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For the first few minutes it ran a bit rough. But after the car warmed up it quieted right down and has been quieter and smoother ever since. My wife drove it for 100 miles yesterday and was thrilled with the increase in performance.
On another car that had it's OXY sensor replaced at 170K it increased the average gas mileage from 21 to 26 MPG -- and that's on ethynol.
You do have a timing light, right?
The knocking isn't too bad. If I periodically fill the vehicle with premium, it keeps it well under control. I reviewed many of the previous messages and noticed some folks suggested an engine clean-out by Jiffy Lube. Also, because of the deep well for the spark plug, I think some have suggested replacing the spark plug wires about now (the 70k mark). Any strong opinions on these options.
Thanks again for the help
One of the signs that this treatment was needed was the demand for premium.
I am really amazed at how much smoother the performance was. We've driven it over 500 miles now, and the engine is smoother and more responsive.
I would also recommend the Oxy sensor. Recommended maintenence on those is every 60K. You can purchase them for a good price at www.buyoxygensensors.com. Purchase the OEM version to save labor cost, and having to solder one end of the connection.
I would also recommend having the dealer clean the MAF sensor. My mechanic did it on my son's 1997 for only $35.00. There are details on this procedure in this and the Ford Probe's discussion group.
The car has no problems, gas mileage and pick-up is fine.
Is there a simple way to shut off this light? (fuse removal?)
Thanks
Dear Mark: Fix your oxygen sensor. That should make the light go off after two or three cycles.
Just wanted to let some of you know that you can get an extended warrenty at sams club, also at some credit unions.
I'm looking at an extended warrenty 7 years 100,000 miles through sams.
The one I'm getting is for my Sienna 2001 costs about at 1100 bucks no deductible. You have to call them for pricing on the 100k one its not on their site. To get the site and number just call the number on your sams card.
This warrenty also includes free rental and towing. I think its a great deal, I havent purchased my car yet but looking at a 626. I dont care what car you own. You should buy a warrenty. one bad ac or trans or engine and it pays for itself.
Hope this is helpful for some of you guys.
keep up the posts.
While driving at highway speed, engine turns off for 1-2 seconds then restarts. No sputtering on turn off or turn on. Tach goes to zero, no engine lights come on. Has even done this with cruise control on. When engine restartss, cruise control is still activated. Happened to my son twice yesterday afternoon on a 125 mile trip. Happened once or twice a month ago. Then nothing till last week when it happened two or three times. Has not occured on city streets. No starting or idling problems. The event is almost over before you realize something is wrong.
Help!
I've considered doing a flush, but with such low miles, I want to do the drain 3 quarts and refill first as a cheap experiment. My question is -- where is the drain plug? Is it the plug that requires an allen wrench in the center of the bottom of the tranny? The dealer told me to use the same crush washer as the oil drain plug, but this one on the tranny doesn't appear to have any crush washer on it at all. Is this it, or do I have to drop the pan (not my favorite activity)??
Oh, and one other thing -- any issues with using Dextron 3? I understand it is compatible with Dextron 2, and OK to blend.
Thanks!
Too much money for a replacement.
At least you have a pan you can drop, unlike those of us out here in CD4Eland.
Mazda's current recommendation, last I heard, was Dexron II, IIE, or III. Ray's 15k advice for same seems sound enough.
1. can you tell me the torque specs for the tranny pan bolts on the GF4A trans?
2. Is it wise to coat the new pan gasket I will get from the dealer with any permatex or anything else, or just put it on dry?
3. anything I should look for when I drop the pan to see what kind of condition the tranny is in?
4. Is there a preferred sequence to torquing he bolts to prevent leaks?
5. Do I refill the trans through the dipstick (hope so)or is there a filler port on top of the trans (hope not).
As Roseanne Roseanadana said, "you ask a lot of questions for someone from New Jersey"! So I appreciate the help!
2. Install the gasket as is.
3. There's a magnet down there to attract ferrous debris; anything you find there is steel. There may be nonferrous material also, probably worn off a band. Small amounts of either aren't worth worrying about, but big chunks should give you pause.
