Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

roger341 · September 2004

I checked the receipt, nothing specified re type of fluid but I'll stop by on Monday and check on this.

I assume sealed for life means it's not servicable by owner, not that it doesn't need changing. Just another way for the dealer to make money.

I will say this, after road testing yesterday the shifting is as smooth as silk. Prior to this it was abrupt, esp on upshifts. But I don't know if it's because the original fluid was "bad" or if it was low....if I had to guess I'd assume the latter.

mike_s · September 2004

Sorry for late reply on chirping noise. I have a V8. can you point me to a TSB on the V^ chirping?

mike_s · September 2004

I've had mine in 4x and after 3 a/c compressor replacements I have the same noise. I have filed a lemon law claim...we'll see what happens.

chuck1 · September 2004

If they didn't fill the transmission with synthetic, you can tell them they just voided the warranty on the tranny. Ask them what they are prepared to do about it. As far as I know, Ford doesn't "recommend" a fluid change on these transmissions for 100,000 miles (not that it's not a good idea to change sooner!)

explorerx4 · September 2004

have an '02 eb with v8. the shifting seemed to degrade over time. had the trans fluid changed as part of the 30k service. it was rolled into a general price, so i don't know how much it actually cost. it did shift better after that, though.
roger341. it probably was a mistake to go to ford, instead of working through the dealer.
ford has a program known as awa(after warranty adjustment). maybe you can still get it to work for you. good luck.

97xltbeep · September 2004

i don't remember who, but someone on this board wisely said: "it never hurts to change a fluid" :-)))
refer to your owner manual for that. i had my transmission and rear diff. serviced in july and it was about $150 for the trans. and $205 for the rear diff. (houston, tx prices- no coupons). if you get your hands on some coupons you may be able to save some.

chuck1 · September 2004

I don't think the previous poster got the synthetic fluid for $89.00 bucks. The right stuff is VERY EXPENSIVE!! The $150.00 with the synthetic fluid sounds about right!

nvbanker · September 2004

I believe the dealer has some discretion with matters like this - is this the dealer you bought the car from? He should do better than that for you. I blew a head gasket on a Continental a few years back, 2 weeks out of warranty, and Ford stepped up and fixed it, no charge.

nvbanker · September 2004

Yep - your trans is gone! That's the signal.

roger341 · September 2004

I checked with the Ford dealer today re. whether they used synthetic fluid for the refill.

I'm told what was used was per specs, which is Mercon V. The parts guy got a bottle of it, it doesn't indicate it's synthetic so I'm assuming it isn't.

The manual as far as I can see specifies synthetic only for the rear axle lubricant.

If the dealer voided the warranty by not using synthetic fluid, then I guess he is responsible for any subsequent problems.

chuck1 · September 2004

Here is what a popular website says:
"Interestingly, the automatic is sealed from the factory with 11 quarts of a semi-synthetic blend of transmission fluid that should not require service for the first 150,000 miles."
As I mentioned, maybe not a good idea to go this long. Is the Mercon V - a semi synthetic? Does anybody know?

troyben · September 2004

But doesn't the manual say replace every 30,000 miles? I'm confused - which should you follow?

test0518 · September 2004

test

swschrad · September 2004

if you look closely at yours, like my 2000's, it should have separate categories for normal and severe service.

normal service is basically you drive 30 miles a day to and from work and the supermarket, and a couple times a year you get a road trip in. no towing, no heavy loads, no fording streams and climbing rocky hills or mudsliming.

severe service is everything else... including arizona desert hot, minnesota/north dakota winter cold, and possibly vermont unpaved sand roads all year long.

normal service, don't touch the tranny until something goes wrong. severe service, fluid and filter changes in the tranny and fluid flush/fill in the diffs every 30,000 miles... and do the diffs and transfer case every time you're in water or mud up to the axle.

nitromax · September 2004

Left front wheel bearing is getting replaced, the right side is still OK. Now I'm thinking, brakes where changed about a month ago and I put close to 4000 miles on it since. Would bearing that was not seated correctly wore out quicker?
They are charging me $270 for changing it, however I don't think I should be paying to whole amount if the bearing was not installed correctly after the brake change.

In my eyes, they should/would have noticed it when they dis-assembled it for the brakes.
Tell-tale signs of worn bearings are burnt/dried grease and poor rotating performance...which would have been noticed when re-packing the grease in the bearings and re-setting them in the vehicle.
And there's no way that a perfectly good bearing (if it was) would wear out after 4000 miles...unless it was installed incorrectly.

