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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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I have 26.3k on my Civic Si and it runs like new even though it's had oil changes at 9500, 18000, and will have the next one next week. I seriously doubt my engine is going to sieze by 100k as the Doomsday preachers predict.
Is Honda shortening their factory recommended interval? I wonder why that is.
On my '99 CR-V the "normal" interval is 7,500 miles and the "severe" interval is 3,750 miles. I suspect it was the same for your '91 and '94.
On newer Hondas the "normal" interval is 10,000 miles and the "severe" interval is 5,000 miles. So the intervals are longer, not shorter.
At highway speeds (70-75 MPH) the normal tach reading of just under 4,000 RPM began fluctuating between 2,000 and 5,000 with no noticable change in actual engine RPM.
No other symtoms were apparent, engine temp was normal and operation seemed normal.
Can anyone suggest problem, trouble shooting and solution?
I think my Ford is 3K, just got car from wife, and put in Mobil 1, so it's gonna get the 5Kplus oil change treatment. Her new Merc. Sable w/Duratec 30 recommends 5K and synthetic. Good to know someone is thinking straight, somewhere.:)
Didn't Toyota have a sludge problem with their 3.0?
My take is more like: the 3k oil changes are more like belt and suspenders type of "dreaming"
Lets just put it this way, Honda is not above trying to deny REMOTE engine warranty claims within the meager warranty period of 3 years/ 36,000 miles.
Thankfully, Honda DOES NOT unlike some of Toyota's have engines that operate at temperatures that literally "COOK" the oil, that will over time cause coking. The real long term answer is redesign those engines that operate OUT of the heat range the oil is designed to run. Since Toyota's warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles, and they really DID/do NOT want to redesign it or recall them, their answer is to change the oil more often, which does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about the oil "cooking" and then coking. They basically cover the real PITA people with the "secret" warranty.
While I understand the host/hostess wants to stay on topic, to me it is pretty germane in that I was pretty sour about certain Toyota's from my own experiences with the Toyota Camry 1985 at app the 75,000 mile mark. So this is by no means a new problem. (2005-1985)=20 years.
I changed oil religiously between 2,500-3,000 miles(Catrol GTX). This of course did NOTHING to stop the massive coking. The neatest thing from Toyota's point of view is at 36,001 ANY engine repairs are now on YOUR nickel. So at app 75,000 miles when a part of the engine failed and let all the oil stream out they steadfastly stuck to their position that the warranty was indeed up. As they began the tear down procedure to assess the damage, it was more than easy to see the engine was massively coked up. Just this portion of the repairs started off at 1,500 and then ended up at app 2700 dollars.
Needless to say I was not very pleased. I have to say however in all fairness, they did invoke the "secret warranty". (Perhaps I met their criterion for being a PITA. ) Unbeknownst to me this model also had brake pad and rotor and suspension problems. They at no charge replaced the brake pads, rotors, springs, shocks, and struts, etc.
I also at the time had a Honda Accord manual transmission that in effect ran like a top, but I did get rid of it also, due to guilt by association of being a 4 cylinder engine. : ( .
Upshot is this is a round about way of saying for a number of years I would not go near these belt driven 4 cylinder engines!
So the upshot is 1. don't get the engines that cook oil and then coke 2. Honda Civic (the one I have) does not have the engines that do this 3. I am good to go to 9/10k on ExxonMobil Superflo5w20 or to 20,000 after the meager warranty period of 3 years/36,000 miles with Mobil One 0w20.
I have a 1995 very basic Civic Hatchback DX, no power steering, manual drive. Overall it is in very good shape and I do take good care of it (this a 'previously owned' car). But I found out the radiator has a "slight leak" and it will cost more than $500 to replace it. I looked into buying a Honda radiator for my model and found one online for a pretty good price, but the garage I use refuses to install it. I know that having a perfect radiator is of critical importance, but I also don't have more than $500 to replace it right now. It's winter, does that help keep the engine cool? Are there any effective, short-term solutions? Thank all of you for your help.
So if a radiator costs say 200-250 dollars that means shop time of 250-300 at your areas going rate.(3 hrs app)
I replaced one on a Toyota Landcruiser, after being welded in serveral places and times, but the part wholesale was 399. and it was 200 in labor. The problem occurred at the 12 year mark and very close to 214k miles.
Thank you for the info. I know the radiator itself has cracks, but that the leaking is not too bad. I didn't mention spot welding, but my mechanic didn't mention spot welding as an option when I asked if there were short-term solutions. I don't drive a lot, but do need a dependable vehicle when I do, and I certainly don't want to kill the motor. And I realize I will have to replace the radiator eventually, but I would like to put it off for a while if I can.
I have a 1995 very basic Civic Hatchback DX, no power steering, manual drive. Overall it is in very good shape and I do take good care of it (this a 'previously owned' car). But I found out the radiator has a "slight leak" and it will cost more than $500 to replace it. I looked into buying a Honda radiator for my model and found one online for a pretty good price, but the garage I use refuses to install it. I know that having a perfect radiator is of critical importance, but I also don't have more than $500 to replace it right now. It's winter, does that help keep the engine cool? Are there any effective, short-term solutions? Thank all of you for your help.
If I am not mistaken the 1995 has the "half sized" radiator, where the A/c core and radiator are side by side, instead of one behind the other. Replacing a radiator is even easier with this configuration. The online dealer's price for OEM radiator (Denso) is $201.
