Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

gee35coupe · May 2004

Happened to my mom's Camry at some ungodly high mileage. Like 180K or so.

jaucoin · May 2004

Was that in reply to my post about the problem when I turn on the air conditioner? (Post #7531).

chucko3 · May 2004

Happened to my 89 Accord two years ago at around 170k+ also.
The A/C compressor made a high pitch sound. The clutch did not engage. I let it ran for a couple minutes then shuted it off.
The next day when I tried to turn it on again. Nothing happened.
The two fans didn't come on either.
I didn't bother to find out why because it probably costs more than the value of the car.
I am happy the compressor lasted over 170k miles.

auburn63 · May 2004

or it could just be a worn out belt or loose ac belt that is slipping under load..

gee35coupe · May 2004

I'd take a looksee. If the belt looks loose or frayed it may by the culprit. But if the squeak is more mechanical grinding(like my mom's) it's the compressor.

01accordlx · May 2004

I bought an '01 Accord about three months ago and took it on it's first long trip this weekend (650 miles). Now, I have noticed a small leak of what seems to be oil. I had the 30,000 mile checkup done a week before the trip. Is this leak to be expected after a long trip, or is it time for a trip to the dealer? Thanks...

ral2167 · May 2004

new 2004 sedan... the sunglasses holder won't stay closed-- we shut it-- a few seconds later it opens by itself.... kinda amusing in a way.. we shut it "hard"-- we shut it "soft"-- same thing happens-- it opens.... warranty item but just was curious if anyone else had this problem? thanks

bd21 · May 2004

Why yes after you drive Honda's on long trips all the fluids leak out, it's a design feature to get you to add new fluids. I can't believe no one told you about this unique feature. Are you for real! Take your car to the shop and have it looked at, NO car leaks anything except water from the a/c system unless something is wrong.

justin · May 2004

i fear i might have the infamous Accord rattles. now that it is warm, and the car is "looser", i hear noise in the headliner, more towards the passenger side, and also a slight rattle in my drivers door. if i elbow the door it goes away.

any TSB's for those? anyone have any successful fixes? they aren't really too bad, but i tend to be a little crazy about my cars..

thanks!

anonymousposts · May 2004

A few people have had to have their sunglass holder adjusted. The one in our 2004 sedan hasn't had this problem though.

chucko3 · May 2004

Check to see if the leak is at the oil plug or around the valve cover gasket. A valve cover gasket is cheap to replace.

daeven · May 2004

My 03 EX V6 has the problem with the power driver's side seat shifting to the right on left turns. I know I read about that here, but my dealer claims that is normal and doesn't want to fix it. Tell me others have gotten this repaired.

On the other hand, I also have a paint "bubble" on the hood. They are replacing the hood. So I'm stuck with a Nissan Sentra rental for a week.

swordfish555 · May 2004

I have a 2004 Accord EX and the rear part of the headliner at the rear window in the middle will not stay up. My dealer tried once & I tried to glue it up all with no success. Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks

blane · May 2004

ral2167:

The dealer replaced the entire overhead console containing my "droopy" sunglass holder, under warranty. The new Sunglass holder stays where it belongs.

01accordlx · May 2004

bd21, sarcasm noted. Thanks for wasting my time with your childish humor rather than providing a simple answer.

Chucko3, thanks for the genuine advice!

rumpletzer · May 2004

mine's being covered under warranty too... the dealership ordered a new one for me three weeks ago, but they couldn't find it when i called today to ask what's up... grr!

bd21 · May 2004

I gave you the right advice, which was take it to a dealer. I have over 30 years of experience working on cars, and I have read this board daily and have answered many questions for years. Your question merited humor, because anyone that would think a car was made to leak oil is set up to always be at the mercy of whoever they take there car to for repairs. If you would have said you just had your car serviced and you noticed an oil leak, you would have gotten a strait answer from me. Next time, think about what you are posting so you don't sound so silly.

jaucoin · May 2004

Yup, it turned to to be a dead A/C compressor. The clutch mechanism (of the A/C) was OK, but I needed a new compressor (plus a leak test, etc.). It cost me almost $800 (the clutch mechanism would have added another $300, so I guess I got lucky in some respects).

So ... how typical is it for the A/C compressor to go on Hondas, and at what mileage? My car has 101,000 miles. Plus, I live in the Northeast, and don't use the A/C very much. (Mostly to clear up the windshield, to tell the truth). Also, the A/C had not been producing very cold air for some time, so I wonder if it had been ailing for a long time before it completely died?

What else lies in store for me around the corner? (I.e., what can I expect to go next). It's a 1997 Honda.

