Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626 Troubles



  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Pretty good. Unfortunately it may be caused by more than one thing. This may happen a few more times. I had the same thing on my 1988, and it took a tuneup, starter motor, fuel filter, replacement of spark plug wires and fuel system cleaning to cure it completely. I would recommend going to an electrical system specialist. They seem to be able to isolate the problem better.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    No, no, no. See, your problem right now is that its not cranking. This is not caused by the distributor, don't panic. The problem posted there means that they are cranking the engine and its not starting. Not that it won't crank at all. All of the other problems listed by mrdetailer (fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc.) would also cause non-starting but cranking symptoms. When it doesn't crank, it has nothing to do with lack of spark or fuel. When it cranks and doesn't start, then all these other things can come into play.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • First of all - if you ever considered buying MAZDA 626 - DON'T. DO NOT. I've learned the hard way. I've read all those posts about severe TRANSMISSION in Fords and Mazdas, especially in Mazda 626. I've seen so many posts about someone buying a new or a new-used Mazda 626 and transmission going out of order in just a few days/weeks/months/miles...Well, I bought 626 (1998 model) exactly a year ago. I just couldn't believe that such a nice car can have such [non-permissible content removed] transmission. Only in America! No majour problems occured until a few weeks ago. Yesterday transmission died....Now I BELIEVE. I lost probably $6000 but now I believe. NO MORE MAZDAS.
    I was thinking about Millenia, but NO. Thanks. No more Mazdas. In normal cars transmissions do not break this...
  • First of all - if you ever considered buying MAZDA 626 - DON'T. DO NOT. I've learned the hard way. I've read all those posts about severe TRANSMISSION in Fords and Mazdas, especially in Mazda 626. I've seen so many posts about someone buying a new or a new-used Mazda 626 and transmission going out of order in just a few days/weeks/months/miles...Well, I bought 626 (1998 model) exactly a year ago. I just couldn't believe that such a nice car can have such [non-permissible content removed] transmission. Only in America! It always been a jerky ride between 1 and 2nd gear. No majour problems occured until a few weeks ago. Yesterday transmission died....Before that just a few days before the "O/D off" light started blinking and the "natural gas" smell started coming out of the engine. Shortly after that transmission failed (died). Now I BELIEVE. I lost probably $6000 but now I believe. NO MORE MAZDAS. I was thinking about Millenia, but NO. Thanks. No more Mazdas. Normal cars do not break transmissions like this...I bought a Nissan Sentra, well, the next day a window lifting mecanism broke...but I do believe that Nissans are good cars. And I hope it's not made in USA... or China...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    So you read all the problems people had with the auto tranny in the 4-cyl. model and you bought one anyway and now your upset that it happened to you? Hey, look, I feel bad for you that you are out the money, but if you knew the problems and the risks and bought one anyway, then I don't think you really can complain all too much.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Well, the MIL light showed up on my $2000 94 626 this morning. I tried to find a post someone mentioned on how to retrieve the code, but couldn't find it. Could someone point me in the right direction?

    The previous owner said he took it to an import mechanic, but they could find no problem. It should store a code, right?

    The car seems to run just great, with the exception of a slightly low/ vibrating idle. Not too worried yet, at least the tranny seems to be just fine. ;-)

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    I'm missing it. What's a MIL light?

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Malfunction Indicator Light, the proper name for the "check engine light". For a list of Mazda DTC's go here:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    Never heard that one before. Just out of curiosity, why is that the proper name? I mean, it does say "Check Engine" on the light.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Just how is it that you are out $6k?

    I have an iceberg I need to get rid of...are you interested?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    That's the Society of Automotive Engineers name for this thing; there is some ongoing effort to unify nomenclature across all car lines, or at least as many as possible. (In my GF4A-EL shop manual, there is an actual Mazda-to-SAE translation table.)

    And anyway, Malfunction Indicator is more useful a description: "Check Engine" means - what? "Yep, there's an engine in there."
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    That's probably the single most useful thing (maybe ONLY "useful" thing) I've learned in an Edmunds discussion. ;)

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    That's what the owner's manual for my 94 calls it. It doesn't say anything on the light itself on mine, it's just some kind of funny symbol.

    I had no idea what it was, so to be on the safe side once I saw it I pulled off into a gas station and shut the car off. I had to look in the manual to figure out exactly what the light meant. I was a little worried it might be teh "oil" light - the symbol kind of looks like that "Alladin" oil-lamp international symbol.

    Thanks for the link. Since I don't have a code reading tool, I'll have to take it in to my mechanic to get it diagnosed. Looks like there's quite a list of things it could be, and I don't really want to start throwing parts at it. If I had to guess I'd say it was the o2 sensor though.

