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Thank you
Canio in Delaware
The two vents, on either side of the steering wheel were giving off warmer air than the rest of the vents in the van. Needless to say, everyone else in the car was freezing and I was still sweating. I went to two different service stations to see if they could figure out was was wrong and they both only shook their heads in confusion.
Has anyone every had this problem or a similar one, and is there a way to fix it without costing lots of money.
Thanks;
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Make sure the drain is really open. Support front of car with a jackstand, and look up from under the firewall and find the tube where the water drains out of the case and open it with a coat hanger or similar small wire. It might be partly clogged.
On some car shows they mention companies have a foam that goes into the heater case and fills the case and puts antimold chemical all throughout the case. Certain models have had problems; they tell the mechanic exactly where to drill a hole in the case to insert the tube from the can for the foam. I don't know if something similar is available for a generic fix... You might ask at a Buick garage since that cars the same as a Century or Skylark.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks.
thanks,
MrShiftright
Host
This is the same way on all settings vent,a/c norm,a/c max,heater or defrost.
It seems that the dampers or working that i can check. Is there a main baffle for the air to enter the duct.Can some help me with this problem? Thanks
IF you have no vacuum to the inside, start with the easy things.
If I recall correctly my 93 LeSabre had a small box up behind the engine in the box that crosses under the air intakes where the fuses and power center is. The small box stored vacuum from the motor. Check the lines to and from that. Then trace the small line to the inside of the car if you have vacuum at the storage box.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I could sure use some help with this as my son is about to head for school very soon (west coast to the east coast) and we had this surprise pop up.
Thanks
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
For future people that come accross the same issue. It is the blow resistor. A $10 part. on an 01 Durango it is located under the glove box. You don't have to remove anything to get to it. There are 2 5/16 bolts that hold it into place. It will help to have a long (thin) socket to get to one of the bolts. Pop it out, replace and stick it back it.
If I can do it anyone can.
Oh and my car is a 1995 Nissan 200SX SE.
Thanks!
I looked all about the dash and under it by getting on the floor with a flashlight. I found a very small "pod" with a small pipe sticking out and not too far away discovered a very small yellow hose that looked like a piece of wire.........
BINGO..........pluged it in and it works great
Thanks again
dave
I have drilled into the evap housing and blown it out with compressed air, yet it still leaks.
I have used silicone around the area to what I would have thought would be excess, yet it still leaks.
Any thoughts?
I wish I could see a diagram of this evap housing part so I would know what I am dealing with.
Thanks for any help you can give
If it means taking out the dash, we will live with the problem and direct the air flow to passengers by adjusting sun visors.
Run motor for a short time, then pull off the vacuum lines to see if vacuum is being held in each stage of the flow of the vacuum line.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Mine doesn't seem as good as I hoped for compared to other vehicles I have owned before. But I did notice that one cool evening while driving when the outside temp was 68F that the air from the vents seemed warmer than the outside air.
So I did a quick check and measured the vent temp. With A/C off, fan set at 2 (4 Max), recir off, outside switch on, switch to upper vents, temp to coldest, windows up, idling. The test was done at about 9:00PM so the sun was not an issue. The temp out the vent was 80F after 5 minutes while the temp outside was 68F. A 12 F difference. Seems high to me. Even with the fan speed at 4 made no difference. I checked 2 other vehicles we own and found a 2F difference. Can anybody help me out? Trying to find out why the big difference in temp. Air passing through the hot engine bay before being sucked into the car? Cables or vacuum not working? Cool air mixing with hot air from the heater core? No expert when it comes to A/C but being comfortable at 68F (no A/C) or uncomfortable at 80F (no A/C) looks like I need to use the A/C even when I shouldn't have to.
Thank you
Appreciate all input I can get.
accord95
Since then, the intermittent problem became progressively worse until it didn't work more often than it did. I did some research and learned that the Blower Motor Resistor goes out fairly frequently on my model of car, but the symptoms don't seem to match. Everyone with a bad resistor says that it still works, but only at certain fan speeds (high but not low, or vice versa), but mine not does not blow at all. I decided to replace the blower motor itself. Got the new motor installed and tested it out. It now blows, but very softly -- the highest fan speed setting is a little softer than what used to be "low".