Thanks.

gregoryc1 · May 2004

01accordlx asked a question. He deserved a professional answer, free of "sarcasm". You had a choice. You did not have to respond!

imidazol97 · May 2004

Probably the poor cooling was due to lack of freon and thus poor lubrication when it was being run. It should have been checked as soon as it didn't seem to cool satisfactory.

Proper servicing then might mean your compressor would be still running today.

whitecloud1 · May 2004

'97 Honda, '86 Dodge. Same problem. Might have been prevented if you had run the AC more often.
It's recommended that the AC be turned on occasionally during cold weather too. It helps in keeping things lubed. One more thing,, and it might be too late for this but I was told once that my compressor needed to be replaced on my '86 Dodge by two different mechanics. I tried one more place (AC specialists) and they had me cooling the interior in 1/2 a day for $200. Most mechanics can't know everything and sometimes it pays to go to a specialist.

Karen_S · May 2004

Let's remember this topic is about Honda Accords P&S, not about problems we may have with other members.

kareshi · May 2004

Hi all,

My 03 EX front emblem was stolen and so I bought another one. However installation isn't simple as it requires removal of some parts. I tried to ask the dealer to install but they suggested to glue it to save $$. However in Toronto here winter is cold and summer is hot. Would any of you recommend using krazy glue to fix it? It's a cheaper solution obviously..

THanks.

wgorilla · May 2004

We didn't have that exact same problem with our '04 Accord, but we must have taken it in six or seven times for the dealer to adjust the headliner so it wouldn't rattle or squeak. They finally got it to where it would stop, but I wouldn't bet a dollar that it will never come back again. You may have done so already, but you might do a search on "headliner" in this discussion. There are a considerable number of quality problems contained herein on the subject.

chucko3 · May 2004

I agree with the others. Your car could be running low on freon. Continue running low on freon will damage the compressor. So if you are going to replace the compessor, I would also ask them to check/recharge the freon.

At 101k, have you had the timing belt changed yet? That's what you can expect to go next. The timing belt job (all belts & water pump & seals) costs around +/- $500.

jaucoin · May 2004

Hi. Thanks for the reply (and to the others who replied also). When they replaced the compressor, they also recharged the system. So I'm all set for the time being. After I saw your reply (and some of the others that said the same thing), I called the dealer's service dept., and asked if I should be periodically recharging the freon, or else run the risk of damaging the compressor. The service rep. said that she had never heard of that causing a problem with a compressor before, and that it was more a question of did I want the A/C to be colder or not. (It wasn't that it didn't work at all, it just wasn't as cold as it was originally).

What do you think about her reply?

As far as the timing belt: yes, as a matter of fact, that was what I had originally scheduled the service for. They replaced the timing belt (and water pump, which I think they normally do at the same time). It cost $700 for that, though, not $500. And that was with a 10% discount coupon applied to the service.

anonymousposts · May 2004

$700 for a timing belt? Wow. We had one done on a 91 Accord and paid $375 including the water pump and all the seals.

77hchbck · May 2004

Inflation can do strange things to cost. What year was that? Honda or Independent? I shopped around in my area (SE La) and the cost for water pump/belts and seals was $500-$640 at Honda and independents. It pays to shop around, but I wanted someone familiar with Honda's products wrenching mine.

I had to travel 12 miles further than my buying dealer, but the Honda dealer in Gulfport, Ms was the best price for me. We now have a Honda dealer in my home town. I'll price them next time. I sure miss my dad's rack and pneumatic tools.

anonymousposts · May 2004

It was 2 years ago. We had it done at an independent Honda/Acura specialist but they matched the price off of a coupon from a local Honda dealer.

chucko3 · May 2004

<<<What do you think about her reply?>>>

I think the service dept.'s job is to replace a broken compressor.
It does not care to find out the cause. Does anyone actually come to the service the dept and tell them my compressor broken because I ran it on low freon? If anyone happens to ask why it went. I guess the answer would be "it's time".

The owner's manual does state "prolong use of undercharge system may damage the compressor".

chucko3 · May 2004

$375 w/ coupon. That sounds right.
Have my 89 done 1 1/2 years ago. It cost $400+ .
A different deal cost $75 more. So it's pay to shop around.

starih · May 2004

Hi,

I bought the same model car as yours on March 31,2004 and have complained about the same "clunking feel" the last FIVE times I was at the dealer. I went in for a variety of reasons that you'll be able to see in the past posts. The latest and greatest is they changed the brake buster because I had a metallic rubbing feel to the brakes when applied. The problem no longer exist when braking in city driving. However, the same metallic rub exist now that I'm driving on the freeway and have to slow down. That is a scary feeling.

