Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

jerseybluesman

I own a beautiful 1987 300SDL Mercedes Benz. Over the years I have replaced the air conditioner compressor four times all because of defective speed sensors. Once again the sensor is going bad. When the ac works it does a great job in the warmest of temptures, but when it comes to an idle as of late the ac compressor turns off and I must turn off the car and restart, in order for the compressor to start working again. I love this car and it does look run and perform almost as if it was new. I was wondering if there is a way to by pass the sensor, or if anyone knows of a fix for this problem.
Thanks for your help
Joe J

sd01avalon

Hi,

I just bought a 2001 Avalon with 81,000 miles on it from the original owner. I've come across two problems.

1. When the car starts a large puff of white smoke comes from the exhaust.

2. When the fan is on with the AC off moist warm air comes from the vents.

I'd like to cure this before something molds and I have a bad smell to go along with the current problem.

Any clues??? + :confuse:

burdawg

That white smoke could be steam due to a leaking head gasket or crack somewhere in the engine. Are you sure it's white and not bluish gray? That would indicate oil leaking in the cylinders.
The moist warm air could be due to a leaking heater core.
I think you need some professional diagnosis.

reco2reco

I have a similar problem on my Cadillace Deville, where the heater starts at 24* Cent nice and warm and after like 10 mins it starts blowing cool air. On max of 32* Cent. it blows nice hot air, but on the lower comfortables temps the Climate Control does not seem to work very fine. I was wondering if you got yours resolved and what was the resolution. I think Candillac and Buick are very similar in their Climate Control. I am going to the Dealership for the Expensive Diagnosis, but trying desperately I can avoid that...

chaddy

I have a problem with my 1999 voyager van. When I move the passenger side climate control from cold to hot noting happens. The driver side works fine but not the passengers side.Any ideas on this problem?

wwest

When you switch off the A/C, even as long ago as say, 36 hours ago, then when you first use the system all of the condensate from the A/C's previous use will now exhaust from the A/C plenum.

Go to airsept.com and check out their EED for more information and a possible solution.

jess13

I am having a problem with my AC and my heater everytime I try to turn it on to defrost the windows or if it is really hot it makes a really loud knocking noise and doesn't really work--it sounds either like something is stuck inside of it (and I know that isn't it) or like something is going out--someone told me it is the AC condenser but another person told me if it were the AC condenser it wouldn't blow cold air out. I don't know what is wrong with the car and I would be exstatic if someone could Clue me in...any suggestions?

mte2005

I have a 2000 Jaguar S-Type. My heat worked fine last year. This year I turn my heat on and it blows cold air. Some times it will blow hot air for a minute of so but the majority of the time it blows cold air only. Please advise!!!!

kelley4

I have a 99 Volvo stationwagon whose air conditioning does not work at high outside temperatures - the cool air turns on and then after a few minutes makes a strange odor, the vents get a bit wet with condensation and then it is just hot air. It works however at lower outside temps. The Volvo dealer says that I need to replace the compressor for $1K. I haven't done it since I do not understand how something can be broken and still work. If I do need to replace - does it need to cost this much?? Please help. Any ideas??

wwest

It sounds as if maybe your engine is on the verge of overheating and the AC is being disabled to prevent that.

vandriver1

I have a Ford E350 15 Passenger van that only blows cold (no matter what temp settings or defrost, vent ect) in front but blows hot from the rear vents. Interestingly about a month ago in front it only blew hot air. Any ideas or insights are appreciated.

andys120

Read your manual carefully. My car (not a Jag) has a complex set of air vents and if they aren't opened properly the heat or A/C won't be directed to where yo are.

intermitac05

At 4000 miles ac problems began when in Auto, and Recirculate the unit acted like it was possessed, it would switch fan from face to floor and put out hot air instead of cooling. The dealer claims to have repaired that issue by securing an intermittent connector by the drivers left foot. However the unit will not stay latched in Recirculate. Has anyone experienced this problem?

