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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    Replacement of the shift solenoid was a simple job. Even though the bad solenoid had a major effect on the car's performance, it is unlikely that anything else was damaged. Good luck.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    The only thing that comes to mind would be an ignition switch possibly. We see people with ten million things on their key rings and this puts stress on the ignition switches plus they can fail on their own just like anything else.So that would be my guess at this point.Try wiggling the key around and see if you can make it stall. If not then try and remember to look your dash the next time it happens, if it is a switch all of your dash indicator lights will go out as if key was in off position. If you know that didnt happen then until it can be verified and tested by a tech it is going to be hard to say what the cause is.Good luck
  • Just checking to see if anyone has had similar problems with their Accord. My car was at 27,000
    miles (14 months I had owned) when my check engine light came on. Took the car to the dealer and was advised if I did 30,000 mile service that would take care of my problem. NOT. Engine light came on the next morning. Took the car back to the same dealer and 3 days later they decided to replace the EGR valve. All was well until my mileage reached 35,000 miles in March 2001. Engine light came back on - took car to local dealer who has always serviced my car on oil changes and small warranty items - they were aware of previous work done and they CLEANED my egr valve.
    Guess what, the light stayed off until around 47k miles which was in Aug 2001. Took car to original dealer who decided to chemically clean the egr valve & port. They did this at no charge.
    It was a good thing as the light was back on the next morning. After taking the car back to the dealer and them getting in touch with tech's in California the resolution was to replace the EGR valve. We discussed who would pay for this problem and my dealership got the approval from the District manager that they (HONDA) would pay for the part but I would be held accountable to pay for the labor($121). I called the 1800 Honda Customer Service # and made a complaint about my recurring problem. The person that I spoke with was very understanding and advised me that if I had called this number before the dealership had contacted the district manager that they would have also paid for the labor. She advised that they could not override what the district manager had already approved. She also advised that this was a one time only "goodwill part" offered by Honda to replace my valve and that any additional problems that I have will be at my cost from now on. She did check to see if any recall's were out on this issue and none were. I asked what next and was advised to call the BBB. I could not help but to laugh. Is this the response that I get when I have a problem. I got more attention from Honda reps when I was just looking for a new car. I was advised by a new found friend at one of the dealerships that this is becoming a problem with 2000 accords since most people don't drive as much as I do (suburban working mom with kids and husband who coaches baseball). Please respond if you have any info that can help myself or others. ....My dealer who has done the EGR replacement twice has promised to set up a meeting between district manager and me. He wants the manager to hear my complaint. I will advise if this happens what the outcome is. SO far the light has stayed off for 2 whole days!! Maybe a miracle occured Thanks for your time!!!!
  • I just purchased a new 2001 V6 Accord, sold my 1995 Accord with 108K miles. As soon as I drove the car off the lot I noticed that it seemed to hesitate or miss a little under normal acceleration. Thinking it was just the new wearing off, I drove it for 200 miles before I took it back to the dealer. They said nothing was wrong with the car since the Check Engine Light didn't come on and to drive it for a few hundred miles more to see if it cleared up. They gave some excuse about the computer geting to know my driving habits. Never heard that one before. Well, here I am with 1,000 miles on it and it still seems to be hesitating. this happens under normal acceleration and is most prominent in second gear or when going up a hill. Under hard acceleration it doesn't hesitate at all. My 1995 4 cylinder Accord never hesitated at all.

    Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?
  • I HAVE A 1989 HONDA ACCORD LX 4CYL.
    THE COOLING FANS THAT COOL DOWN THE ENGINE DOES NOT COME ON, SO THE CAR OVERHEATS. I LOOKED AT THE COOLING FAN FUSE (30 AMPS) IT WAS BURNED OUT SO I PUT IN ANOTHER FUSE, AND AND AS SOON AS I PUT IT IN THE FUSE BURNED OUT. DOES ANY ONE NO WHAT IT COULD BE. AND HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST TO FIX.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    YOU HAVE A SHORT IN THE FAN CIRCUIT!!!!!!!!! THAT'S WHY IT'S BLOWING FUSES.

    Please turn your Caps Lock off. It's these two sentences easier to read than the previous? (ALL CAPS IS CONSIDERED 'YELLING').
  • Sorry about the caps. To me writing in caps is not a big deal. Do you no if i can fix it my self or i have to bring the car in and how much is it going to cost. Thanx for the help!!!
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    No, this is not common; yes, it has been known to happen.