I would raise the bull crap flag if I were you.
:-)

Keep in mind that the bearing may REALLY have been worn and the guy that did your brakes was just a slacker. In that case, you would have to pay for a new bearing anyways.

BTW, from my experience with Ford 4WD systems (Bronco II, Ranger STX, Explorer Sport), the left front wheel takes the most beating...why you ask?
Because the 4WD system is really only a glorified 2WD system (left front and right rear wheels)
UNLESS you have a posi differential, which most 4WDs don't.
Anyways, because it's left front/right rear, the left front wheel hub does most of the work of the front end when in 4wd mode. This causes the left front locking hub mechanism to fail most of the time which also cause more heat in the hub...thus heating up the grease in the bearings.
It's a vicious circle

idntnvu · September 2004

I haven't used my 4-hi or 4-low settings much, I usually just leave it in auto and just go. However, I've noticed that in either 4hi or 4low, I get a groaning sound from the front end. I doubt that it's normal, but is there a chance it is? What's causing it exactly? Will it create a big problem for me later down the road? Also, I've been smelling antifreeze, and a while back my resevoir was completely empty, but I haven't noticed any leaks under it. What could that be? It's got 48,800 on it now. Anything I should be watching for?

97xltbeep · September 2004

Hi,
I had the truck in at the dealer yesterday for engine oil/filter and transfer case service. when the guy brought it back from the shop a couple hours later I noticed that he was repeatedly turning the engine on and off, and revving it. i walked on to him and asked why he was doing that; he claimed the engine died on him when he was driving it in front of the customer entrance, and that he could not repeat that; then he took it for a test drive around the block but it never happened again; I drove it back home and then took short trips all day yesterday and did not notice anything wrong; I drove it again today and it behaved normally. We bought the truck used a couple months ago and never had any problems with it stalling.
I was wondering if anyone had a similar experience where the truck would stall out of the blue -- that is of course if the service "specialist" at the dealer was right. I generally don't question their professionalism but this particular person did not even know that the all wheel drive model had a front differential...
as I said, we bought it used and aside from a starter relay problem that we fixed by buying a 10$ relay and replacing it in 20 minutes, we never had any problems with it. I don't know what to believe now, I am kind of afraid to take it on a long trip.
anyway, the truck is a 97 V8, AWD with 79K on it.
Thank you.

nitromax · September 2004

However, I've noticed that in either 4hi or 4low, I get a groaning sound from the front end. I doubt that it's normal, but is there a chance it is? What's causing it exactly? Will it create a big problem for me later down the road? Also, I've been smelling antifreeze, and a while back my resevoir was completely empty, but I haven't noticed any leaks under it. What could that be? It's got 48,800 on it now. Anything I should be watching for?

Were you driving in a straight line when you heard the groaning?

Were the roads dry or wet?

troyben · September 2004

Thanks for the info. Looked at my manual a little more closely & you're right on the money. Issue originally came up when I had the Mountaineer in for some warranty work before it expired & the dealer said we needed it changed every 30k, and I stupidly believed them. Obviously trying to line their pockets! Now that I'm out of warranty, going to my own mechanic.

idntnvu · September 2004

I was on wet grass when I noticed the groaning, doesn't matter if I'm going straight or making turns. I honestly have heard the groaning since I got it, but I passed it off and being normal. I shouldn't have, because of all the 4 wheel drives I've driven, this is the first one to make a groaning sound. It made the sound in the snow, but I usually left it in Auto so I only heard it when it would slip and kick in. I figured it was just where it was kicking in. I've heard it before when I was on dry pavement going in a straight line, put it was prominent the other day on the wet grass. Any ideas on that or the antifreeze smell?

abmicro · September 2004

Where can I get a printout of problem 17736. I have the same problem on my 3.73 limited slip axel on my 2004 explorer. allanbrandt@yahoo.com

nitromax · September 2004

I've heard it before when I was on dry pavement going in a straight line, put it was prominent the other day on the wet grass. Any ideas on that or the antifreeze smell?

That is odd that it would groan through all of those conditions. Dry pavement groan would be normal(well, to a point)...I would suggest having it looked at.
Perhaps play around with it first to try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. One side or both sides or middle. That way when you go in to get it looked at you can have an idea if the service guy is trying to pull a fast one on you.

