May pour a tank of STP gas cleaner into the tank. It's suppose to remove/isolate any water... though if more than a few ounces got in I doubt it would do any good. May have trouble with gas line freezing when it gets cold. Could siphon remaining gas out.
2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
Depends how much water got in there. It has settled to the bottom of the tank. I'd say you might either never go below 1/4 full if you can, or you can 'test' things out by deliberately going to 1/8th full or so and if the car starts to sputter, you might have to drain the gas tank to get rid of that much water.
If it's just a teeny bit of water, the engine will burn that up after gasping a few times.
My 93 Escort LX hit a deer a few weeks ago, and though I made it home I had to replace many parts of the body/radiator. Now, when I put the key in and turn until the fuel pump comes on, a flow of gas comes out the metal relief valve pipe which is connected to the top of the fuel filter mounted on the firewall. Any idea how to replace this valve without draining all the gas? :confuse:
Remove the connector and stuff a sharpened pencil in the connection, if it will snuggly fit. I've used this many times to block fuel flow. Of course, do NOT do this inside any building or near ANY open flame source. Dealing with gasoline at any time could cause a massive fire.
Put in 2 or 3 bottles of "Heet" or some other such water removal treatment. This is basically rubbing alcohol, which will combine with the water and then flow on thru fuel system and be burned, taking any water out of the tank.
I have an 01 sportage and am getting no juice to fuel pump. Replaced f.p. relay and main power relay as well as main power fuse, still no power. Are there more than one relay for f.p.?any ideas would be appreciated
1. Connect the data link connector terminals FUEL PUMP and B+ with a jumper wire. 2. Remove the fuel filler cap. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON . 4. Determine if the fuel pump is running by listening for the sound of it at the fuel filler inlet. 5. Install the fuel filler cap. 6. If no sound was heard, measure the voltage between the fuel pump connector wire (G/Y) to chassis ground. Voltage: About 12 V 7. If not correct voltage, check the fuel pump relay and related wiring harness. 8. If you do not measure 12 V , check for continuity between fuel pump connector terminal wires (G/Y) and (B). 9. If there is continuity, replace the fuel pump.
10. If there is no continuity, repair the ground circuit.
Have a 2003 Passat, 4 cyl. turbo. Gas mileage been declining for a year(from 30 MPG to 24 MPG). Car runs as well as ever-doesn't make sense. Tires inflated slightly above recommended. 58K miles.
has your daily commute changed? have you kept up with maintenance? has the gas changed in your area, meaning has your gas stations switched to using E10 (10% ethanol)?
Thanks. I'll check it out. I should add that I took it to dealer a couple days ago. They said they didn't see a problem and to make sure I use premium gas. Didn't sound like much of a rec.
84 chevy c10 w/2bbl 305 has a dead spot in carb.Rebuilt carb thinking it would fix problem but it didnt.What else can be done to remedy this?Please help!
Did the rebuild include replacing the 'power piston'? A bad one can reduce acceleration a bunch.
Lots of other things could be wrong, especially with a carb this old. Air leaks around worn out shafts on the throttle will make it run lean, etc, etc, etc.
Here's my story! I have a 2006 Volvo S40 Lease that is up on April 1st. About 2 months ago my Check Engine Light came on and I drove the car to the dealer to get it fixed (still under warranty). They've told me the problem is the Throttle Body is dirty and they have to do a Throttle Body Service ($150). They also told me they will clean it up and run the computer test again to see if the problem goes away if it doesn't they will have to continue troubleshooting and fixing. This sounds to me that $150 can easily become thousands!
Car history: On a very rainy day I drove the car into a big puddle of water and it hydrolocked the engine. The engine was changed at the same dealership mentioned above. I performed the scheduled maintenances and use regular fuel.
I don't care to properly fix the car, i just want to fix it enough for the Check Engine light to go away until after I return the vehicle. I know the Throttle Body cleaner is $5 dollars, but although i'm a very handy person I don't know enough about engines to take them apart. I don't even think i have the right tools.
What do you recommend? Should I try to clean the Throttle myself or let the dealer do it? Is it very easy to clean it? Take it apart? Should i take it somewhere else?
Also check YouTube for throttle body cleaning videos!
Without knowing what the code # was that the dealer scanned, I have no way to guide you as to whether their approach is correct or not. You might see if Autozone would scan your car for free and come up with a code for us.
Not worth the price of the can. The TB needs agitation to clean. Seafoam is impressive with all the white smoke it makes must be good for mosquito control.
