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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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My 01 AWD RX300's transmission fluid has a burned look and odor at just 38k miles. This on a vehicle that has no tow hitch but with the tow package (extra transmission fluid cooler in front of right front wheelwell) and no designated fluid/replenish maintainance schedule.
I have sent at least three missives to customer_satisfaction_inquiries@lexus.com and what I get back each time is that I should check with the dealer about why my RX has burned fluid. Apparently something they do not wish to put in writing.
Up until just this week I have been assuming that the designers underestimated the heating contributed by the VC.
But then I keep hearing/reading about these hesitation problems and that got me to thinking on another thread.
I am absolutely sure that my 01's transmission shifts into another gear, or maybe even neutral, during coastdown.
Some have described it as a "slingshot" effect or as if being bumped from behind just before coming to a full stop. I have attributed this effect to a desire to increase fuel economy and/or reduce the instances of loss of control on a slippery surface as the result of engine braking to the front, drive, wheels.
But suppose for a moment that I'm correct and the vehicle is being shifted into neutral in these instances.
My 01 DOES NOT have an e-throttle so the instant I depress the footfeed the engine will react and apply high output......while the transmission is still in neutral or an inappropreately higher gear??
Now THAT would result in premature BURNING of the transmission fluid!
But now with e-throttle the later models might have a firmware fix that delays the onset of engine torque until the transmission can be shifted into the correct gear and allow time for the clutches or bands to be full seated before excessive torque is applied.
Obviously just guessing, but....
Frequently, when driving my 2004 Camry, I get this frustrating "static" noise from the speakers on the right side of the vehicle. It also happens when a cell phone call is about to be received or when a call is initiated. I have taken the care to the dealer to have them look at this problem, but they cannot reproduce the static when the vehicle is being serviced.
Does someone out there have the same problem? Please advise if anyone has a solution.. Thxs
aventura1
Turn off the da_n cell phone while in the car and enjoy some quiet. Nothing can be that important that one must be yakking on the phone while driving.
So please keep your sarcastic remarks to yourself and stop wasting my time...
Jim
Thanks
I really enjoyed the car and was told that the 04 V6 Camrys had a new 5 speed tranny and did not have this issue. I test drove the vehicle and it did not have the cold shift shock problem and seemed to shift nicely during the test drive. I traded in my 02 for the 04.
I am now starting to experience hesitations from 1st to 2nd. It seems to be worse after I get off the highway and get into stop and go traffic. I have also picked up the hard down shifts on the highway when I brake (easily) on steep declines. My last oil change they reset the computer to factory. It seemed fine for a short while now the problems are starting up again.
I am very disappointed that I went Toyota again. Reading the posts on transmission issues there are design issues with Toyota's fly by wire system which they will not admit to. Us loyal Toyota folks are going to get burnt with major transmission problems just as our warranty expires. There are just to many of the same type issues (starting in 02) since their electronic throttle system was introduced.
Hey Toyota, step up and admit that this system has flaws, admit there are flaws instead of giving us your BS that this is normal, really resolve the issues, and take care of your customers. OOPPSS !!, I forgot it might take some $$$$ to fix.
I suspect that in this case the transmission will actually shift into first and now you will be able to accelerate away for a full stop rapidly.
Not saying the design feature is justified, just something to try for those of you so very frustrated about this.
And of course more information to take to the complaint department.
P.S. I could like this car but this is my last Toyota. Not because of the car but with the dealer. Any problems I have with the car are passed off as "It's normal" or "They all do that". Cold shift shock, jerky shifting and at 38/40 mph the car will slowly accelerate up to 80mph with no additional pressure on the gas pedal. I was wondering if anyone else has ever had this problem.
I never seen it on my 97 LE 4-cy. It has 100500mile on it and I never have any problem with my tranny at all. Only did a "drain and replace tranny filter" at 60000 mile ONCE.
If my car went from 40 to 80 on its own and the dealer refused to do anything about it then my next calls would be to the NTSB and my State Attorney General's Office Division of Consumer Affairs.
