Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Why post that on a Honda Civic forum?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,482
    Hi deev1,

    You need to re-post your question here:

    Pontiac Grand Am Topic
  • csturdycsturdy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 Civic DX-G and have what sounds like the same noise coming from front dirver's side, also when going over dips in the road. I had my car in 2-3 times for service and still have the noise. Had a pebble removed from the shock mount and sway bar lubrucated but the noise is still there (and still irritating). The only difference between my case and yours is that (a) mine is an older model and (b) my car only developed the noise within the last 6 months.

    My current solution: turn up the volume on the radio.
    My long-term solution: keep taking it to Honda until my extended warranty runs out in January 06.
  • fe203fe203 Member Posts: 21
    There is a pivot inside the Trans housing that probabaly needs to be lubricated or worst case replaced. Very small part/componet but is most likely what is causing the noise.
  • vazzvazz Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a honda civic also and i had the same problem its not your oxygen sensor its the trottle sensor that you have to replace its in the back by your fuel injectots this will fix your problem and the lite will turn off and remenber to replace your fuse the cpu fuse alsothan your car will run normal again
  • mahjijanmahjijan Member Posts: 2
    I too own a 98 honda civic and have the same problem. Were you given any advice that you can pass on?
  • mahjijanmahjijan Member Posts: 2
    My keyless entry stopped working. I replaced the battery. Then I had to reprogram the keyless entry. If you still have the factory radio, its easy to do so. Turn your ignition switch, with your key, to ON/II. Then, there is a button between the AM/FM button and the CD/TAPE button. Press and hold it in until you hear the locks cycle. Release. Then press either LOCK or UNLOCK (doesn't matter which one) on the keyless entry until you hear the locks cycle. You should be good to go!

  • fschweigerfschweiger Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 ex model i was wondering if there is a radio code for this car , i have to change the batter and am afraid to lose the radio, civic ex
  • drh1175drh1175 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 95 DX 5speed. Nice little car. I bought it for commuting because it's known reliability. It has a rather loud ticking sound when excelerating through the gears. Seems to go away at highway cruising speeds? Is this normal and what is it. I was curious if it is the engine, tranny, or CV joints or something to that. Should I worry about it or just keep on driving. It has 160k on it.
  • jdignanjdignan Member Posts: 1
    94 honda civic, suggestions for: vibration, engine knock, not a smooth start when in first gear, only until vehicle is really warm. This only happens in first gear.
  • jettagurljettagurl Member Posts: 1
    Stats: 1997 honda civic ex, i purchased certified from a honda dealership, since i had all Maintenance done as scheduled, 163,00 miles

    Symptoms: When pulling off from a stop, car feels like it is sliding on ice. Last week check engine light came on.

    What i've done: (midfeb - march) when i first noticed slipping took it to the dealership & he said it could be my transmission going bad. (april) check engine light came on one day after adding new type of oil in car (10w-30 usually 5w-30) . I took it back to the honda dealership and they said i need a new transmission, oil pan gasket, rear trailing arms & a wheel costs $5,000. I though that was too much so I took it to another shop & the said that my gear selector switch (installed for $300) needed to be replaced... he couldn't gurantee how long it would fix the problem.

    My Question: is it worth it to spend $5000 on a ten year old car w/ 163,000 miles????
  • mkterrymkterry Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Honda Civic Hx. I have had no previous problems with the car. It has 183,000 miles, and runs pretty good. Yesterday I was driving and it began to overheat. I took it to the mechanic and he told me it would be at least $700 to fix. It has some other minor problems, and I am just wanting to know if I should spend $700 on a car that is almost 10 years old. Any suggestions??
  • crusher1crusher1 Member Posts: 9
    Do you 1st trust this mechanic, if not take it somewhere else to get another estimate. Also check out the other minor problems. If you repair vehicle and runs well, its was $$ well spent, as where can you buy a vehicle that would run as well as yours for $700.00.
    Do what I had to do, I had an 87 Toyota Corolla, that ran well, and it failed the air quality test, so what should I do? I decided to repair at $600 but wife overruled so I had no choice as she wanted a "new Honda 2006 Civic EX . I made a financially bad choice ( as cheaper to repair old vehicle), but now I have a happier wife.

    CHEERS !!!
  • slorenzenslorenzen Member Posts: 694
    Any issues with this car? Any "teething problems" that would make me wait until '07?

