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You may want to check the temp of the air coming out of your vents to be sure that the ac is cooling properly. Auburn63 mentioned in an earlier post what that temp should be--around 55 degrees I think???
- Anthony
center dashboard near the two center air vents??
It's pretty loud, so if you have it, I doubt you
wouldn't be able to hear it. It first sounded like it was coming from the glove box, so I took
everything out of there and the rattle didn't go
away. Then I put me ear up to the vent (yes, while I was driving! Hey, it was 11:00 at night and no one else was on the road) and I heard it from around there. Anyone else have this problem??
- Anthony
I use Mother's liquid wax (often) and Maguire's cleaner wax (once in a while) for my accord. The problem is they don't last long enough. After like two washings, wax is gone. Do you know any good wax that lasts? Also, I'd like to get more shine. IMO, they don't really give good shine.
I wax my accord every two weeks or even more often. Waxing is fun, but I think wax should last at least one month.
Any suggestions?
- Anthony
In case you are not familiar with Zaino, it is a mail order polymer based product that some folks around here are quite enamored of. The "Store Bought" topic was set up specifically to discuss all other car waxes and finishes besides Zaino. I'm pretty sure that Mother's, Meguiars, Zymol, NuFinish and Blitz have all been discussed there (or in its precedent).
Each topic has links in post 0 to preceding topics. And if that's not enough to keep you busy for a while, we also have a topic on Paint and Body Care (Topic #20) that also has lots of good info.
Happy reading! :-)
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Chances are if you do the maintenance on the Accord at the proper intervals it will last longer. From my experience American cars are made to mess up between 40-60K miles. Honda maintenace is generally more expensive but that is a trade-off if it lasts longer. Also, the resale value on the Accord is awesome compared to the competition. Check out Intellichoice's review for more info.
Here's my question:
Last summer I paid around $500 to have the
condenser replaced on my 95 Prelude VTEC. I
recently discovered that there are 2 TSB's
pertaining to the condenser failing on 95
Preludes(both dated 1997). (I'm original owner,
BTW.)
Do I have any recourse? My mechanic (a Honda
trained technician with many years of experience on
Hondas) mentioned that he has had to replace many
condensers on 95 Hondas (all models) because that's
the year the freon changed. But mine was the first
Prelude he'd had to replace, so perhaps he didn't
know about the TSB?
Anyway, I was just wondering what my next step
should be, or if I even have any grounds to try to
get reimbursement.
Also, does anyone know about the TSB's on the
stereo system in the Preludes? I'm having problems
with mine and there were several references on
AllData.com about TSB's for the stereo.
Despite these two problems, the car has been great
overall and I will remain loyal to my Honda's
(after 12 years of driving them).
Any advice appreciated! Thanks
(Follow up--I've been running my a/c regularly because of the heat and humidity, but it's been actually leaking large amounts of water (condensation, not antifreeze, fortunately!). I've recently read MANY psts from people with similar problems, and this seems to be a problem with Hondas, especially. But now I've got MOLD growing on and under my floor mats, and I fear it may be growing inside the cooling system, too! Any insight about this?)
Still running strong at 147,000 miles!!!
mparash; if you're getting 23 in the city, that's pretty good. I think that range of 23-30 might include both city and hiway.
1. The outside diameter is 0.17" wider.
2. The top holes are different.
The oil filter I normally use has 8 holes between the gasket and thread. The new oil filter has slight bigger holes but there are 6 holes.
Will 2 less holes allow more or less filtration?
Will it harm my engine?
Will I gain or lose performance?
Check engine light came on "Not due to loose gas cap" Dealer Fixed the problem.
The invoice lists the computer problem code.
Where can I find out what these codes mean (I checked the owners manual did not see it).
Thanks in advance.
Tuesday morning I called my local dealer and gave them the story. They said probably a bad starter. I had the car towed (rollback) to the dealer. They could not get to it on Tuesday so my wife was without a car for another day.