  • In the 94 L4 5spd you can retrieve the codes with a paper clip (technically known as a "jumper") and looking at the flashing MIL. Just go to the site mentioned by alcan (post 1178), or follow this links:

    or: probemx/p_m19.htm

    (there's a space that needs to be removed from the link before 'probemx' to get it to work...

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I just happen to have a box of jumpers right here at my desk.

  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl, 5 spd.with 203k miles. I posted here before when I had the cranking problem. It turns out I was'nt pressing the clutch while starting and hence the problem. Pretty stupid, considering I have had the car for so long.

    Anywayz all this happened because of another problem I 've been having. Its like this :

    Whenever I drive for a long period of time(maybe 45 minutes or more) and shut the car, and try to start immediately afterwards, the car sputters and eventually dies. If I hang around for awhile (maybe 20 minutes or more), it does start. DOes anyone have a clue about this ??

    Sorry about the previous post, and thanks for all the replies.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    I don't really consider this a problem with a high mileage older car. Maybe other people have a different opinion. But, anyway, I have had this issue with most of my older cars. I think somebody once told me it had to do with the car trying to go into "cold start" mode while, in reality, the car was already warmed up because you were just driving it. Regardless, I just avoided shutting it off if I knew I needed to start it up again within a few minutes.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    My battery was weak and the heat assisted it into its grave. If the usual tuneup, change PCV valve, and timing have been adjusted you may have a distributer assembly issue.

    This week, after the battery was replaced, it didn't seem to have much juice, and still had problems starting. It had been timed just last January. The mechanic checked the Distribuor assembly. In my 1991, it has some springs and other mechanisms that advance the speed rather than the usual vacuum. You vehicle is a similar year. They cleaned up the distributor assembly and the car starts easily and has its original pep. They cleaned it up because it is an expensive part to replace.

    Hope this helps.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I'm going to change the oil & filter on the $2000 626 tonight, and I've been thinking of doing the tranny fluid as well. (It's a 5 speed).

    Only problem is, I can't figure out how to fill it. I've located what I believe is the drain plug, but I can't figure out where I'd fill it. The owner's manual only shows the automatic version and makes no mention of how to check the level or change the 5 speed fluid, though it does give a fluid recommendation and capacity.

    Can anybody here help me out? I'm in the process of checking out a Haynes service manual form the local library system, but it won't be in for a few days.

    After a couple of weeks, it's still running and the AC works well. I keep finding little problems with it though. One of the bolts holding the sway bar to a link is broken, it needs new struts, the check engine light comes on once in a while, and the trunk and passenger door key locks are buggered and don't work. The driver's door one still works, but it's loose and I kind of worry about that one breaking too and being locked out. Any words of wisdom for those as well?

  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    With just short of 70k miles on my '97 626 V-6 5-spd, I've just spent a small fortune on the common repair items:

    CV joint boots, both sides
    Valve cover gaskets
    cruise control vacuum line
    Throttle body and intake cleaning

    Interestingly enough, the brakes, which I thought would be needing replaced by now, are still fine, allowing me to pass the state safety inspection.

    Hopefully, I have another 70k miles left in the vehicle without too many major expenses. It's still quick and the V-6 loves to rev!!
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    Did you clean the throttle body and intake yourself? How is that done?
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    My good friends at Rosenthal Mazda took care of all the work....the induction system cleaning was 99.00.

    I've done it in the past, but I always seem to end up tripping the "check engine" light. Basically, what I did was disconnect the air intake from the throttle body, disconnect the wiring harness from the intake tube (is that a mass airflow sensor?), then plug all disconnected vacuum lines.

    Next, I used a Gumout throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush to clean everything I could reach, with and without the engine running.

    The dealer used a BG system, including a product that goes into the tank to clean fuel injectors, etc. I'm not sure how effective the whole thing was; only time will tell.

    Total bill was 1259.00!!!! Ouch!!! The timing belt notwithstanding, this is the only money I've spent on this car apart from tires, so I'm not unhappy. Now, if ten more things break in the next year, I will have to think about a replacement vehicle!!
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    dhoff, check out the following URL's for info on changing the 626 MT oil:

    This site is invaluable if you don't want to spend the $100+ on the factory service manual. I've found it to be very accurate for regular maintenance procedures. The first URL (the site's home page) has some information about halfway down on selecting the proper tranny oil, and the second URL contains the procedure for doing the change.

    The hard part is obtaining the proper oil. None of the local or national auto parts stores in my area carried a decent GL-4 oil of the proper weight. I ended up ordering some Redline MT-90 online, and although it's quite expensive, it was well worth the money. My 626 is only a 2000, with 22K miles, and the tranny was already starting to get "notchy" and difficult to downshift at high speeds (especially in winter). Once I put the synthetic Redline in, and took it out for a spin, I noticed a HUGE improvement right at the first 1-2 shift.