It may just be that the auto locking hubs need to be serviced. Which would be a lot cheaper than servicing the transfer case or tranny.

On your "missing" coolant. I would keep an eye on it. The overflow is designed to be an expansion tank for the radiator so not seeing any fluid in there may not be an issue. However, if you start smelling radiator fluid (sweet smell...literally) in your engine compartment then it most likely is leaking.
Another possibility is the radiator cap. If the gasket is damaged it will allow fluid to evaporate out. (although your vehicle is fairly new right?) Just something to consider.

idntnvu · September 2004

I'm pretty sure the sound is coming from a hub, thats what it sounds like and I can feel a very slight vibration in the steering wheel...I haven't had a chance to try it again, I haven't had time to go back to the farm this week. I may go tomorrow if I get a chance and see if Jeane caused anymore damage.
I do smell the "sweet" antifreeze smell inside. My dad said it could be the heater core leaking. There are no leaks outside, but I havne't seen any inside either, under the dash where it would be leaking if it were the heater core, plus it's still producing heat just like it always has. And yeah, it's a '99 with 48,800 miles on it, XLS with the 4.0 OHV, dunno if that makes any difference over the SOHC. I'll keep an eye on it and let you know if I find anything. I'm really hoping I DON'T, because I've got probably one of my best paychecks for the year coming up next month, and I don't want it all to go into the Ford Money-Pit. I bought an extended warranty, 3/36, so I've got 2 years and 20k miles left on it.

alfa · September 2004

Mercon V is not fully synthetic and that may have to due with the friction modifiers that are added to the basic stock.The reason for the synthetic part is that the viscosity of the fluid is longer lasting.Its best not to refill with mercon 2 or 3 When V is recommended.But Don't think it would most likely cause any major damage doing so.Dextron was the original then there was Dextron 2,3 and now V. So the difference may not be that great From Dextron 3 which is the most common in use today.
Fluid replacement and flush of torque converter fluid,not overheating the fluid,or running fluid low and non abusive drving,would help the life of the trans more then if dextron 3 or V was installed.( from a auto shop owner )

alfa · September 2004

Dexron not Dextron,

alfa · September 2004

Mercon V not dexron V there is not such fluid as Dexron V Dexron 3 is compatible with Mercon V.
There are so many different fluids for Auto transmissions ,We carry 2 types of mopar early and late,honda atf ,dexron3 toyota T4 was (T3)A vw atf and redline.
There have been several posts on the web from users of redline synthetic ATF .
The posts state that they have found the the
redline fluid lasts longer and transmissions shift better then with dexron 3 of mercon V fluids.Redline does meet or exceed most Oe vehicle Mfg. specs.
The users have used the fluids for heavy duty and racing use.The fluid does cost about twice as much as Mercon V .

nvbanker · September 2004

A phantom stall can happen to any car once in a while. I wouldn't worry a bit. It may never recur, if it does, it could be from another fault, or years from now. As long as it doesn't happen routinely, or you don't get a check engine light, there's nothing wrong.

tlg · September 2004

While discussing a differential clutch noise my 2002 Mountaineer was making on turns, a senior service technician mentioned the factory recommendation is now to service the 5speed automatic transmission that does not have a dip stick every 25,000 miles. Unfortunately mine has 56,000 miles and was leaking again. I had a warranty repair for leaking about 24,000 miles and full service at 30,000. Now very much out of warranty I elected to have it rebuilt by an independent shop that upgraded many components.
Costly but now performance and shifting greatly improved.

nvbanker · September 2004

So much for "sealed for life", eh? interesting.....

ogbonna · October 2004

This is a question or two on brakes in General (I have a 1998 4WD EXPLORER).
When changing the brakes (or maintenance of) it is advised to lubricate the
calliper (if need be). How is this done and what type of lubricate should be used?
Also what type of lubricate should be applied to the rail..??