I've got a 2002 Camry that has been making odd noises as of late whenever I start the engine (whether it is warm or cold inside / out). As soon as I turn the key and the ignition rumbles, I hear a 'gurgling' sound for approximately 2-3 seconds (like the last bits of water gurgling out of a container with a small mouth) from the vent directly to the left side of the CD player. This noise happens regardless of if I have just had the air-conditoning on or not.
Does -anyone- have any ideas as to what may be causing this? I'm paranoid about my cars and it never use to do this, so needless to say I'm a bit worried.
Thank you for your help!!
wheels on the internet that came off a 97 Camry.
My question is, will they fit.???? I heard that
there was some changes after 96 and can not
varify this. Seller is not sure either...
Any help or information would be appreciated.
http://www.discounttire.com/dtc/searchWheelsByVehicleAndSize.do?r- - - - - c=CASINT&yr=1994&wd=15&sw=false&rw=&vid=00690- - - - - 9&bp=
I took it to a local mechanic (not the dealer) and he spent some time looking around. He thinks it's trapped water somewhere, not the water pump. He couldn't find it, though.
I notice the noise when i accelerate or brake, make turns, etc.
What else have you noticed?
Steve
My old 89 Camry did the same thing at 230K. Replaced the 2 axles (only $110 each part and labor after market), the ticking noise went away!
I had a 89 Camry LE (250K) and 93 Camry LE (200K) and had no problem doing all preventive maintenance myself with no mechanic training and mimimum amount of tools. The cars all ran great with no problem.
1. Changing engine oil and filter and transmission fluid to owners' manual schedule is very easy. Just buy a flat oil container to store the used oil and recyle it at the part stores. Use a steel tube to lengthen the wrench handles for extra torgue to open the tough oil lugs.
2. Change front disk brake pads when the sensors start sqeaking. Toyota's OEM pads last longer on the rotors and will not make noise. I do much better brake jobs than any brake shops spending much less time not having to wait around at the shop. Anyone interested in the procedure, let me know.
3. Adjust the rear drum brake. Replacing the shoes is possible but the shoes hardly work and are rarely worn! It's much safer to buy the SE or XLE with 4 disk brakes to take full advantage of the ABS. Save a lot of time replacing pads too!
4. There is no need to service the fuel injector unit. Every 20K miles, give the car a full tank of premium gas (Shell V power with 5 detergents etc...) with 1 bottle of injector cleaner. That should keep the injectors nice and clean, and the cold start sensor and mechanism to work properly.
5. Replace the air filter to schedule to keep the fuel injector clean and fuel efficient.
6. Replace the spark plugs on schedule. Use a small rubber hose to pick up the plugs from the wells. Do not use Platinum plugs for cars specified with resistor plugs, since that will stress and overheat the ingition coil and eventually burn it out.
7. The rubber timing belt is inside the engine head. Most break at about 100K -120K miles. When they break, nothing bad happens to the engine since it's a non-interferent design (unlike Mitsubishi's design). The distributor rotor is gear to this belt and will stop turning and engine just stop running. Call a tow truck to a reliable shop for $150 replacement. It may make sense to replace the water pump at the same time.
8. Buy a lifetime aligment policy for about $200 at tire stores (firestone or Sears) to keep the wheels aligned. The car will run smoother, eat less gas and will not chew up tires.
9. I prefer Michelin's all season tires since they are proved to last longer, ride smoother, wear evenly, leak far less air through the rims therefore I dont have to check pressure too often.
10. US-built struts will probably wear out at about 100K. Replace them with Japanese gas struts and they should last a life time. Worn struts can induce instability and chew up tires which can cause extreme hazards.
11. The US-built plastic-top radiator will probably leak at about 100K miles. Check for water leaks under the car occasionally as overheating can crack the engine beyond repairs. A new radiator should cost around $200 part and labor. I replaced my own for far less by removing a few screws and hoses!
12. If the car is misfiring, there is a chance that the distributor rotor or the spark plug cables are worn. Replace them 1 at a time and check progress.