unclehappy

Everything is working correctly that I know of the water is circulating, the water pump is ok, the sensors, the hoses,all ok, the core is ok,4 different mechanics are stumped, it only blows out cold air unless you take the largest heater hose off and cap it with your finger then and only then does the heater work properly, but when you replace the hose it blows cold again, the thermostat is the correct one, we have flushed the radiator,cleared all the other components,and all is clear, the only thing we can figure is the water is not circulating back to the radiator right,it is almost as if the water pump is working against itself?????? Still only a theory!!! Very stumped, H E L P !
:confuse:

pearl

I have a 97 528 that has been a great car (now over 132K miles). Recently, the A/C simply stopped blowing cold air. I checked the fuses - all OK, so I took it to my dealer who said that "at minimum it needs a new compressor and new dryer" which will be "minimum" $1700, and probably over $2000 after they replace other A/C related things. They may be correct, however, this also sounds like they don't have a clue and are simply going to replace most of the A/C components knowing this will fix whatever is truly wrong. At this point in its life, I am not keen on dropping this much money on a nine year old car. I plan to try an independent shop; however, wondered if anyone else has had BMW A/C problems - looking for any common threads.

Mr_Shiftright

it depends on whether your compressor is seized or not. If it is seized then the dealer is probably correct. But if the compressor is not seized, I would proceed with a diagnosis for freon leak or electrical/sensor issues first.

You need to replace the dryer when the compressor seizes, and possibly the expansion valve, because debris from the seized compressor contaminates the entire system. Big job.

Good idea, get a second opinion.

burdawg

It's a good idea to have more than one shop look at it, on the off chance it's been diagnosed wrong, but that price sounds about right to me. At that mileage and age the seals in the compressor are probably bad and have allowed the freon to escape, or the compressor is worn out and can no longer compress the gas back to a liquid.
The receiver/dryer should be replaced anytime the system is opened up since it can contaminate easily and is a vital component.
Add to that the "you may as wells", other components (hoses especially) that are suspect and may fail soon, and it's not hard to run up a big repair bill.
You can try independants, you will probably save on lower shop rates, but be aware as to the quality of the parts they will be using. The dealer is probably quoting you for a new compressor, while independants may use a rebuilt, just as an example.

dawg81

2001 T&C, LXI:
My T&C has automatic climate control, and when the POWER button is off, the blower up inside the dash goes full blast. Next, When I turn the fan speed control knob, the AC goes on (at least that is working ok and the temperature setting functions correctly in both heat and A/c mode.)
However, the blower will not stop

I thought the programming got scrambled---when I replaced the battery for second time in two years. However, nothing bad happened when the battery was replaced about two months ago. (I read somewhere that if you take the battery out--the computer gets boogered .
No clue as of yet. Any ideas?

dawg81 :confuse:

kennewickman

Dawg,

I dont know what the problem is, but I thought you might be comforted in knowing that I have the same issue with my 2002 G/C. Hope someone out there knows. My fan runs in high with the power off and runs medium with power on, but fan speed is not adjustable even with power on just runs at constant speed.

feller30

A couple of days ago, my defrost and heater started blowing only cold air out. It will not blow hot air at all. I have had a couple of people look at it and they cannot seem to figure out why. What can I do?

cthielen

I have a 1993 Lesabre 3800 I inherited with low miles. Problem is that the climate controls have a mind of their own. They work fine for a while then will either change (usually to Defrost) on their own, or the buttons for selection of location just won't work. I hear clicking behind the glove box like their is a short.

I pulled the box, but am not sure what I'm looking for. Bunch of stuff for the air bag with all kinds of warning labels. Anyone know if the problem is back in the mass of wires or likely just the control unit itself?

imidazol97

Which air conditioner do you have, manual where you have a lever to select the temperature or the dual automatic air conditioner where you have a digital temperature readout?

rajdt

My problem is Air Blower in my Ford Econovan 150. It blows air only when I turn a switch to the MAX. If I turn it on lower speeds, it will not work. I thought it was faulty motor, so I bought a new one and installed it. Again, nothing changed. Than, I bought a new switch (on the dash one) and again nothing changed. Does anybody know what could cause the problem??? I'll be thankful for any suggestion.