Ogbonna. Thanks in advance......

lbond1 · October 2004

I have a '02 explorer xlt approx. 50,000 that is starting to make a groaning noise (with mild or little vibration in steering column) when coming to a stop or when you takeoff from a still position. I first noticed it when I would turn the wheel to pull into my driveway. I don't notice it at higher speeds. Anybody else hear of this--please help! thanks

chuck1 · October 2004

Again,
Not that servicing more is a bad idea, but I would like to see this "factory Ford Recommendation" in writing. I mean, how can they go to "sealed for life" down to service at 25K? I mean all my other cars using standard (non-synthetic) fluid, the manual calls for servicing every 30K. This is what I have followed and has worked very well. So any techs out there? What is the deal on this 2002 Explorer and up tranny, service at 25K, 30K, 50K or never? Whats up?

xgrove · October 2004

Purchased a 04 and had problems with shift delay going into reverse. Dealer at first could not duplicate but after repeated attempts the trans acted up for dealer. Dealer reflashed computer and problem came back 3000 miles later then dealer relaced trans solenoid- seems this is a known problem and the solenoid relacement appears to be the solution. They had to refill trans with 5 quarts of mercon V fluid so it seems refilling trans is not that big a deal.

nvbanker · October 2004

"so it seems refilling trans is not that big a deal."

Oh yeah? Then U try it!

Actually, it's not, if you have the right equipment, which most dealers do. Otherwise, it's a pain, as it has to be done from the bottom.

tweedie · October 2004

Never in my life have I had a car where falling acorns would "pock mark" or otherwise dent the metal on my vehicle. People ask me what is going on with all the marble sized dents and I tell them it's acorn damage. How depressing to have a new car that dents so easily. This has never happened to any car I've owned before and they all have had acorns fall from my trees upon them. I am shocked! Is the car made of tin foil? I am not kidding---50 plus little dents.

chuck1 · October 2004

Not sure what year you have, but the hood on the 2002's and up are made of fiberglass. There is something else going on other than acorns. As far as the thickness of the metal is concerned, try taking a look at a Toyota, Honda, or especially a Hyundai, very thin metal on those. If the "pock marks" are this visible, I would find some where else to park. It's going to kill any chance of a resale. They are bad enough as it is.....
Chuck
2002 XLT 4.0 SOHC
2 WD

tweedie · October 2004

chuck1

When I say it's acorns I mean it is acorns.

Nothing else is going on.

nvbanker · October 2004

What year is the Mountaineer, tweedie? Fiberglass doesn't dent. And I agree with Chuck - I had a 94 (still have it) Explorer, and a 97 and a 98 Mountaineer that seemed quite substantial in the metal area to me, but my Honda Civic, that was another matter. Lighter than Budweiser cans...by design.

We aren't saying we don't believe you, but it's darn unusual that an acorn would dent it. It is denting the hood only, or just the roof, or both?

tweedie · October 2004

Acorns. No doubt about it.
Incredible but true. Your disbeleaf if understadable because it is outrageously odd.

Hoot is major area but the roof actually has little marble sized dents, almost circular and about .5 inch in diameter to reflect the size of the acorn. Acorns are smooth surfaced so there is no paint damage just a little indentation the size of a marble. When they fall they go "bang" as the come down from about up to 50 feet.

I am dead serious. I watched it happen. No other explanation. I've lived here 20 years and this is the worst. My wifes Chryler has one or two dents too upon careful inspection but very shallow and hard to notice versus the mighty Merc that looks like the Moon!

Log this is as a "believe it or not" story. Please though, don't spend much time trying to think of alternative explanations because there are no other possibilities, unless we want to consider alien beings or something like that.

gasburner · October 2004

I have a 99 XLT V8 w/ Sport Package. So far I've been pleased with the truck and have had no major problems. I've 2 issues for which I'm looking for feedback.
1. I hear a clunk/ rattle noise when going over bumps, which sounds to be coming from inside the truck, just under the glove box, possibly from part of the air duct system for the A/C & heater. Also it seems like the AC isn't blowing as cold as it used to. Does this sound like the "blend door" issue I've read about?

2. The flat black paint on the upper rear part of the drivers door is turning really soft where the hand touches it to open and close the door. So soft you can scratch off the paint with your fingernail (like some kind of chemical reaction going on to weaken the paint). I've also seen other Explorers with this flat black paint in bad shape. Ford must have know about this issue as, the following year (a friend has a 2000)this portion of the door (and the upper front portion of the rear door) was painted with a gloss black paint. This gloss black appears to be holding up just fine. Anybody have this issue? Anybody have Ford pick up the tab to repaint this area with better paint? >>> I had a Blazer that Chevy totally repainted (on their nickel) after 5 yrs, and the paint on the Blazer was in much better shape than this black area on the Explorer.

explorerx4 · October 2004

this probably isn't the rattle problem, but it sounds similar one we had on our early model explorer. i thought it was something in the right front suspension. check the exhaust system integrity. replaced it with another factory setup and didn't have the problem after that.

jamchan · October 2004

I have a 2002 Explorer XLT 4x4 with rear air and 3rd row. I am looking for the keyless entry code that is supposed to be on a sticker found on a computer.