I'm still having intermittent non-start ups which they cannot duplicate and are blaming it on the sensor of my keys, but did not issue me with new keys. In a nut shell, they did nothing about this "major" problem.

Getting back to your problem. The service manager gave me a copy of either a TSB or is it a regular Honda Service Bulletin they receive monthly. The bottom just says March 2004.

"ABS Grunts When Doing a Self-Check

NOTE: This article applies to '98-04 Accords, '96-04 Civics, '97-04CR-V's, '00-04 Insights, '98-04 Odysseys, '03-04 Pilots, and '00-04 S2000s.

Are owners of vehicles with a "compact" ABS complaining of hearing a short grunt or groan when backing or moving the vehicle forward after it's been sitting awhile? It could just be the ABS doing its self-check. A compact ABS has a modulator, a pump, and an accumulator all rolled into one. (Later model vehicles don't even use an accumulator.) The system is designed to do a self-check when the vehicle reaches a speed of at least 7mph either forward or backward after sitting. So the grunt is normal; it doesn't mean there's a problem with the ABS. On some models, you'll even feel a vibration through the brake and accelerator peds when you hear the noise.

You can show your customer just how this ABS self-check works by connecting the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the 16P data link connector, and running the ABS function test. (This test cycles the ABS solenoid and runs the ABS pump.) The noise from the test may be louder than the noise made by the actual ABS self-check, but it lets your customer hear the noise and helps you to determine if the noise is ABS-related or coming from another source."

Hope this helps. My Honda has been in the shop for at least 15 out of 40 days and talking about my Honda is becoming a sore topic. I've called to speak with the General Manager about 10 times and have yet to speak with him. I called American Honda and got a case number and received a message from the case manager and never heard back from him either. I sent a registered letter to both the manufacture and dealer and only received a letter from the dealer stating that they are sorry for the inconvenience and offered a free oil change. Wow, big deal. I wonder why they are going out of their way to avoid me now. Because these are the same folks whom had plenty of time and energy to call me day and night when they wanted to me to purchase a vehicle from them.

stevengordon · May 2004

I had rotors replaced on my '99 Accord LX recently. Coincidentally, or maybe not coincidentally, I just noticed that my brake lights (both sides and including the center high-mounted light) fail to light up.

The fuse looks okay--no sign of damage, or defect. (I'm presuming I'd see it if it had gone bad.)

I'm wondering if during replacement of the rotors a sensor's wire was unplugged which is not telling the electrical system to light the brake lights.

Or am I looking in the wrong place for the problem? Any suggestions?

depotbob · May 2004

I am almost ready to buy a 2001 Accord LX with 44M miles. But, the rear drum housings are VERY rusty and the car has alloy wheels. I looked at other 2000's & 2001's on the lot and none of them are as rusted. My concern is that there is something wrong here, but the dealer says the rust won't hurt a thing. Alos, I'm concerned that the excessive rust will cause probelsm with the alloys. I need to make a decision on thsi car in 24 hours. The dealer will not change the drums or alloys without a charge. Onoe more point, this car has been on his lot for 3 months, so I suspect there is something else goofy with this this car, but I can't find it.

anonymousposts · May 2004

If the car has been sitting for 3 months that would explain why there is rust on the brakes. It is probably no big deal if the car stops well and the rust will go away as you use the brakes.

gregoryc1 · May 2004

Is the car a "flood car"???? Look for water marks inside the car, engine compartment and / or trunk. Look under the car. If it shows any signs of being a possible "flood car" DO NOT buy it!

figelwump · May 2004

Thanks starih. Took my car to the dealer a few days back and he gave me the same info. Also, it seems to happen consistently at 10mph, which other people have mentioned is the abs check system.

Sorry to hear about your problems with service-- my car is a couple of weeks old and I'm getting a taste of that as well. Trying to get a deck-lid spoiler installed, and I've had to take it in 3 times already, and they still can't get it right! The first time they ordered the wrong spoiler, next time one edge of spoiler was sticking up off of the surface. Right now there's a screw jiggling and banging around somewhere inside the spoiler... sometimes incompetence never fails.

Does anyone know if it is necessary to get your accessories installed from the dealer where you bought the car from? (Especially now, given that they've already done it a few times?)

apbangi · May 2004

Theory -- grabby brake design of new Hondas (03 and newer) possible root cause of steering wheel viabrations and warped rotors!

Can you figure out why?

ramida

rcc8179 · May 2004

"Theory -- grabby brake design of new Hondas (03 and newer) possible root cause of steering wheel viabrations and warped rotors!"