    I test drove, and it seems like a nice commuter...
  • mkterrymkterry Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. I actually have to install a new engine now, but at least then I can trade it in when I get a new car. How you do you like your new civic? I am probably going to get a new one in a couple of months, but havent gotten a chance to ride in one yet.
  • slowpedalerslowpedaler Member Posts: 62
    I have an EX 5M Coupe which I'm very happy with. There were some reports of early Canadien-built cars having gasket separation at the front and rear windshields, but these reports seem to have dissapated. My Canada car was built this month and seems fine. I would always recommend waiting for the second-year encore on a new design if you can but, I didn't take my own advice. I needed a car now, I love the new Civic, and I like hearing, "So, that's the new Civic huh?"!
  • chadrappchadrapp Member Posts: 35
    After having the timing serviced on my wife's 02 Civic the next day the check engine light came on and now the SRS light is on. I have to take it in to the dealer tomorrow. Is this just a coincidence that it happened after the dealer's service or should I suspect the lights are related to something the service department might have done incorrectly?
  • 2003hcivic2003hcivic Member Posts: 7
    Ok.. so first let me start by saying... I'm a 22 female, who sadly really knows VERY little about my car...or any car for that matter.

    I have a 2003 Honda Civic.. I bought it brand new, I've done all it's maintenance, and it just hit 100k... I commute about 200 miles per day. At about 90k I had to replace my alternator, and shortly after that my battery. The only thing that changed in my car at those times that maybe could have been a sign was that my heater would be blowing & all of a sudden the hot air would turn cold.. the blowing wouldn't lessen, just be cold. When I explained this to Honda, they said this was not possible. Needless to say, my alternator & battery were they replaced just a couple weeks later, so I figured it had something to do with that (even though I've been told it doesn't) So... even after my alternator & battery were fixed it only took about 1 week before my heater started doing this again... it would happen most often when I would come to a stop light or if I put my car in park and let it continue to run. I asked Honda about it again, and still.. of course, nothing wrong. And did I mention that everytime I bring it in there, they are charging me $160 for a diagnostic test... so far I've paid for 4.. @ 3 different Honda dealers.. in the last 3 months.. I am getting very frustrated.

    Well, here's where the real problem starts.. about 3 weeks ago, I was driving to work.. and I was already driving local (was no longer on the freeway) and my temperature thing just all of a sudden shot up to HOT... even though there was no difference in the way my car was driving, I immediately pulled over. Turned it off, and then looked @ my coolant (Surprisingly, I do know that much) I didn't see any problem.. the white plastic thing had coolant in it-- so I assumed it was not empty in the other part. So.. I turned it back on.. and it went down... Obviously I took it back to Honda.. and of course.. can you guess? STILL, they can't find anything wrong with it.. but they didn't have a problem charging me the $160 again.. so.. this weekend..similar problem, except this time I had the car in park, and I had ran into a gas station for directions, when I came back, the gauge thing was all the way @ HOT again... I turned my heater on full blast, like one of my friends had recommended-- and the temperature went back down to normal. So.. this was about 4 days ok.. no problems... Now...this morning.. again.. almost all the way to work, and it starts to overheat.. I turn the heater on, it goes down.. except then the heater starts blowing cool, and then it starts to overheat again... and it keeps doing this, the heater blows cold, the car goes to hot, the heater blows hot, and the car goes back to normal.. Anyone know what this is? I am in desperate need to get this fixed. Someone please help me?!?! Thank you!!
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    I'm not familar with the 03 Civic, but it sounds like you could have air pockets trapped in your cooling system. On my other cars, there's usually a air bleed off valve on the expansion tank chamber or radiator. Open it a bit, start the car up and turn the heater to max hot and full blast. Air bubbles should coome out as coolant begins to fill the air pockets. You'll need to top off the coolant when your done.

    If your not loosing coolant, then there's no leak... that's def. good.

    Other options inlucde a stuck thermostat. It's an inexpensive part, but labor will get you.

    Instead of spending $150+ per visit, I would recommend you get your coolant flushed and replace the thermostat, water pump, hoses, etc. while your in there. This should save you on labor costs.

    Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,482
    tygger's guesses sound pretty good to me, too. At least a coolant flush, new thermostat and a proper air bleed of the system sound like a LOT better approach than going back to the lame dealer. Seems to be a bad water pump is a more remote possibility given the symptoms but not entirely out of the question. Opening the heater causes the coolant to circulate through the heater core, and this can contribute to cooler running.