I removed the rear driver side passenger door panel...and found no computer. I looked behind the rear driverside panel, and found the ac unit and couldn't really see anything resembling a computer.

Is there any other possible location for the computer? What specific type of computer am I looking for? Or what are the computers dimensions, color? Do I have to remove the rear panel completely? Is the computer possibly behind the ac unit?

Thanks

redmountain · October 2004

My 2002 Mountaineer w/45,000 mi. has a small leak at the differential right half-shaft seal at the diff. case. Is this a common problem or unique to mine?

nvbanker · October 2004

First, I'm assuming you don't have the owner's manual with the little card that has the code on it. If I'm right, then.....

a) It's a white sticker, with black numbers, 5 of them on it, and it should be on something that's visible from under the dash, driver's side. Hard to get to for me, but possible. The computer you seek is probably behind the panel in the cargo bay, on the side opposite the air conditioner. But I doubt the sticker is on the computer. That computer, by the way is the body control module I think, and is way expensive, so don't mess with it.

Your dealer can get your code from the vin number off their computer. If they want to be nice about it, they won't charge you an arm and a leg to look it up.

ogbonna · October 2004

Has anyone ever done this repair on a 4wd 1998 Explorer????? If so can I get some tips on this.
I need to repair the right side.

Email washijl@auburn.edu

nitromax · October 2004

I have a 99 XLT V8 w/ Sport Package. So far I've been pleased with the truck and have had no major problems. I've 2 issues for which I'm looking for feedback.
1. I hear a clunk/ rattle noise when going over bumps, which sounds to be coming from inside the truck, just under the glove box, possibly from part of the air duct system for the A/C & heater. Also it seems like the AC isn't blowing as cold as it used to. Does this sound like the "blend door" issue I've read about?

Sounds like your upper ball joint. I had the same problem with my 97 Sport.
You didn't say how many miles were on it, but mine went around 60,000 miles. I had to get the upper and lower ball joints replaced.
Mine sounded like a subtle clunk when going over gradual bumps (speed bumps)

gasburner · October 2004

Nitro,
Thanks for the reply. I have about 50K mi. So far the truck has been pretty solid, but the suspension is an area of weakness. I don't think it is the ball joint,I've had that problem already and had it replaced under warranty, but I have been noticing a little play in stop and go traffic. Just to be sure I'll check it again.

This sound is different, more like a rattle sound, and I'm pretty sure it is coming from inside the car, from the area below the glove box. It seems to be most noticeable when the car/AC is first started.

Any idea about the black paint.

nitromax · October 2004

Any idea about the black paint.

My Explorer, Ranger and Bronco II all had the same issues with the flat black paint. I never bothered to do anything about it.
I believe it's used around the windows and on the wipers to cut down glare to the driver.

My experience with flat black paint is that it never holds up well. The reason it is probably softening and falling off is due to the wind blasting that it has to deal with during regular driving. There's a lot of particulate in the air that acts like a sandblaster to beat on the paint. I've always noticed it flaking off on the windward sides of surfaces. It could also be softening from the oils in your skin. (chemical reaction)
You could try scraping it off, scotch briting the trim and then re-touching it with new paint.(perhaps with a brush since you're dealing with a narrow area)

The gloss black will hold up better due to it's durability but it will add glare. (personally, I think the flat black looks better though)

marym · October 2004

I HAVE A 2000 FORD EXPLORE XLT THAT DOES THE SAME THING.

I TOOK IT TO AUTO ZONE AND HAD A READING DONE ON IT, IT CAME UP IDLE AIR CONTROL UNDERSPEED.

I'M TAKING IT TO A LOCAL MECHANICE NEXT WEEK, WELL LET YOU KNOW IF THAT FIXES THE PROBLEM.

ajmtbm · October 2004

Hello. I just received a recall notice about the rear liftgate glass on 2002-03 Explorer.

1. Anybody know what exactly the fix is?
2. Should I really not use this until i get it fixed or are they being overly cautious.

Not using this liftgate would be a huge inconvenience - and the notice indicated the replacement parts are due in late November!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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