    I don't know if your '94 is the same as my '00, but my fill plug is about 1/3 of the way up on the front of the case, and it's 23mm just like the drain plug. Follow the abovementioned site's instructions exactly, and you should have the job done in minutes. The only thing I would add is don't bother with the turkey baster because it takes forever to pump 4 qts. of fluid in with one. I've got one of those flexible fluid fill tubes from Pep Boys that has a valve on top, and it worked beautifully pouring the oil into it from up where you remove the air box. Furthermore, don't bother with the regular hardware stores to find a 23mm socket for the drain/fill plugs. I had to go to a Napa auto parts store to find one, because it's a fairly odd size that isn't commonly used

    Hope this helps, good luck...

  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Hey slickdog how do SAY the year of your 626? My wife and I love our '00 Freeport with a left-leg-
    flexor attached to 130 ponies.We have about 28.5K
    on her and she has been a trouble free Zoom/Zoom
    since it read 7 on the odometer!!
  • bill_lbill_l Posts: 38
    My 88' 626 is overheating sometimes. There is no
    leakage from the water pump, the radiator seems
    not clogged, new thermostat. But I can feel both
    the lower and upper rubber coolant hoses are very
    stiff when overheating, seems very high pressure
    is in the hoses. Can anyone imaging what could
    be the problem? The water pump is broken or is
    clogged, or other reasons? Any advice will be
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    have the waterhoses also been replaced? Has the Radiator been serviced to remove the junk?

    Radiator shops can clean out the junk.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Thanks for the words of advice. If only I had read them before I changed it...

    I started drainng out the fluid Friday night after work. I got the drain plug out (mine is a 14 mm) and then tried to remove the big fill plug...and couldn't. "Ensure the fill-plug can be removed before removing the drain plug." Sure sounds obvious now... I used a crescent wrench because I didn't have a wrench or socket big enough. My wife was out with the other car, so I couldn't run out to get a wrench, and my neighbor didn't have one big enough either. So I put the car out on the street overnight.

    The next morning I pulled it back in the garage and put the crescent back on the fill plug, so I could take it with me to Sears to get a wrench the right size. Ended up buying a 24 mm, and a can of Liquid Wrench for good measure. Of course it's a 23mm, not 24. So I took the wrench back and bought a nice set of big metric sockets and a 1/2" drive breaker bar for good measure. What a difference having the proper tool makes. It came right off then.

    Sounds like I used the wrong fluid though. The owner's manual calls for GL-4/5, which I assumed meant either 4 or 5 would work, and I used GL-5. According to the links above, sounds like I need 4.

  • bill_lbill_l Posts: 38
    Many thanks for your advices. I did not replace
    the hoses because I'm thinking it's big and should
    not be clogged. If the rediator is clogged, why
    both upper and lower hoses are in the same stiffness?
    I though the lower hose should be soft while the
    upper one is stiff, if the rediator is clogged and
    the pump works fine.

    In addition, I was told that if the pump was worn,
    the coolant could be leaked out from the holes on
    the pump. But I did not see any coolant. That's
    why I am not sure if it's the pump's problem and
    did not replace it.

    Any comments? Thanks.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Sorry to hear you had so much trouble dhoff, wish I had posted sooner.

    You should definitely change out that GL-5 fluid ASAP, unless you can verify with the manufacturer that it does not contain (sulphuric) additives that will corrode the syncros in the 626 tranny. Otherwise, you may end up greatly shortening it's life.

    If you need an alternative oil, and don't want to spend the extra $$$ on Redline and wait for the UPS man to arrive with it, I've heard that both Ford and GM offer MT oils that are safe for brass/bronze syncros. You'd have to verify this with your local dealers.

    As for the manual specifying GL-5, well it may not becompletely wrong. I've done some research on the subject, and it seems there are some GL-5 oils which may be safe for brass/bronze syncros, but it depends on the manufacturer. It may not be easy to verify, because I've found a couple manufacturers on the web who make that claim, then go on to say that they use sulphuric additives. Seems the picture is not all that clear. That's why I opted for a GL-4 oil which I know is safe. Redline specifically states that their additive chemistry is non-corrosive. Many of the other manufacturers I researched seem to be very vague on the subject.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I replace Water pumps as a replacement Item at 120,000 miles, along with the timing belt and front engine seals.

    Every 3 years I go to a Radiator specialty shop and they remove and clean the radiator up. I started this when a dirty radiator caused overheating.

    And of course the thermostat could be in need of replacement.
Sign In or Register to comment.