    By the way, are you QUITE certain your electric cooling fan is running when it should? Usually, overheating at idle is a cooling issue and overheating at speed is a circulation issue.

    So before you replace anything, you should have a mechanic make sure your electric cooling fan is kicking in when it should.
  • lorettsloretts Member Posts: 21
    I have a 1988 DX hatchback. It failed inspection for a few things, one being a cracked amber turn signal lense cover. I have searched the internet for a replacement, but am finding that I cannot buy just the lense for this particular model. Seems I have to buy the whole unit. Has any one had to replace this part themselves? Is it any easy, "just unscrew a few screws, pull the old one out and put the new one in" job?

    It also has a leaky exhuast and I was told I need to replace the front pipe. Can someone give me an idea on cost? The mechanic who looked at it said it woudl be about $300. Seems like alot.
    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • 2003hcivic2003hcivic Member Posts: 7
    In regards to the two responses... I did have the electric fan checked, and they did say it was functioning correctly.. and actually as I am typing this, my thermostat is being replaced. They did find a little bit of wetness on the top of my radiator, but at this time, they are unsure of whether it is because I spilt, or if there is a VERY small leak.. they did say, however, that if there is a leak, the leak is so minor that it should not affect my driving... they did say that they are having trouble filling it.. whatever that means.. and that that is caused usually by the thermostat... so... I will keep you all updated with what happens today & on my drive home tonight.. :)(if I get it back today) Thanks for your help, and please continue to throw any other ideas you may have out there. :):) Thank you sooooo much!
  • slowpedalerslowpedaler Member Posts: 62
    The flush/replace thermostat sounds like a good start to me but, you also need to talk to someone at American Honda about why a 22-year-old girl keeps getting charged a hundred and sixty bucks and sent away with no diagnosis. No one mentioned air pockets or flushing the system? That's ridiculous.
  • repunzlerepunzle Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a '94 civic in the last month. Last night I turned the engine off but didn't bother to turn off the lights because I was only going to be 5 minutes. When I tried to start the car again it was dead. :( I'm guessing this means I need a new battery. My real problem however is that after trying to start the car and failing I opened the door to get out and the alarm went off. Pressing the button on the remote did nothing. A friendly neighbor eventually found some wires that when separated turned the alarm off. I drove the car home (SRS light blaring red the entire time), double checked the lights and the radio and pulled the key out. To my dismay the parking lights, dash lights, license plate lights and interior light remained on. I tried to find a way to turn them off, but again in a few minutes the car was dead. :sick:

    Did I fry the electrical system when I killed my car? Do I simply need to reconnect the wires that turned the alarm off? If so why did the alarm fail to turn off from the remote (the remotes light responded to button pushing) I get the feeling a new battery is no longer the solution (perhaps it never was). Can anybody tell me what's going on and perhaps give me some idea what it will take to fix my car?

  • 2003hcivic2003hcivic Member Posts: 7
    Yes.. I completely agree.. I am hoping when I finally do figure out what is wrong, I will go directly to Honda, and request a credit towards the total bill. I'm sure it will nearly be impossible, but I am hoping. A similar situation happened when I had to replace my alternator... I had taken my car in 3 times before my car actually died on me, and they specifically told me that my battery and alternator was fine, and to bring it in the next time it was acting up... well.. the next time it acted up I was stranded.. 100 miles away from home.. after hours.. so.. needless to say.. Honda was not contacted until Monday, and by then I had the alternator replaced. Just really irritating that none of my lights on my dash tell me there is something wrong...all of a sudden my car just gives on me.. very frustrating.
  • slowpedalerslowpedaler Member Posts: 62
    By the way, you mentioned that they had a hard time filling your coolant. That's also evidence of air pockets. If they didn't know that they don't belong in that service bay.
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    First, I would look into going to another dealer. Are you out of warranty? I'm guessing so... You may even want to look into an independent shop.
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    Have you checked ebay? Might be able to find a used one for cheap...

    $300 seems high for fixing a "pipe." You need to find out what exactly is wrong with you exhaust system. Is it just the pipe, the cat. converter, ??? For about that much money, you could by a whole new cat-back exhaust.