You would have to look at it to see if you have to remove the bulkhead or just undo the bushings and slide it out, after disonnecting the hoses and removing the fan. I replaced a few radiators on varyous Honda's and it may take you, the first time, a good portion of a saturday morning. After a while you can do it with the eyes closed.
try these for cheaper OEM parts
East coast: http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com/(Connecticut), http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catdisplay.jsp (Rhode Island)
Mid West http://www.hparts.com (Oklahoma)
West coast http://www.handa-accessories.com/
The reason I offer the dealer by locality is because they may give you free shipping if you are in their region. I can vouch for Fairhondapartsforyou, I was so impressed with their service, that I ended up buying my Si from them. If you call them and buy from them mention to John that Dave (black Si) sent you, and he will cut you a better deal. I have sent a lot of people there. I think a few from Edmunds actually ended up buying cars from them too.
HandA are good too, but they are on the west coast and shiping take a week and costs a bit.
Most of them would not list the parts on the website, except for Majestic Honda, so you would have to call them.
I have bought from Hparts back in the late 90's, they were the pioneers of the OEM internet parts dealers.
The "stop leak" is a very temporary solution and may clog up the cooling passages in the engine. All it is a bunch of copper flakes with some binder that "supposedly/allegedly" seals up the leaks from the inside. Would you in the right mind put metal flakes in your cooling system? I wouldn't. This is for a crooked used car salesman to seel a junker that does not leak on the parking lot. If you really want a temporary solution, that would not harm the engine, seal it form the outside with JB weld, but once summer comes, you would still need a new radiator.
Don't forget that you can not use generic antifreeze, when buying radiator (if you do go ahead with replacement) ask them for the HOnda OEM 50/50 antifreeze. Honda water pumps are very sensitive to silicates present in regular "off the shelf" antifreeze. Silicates act as abrasive in the water pump.
If you are new to Honda, there a re few fluids that should only be OEM: Antifreeze, power steering fluid (does not apply to you), ATF fluid (does not apply to you), and rear differential fluid (does not apply to you)
Good luck.
P.S. You can get a Chilton, Hayes or Helms repair manual for your car. Helms is the best, but also the priciest ($70), Hayes is OK and decent price, Chilton is the least attractive but cheap ($10 at auto zone).
Up to you, I guess I like the luxury and keep replacing mine. I have noticed recently in my local autoparts store that one of the aftermarket vendors has a part number for the cabin filter. My store didn't stock, so not sure of the price.
On-linde parts dealers may sell the filters cheaper, I don't remember how much it was exactly from Fair Honda, but it was cheaper than retail.
Ron M.
Ron M.
You can probably install Center console from the EX. I don't see why it would not fit. It has armrest and storage compartments.
P.S. Like the previous poster said, go to the top banner and get the arm rest from the site sponsor. Not a bad deal for $42.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/civint01.html
Check the brake pads for wear, change the brake fluid, check the rotors for wear. The actual numbers are in the Helms shop manual. Since you bought the car at auction, you probably don't know the history, might as well do a complete tune up, not the cheapo $40 at the gas station, but the one by the book for the closest 15,000 mile interval (15,000-30,000-45,000-60,000-75,000.. and so on)
If memory serves me right, the keyless entry receiver is in the stock radio on the 97 EX. Many people found out that they lost keyless entry when they upgraded to aftermarket radios. Some shops, would leave the radio behind the dash, and wire the sound to the new radio while leaving the leyless wired to the old radio.
Considering the cost of the stock radio at the dealer, it may be much cheaper to install an aftermarket alarm with keyless entry option. The rage on those is quite long, and you get an alarm as well. BJ's/Costco have a remote car starter with alarm and keyless entry for DIY for $80 some.
Sometimes, especially to the right, the car pulls BADLY. Sometimes I even have to drive with the sterring wheel "cocked" to a degree. The alignments always showed it was in "specs" so I just assumed there was something wrong with the tires and now finely (hopefully) the problem will be resolved. (NOTE, yes the pressure was checked in tires, could " balancing" have been the problem? I was told NO by a "tire guy" so I never thought more about it, but the more I think about it now, the more it seems at least like a possibly.)
Can you give me some insight??
I have a 2004 Civic VP with 5000 miles and it tracks straight as an arrow except for highly crowned roads- where it does tend to track more to the right. You don't mention your rotation cycles, but in the Honda it is like 10,000 miles. So either you are traveling a lot of miles or rotating your tires too much. Rotations can be a catch 22 in that when you rotate them to the new position, it will track differently. The good news is that it evens out the wear, the bad news is that particular position will continue to wear the tire down.
When you have a bad tires causing pulling issues.
The good news is your tires, if they are evenly worn between outer, middle, inner, indicates balance and alignment are ok.
Since you are in Cali, and I assume in southern Cali, you almost never see snow, Yokohama may be the best bang for the buck. I had the Avid T4' son my CR-V and they were the best dry/wet tire, but the worst snow tire. They were quieter than OEM, but because of the softer compound I had to jack up the tire pressure to 36 to stop the tire from squirming in corners.
Right now I have Bridgestone Potenza RE 950 on the Civic and they are good wet/dry tire, and a little bit better in the snow than Yokos were. But not as good in the snow as the OEM Michellins.
As far as where to buy, Costco is good Brick and mortar place, in fact there is coupon in "the passport" for $60 off Michellins or Bridgestones. I got mine last summer when Costco had $80 off, but I bought the tires at ETD as they were able to beat the Costco price. Tirerack is an excellent place to get tires, and probably one of the few retailers that carry Yokohama tire.
In general, most tire shops will match Tirerack's price+shipping+installation. Costco used to install tires not bought there for $10/tire, but since they went to Nitrogen fill I don't think they install tires not bought there any longer.
BTW the OEM tire should have lasted you at least 45K miles.
Lastly, if you need to balance a tire the first time it's put on, why would it not be done all the other times?? (Note: I have had a TON of flats) (3 in just 3 weeks for starters!!) and they never re balanced the tires, ever.