Some facts to help anyone who might be able to assist me in diagnosing the problem:
-The fan does change speeds when you move the dial -- definitely four distinct speeds,
- The little air that does make it out the vents is ice cold.
- The air does come out where you tell it to (if the dial is set to defrost, floor, mix, etc., it comes out the appropriate vents.
-Before I replaced the motor, sometimes going over a pothole or rough patch of road would bring it back to life for a few seconds.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I live in Phoenix, and it is HOT.
The blower does work but it blows hot air. The dealership said the freon was charged and no leaks. If they by-passed the main A/C control unit the compressor would kick in but it would only kick in if they by-passed the main control unit. When I push the A/C button the light come on but it doesn't seem to make things work. We checked all the fuses and they all check out okay. We tried putting in a used A/C control unit from a different van that we knew worked and no change in the problem. Is there other things I should check before paying $$$ that I don't have to spend? Any help
I also would like to see this.
Pls advise
Yesterday my brother and I got into the problem and fixed it. We tooked out most of the dash until we found the problem.
It was a stopped up evaperator.
Thanks again this site is very helpful to us all.
Hmm....sounds a lot like my situation. I have a 95 Civic, roughly same mileage to your Accord and have been experiencing similar problem of late. When it is really hot outside, the problem is worse, A/C hardly works at all or if it does, it cuts out quickly and does not come back. But when it is just a little cooler, like evenings & early morning, I try A/C for the heck of it and sure enough, seems to work fine, though it will still eventually tend to disapppear for a short while (still blowing) and then usually comes back.
Seems to me that this started after I had my mechanic top up the coolant last time I was in for an oil change. Prior to that, A/C was a little weaker than optimal (hence request for top-up) but steady.
On another site, it was written that this kind of problem usually results when system freezes up because there is air/moisture in the system - does that sound like it could be the case here? I hope so, 'cuz their recommended solution, evacuating the system with a vacuum pump, is a lot more appealing than what your dealer mechanics are proposing...
Regards,
Ken
Host
Your a/c problem is a tough one to diag. online ,but here goes.
That a/c is controled by the computer by providing a ground to the a/c relay
after it see's input from different sensors , a/c pressure switches ( these are in line
in the a/c hoses , check to see if they are connected or loose ) two or three of these are used . Next ,coolant fans must both work ( high eng. coolant temps. a/c
cuts off to protect engine )the wiring to a/c compressor & computer is good because it can be commanded on by the dealer using there tech-2 tool .But when
you goto the inside a/c controls the sys. tries to protect it's self & cut a/c sys. off
Look for loose wires at pass. side near rad. at a/c lines HTH
( you don't want them to learn on yours ) there are some common problems that
cause the problem to happen only on Geo's HTH
Don't post in CAPS LOCK-- 95% of all users will ignore your posts, they are too hard to read.
Never post your e-mail address in the body of the text as it can be read by "spiders" and you'll get tons of spam.
MrShiftright
Host
I have a buick with climate control that is doing the same thing. Did you ever get a solution to that problem?
Natalie
Sorry for posting my other posts in CAPS..........i didn't know
You should hear air rushing in to fill the vacuum. The storage tank should hold a vacuum for maybe 20 seconds and more.
If not, check to be sure one of the tubes is connected to the air intake portion of the motor. Of you can run the motor and see if you have vacuum coming to the tank by putting a moist finger over the opening of the tube.
If you have vacuum there, then you need to take off any panels above your toes under the dash--usually two or 3 screws and get access where the glove box is. You need to check the vacuum hose as it comes into the car from that storage tank. There will be a purple tube going to the black vacuum line and a connector where you can pull them apart to check for vacuum from the motor when it's running. You need to lie on the floor of the car with your legs hanging out the passenger door.
Any questions feel free to ask. I've spent hours working on my system since Christmas.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The dealer first changed a leaking schraeder valve, the changed some sort of A/C switch, but it still does the same thing. Does anyone know the problem?
My question: What would cause the driver side to blow hot air but not the other side? Does anyone have an owner’s manual (English please) for this car?
I currently live in ITALY and have a euro spec. I would take it to a dealer but the car displays problems in German, the dealer speaks Italian, add mechanic talk in the mix and my southern vocabulary and you have a hell of a time.
Thanks