    If it's just a hole from rust or something like that, take it to a muffler shop and they should be able to patch it up for <$100.
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    Sounds like your alarm is the culprit. If your alarm is wired incorrectly or if something came un-done, it could cause lights to come on and inadvertenly kick-on your alarm's ignition kill (if you have that feature).

    But it could be from a bad alternator or battery as well. Electrical components can be finnicky and at up when the supplied power is too low/high. Get a multimeter and check your battery's voltage (+12.0) or take it to a free test location like at Autozone. Then start your car and check the supplied voltage to see if your alt. is producing enough power (+14.0v)
  • 2003hcivic2003hcivic Member Posts: 7
    Yes.. I am out of warranty.. I bought it brand new, so it only comes with 3 years, 36k miles... which with my commute, was gone in the first year...

    An update on my car..I did get my car back in time yesterday to drive it home, it seems to be fine now, the temperature is even lower then it was initially.. not much, but a bit, since they replaced the thermostat. I will bring it back to the shop this morning to check to see if there is a leak or not in the radiator. It's hard to tell if it's fixed or not, because my car didn't start driving any differently in the 1st place. But, it didn't overheat.. so I guess that is a big difference.

    Oh.. and about the independent shop... I wouldn't mind taking it to an independent shop, but there's not really any shop I trust.. so at least with Honda, I know whatever they break further... they will have to fix, and Honda Corp. will back that up. So I guess I just feel more comfortable for the time being.
  • silverdemonssilverdemons Member Posts: 9
    I got a 2006 Civic Couple LX after feeling like my CRV was a touch too big for me...

    Since I got it in February...I've put 6000 miles on it. (I commute 200 miles a day)

    Issues though...
    1) The rattling noises at low speeds/idle which quite a few of you have described.
    2) Cosmetic stuff - like the drivers side trim that connects the door handles outer edge the the "suede" (is that really suede?) constantly comes loose and has to be clicked back into place...I'm also having issues with what appear to be cigarette burns in the headrest...i do not and will not smoke in my I'm not sure what the deal is with that...and the dealerships I've spoken with have actually told me it's a fabric tear (no way no how, it's burned, obviously). I could care less...and want them replaced with ones that don't have burn marks in them, but they have yet to do that for me. The sun visors fall out of the clip regularly.
    3) RPM sticks and won't back down. I got up to about 93 mph (for the fun of it) and the RPM stuck at around 3500 and would not back down, feeling like it wouldn't shift gears until the speed got down to around 60 mph...I cannot get confirmation of a Governor on the car so I'm not sure if that's what's causing it. Anyone know about that?
    4) a rattling from what sounds like under the car itself...loud at low speeds.
    5) the idle is extremely loud...even without the rattling noise.
    6) the flexibility what so ever. once it's clicked in, it's almost impossible to even move to reach the stereo.

    I have a massive laundry list of issues that the dealerships thus far are saying "huh...haven't heard that one." and not willing to look at it saying "it's a new car, you need to break it in and that stuff will go away". This is three dealerships in Southern California (SD and LA area).

    I'm wondering if anyone else has had any of the same issues and if they have, what you've done to convince the dealerships to look at it!? I'm frustrated with this. I'm about ready to hand in the keys and get an older model again.

    Help anyone?
  • slowpedalerslowpedaler Member Posts: 62
    Not to put too fine a point on it, either you're really sensitive or you got a crappy car. My EX Coupe has some minor noise at low speed but I've never driven a car with semi-sporty suspension that didn't. It certainly isn't what I would call loud, though, and I'm pretty sensitive.

    Is your car often parked in direct sunlight? I'm thinking the sun is burning your headrests through that gigantic horizontal windshield!

    Unless you're lunging toward the radio the seatbelt shouldn't be restricting you. I have short arms so have to lean a bit to get to it and have no problem.

    I would insist your dealer fix the interior and, while it's there, let you take another LX home for the night. What is it with all these reports of Honda dealers blowing people off anyway? Don't take it.
  • silverdemonssilverdemons Member Posts: 9
    I take no offense...i am really sensitive...coming from another Civic that I had no issues with, and a CRV the same, and getting a brand new car (the other two were used) I'm upset that I'm hearing all these noises and things are falling off or loose. At least with a used car it's more accepted and expected.

    I am parked in direct sunlight quite a bit...good point, but these burns are on the underside of the headrest where the sun doesn't hit them. Good thought though...note to self to buy sun visors quickly.

