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Comments
I took it to a dealer to have the PCM reprogrammed to correct
false EGR position error.Cost $90.
Does anyone know where I check for this problem.
If anyone knows please respond
thanks
Our Venture 2000 alarm has been going off sporadically. Here's what I have done:
1) Tried to change the programming of the content and damage sensor alarms to turn them off. This doesn't work at all...there are no chimes when I turn the parking lamp on and off.
2) Checked the setup of our system...when I took out the correct fuse, and set the key to the accessories position, I got three chimes. This means, according to the table, that we have no contents or damage alarm system. In addition, our system has a flashing LED to the left of the steering column that is not shown in the manual.
3) Called the dealer who told us to turn off the valet switch. This didn't help.
Any ideas?
TIA
Eric from NY
:confuse:
Is this something that is easy to fix? I'm hoping that someone will say that the part is cheap and point me in the direction of how to fix it. A link to some instructions would be fantastic. Otherwise, I'll be forced to spend more hard-earned dollars with our local gas station.
Thanks,
Iain
We have noticed the smell even on days after a fuel fill-up.
Any idea where the fuel smell is from?
Thanks.
Take the cover off of the upper assembly and spray about 8 cents worth of WD40 at it and you will save the 200 bucks at the dealer.
My AC was leaking back into the cab and filled the passenger side floor with water which corroded the wires.
A bit of solder, grease, and electrical tape fixed the door problem. (Fixing my blower motor resistor will probably stop the AC condnesate from flooding the floor in the future, but I have found that running it on high helps a lot too.) Good luck.
Bite the bullet, replace the motor / transmission assembly (mine came from an auto wrecker for $120)
My practice is to i) grease it every 6 months and ii) run it at least once a week.
Good Luck.
By the way, WalMart sells their Super Tech full synthetic oil for $12.88 five quarts, half the price of Mobil1 and meets the same American Petroleum Institute specs.
In my opinion, this thing with the intake manifold gaskets leaking and costing $800. to replace is another GM engineering error as is DexCool the DeathCool. There is evidently some kind of electrolosis set up by an aluminum head and iron block whereby the intake manifold gasket is eaten up and craps out leaving the owner with a big repair bill.
I remove the plug (yes, the bcm prgrm one), get in the car (all doors including liftgate are shut), I turn to ACC, off and back on again (within a sec.), open a door (chime) close it (chime - seems because there's a key in the ingnition), wait 14 secs, nothing. hold lock/unlock for 30 secs, nothing. Somebody help! what am I doing wrong?
Waters
New problem - chugging starts either going up a hill or from a stop and stalling when making sharp corners. Replaced fuel filter to see if that would work - nope. Back to the dealership - they can't find it. No codes, no engine light - nothing. Intermittant problem too so it behaved for them but then 15 minutes down the road it starts chugging so bad, I thought I wouldn't make it home. Sharp turns, stalls - again intermittantly. Going to another mechanic tomorrow who thinks it could be electrical problem. He also thinks that something is trying to find a ground and has been shorting out my wheel bearings -this is the first time I have heard that it could be an electrical problem doing them in. Also, my stereo is burning hot if you touch it and has always been that way. Occasionally smell a burning smell but can't find anything. Suggestions? Oh ya, I'm on the hunt for an 02 Mazda MPV - no more GM but need this one fixed to get my through until the Mazda can be found. Idea's?
I am at 62,000 miles and head gasket gone, having head tested as we speak, have the infamous dexcool, a/c went and brakes/rotors went in under 20,000miles since new pads. I hate to think what is next to come!
Any advice on possible connection with the a/c and engine woes? And if they are not related at all, is there any benefit to having the work done on the a/c while the engine is out as far as access goes? I can't afford these repairs have only had my $13,000 vehicle for 6months and am already at $2100 USD to fix. I'm wondering since my engine is pulled out what is the deal with getting at the a/c while they are in there? Any parts I can question them about? Can you see from visual inspection any flaws. Repair shop is telling me they have to be able to run the a/c and can't since the engine is pulled. I am livid about this crappy van!