    And for everyone's benefit [and I will deliberately turn on the caps here] DO NOT EVER TAKE DELIVERY OF A CAR YOU HAVE NOT DRIVEN AT LEAST 10 MILES before committing to the deal. Always drive the specific car you intend to buy, and well before you sign anything. Get it warmed up, get it up to highway speeds, use the brakes, turn on the AC...do what I call an "acceptance test".

    Golfnut is not the first person who has turned up a problem with a new car that was there right from the get-go. The best defense in this case is offense...do not close the deal until you know this is the car you want and it works properly.

    Honda will make 400,000 of these things this year. Most of them will behave properly from minute one, and will do so for a hundred thousand miles with minimal effort on your part. HOWEVER, a few will not, and a fewer still will have something so obviously wrong that they should not be driven off the lot. That is a statistical certainty...behave accordingly.

    A good dealer will solve this problem, whether or not the OBD codes are being set. Sounds like you need another dealer, or need to get the ball rolling with Honda to get one of the regional reps involved.
  • What is a reasonable price to pay for a muffler replacement for a 1997 Honda Accord 4-cyl?(Non-dual exhaust) The main pipe appears to be in pretty good condition. Thanks!
  • ravynravyn Posts: 101
    you might also check your temperature gauge... my mom's '88 accord was having a similar issue to yours, and the temp gauge was busted. we had it replaced, and the fan came on when it was supposed to, so no more overheating.
  • Other brand new cars I have owned ('84 accord 5-speed & '87 accord 5-speed) have achieved the "estimated EPA city mileage" from the get-go. My driving habits have not changed. However, This new LX 4-cyl automatic has a 23 MPG city estimate, but after about about 2600 miles, It consistently uses 14 gallons to go 280 miles. Under a variety of city conditions. Air-conditioning off.

    This seems wrong.

    I took one long highway trip and at 60-75 Mph It got very good mileage, upwards of 32 MPG.
    But I find 20 MPG over the long hall in the City very underwhelming considering both the expectations and experience I had which led me to make the purchase. (I'd expect 20 MPG City from a Honda V-6 automatic).

    I have heard several possibly overlapping or conflicting explanations or rationalizations of this phenomenon:

    1.) City MPG EPA estimates for automatics are *always* too high, whereas those for manuals are more or less accurate.

    1a). The dealer's service manager asserted that the EPA estimates in general are "pie in the sky".

    2.) Some circles of opinion suggest that there is a very long, slow upward improvement to be expected over time in the fuel economy for this car.

    3.) Some point to the reformulated gas ("MTBE") in CA as the culprit here.

    If (1) is in fact the case, that is quite useful and should be widely disseminated. It would explain, at any rate, the descrepancy between my experience with 5 speeds and their respective city ratings, and the new automatic and its city rating. The dealer's claim (1a) is not convincing on a number of grounds, and is at variance with my own previous experience as well. Claim (2) sounds interesting, but it is not consistent with my experience driving other new cars and so, unless new Hondas are unique in this respect, it would be interesting to have some technical supporting argument to justify this claim, or some more widewpread empirical evidence.

    The bottom line is that scraping by with 20 MPG, albeit in the city, in a 2.3 Liter 4-cylinder Honda just feels wrong. I wonder if anyone really knows what might be going on here? I don't want to even bring the matter up with the dealer unless I have researched the matter to the point where I do in fact have an unassailable position.

    Thanks --
    R.b.
  • I have a 2000 Accord EX, v6 that has developed a flutter coming from the right front air vent. The flutter does not start until the vehicle has been driven 10 miles or so, and the rattle remains for a considerable amount of time and then disappears, and later re-appears. The noise occurs whether the a/c or heat is on or off. The front air vent has been replaced twice and the noise persists even without the air vent installed. There is nothing inside the space that is occupied by the air vent causing the flutter, nor, guess what, does the noise occur when I take it to the dealer. Someone has suggested that it could possibly be the right front air bag causing the flutter but at a loss to explain its erratic behavoir. The noise occurs only when the vehicle is in motion. Would much appreciate any input.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    Firstly, one thing IS true: these engines are rarely broken in before 7000 miles. Ours was still making more power and using less fuel right through 7500 miles.

    Second, while low, yours is well within what I would call the "envelope", that is the range of expectations I would consider not unreasonable depending on the usual variables. That you got over 30 in highway conditions tells me there is nothing wrong with the car. Our '98 4 cyl LX automatic generally averaged around 24 mpg in mixed suburban driving, but would easily push 30 on long trips [even at 75 mph with the AC on all the time], and yes, we occasionally saw as little as 20, especially early in the game.

