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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Has anyone out there experienced this quirky defect?
Thanks.
The dealership, out of a "clear blue sky" when I was in for my first oil service, informed me the rt. front strut was ordered, just this week..and they would notify me when it came in, for a date to install...
There never was any real doubt on my part that it was that strut; I have heard many bad shock units in my life, and when you hear one, you know when you hear another....it was a matter of getting them to agree...
Guess my trouble "may" be over...
Regards all, John (ellll)
good luck.
Apparently this is fairly common with Honda exhausts (or so he said) - there is a small part inside of the exhaust that can become dis-lodged. When this happens it does not do any damage to the ex. system, but it rattles around the inside and cannot be removed unless you dismantle the entire exhaust (not worth it!). If you have the car up on a lift, the mechanic can probably show you exactly where the noise is orinigating. So keep driving it until you can't stand the noise anymore. Hope that helps!
Is it easy to change the engine air filter of a 2004 1.7L Civic without vtech? And how, please?
Thanks.
TTB
1) Three weeks ago when this happened the first time my mechanic suggested changing the main relay.
2) Then the check engine light came on within a day. The mechanic claimed to 'clean' the Oxygen sensors, but within minutes of getting the car back it came on again.
3) I then went to the dealer and the dealer found a crack in the exhaust manifold. Got that changed for an arm and a leg
4) Still the check engine light came back on, so I went back to th dealer and had to get the primary Oxygen sensor changed as well.
5) Again the light came back on within a few hours, so the dealer looked at it, and it now appears my secondary oxygen sensor is out. They have ordered the part and will change it (will not charge for labor though) in two weeks.
6) This morning once again the engine wouldnt start - turning over, but no ignition. After 30 minutes it kicked in, white smoke, then fine. A little sputtering, some hesitation upon acceleration, but then its fine.
Someone mentioned vapor lock, I asked my mechanic but he shrugged it off. I dont think the guy knows what to do. So I want to go back to the dealer. But before I do so, I'd like some informed suggestions from folks on this forum if possible. Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long note.
p.s. I installed an air filter (from OReillys) about two months ago which appears dirty now. Could this cause any of the starting problems?
Most interesting about front struts/..several models inc Civic seem to have failures..Sorry to hear of two being bad on the ref. above from lilhartastone..others also have had problems..
(The following is on my overall satisfaction...)
I would like to report for me however, after a 6800 mile "tour" in my 2006 Civic over the last two weeks..It is much as advertised...and then some. I am MUCH more happy now..Got 47+ MPG in the high plains of Texas...at 70 MPH...Averaged 43+ for the trip, at 60 to 75 MPH all on sec. roads..(Only short stretches of interstate...most roads in the west of USA are now at 70 mph..)
Very minor road noise for the size and everything worked great, inc. stereo, air, and controls as far as I can tell...
It has very little trouble in the passes, (Wolf Creek/Monarch and others at 10,500 ft+ to around 12,000..some really hard approaches ..tho' you have to use revs...)...The control at speed in mountian curves is really good for a small sedan...(and the strut on my rt. front performed fine, tho' the noise is distracting on small bumps , STILL..!! It wll be repaired, no cost to me, in the next few weeks...waiting on the part)..
I am pleased, overall and would buy another in a minute...and to all complainers in general..if you are not getting reasonable MPG and performance you must really drive hard...Maybe you need a sport coupe..BMW or sim...
I get 29-35 MPG here at home, in town according to "how much the foot is on the floorboard"..Floorboard operation will cut you down a lot, you know..(I have been known to drive too agressively in town)...
My Regards, to all, John (ellll)
And also check to see if the timing belt was changed. Your owner's manual should list when it should be changed. If you don't have one, you should be able to download one from Honda's website. My guess is that it's over due. Call all the convenient Honda shops for a quote, and assuming your Civic is like my 99 CRV, have them also change the water pump and accessory belts. They usually have "timing belt replacement" special packages that include all that and a loaner car. My CRV was $600. Good luck.
Honda's as a rule run very very clean. I ran the first 10,000 mile OCI with conventional oil (factory fill actually) on my 2004 Honda Civic. The second OCI I switched to 0w20 Mobil One (synthetic) till 20,000 miles, where I also changed the oil filter for the first time. I currently am running a 20,000 mile OCI with Mobil One 0w20 where I will change the oil and oil filter at 40,000 miles or every other oil change or 20,000 miles. The thing runs like the proverbial top. It gets a range of 37-42 mpg in a plain jane 54 mile R/T daily commute.
I really can't answer your concerns on the Audi A4 but I run the VW Jetta TDI product with 25,000 mile OCI's with Mobil One 5w40, and IT runs like the proverbial top also.
Sometimes they say don't change the very first factory oil for some minimum period of time if it is a special "break-in oil" that doesn't do its job if over anxious owners rush out to change it at 500 or 1,000 miles due to 1970's-era fear of "metal shavings" in the oil.
More likely it says 10,000 miles is the recommended service interval for normal driving and more often for severe driving (such as driving mostly very short trips where the car doesn't warm up properly or daily bumper to bumper traffic commuting.) I'm sure they have an alternate interval for whatever they consider qualifies as severe driving or a maintenance minder sensor can monitor your driving conditions and set the maintenance required light to turn on at an appropriately adjusted time/mileage based on that.
One other question;
I was informed if you choose to go with synthetic oil for any car, you cannot go back to using regular oil. I am considering the use of synthetic oil, but is this true?
Thanks.
oil change system but the dealer says to change the oil every 5000 miles.The book does say if the system does
not indicate a need for oil change after a year to change it anyway.I think I should do what Honda says not what the dealer says.
So for example I have a car with an OLM and the factory fill is Mobil One 5w30. The way I drive the vehicle triggers the oil change indicator to go on at 14,500 to 14,800 miles for a recommended 15,000 mile OCI.
Modock
I read the manual, it says that the pc card slot uses Compact Flash or PCMICA? cards. I put a CF card in there, and its obviously not meant for it. Now its stuck in there, loosely slideing around. How the heck do I get it out? Is there a way to remove the navi headunit? Should I try using coathangers? HOW THE HECK DO I USE THE PC CARD SLOT!??! Anyone have a link or picture of what equipment I need?
Here is what you should do:
1. Buy a CF Adapter from Amazon for about $7
Here is its name: SanDisk SDDR-64-768 Compact Flash
to PC Card Adapter
2. Carefuly using a twizer and flashlight; open the slot
of Navi PC card slot and get that CF module out of it
3. Put the CF module in the Adapter carefuly in correct
direction.
5. Put the CF&Adapter in your Laptop and load it up with
good Music
6. Take out CF&Adapter from Laptop and then put in EX Navi
PC Card Slot
7. Enjoy the music
At least the warning says "Check fuel cap." Instead of the vague and multipurpose "check engine" warning most cars give when you drive while the fuel cap is not screwed on correctly.
Two weeks later it did it again. Now the thing comes on every time I start the car. I've checked and checked the cap and door. Each time it appears to be fine. I take my car in for an oil change in a couple of weeks and am going to have them document it.
I think after driving for twenty years, I can close the gas cap properly.
Tell your dealer to look in "Service News." It says the fix for this problem is the right side engine mount.
However, I just had this engine mount replaced and the noise still remains.