I went to AutoZone and ran a diagnostic test. Here is the result:
Code: P0171
Definition: Fuel trim bank one condition
Explanation: The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sendsor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Probable Causes: 1. If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. 2. Oxygen sensor defective. 3. Ignition misfire-repair. 4. Fuel injector problem.
Troubleshotting: N/A OEM Brand: OBDII
The PCM has determined that during testing, the fuel system for bank 1 was too lean. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank).
Well that's just a generic code, doesn't tell you much.
This could be a vacuum leak in/under the intake manifold or a leaking "J' pipe for the evaporative emissions systems. Use of a smoke machine can usually dig this out. So you might snoop around for vacuum leaks...that will trigger P0171 I am told.
I'm car ignorant so everything you just said is like chinese to me. Should i just take it to the dealership? The guy at Autozone told me that I hsouldn't trust any other mechanic with my Volvo other than the dealership cause they are very complicated.
Last I seen dealerships were running upwards of $125/hr for labor. Imagine taking two hours to diagnose and a hour to repair. Plus parts marked up at 100% would give me an uneasy feeling. Find a local shop specializing in imported cars.
Anyway, I would do a Google search on "Volvo S40 P0171". Like Shifty mentioned, what Autozone gave you is a generic description. doing the search will pull up this code specific to Volvo. You can read up on other Volvo owners issues with this code. It seems it is fairly common code with a few solutions.
If you don't trust the dealership, you should be able to find an independent mechanic that specializes in Volvos (if you live near a city).
I called a few shops in the area and they've told me it most likely is a faulty sensor. Since the car was still under warranty I called the dealer and spoke to the manager who tol dme to bring it back in. After a few hours of waiting they've replaced the faulty sensor which was still under warranty and everything was back to normal. Of course I returned the vehicle to the dealer right after that. Mission accomplished. Thanks for the suggestions.
:confuse: I just rebuilt my edelbrock performer carb and now it continues to bogdown in between 40-50 mph. I checked the float levels and double checked the measurements of 7/16 and 15/16 drop. Engine will run great at WOT but bogs down when cruising. The manual says to measure the outer end of the float. Does that mean the end away from the pin or the end with the pin that holds the float???Any help isappreciated.
Daewoo Nubira. I'm replacing the fuel filter. Hoping maybe it's just clogged, but if I need to replace the fuel pump. What is the easiest way. Please Help.
136 thousand miles, found out fuel filter has never been replaced. Will that cause rough idle, poor acceleration, but runs perfect at high speeds, 55 mph plus, slight smell of gas at cold start, can someone please tell me fuel filter symptoms?
I own a 2000 chevy cavalier 2.2, manual transmission. At 1st it ran smooth when I bought it used (naturally). 4 months later it began misfiring when I shifted at a reasonable low rpm (2000rpm then it would be around 1400 rpm when in the next gear) and would miss fire all the way up to the next shift until I hit 5th gear. In addition, if I maintained a constant velocity, ever so subtle missfires could be felt. I replaced the spark plugs for kicks and giggles and that solved nothing, the oil is full to boot. After going to the junk yard and making a makeshift fuel pressure test, I had around 45 psi. Put a junkyard regulator on it, got 46 psi, car didn't run better. Next I changed the coil pack with a junkyard coil pack. It may be noted the coil pack I took out was fouled on line #1, and replaced the spark plug wires for good measure. Everything started looking good as the problems were solved, now, not even 1 day later though. The car no longer idles at 1000 rpm, but just above 900 rpm, and will struggle in idle and the needle with go between 800 and 900 rpm. In addition, When shifting, it doesn't feel like a misfire, but more so like it is losing power when I try to accelerate, but will stop when I reach high rpm's, unlike my previous misfires that would make the car buck no matter how high the rpm got. I beg for some light on my situation to any who can provide.
following tips are very useful for car maintenance 1) keep your vehicle clean 2)change oil 3) keep your tire inflated 4)drive with in a speed limit 5)check battery regularly
i have a 2000 chevy blazer 4.3 vortex engine after it sets for a long period of time i go to start it up and put into gear try to give it gas and it wants to bogg out on me for about a min or two then is fine have new f-pump maf o2 sensor s3
Have you done a thorough check for vacuum leaks, to begin with?
I'd especially check along the intake manifold gasket.
The 02 sensor was probably a bad guess from the start.
This diagnostic tree might help you approach the problem methodically.