    I counsel patience. Call again when you get some real miles under its belt...
  • Hey all, Haven't visited in a while. Just turned 71K on a 98 ACCORD LX-4 sedan with the manual. Still runs like day one. I now personally know 21 people who drive Honda's (My wife and I have 2). If you want a 2nd best alternative to a Toyota, you can't beat the Hondas (I'd actually consider Nissan tied for 2nd best, followed closely by some Mazda's)

    P.S. What I've learned about Asian vehicle's is they develop unusual noises or quirks, which are 99% of the time just that... quirks.

    Solution: Just keep driving 'em till they don't drive no more. More or less, they won't let you down over the long haul(usually around 300+K conservatively)
  • Come on people. I've posted twice and I still don't have any good answers. After talking with my mechanic friends, all agree I have a torque converter that's locking. I can feel the shudder between 40-50mph. But when it's really locked, the RPMs will drop below 1000x for 2-3 seconds. It feels like the car is braking for no reason. Should I insist that my torque converter be replaced along with the ECM? Currently, the dealership has not acknowledged my problem because they can't reproduce it. That was 3 weeks ago and the problem has gotten worse.
  • I had posted a msg. about my 1990 Accord LX hesitating. Auburn63 suggested that I check the EGR ports by disconnecting the hose to the manifold. That was done and I believe it is the EGR ports causing the problem but do we replace the EGR valve or just clean the ports? If cleaning the ports will fix the problem is there something I can purchase to clean them or just replace the valve. The price I've been quoted for an EGR valve is $176.00. Does that seem reasonable?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    I would go with just the ECM to start; tearing down the transmission is the last resort. I'm betting that the electronics are the culprit.
  • talon95talon95 Posts: 1,110
    I encountered the shuddering with my 2000 V-6. They replaced the torque converter to address it. The problem improved but wasn't eliminated.

    Here's the listing for the TSB from the NHTSA site:

    Service Bulletin Number: 00038
    Bulletin Sequence Number: 125
    Date of Bulletin: 0004
    NHTSA Item Number: SB612567
    Make: HONDA
    Model: ACCORD
    Year: 2000
    Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER (8/82)
    Summary: VEHICLE MAY EXPERIENCE SHUDDER OR JUDDER WHEN DRIVING AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 20 AND 40 MPH, VIBRATION IS MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH IS IN THE PARTIAL LOCK-UP MODE. *MJS

    I felt the shudder more often at slightly higher speeds than the TSB lists... most prominent from about 45 - 60 mph. Fortunately, nobody ever drives at those speeds... ;-)

    The site lists this TSB for the 1999 and 2000 model years of Accord V-6, but not for 2001. I don't believe anything on the tranny was changed from 2000 to 2001, so I doubt that it was remedied once and for all... but I could be wrong.

    The number 38 is a direct reference to the TSB in the book that Honda provides to the dealers... the service tech at my dealership showed it to me after I gave him the NHTSA information.

    I never experienced the RPM drop that you describe. The torque converter replacement *might* fix it, but I really don't know.
  • Awhile back, I had asked for your advice regarding startup problems during the hot day heat. It only occurred during the heat of the day and never first thing in the morning nor during the evenings. You had suggested/pointed to the main fuel relay as the possible culprit; but as it turned out, my OEM plug wires hadn't been replaced on my '93 ~107K Accord so they were basically shot. My mechanic friend verified it with a simple volt meter test =). He also suggested replacing the distributor cap/rotor as well. Some how, these simple little maintenance was omitted during my 60K/90K service from my Honda dealer so it leaves me to wonder if I've been ripped big time regarding what if anything they did beyond the oil change?!?!? My next step is to go back and check my service write-ups and go from there? Ok, my apologies for the long ramble but just wanted to inform others about maintenance omitions that could be easily taken care of or at least be aware of.

    One more thing, has anybody experience or have used hparts.com? How are their prices compared to dealers? How does one get the part #'s to use on that site other than from inquiring thru the dealer for them? Thanks in advance =).
  • Michaelm10, I have the same problem on my '00 Accord. Intermittent rattle from what appears to be the right vent. However the rattle persists even when the vent is removed. You can put your hand in the opening and make the rattle stop, but I can't figure out where it is coming from. Had it back to the dealer once but haven't been able to get it corrected. If you get some more information, please post it. thanks.
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