burdawg

The blower motor resistor assembly is probably open. When you put it in max the resistor is bypassed and the blower is connected to battery directly.
I don't know where it is exactly in your van, but it's a good bet it's in the blower plenum before the heater core. Sometimes it's accessed from the engine bay (on the firewall), sometimes it's under the plenum and accessed from the passengers footwell.

ryanfiala81

My LeSabre has been making a grinding noise that we've traced to the A/C compressor pulley by removing the serpentine belt. It was somewhat obvious already, as metal shavings were readily visible on the pulley. I have a friend who knows bearings and has access to any bearing I may need, so I have the following question:

Does anyone know if the pulley - and possibly the clutch if necessary - can be removed from the A/C compressor, so that I would not have to replace the whole $250 part?

Auto parts stores have already told me that they only carry the complete compressor; however, the pulley and compressor both appear to be in good condition (my A/C has always worked well) - it's just this bearing that is going bad. If anyone has ANY ideas for saving me a lot of money, or can refer me to the proper forum for posting this problem, I'd would very much appreciate it.

imidazol97

You might check with a dealer to see if the parts are available. I understood the clutch and bearing were replaceable on the compressors. That can be done without removing them and evacuating the system, if possible.

I'll check my 98 service manual when I'm home again today.

alcan

I replace GM compressor clutch bearings as a matter of course. Part number from SKF bearings is 5908VAW, every parts supply house in my town carries them, my cost is $27.00 Cdn. On most applications can be done in the vehicle without discharging the AC system by removing the compressor mounting bolts, pulling the clutch, changing the bearing and re-installing the clutch. Requires a clutch remover/installer to get the clutch off and back on. Spray a ton of penetrating oil on the internal threads of the clutch before installing the remover or you'll strip the threads. Straightforward, everyday job.

ryanfiala81

Thanks a million to both of you! I had suspected that you don't chop down a whole tree when one apple turns rotten. I'm glad to see that GM was thinking the same. I'll happily see if I can take care of this job before it gets too cold here in Illinois. I'm immensely grateful that mechanics such as yourselves take the time to answer my questions every time my car begs for my attention.

Thanks again!

PS - When I change out my bearings, I'll let you know how it went.

alcan

You're welcome. Just be careful when dealing with the threads on the hub, they're easy to strip when installing the remover.

ryanfiala81

I had my friend take the part number you provided to his bearings sales rep, and he found that this part number is in fact a seal. My friend thinks that maybe I could use both a bearing and a seal? Or do I just need the bearing? Do you know the part number of the bearing? Or, if not, do you think a dealer would know?

Thanks as always.

drp1

I have a 96 Landcruiser at my home in Puerto Vallarta Mexico. I have added freon to my car ac system two times in the past year. I am told by the shop doing the work that I need to replace my evaporator as it is leaking and if he adds more gas it will leak out within a week. He leaked tested the system in a crude fashion but seems to be confident that the problem is the evaporator. He said he can smell the gas in the car. I would like to know if anyone has any comments about this. thanks for the help drpennipede

Mr_Shiftright

You need either an electronic leak tester or a trace dye and black light to identify AC leaks. They can be very hard to spot. I rather doubt you can "sniff" a freon leak. Freon has no odor, but sometimes the oil they add might have a faint odor.

drp1

should I let them replace the evaporator

sam_fisher666

I gotta no how Digital CLimate Control works for a project at College & I thought that sum1 wud no here?

Mr_Shiftright

Well without testing it, they are guessing. Do you trust their guess? I mean, you are there and I'm not, so I can't judge. You might ask what happens if that doesn't work. I personally don't charge people for being wrong when I do things, but if you guys worked out a deal where if the evaporator doesn't cure the problem, you pay for the part and they eat the labor, that would be fair enough.

vek1

My escort has no heat. There is no air coming out of the vents. I can feel warm air coming out but no heat or air blowing. How much work am I looking at?

tms0407

hi i was wondering if you got any answers to your question i have a 2000 xtype and all i am getting is cold air unless i press the accelerator.