The service advisor called Wednesday and told me that they had found the problem. The Silencer anti-theft device that they supposedly had removed from the car when I purchased it new had malfunctioned!!!! They bypassed the Silencer and I picked up the car Wednesday. As soon as I got home with the car I completely removed the Silencer system and trashed it, as they should have done when I bought the car (it was a rip-off dealer item at around $300 as I recall).
Result--3 days without the car, a towing bill and the cost of a new battery. Well, at least I have AAA and probably would have had to buy a battery this winter anyway.
So, if any of you have the Silencer, I would recommend that you have it removed before it strands you somewhere!!!!
The code is "P1486".
I have my owners manual same as Service manual? If so what page are the codes listed.
Xfactor,
I am not familar with that code, I will have to check the book on monday.Are you sure the code wasn't a 1456? Anyhow I was hoping it would be one that I knew off hand, so I will check the manual on monday. The service manual is not the same as your owners manual, service manuals are for repair procedures and stuff like that..
Any other code set? Manual says P1486 can be set occasionally when the hood is opened. Hope this helps.
Only code on invoice was P1486. I had the bill in front of me when I originally posted so thats the code.
I am assuming that the dealer just reset the code and did not replace the Thermostat or the additional work would have been listed.
I take your post to mean that opening the hood could cause the check engine sensor to go off.
Is there a way to get the service manual? and does it provide ways to fix the problem without violating the Warranty. The dealer fixed it under Warranty but its a royal pain in the A-- to drag the car to the dealer.
I'm no mechanic but if it were me I wouldn't worry about the p1486 unless it happens again.
I'm brought a Accord SE, three weeks back and
I have been following almost all the discussion related to Accord.
I'm a first time buyer and this is my first car and after going through all the discussion
and reviews about Camry Vs Accord , I choose Accord. I'm new to this country and of course
to US driving, so can't really tell how my car is behaving (wind noise or rattles etc) as I concentrate more
on road but yes its very easy to maneuver.
I have few questions, it still doesn't have pickup or power I expected (is it because its still in breaking period (550 Miles) till date.)
Also I was reading about reverse cluck, can someone explain me what's exactly is this as I couldn't get head or tail of it. Is this a V6 problem or 4 cyl also has it ?
I agree with baker16 and that is not to worry about it unless it codes up again.Clearing the code has to be done by PGMFI tester and or 40 trips as determined by the computer as a complete trip. As far as the manuals you can also order them through the dealer as some do not mark them up.
jthukral,
Couldn't tell you about the power without driving yours but I do think they have enough for normal driving. As far as the clunk it is 6 cylynder related have not seen any of the 4 cylynder transmissions make the noise.Basicly it is a very loud noise as if you hit a big object or the trans feel out while backing up for long distances.Can also happen driving down the road but most of the time in reverse for 20ft or so.Hope this has helped
Rgding reverse cluck, when I put car in reserve gear from P or D4 sometimes I hear gear changing sound (Is it normal ?).
I feel gear change should be noiseless. But yes no sound while reserving.
Also I read in this discussion [non-permissible content removed] made accord VIN start with J, mine starts with J but when I brought the car, the sticker on the car read as 25% [non-permissible content removed] component used in this car. Is this what they mean [non-permissible content removed] made accord ?.
As for the engagement noise it is normal as Sanandton says.For long term use of your automatic make sure you are at a full stop before changing directions(R to D or D to R). If not then the normal noise could turn to a abnormal noise...Good luck
I think the link is http://www.honda-accessories.com see ya
The problems to date have been insignificant SRS light and Check engine light.
The annoyance is getting it to the dealer. At one point I had too rent a car $50 to get to work while they fixed the stupid light and then drive back at night to pick it up. Just an issue you have to deal with when owning a car.
In this Carline
US/Canadian parts 70 %
Major imported component 25 % (from Japan).
For this car
final assembly pt : Japan
engine, xmission : Japan
So its a 100 % [non-permissible content removed] made accord and not 25 %.
Does it mean that 30% component for all accord still comes from outside US and out of which 25% are from Japan ?