    I'm not lunging at all...but I get no give from the seatbelt. They've checked it and they say that's normal, which confuses me since it has no give as I said before.

    I'm working with a new (to me) dealership in the LA area that appears to be more than willing to take a look at least. Hopefully they'll help out. If not, I'm more than happy to turn in the keys and walk away. I too have heard many people say the same thing about the dealerships I've visited (only after i've visited unfortunately) and many more comments about other dealerships I've considered going to that match fairly the same in that they just pawn you off saying things are "normal". Myself being female, I'm if that has something to do with it. Perhaps they just pawn us ladies off as "loose nuts behind the wheel". ;) Might just have to send the man in with the car to see if that takes care of it.

    Thanks for your thoughts :)
  • slowpedalerslowpedaler Member Posts: 62
    Just to be clear, my "sensitive" comment was intended to be humorous. I'm concerned that you really may have a bad Civic. I think you need to go for a long drive in another one to see how yours compares. Coupes already have a reputation for some road noise but yours might be excessive.
  • silverdemonssilverdemons Member Posts: 9
    I truly do appreciate your comments. I giggled at your sensitive comment initially, but I realize I may be oversensitive to all the noises as well.

    I took the car in for an oil change yesterday afternoon (my goodness...has it already been time for an oil change?!) and much to my dismay, was told "the headrest will be such and such a charge, we can't account for the handles coming loose, it looks fine to us and the "noise" is "normal" and if you really want us to look at it, we'll need it for A WEEK". No can do. Especially since they seem to have done away with loaner vehicles at most dealerships. Renting a car doesn't seem like something I should have to do given it's a leased vehicle and well under factory warranty (7K miles, here we come!).

    Funny thing...they couldn't figure out how to reset the computer after they were done with the oil change to have it stop flashing "15% oil life". A honda dealership...unfamiliar with this? So I reset it when I got back in and drove away. Me. The person that bought the car. Am I wrong to be a tad frightened by that? (Thankfully, a very good friend used to work for Honda and taught me quite a bit about how to do the small things...he's since quit and wants nothing more than to never speak of Honda Service again in his lifetime - for the same reasons I don't want to return to his dealership...poor attitude towards customers..."rake in the money, ignore the possibility that it just needs new wipers")

    Anyone know any dealerships that actually care about their customers' happiness? Los Angeles and San Diego area if you do! I'd be happy to give a list of the dealerships i've been to thus far, but I don't want to break any rules by posting them here. I make no objection to driving up to 100 miles as long as the dealership actually shows genuine interest in having my "issues" looked at...and my cars issues as well. ;)
  • chili_pepperchili_pepper Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my honda when it felt like it ran out of gas.Lost power and gradually came to a stop. Had been driving for about 10 minutes.I thought it might be the distributor and bought one, but that wasn't the problem. Any suggestions?
  • slorenzenslorenzen Member Posts: 694
    Have you ever changed your fuel filter?

    If it runs normally for 10 minutes, then loses power, that would likely be the culprit.
  • marlenebmarleneb Member Posts: 2
    My 95 Civic with 110,000+ mi has been running like a champ forever. Now it's a 3rd car, sitting outside and my husband just started driving it to a carpool pickup spot. He's had trouble keeping it running after starting it in the mornings. I drove the car 2 weeks ago for an entire week with no problems. It hasn't had an oil change for a long time, and we'll have a "tune up" done this weekend. But I don't want to get ripped off - what should I expect is the problem?
  • zillmerjzillmerj Member Posts: 1
    Try checking the tension on the drive belt. Loosen (just a bit) the top and bottom mounting nuts on the alternator, and then adjust tension using the wing nut in front of the alt. Tighten mounting bolts.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    No oil change for a long time? And I'd bet the rest of the maintenance items, including the biggie of the timing belt hasn't been done either.

    Marleneb, you are living on borrowed time with that vehicle. Sheesh, it's 11 yrs old, has 110K miles and waaaay behind on maintenance. And you're wondering why it won't stay running?