Your theory is incorrect. The problem with the brakes on the 2003 (and probably early 2004) Accord was the front brake pads. After MANY vehicles coming back again and again with warped rotors, Honda changed the material of the front brake pads. The old pad material was causing too much heat buildup and was warping the rotors. They made the new pads available a few months ago. The new 2004s should have the updated pads from the factory.

My rotors warped at 6000 miles--something I have never done in ANY other car. After having the rotors turned 3 times, Honda came out with the fix. I had the pads replaced in March (30k miles) and at 35k miles the brakes are still smooth. As for the grabby brakes, I like the feel of them much better than brakes where you push the pedal halfway to the floor before you start to slow down. It only took a few stops to get used to them.

kevinv · May 2004

I am trying to do a basic tune-up on my accord by replacing plugs wires distributer cap and rotor, but i am unsure how to remove the rotor. Any ideas? Thanks.

mwcarlso · May 2004

To change the rotor on my 93 Accord, I crank the engine a few times (without starting car) with the distributor cap off to loosen the rotor and then the rotor comes right off. I have changed the rotor at least three times using this method so it should hopefully work for you too.

hawk777 · May 2004

I have an 04 Accord EX V6 with Nav. I tried to re-set going by the instructions in the manual. No luck. I spoke to a honda shop foreman, He said they had just became aware of the problem. Seems like in this car, there is so much of an electrical drain when the ignition is turned on it will not re-set. He said there was a simple fix. The next time I was in town to stop by and they would show me how, said it would take about 15 seconds. I live over a hundred mile away, so it might be a while before I get over that way. Could someone post the fix if they have it. Thanks!! Ed

rcc8179 · May 2004

I have not heard of the reset procedure not working. I think I can explain the procedure better than the manual:

1. Turn key to ON position (with engine off).
2. Press trip reset button and hold it down.
3. Turn key to START position and start the engine (while continuing to hold the reset button down). Release the key when the engine starts.
4. Continue holding the button for another 10 seconds or so until the light goes off.

When you start pressing the button in step #2, do not release until the light goes out in step #4. This procedure, as the dealer said, takes about 15 seconds total. Also, it will clear whichever trip odometer you have showing when you start the procedure (if this matters to you).

If this is exactly what you did, I am sorry that I cannot be of any help.

mm767 · May 2004

My 2003 Accord EX 4dr windows creak and make a popping noise while driving. If I lower all the windows by an 1/8 of an inch, it seems to cure the problem. Has any dealer corrected this? What did they do? Appreciate any info,

hawk777 · May 2004

Tried the 4 point procedure, but it didn't work. Thanks just the same....Ed

mikeysoft · May 2004

I have a 03 Accord with Nav and have no problems resetting. My steps are a little different. I first hold down the button, then turn the key two positions (acc, on) but I do not start the car. I continue to hold the button an additional 10 seconds when the light goes off. My trip meter is not reset doing it this way.

auburn63 · May 2004

Reset Maint
It sometimes takes several attempts for whatever reason but it does work if you just keep trying. As said before you can just repeat the steps until it works for you:
1, with key off push and hold trip button
2, keep holding trip and turn key to on position
(lights on dash are on at this point)
3, once maint. light goes out turn key off then release trip button.
4 start car and repeat if light is still on..Good luck

Accord window creak
we use shin et su greese on the seal and this helps the noise. you can get this at the dealer..

chucko3 · May 2004

I concur with your procedures & the result. I did it last month with my 03EXV6.
No need to start the car while holding down the button.

silvercoupe · May 2004

The speedometer on my son's 91 Accord seems to have a mind of it's own and works only occasionally. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?

sockpuppet1969 · May 2004

My '03 EX-L has the same problem. Seat shifts when turning. Anyone aware of a TSB on this please speak up. Otherwise I really love the car.

I live in NC and now that the temperature is regularly in the 90's, the 4 cyl sometimes feels a little overwhelmed with the A/C on (manual transmission). Just turned 19K miles. Some other small annoyances include...

1. Paint seems to scratch/chip easily, especially on the hood.
2. Sunroof rattles in cold weather.
3. One of the driver's seat leather panels seems to be wearing/fading prematurely.
4. Navigation DVD holder occupies a strategic place in the trunk (top center) and limits storage space when hauling larger stuff.
5. Lack of split fold-down rear seat.

Of course these are all greatly outweighed by everything else the car has to offer (luxury, value, ride & handling, economy, reliability to name a few). It is a little disappointing to have the seat shift just when you start having fun in the twisties though... (My '89 MR2 never did that! - now that was a great car)

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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