13. Once a year, take the car to the self-service washing station, wrap the distributor cap in plastic to prevent it getting wet, spray the engine with degreasing fluid and hose it down. That should keep the engine nice, clean and shiny, which would point to any oil leaks or any worn belts ect...
14. Spray some of the degreasing liquid in #13 on the rubber boots around the 2 axles and the rack and pinion assembly underneath the engine. That should keep the acids in the engine oil from cracking the rubber and letting dirt into the greased ball bearings etc... so you won't have to replace them.
15. Check engine belts every year. Replace them when there are cracks on the underside.
Steve
There should be right-angle sockets that you can insert into the plugs' wells. Ask the part stores about your problem and they can recommend the right tools.
Whenever I turn the steering wheel from its center position, I can feel a little vibration (perhaps a click but it's not something I can hear). It feels like something is loose.
Also, I am getting a very strange sound lately when I turn off the car after driving it. It's most noticeable when I get off the car. I could hear a noise that's similar to sticks hitting a metal bucket really hard. It sounds only once. I think I've heard that same sound inside the car when I came to a stop before, but wasn't sure. Any ideas as to what that sound is?
Thanks in advance.
epond
The brakes are awful on this car. Thre is no mechanical problem, as I have removed all four wheel and inspected everything. The fluid is fine and I re-adjusted the rear brakes. The pedal has no feel to it at all. I went to Toyota and voiced my concern and was told they are all like that. My plan is to upgrade to Stainless Steel lines to replace the rubber hoses. I feel this may provide some additional feel to the pedal. Has anyone else noticed how poor these things stop and the lack of feel? I'll admit, I drive hard, but my Ford Ranger will outstop the Camry. Thanks
If the AC drain hole was clogged, would you not see water under your car from the condensate or am I confused? Haven't posted to this group before - my wife's '02 Camry is having the same gurgling/sloshing noise others have mentioned. They said that it is most likely an air gap and the system would have to be purged. They are estimating $85. Anyone else have to pay for a car under warranty and did the purging help? The tech says it is classified as maintenance even though "only" one other car has been in the shop for this reason.
Thanks in advance!
Darin
I have a 99 camry 4cyl, 166,000 miles. Back about 5 months and 15,000 miles ago developed a clicking or tapping noise from the engine compartment. This is what the experts have said, Toyota Dealer, "not sure what it is without taking engine apart, but probably should not drive it". Local ETD shop: "sounds like a valve but not sure", could be major problem". Local Tire/Service shop: " just not sure" Pretty decisive isnt it? Does anyone have an idea on what this could be? Here are the details:
Only hear it when accelerator is pressed, gets louder and quicker as rpms go up. Do not hear it at idle or when coasting. When first starting up in the morning,will take about one minute to hear it. Not so loud at cruising speed,(rpms lower?) Sometimes I can vary the speed of it and loudness by letting up on the accelerator while crusing. NOTE: just before the first time I heard this sound,my son drove the car and said that he bottomed the car out one day. Looked underneath, saw nothing. Again, any ideas would be appreciated.
From what I know, the water you see under the car while the A/C is on drips from the drain hole(actually a tube). So, if yours is clogged, you won't see the puddle. When I took my car to a local shop for the sloshing sound, they suggested blasting compressed air into the drain tube first, and sure enough, what had been backed up in there came right out. Keep in mind this shop is owned and operated by guys who are known to do spark plugs for free and oil changes for $5 if you bring the filter and oil.
Here's what I would do. See if you can find the drain tube. On my 89 Camry, it is a clear plastic tube that hangs down just out of sight behind the front bumper(near the center-under the car of course!). If and when you find it, drive to a service station which has an air machine-25 cents to fill your tires etc--park close to it, and try blasting some of that air up into the tube. If that's your problem, hopefully the compressed air will loosen the clog. I hope this helps and saves you a little $$$!! Let me know.
Steve
I took the car to the dealer and they said there was damage done to the catalytic converter under the car. They replaced it and the noise was gone.
Did you tell the shop mechanics that your car was bottomed out? If you hadn't already, that would probably narrow search for the problem.
Good luck.
Keep me updated regarding the attempts made by the dealer to fix the steering problem, thanks!