    My advice, come up with a grand and take it to a trusted mechanic and bring it up to date on maintenance. The timing belt alone along with the water pump and acc. belts will be 5-6 hundred. If you don't have a trusted mechanic, find one through the yellow pages and better business bureau.
  • 2005civiclx2005civiclx Member Posts: 1
    Hi All!
    Thanks to those of you that know what you are talking about and answering some of our questions.
    My Questions are as follows:

    My 05 civic LX (48k mi) makes a weird squeaking noise in reverse (I am assuming brakes..??)
    I am changing the brake pads very soon and would like to know if I need that brake pad softener that they sell at autozone..?

    Also, Does anyone know where besides the dealership I can buy the pollen filter?

    Will changing the brakes be difficult? I have yet to do it on this vehicle and dont want to end up towing it to a shop.
  • njdevil1njdevil1 Member Posts: 45
    It is too bad you do not live closer to Emmaus(Allentown)PA.They still have loaner cars and are excellant when it comes to service. I have a 2005 civic EX SE with manual transmission. Even tho we now live in North Carolina I bring the car to Lehigh Valley Honda. My brother lives in Allentown so I can kill two birds with one stone. Right now the c.d. player is giving me problems. They are going to replace it under warranty the next time I am in town. I just have to give the some advance notice so they can order it.I plan to get a loaner car so I can do somethings while it and other things are getting done.My car has almost 30,000 miles.
  • marlenebmarleneb Member Posts: 2
    Mike - to be a little more specific, the cars stays running once he starts it again and drives off. It doesn't stall at lights or when he stops. And I had no trouble keeping it running when I started it after he told me of this problem. If it is the key to ignition line, could the key he's using have any effect on that - his key is a duplicate, mine is the original.

    At the minimum we're getting a tune up and oil change and that will help us eliminate the cheap stuff. Then on to that more expensive path.

    Anyway, we'll be taking it in soon. I spoke with a dealer and they said if it does keep running (eventually) it's likely not the timing belt. And they said for us to see how the panel lights display, dim or normal or not at all, when this happens and that will help with a diagnosis.

    We have a mechanic but I wanted some input from the dealer too. Thanks.
  • pyrozpyroz Member Posts: 2
    Hi, my driver side is soaked in water and i am trying to find the problem and fix it. I poured water into the holes underneath the wiper blades and water seems to be coming down alot faster on the passenger side then the driver side. While it is gushing out of the passenger side wheel, it is only dripping out on the driver side wheel. I am new to cars and I am 90% sure that my drain holes are clogged. My question is how to unclog these drain holes. I don't know where they are so any help on how to cleaning these holes. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Hmmm, sounds like a tough one. I'm far from an expert mechanic so I can't comment on the stalling, but you're taking the right approach. Do the inexpensive stuff first. And since the ignition turns with either key, then it can't be the key. Good luck.
  • 2003hcivic2003hcivic Member Posts: 7
    Update...on the 2003 Civic Overheating... it is still doing it. The thermostat was replaced, and everyone thought it was fine again.. it went a whole week with not even a little overheating... until last night on my way home-- it overheated again... It's back in the shop, but as of 8:15am, no ideas to what it could be. They can't even get it to overheat... Anyone else have any other suggestions?
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    If it's not trapped air, you must be loosing coolant somewhere. Bad head gaskets???
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    Do you have honda pads on right now? A lot of times, aftermarket pads don't fit as well and will shimmy while in reverse.

    Although replacing pads are cheap, especially if you do it yourself, you may want to make sure that it is in need of replacement. I believe you may have rear drum brakes. Search the internet for how-to's. There are tons of articles. Basics garage tools required...

    As for your filter, you don't need a honda one. Pleces like Autozone, Advanced Auto, Pep Boys and Napa should carry it. Check your local yellow pages.

    I usually order from places like or, etc. They all have simiilar prices. You can order everything from the same place to save on shipping.
  • tyggertygger Member Posts: 59
    Clogged or not clogged, water shouldn't be entering into the cabin.

    This isn't an easy problem to diagnose over the internet. You're going to have to look around and take things apart. I'd start with the plastic cover where you poured water down. The hole is probably on the passenger side and is trickling down to teh driver side.

    Also try looking at night, use a flash light to try to find the hole/crack.
  • slowpedalerslowpedaler Member Posts: 62
    Check under the oil cap. Is it foamy/milky? That's a blown head gasket. Check under the water pump. There'e a little weephole. If there's any coolant coming from the weephole, the water pump is dust. But the first thing I would recommend is have a radiator shop do these checks for you and get it away from the morons you've been working with!
This discussion has been closed.