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Just purchased a used 1 owner GS with 65,000 highway miles. I had a 89 that just fell apart at 120,000 miles.
This is a nice car and found out the other owner had driven this to Florida every winter and changed the oil every 3,000 miles. The torque converter was replaced at 46,000 miles. I read that this was a problem with this year. My question is was the converter design changed so this will not happen again? Seems like a defect from the factory.
Thanks!
I am about to replace my worn out '91 Camry with a possible 2001 CV. This car is new/leftover from previous year. 300 miles and every option on it. From $28K the dealership is willing to drop to $21K for a starting point. I have viewed all the posts, visited several sites on the web. It looks like I might get down to $20K, probably not any farther. My question is, "Do I push my luck and go for the current used price of $18.5K?"
Or get happy and get a new car?
thanks for any assistance,
Michael.
But what is the next course of action? Where do I pinpoint the leak? Any post would be helpful.
Realize that it may be something totally different causing the burning smell. My '78 Mercury lost every gear but first due to a very poor rebuild, and when you revved the engine to the limit in 1st, going downhill with a tailwind to get all the speed you could get, the transmission would get very, very hot. This could not be good for the transmission, and probably cooked the fluid. I never smelled anything during that experience, but I certainly felt the heat coming through the transmission tunnel (the hump between the front seats) into the passenger compartment.
The excuse that the dealer gave is that this is a common problem and they are having trouble stocking the speedometer parts. I happen to think that the dealer is lying. My Grand Marquis has zero trouble with the speedo (I assume its the same part).
Anyone have a similar problem? Ford better fix this soon. I feel that it is un-safe to drive with a dead speedometer not to mention the fact that the odometer will never record the actual mileage on the car.
I'll tell you what's different between the Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis....The grille, the taillights, and that little piece on the dash that says "Grand Marquis" or "Crown Victoria." And if you get one built at 4:45 PM on a Friday when Ford's low on parts, that piece on the dash might not be different.
As far as the speedometer, www.crownvic.net is one of my favorite websites (As much for the off-topic antics as for the car stuff), and no one, to my knowledge, has ever mentioned speedometer problems on there. It is certainly not a common problem. The dealer is selling you some bovine scatology (also known as BS). Light a fire under his rear and get him to get you that speedometer part. Be persistant. If that fails, be annoying and persistant. They'll fix the thing just to get you to shut up.
BUT, if you can buy the 2001 w/ only 300 miles on it, for around 20K, that is a great deal. mechanically the cars are identical...the 2001 was the 1st year where ford used the PI (performance improved) heads, so 2001+ is the car you want anyhow. with dual exhaust, expect 235-240 HP at the flywheel. maybe 210 or better RWHP. take a test drive, you will love the car.
then consider underdrive pulleys, a lightning mass airmeter/airbox & a custom chip to make sure you WASTE all the other camrys on the road. that should add another 10 or more HP.
Geoff
Any info on the interior, especially the Sport Edition, for 2003?
I have a question concerning the wheel covers. Last week, I tried to rotate the tires, but couldn't get the wheel covers off. I was bending them alot but didn't want to force the covers off in case they're somehow attached/locked.
Are they attached or was I just not trying hard enough? The car has the plain steel wheel with (I think) the base wheel cover.
Thanks for your help.
I ask because the changes sound quite interesting, and I want to drive one before considering what to do about replacing my current wheels!
Thanks!
I hear the 02 Sport pkg is delayed. It's worth the wait, or find an 01.
GOOD LUCK
I have this same problem on my 2000 MGM LS. I bought it used with 23000 miles. It developed this pedal vibration at about 26500 miles after the third time it was worked on for a oil leak. The second time it was worked on the entire engine was replaced because the previous Ford dealer left it with multiple oil leaks. The third time there was only a head gasket oil leak. It doesn't leak oil any more but the Accelerator pedal has this same buzzing vibration. Slowing down or speeding up makes the vibration go away. In my case I suspect they didn't put something back together right or something is loose. I haven't taken it back to the dealer for the pedal yet. Have you found out the cause of this?
pk973
capacity got knocked down to 2000lbs. I seem to remember that they used to be able to pull around 5000lbs, which I'll need. can anyone here point me in the right direction, or better yet, direct me to how I can modify a newer 'Vic to tow 5000lbs. The engine and powertrain seem capable, is it something stupid like no available trans cooler or weak alloy wheels that keep this big, body on frame car from really pulling?
Thanks any and all.
www.crownvic.net
They can tell you there when the two rating was dumbed down. They know their Crown Victorias.
I would also like to know what order I should put performance parts on the car to increase horsepower and torque. If there are any. Thank you.
http://www.crownvic.net/
As for towing... I think the 5000# package went away somewhere around 1995. I know it wasn't available in 1997. Either way, that's a lot of weight to tow with any car. If you're just pulling a boat down to the ramp, 5000# properly equipped is fine. But I wouldn't want to be pulling that big a trailer cross-country.
Sure, Ford wanted to beef up its SUV sales and no doubt that went a long way in dropping their tow package on the CV/MGM. But I think increasingly large liabilities and changing safety standards over the years had the most to do with it. Most people have NO understanding what it's like to more than double the weight of your car. You're essentially a truck. A big wind could take you out.
But the car is largely the same, and in some cases even better for towing. Make sure you know what you're doing before you hook up 5000#, or even 1000#.
One Ford service tech said Ford is notorious for bad ICV motors. (My past track record w/other Fords cars verifies this statment--Syptom: the car dies after start up and put into drive). Another said all other Mfrs. are just as bad. (I can't verify, but sounds bad to all car owners)
I changed Trany oil/screen at 31K to correct the transmission shudder. What happened to quality control and good engineering?
I could expect these kind of repairs at 4-5 years of age or 65K miles; but at 17 months? This kind of stuff is enough to make me put up with Toyota Avalon rattles/squeaks.
Now, I'm worried about my wife being rear ended for gas tank explosions c/o latest news report on Police car accidents. Though, I still feel it is about the safest car on the road. (My wife walked out of one-a '92, after a 60 MPH head on wreck)
Hey, I had to get this off my chest after paying the repair bills. The ride cannot be beat and the V8 pulls as good as any through the mountains. This was the first new car I bought and will keep to about 150K. I have had about 5 GMarqs.
I have a GM99 LS/single exhaust w/46000miles. It appears the driver seat is caving sideways. I wonder if this is covered under warranty?
Also those squeaks are back. I had experienced this before about 2 years ago. I lubricated the hood bumpers and lubed anything that was metal under the hood. Sounds like its back like a vengeance!! Any cure?
Any comments would be appreciated!
Thanks