You might also verify idle fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge---I know it's a new fuel pump but it might be a lazy one. One tip off would be taking a long time to start on crank, and a fluctuating needle on the fuel pressure gauge.
Comments
If it's just a teeny bit of water, the engine will burn that up after gasping a few times.
1. Connect the data link connector terminals FUEL PUMP and B+ with a jumper wire.
2. Remove the fuel filler cap.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON .
4. Determine if the fuel pump is running by listening for the sound of it at the fuel filler inlet.
5. Install the fuel filler cap.
6. If no sound was heard, measure the voltage between the fuel pump connector wire (G/Y) to chassis ground. Voltage: About 12 V
7. If not correct voltage, check the fuel pump relay and related wiring harness.
8. If you do not measure 12 V , check for continuity between fuel pump connector terminal wires (G/Y) and (B).
9. If there is continuity, replace the fuel pump.
10. If there is no continuity, repair the ground circuit.
Thanks
Thanks
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0a3002/
Lots of other things could be wrong, especially with a carb this old. Air leaks around worn out shafts on the throttle will make it run lean, etc, etc, etc.
Problem in the distributor with the advance?
Here's my story! I have a 2006 Volvo S40 Lease that is up on April 1st. About 2 months ago my Check Engine Light came on and I drove the car to the dealer to get it fixed (still under warranty). They've told me the problem is the Throttle Body is dirty and they have to do a Throttle Body Service ($150). They also told me they will clean it up and run the computer test again to see if the problem goes away if it doesn't they will have to continue troubleshooting and fixing. This sounds to me that $150 can easily become thousands!
Car history:
On a very rainy day I drove the car into a big puddle of water and it hydrolocked the engine. The engine was changed at the same dealership mentioned above. I performed the scheduled maintenances and use regular fuel.
I don't care to properly fix the car, i just want to fix it enough for the Check Engine light to go away until after I return the vehicle. I know the Throttle Body cleaner is $5 dollars, but although i'm a very handy person I don't know enough about engines to take them apart. I don't even think i have the right tools.
What do you recommend? Should I try to clean the Throttle myself or let the dealer do it? Is it very easy to clean it? Take it apart? Should i take it somewhere else?
Thanks in advance....
Cleaning Throttle Bodies
Also check YouTube for throttle body cleaning videos!
Without knowing what the code # was that the dealer scanned, I have no way to guide you as to whether their approach is correct or not. You might see if Autozone would scan your car for free and come up with a code for us.
Code: P0171
Definition:
Fuel trim bank one condition
Explanation:
The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sendsor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Probable Causes:
1. If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor.
2. Oxygen sensor defective.
3. Ignition misfire-repair.
4. Fuel injector problem.
Troubleshotting: N/A
OEM Brand: OBDII
The PCM has determined that during testing, the fuel system for bank 1 was too lean. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank).
What do you think?
This could be a vacuum leak in/under the intake manifold or a leaking "J' pipe for the evaporative emissions systems. Use of a smoke machine can usually dig this out. So you might snoop around for vacuum leaks...that will trigger P0171 I am told.
is he right?
Anyway, I would do a Google search on "Volvo S40 P0171". Like Shifty mentioned, what Autozone gave you is a generic description. doing the search will pull up this code specific to Volvo. You can read up on other Volvo owners issues with this code. It seems it is fairly common code with a few solutions.
If you don't trust the dealership, you should be able to find an independent mechanic that specializes in Volvos (if you live near a city).
Good luck.
Another happy ending. :shades:
Not familiar with the Nubira but you may need to access the fuel tank from the trunk.
Does anyone know what is the correct fuel pressure on a 2002 S80?
Thanks :sick:
*
Will a 2002 Fuel pump & front (fuel tank) strap fit in my 2003
GMC Sonoma S-15 Pick-up truck with a 4.3 Liter engine?
I'd suggest pulling some codes on the car and see if they might lead you to a better diagnosis.
1) keep your vehicle clean
2)change oil
3) keep your tire inflated
4)drive with in a speed limit
5)check battery regularly
have new f-pump maf o2 sensor s3
Have you done a thorough check for vacuum leaks, to begin with?
I'd especially check along the intake manifold gasket.
The 02 sensor was probably a bad guess from the start.
This diagnostic tree might help you approach the problem methodically.
You might also verify idle fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge---I know it's a new fuel pump but it might be a lazy one. One tip off would be taking a long time to start on crank, and a fluctuating needle on the fuel pressure gauge.