4. I don't see any prescribed sequence, but I'd do them the way I do lug nuts - don't do two adjacent ones in sequence.
5. Fill through the dipstick tube. Refill capacity on this thing is 9.3 US quarts.
I am about to purchase a Mazda Extended Protection Plan (administered by APCO).
It will cost me $1199 for 6/100000.
I have 626 auto/4 cyl/2000 with no problems.
Does anybody have any experience with this kind of warranty?
Thanks!
I love my Mazda and my son loves his. However, it has a very fussy auto tranny.
Use this as a guideline my 98 Mazda 626 has 78,000 miles. The only maintance other than oil changes has been a clutch and front brake job both at about 55,000 and both would not be covered under any warranty.
If you still think you want the warranty bargin hunt with other Mazda dealers you can get it for alot less than $1,100.
hope this helps
I think I'll buy it this time, it's my first car and I am not sure of what to expect to..
Engine should last much longer if you have taken care of it.
If you want to increase power and keep the engine running smooth, have a machine clean your fuel injectors.
I am only hanging on to this junk since it is paid off. However I think it is time to cut my losses. The only thing these cars have going for them are the looks. Really sharp lookin.Other than that - a real piece of cr***. Never judge a book by it's cover. Toyota here I come!!
As to the Camry being "like a dream", well, it is 4 years newer than your 626!!! You might have come away with the same impression had the dealer given you a '99 626.
Anyway, best of luck with whatever you buy...
I have a four-cylinder 626 from 95 with ~ 79K miles, auto-tranny. I bought it used with 68K a year ago, and it has had quite a bit of stuff fixed/changed (timming belt, CV joints/boots, breaks all around, radiator hose that cracked). Although I have spent some money on it, it is a reliable car, and my wife really depends on it. Furthermore, if I can get as many miles from this one as I did from my previous Mazda (a GLC that I sold with 170K on it and still running strong...), I'll be a happy man.
A couple of days ago, the CEL light came on for a minute, and then it went out (the light...). My wife drove it for a couple of days, and she tells me that the light hasn't light up for her. However, I got on the car again today, and I figured out when the CEL lights up. If I punch the gas (get it to ~ 3000 - 3500 RPMs, which is something my wife does not do...), the CEL comes on, and then it goes off. I have read some of the messages in the board, and saw that a lot of people had this happening, and that most of the times it's the O2 sensors or the air sensor/meter. Why when you punch the gas??? Anyway, it's fairly DIY, so it this is it, I'll do it this weekend.
Also, how often does the cooling fan goes on? I cannot remember how often it did last summer, but I think that the thing now goes on a lot more frequently than before (i.e., one out of two times you are in a traffic light, while parking, etc.). Is this normal and I just forgot, or is something getting clogged and the fan has to work overtime due to this. By the way, the engine temperature is fine (rock-solid slightly below 1/2 of the gauge).
Many thanks in advance,
Guillermo
CEL: Dunno about that one other than the fact that a car runs rich when you floor the accelerator and the exhaust temp goes down. It may just be the sudden change in exhaust temp that's getting to your O2 sensor.
Guillermo
Unfortunately Oxygen sensors are a regular maintenence Item. buyoxygensensors.com has great prices for these.
1) Try to get the ECU codes.
2) Tune-up the thing. Change wires, plugs, etc. This may fix the somewhat rough (low RPM) idle.
3) See if that takes care of the CEL, and if it does not, change sensors according to results from (1).
Also, forgot to mention. My car has a known 626 problem, which is oil in the spark-plug wells (the left one looking at the car). This is probably due to the fact that when the timming belt was replaced the mechanic had to re-install it (the timming was off the first time around), and he probably worked 'fast' on it. I heard that tightening the valve cover bolts sometimes helps. I did noticed that the connectors of the plug wires are a little cracked, which is an obvious results of being soaked in hot oil...
Does this sound reasonable? Any other suggestions on the matter will be greately appreciated.
Guillermo