brandt1

My S10 has very little heat and when it is cold out, no heat. Also my fan control only works on the highest setting (4). If parts need to be replaced, where are they located?

dsr177

I just bought a 2006 Camry in Septemberand noticed that when I turn on the heat, there is an odor that comes out.(It doesn't happen with the AC, which is what I turned on when I bought the car in the summer.)I have since test driven other Toyotas ( '06) and notice the same smell. It bothers me, and so I'm looking to trade in my car. Has anyone else had this problem with the new Toyotas? Any suggestions for what to do about it, short of getting rid of the car?

aceday

I have an issue with the climate control computer for automatic control, the dealer wants $900 for a new computer. I can manually turn on the relays for the motor and the ac control, If I bought a manual control unit, can I convert the automatic to manual, and do I need any other parts other than the main control unit? It looks like there is still a part that I would need to convert the vacuum lines to electrical? Any Ideas???

rajdt

A/C sometimes works, sometimes doesn't work! When it works, it is great! Measured temperature, and it is around 40 *F on sunny days (live in Florida!). Didn't check fluid level, but suppose it is OK since it blows very cold air when it works. When it doesn't blow cold air A/C compressor is disengaged. 7-8 months ago I installed a new A/C compressor and everything worked excellent until 2 weeks ago. Do you think it could be some sensor? How many of them are there? I know for two of them - one is on high line, and one is on evaporator housing Which one controls A/C compressor.

imidazol97

What kind of issues are you having?

rajdt

Does anybody knows what could cause the problem in my posted question #405 ? I checked today at dealership, they have a high pressure valve switch and cost around $110.- Could that be remedy???

rollie1

I purchased a 95 mazda millinia s 6 months ago and have had no problems. Now my heat has gone out and no mechanic will work on it because of the engine. Is this a major problem that i have to spend alot of money to have repaired because i have to go to the mazda dealer directly i don't want to get jerked around. The mechanic advised me that the temperature reads 90 but it is not shifting over to the correct temp but it is not a mechanical problem he said temp control. Anyone had this problem?

bjtannaz

Same problem here, any advice on how to fix?

north0f49

Hi Natalie:

Well, it has been a long time since I checked this forum but I will provide a long-overdue answer to your question...

The guy who works on my car suggested way back in late August that the problem was probably a cut-off switch that needed to be replaced and he ordered the part for me, 2-week lead time. Then autumn's cooler weather came along and the urgency kind of dropped off.

A couple of weeks ago I had it in for some work and I remembered so I asked him: hey, did that cut-off switch ever come in?

So he said, yeah as a matter of fact it did. And he installed it (it was a nightmare to get in there) and tested it, seems to be ok, but I guess the real test will be next summer.

Cheers & Season's Greetings,
Ken

bobr8

I have a 93 suburban and every time is start the car there is a knocking sound from the lower ac duct area. It lasts 15 seconds and stops. It does the same thing every time I shut the ignition off. Any similar problems or fixes?? It sounds like a flapper. Again 15 seconds on and 15seconds off.

finec

Another part number for this bearing is 907257. 5908VAW is the Advance part number. Have you been able to pull this repair off? I have a 2000 with the same problem and the noise is making me CRAZY!!! I don't care to spend another $400 right now, though. I originally thought this was a power steering pump issue, because the noise is so similar. I'd be very interested in hearing how it went....

homeseller

I have an 02 Trailblazer. I had this system worked on last July when air from heat and A/C would only work though the defrost and not the vents or floor.

When I had it worked on. They tore my dash apart and said the arms that work the vent were made of plastic and had broken. They said they had to have the system reset by a GM Dealer. Cost over $700.00 dollars.

The problem has started all over. Air though defrost and very little though dash vents, none though floor. The system in the back of SUV works OK.

Remember the good old days when this Kind of stuff never broke?

Any ideas on a possible reset?

help13

love my car but I am starting to hate this car. took it in last month to have problem checked out for the third time, now again no heat. I do not know much about cars, so can anyone out there give me some reasons why my heater does not work. had system flushed the last time.......thanks