill with water till it comes out the tailpipe. (perhaps you have seen water dripping out of a car tailpipe)
The "fix" for water-droplets forming in crankcase and exhaust has always been the same... Drive your car long enough to get engine HOT for at least 45 minutes. This will drive the water out of crankcase thru the PCV system. (PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventalation)
In the winter, I purposefully make certain that I drive for over an hour at least once a month. (Take my wife to see relatives or something...) Any cost of fuel is far cheaper than the damage the water can do to the engine/exhaust.
Also, during this monthly drive, we run the heater at full blast which helps dry out all the carpeting in the vehicle. This virtually eliminates problem with windows fogging up on a cold morning. (no moisture in the vehicle to re-condense on the glass)
You are on a roll of giving some excellent information and advice with your recent posts on this topic. The above excerpt from your last post is exactly what I do with our Audi cabriolet on nicer days from October to April. It otherwise rests in the garage and lets the TDI's brave the fall and winter transportation duties.
If you drive less than 10,000 miles a year (like me) or you have daily short commute trips of less than 3 (or so) miles (like me) it's recommended to change oil more frequently than the 10,000 miles interval. Last summer, when I was in Germany, I checked with VW and that is what I was told.
We've been doing 12 mo changes on my wife's Jetta and that is typically about 7,000 miles or so. But the low annual miles is not due to particularly short trips, it gets driven about 11 miles each way to work (about 20 minutes). I'll probably just stay on the 12 month schedule after warranty, but I wonder if there is any reason not to go ~18 months and 10,000 miles.
Speaking of time based maintenance intervals, VW has this bizarre one:
Replace air filter element and clean housing, Every 4 years for vehicles driven less than 60,000 miles / 97,000 km in 6 years.
I replaced ours at 4 years and 30,000 miles, I guess if we expected to drive 30,000 miles in years 5 and 6, we would not have had to change it. :confuse:
I change my air filter every 20,000 miles as I sometimes drive in dusty or sand blowing areas. I change my cabin air filter every 10,000 miles ( due to high humidity in FL).
Be aware K&N permanent oil treated air filters are not recommended for diesel engine applications! There is evidence that some oil residue from those filters gets into intake manifold.