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Comments
MrShiftright
Host
In May of '05' I had the original freon (re charged)replaced. The AC worked fine all through last summer.
This year, however, the AC has been far less effective and does not deliver cool air the way it used to.
Does anyone have any first hand experience to share about this model's AC performance, specifically, regarding
susceptibility to (freon)leaks in AC lines, compressor problems, etc? I appreciate your comments.
Today for the first time, I noticed a knocking sound (about 2 seconds apart) coming from behind the dash when I started the truck. If I turned "max" off, it stopped. When I turned "max" back on, it started again. I don't know if this has anything to do with the first problem or not.
Any help, tips, or insight into this problem is much appreciated!
What should our next step be?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Idle drops to nearly stalling when the a/c is turned on. Car will shake then return to somewhat normal after its turned off. Personally I feel the idle is too low, but even after adjustments it reverts back to what it wants. Thus stalling when a/c is on. Any ideas???? Thanks
If a manual setup it's a relay. There is a relay that supplies power to the blower directly to get maximum amperage. It's likely stuck on. There will be another relay that supplies power to the switch inside the car that connects to the various resistors in the resistor group to give lower speeds. I have no idea where the relays would be on your particular car. You might look for them under the hood and try tapping on them with a screwdriver handle. It might make the stuck relay let go where the corrosion has glued the two contacts together.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.autoacforum.com
My question is this...What can I do to help find where the vacuum leak is?
thanks
Otherwise it's a matter of testing each line you can find...a little spit or any harmless liquid that gets sucked into a vacuum joint is a tip-off.
Does anyone know if there is a factory spec as to what the air temp. should be on the Accord?
Any ideas as to the problem? This is virtually a new system at this point (after $2100 - Don't ask why I spent that much on an 11 year old car) --- seems like it ought to do better.
Thanks
Probably what's happening is maybe you aren't posting in the best possible place? This is a topic on climate control, so...
May I make a suggestion. Scan this list, select Mazda, select 626, and then post in one of the general 626 topics that you see. More will be added to this list.
Topics By Make of Car List
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MrShiftright
Host
I'm kind of new to this forum stuff but I really desperately need some help. I originally posted some of my problems in post#1356, 1363 under the RX330. Now I am back to square one.
Just a week ago I traded in a blue RX350 for a bamboo RX350 with full entertainment system. Something I have wanted for a long time and I sunk every dime I had into this car. Now I find that some of the same things are happening that have happened to my previous RX330's. (My previous blue RX350 ran perfectly). I would take it back but I think they sold it.
This is what is happening. During the day, (I live in L.A.) warm climate the car runs perfectly. No problems. As soon as the weather changes, i.e.: I park the car and go to a restaurant for dinner. The temperature when I come out is about 65. The car runs smoothly but now a louder than normal groan/humming sound is coming from where I don't know.
Until I tried switching off the a/c. The noise stopped. I took it to dealer. I asked if it was a serious engine problem or perhaps the a/c condenser? They didn't know because it was warm and they could not duplicate the noise, but would check with a fact rep soon. I am really worried this time. If it's the condenser, hell I'll pay for it. But why does this happen when outside temp changes? Next week we are supposed to have cooler weather and I expect this problem will continue all the time then. It's very embarrassing to listen to this noise when passengers in the car ask what is wrong. I really love the car but cant see living it with this problem forever.
I just don't understand I guess. I mean when I switch the a/c off it stops. So I guess it may be the compressor/condensor. I don't know. Yet while listening very carefully I think, I mean I think it is coming from the right side of the engine. This is just a guess is all.
One other strange thing. When I sit in the driver's seat of course I hear the noise. If I put my head down like trying to get underneath the instrument panel I cannot hear the noise! So maybe it has something to do with other components near the top of the engine. I just don't know.
I hope I am emailing you in order and I am sorry for taking any of your valuable time, but I am really at the end of my rope now. Considering I am 73 and somewhat sick I thought this car would last me until I die, but I don't know. I just don't know.
Ron (rpac)
or you could have a cooling fan that has a bad bearing.
It really doesn't sound too bad to me--
This shows the heater location. There are a couple of screws on the heater core. The tubes extend into the engine compartment. People have said a pair of pliers meant to squeeze the wire clamps make it lot easier on some models.
The glovebox should be taken off after the hush panel under the dash.
if you have dual auto control air conditioner there is a programmer box, like a paperback dictionary in size. It has two screws holding it diagonally onto the corner of the heater box you see in the pictures. There is a large electrical connector, a link to left that snaps into a white plastic clip that moves a vane inside the heater, and a small pair of wires on top that have a connector on top of the programmer box that go to a motor that moves a vane inside the heater box. The vacuum lines to the programmer can be left connected.
Manual AC version will look slightly different. The cover to heater box is held by two screws; back has prongs that hold it in place along with sealer caulk along the box.
I'd start with getting the tubes off under the hood to be sure it's doable, then I'd start on the box.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I do have the automatic climate control, and all those vacuum lines/controllers that go with it.
Can't thank you enough for this!
This shows the vacuum tubes at the connection to the programmer box that controls the air conditioning for dual systems. This will be connected into the corner of a plastic box that has the electric connections I mentioned above. I'd try not to disconnect this plastic connector. It's where many people have had problems with collapsing nipples of thin black rubber inside them block the dash vents used for AC from getting vacuum. The connector can be bypassed to get the tubes open for vacuum again. That's another story. Because it's somewhat fragile or touchy-I'd try to just suspend the programmer up out of the way with a string.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You are a font of valuable information, by the way.
Some of the vents will work and move, e.g., the heat may close off for floor only and defrost/floor works. When you put it on AC dash vents there's a vacuum motor that doesn't get vacuum and instead air conditioning air comes out the defrost. Put your hand up there to verify. You may get some air at the floor also. This is the usual problem. Those vacuum motors are above the driver's foot. I think there are 4 motors with 5 connections (two on the one for vents and bilevel).
Run motor and turn off and then leave key on and push buttons while vacuum lasts and you'll hear some vents moving as changes occur. I actually took the tubes off at the vacuum motors and tested for vacuum on the right settings on the AC control where you select AC, heat, etc., and matched up with the service manual I have. For some reason the AC one is the one that goes wrong first and the plastic black nipples inside the connector suck shut.
The fix is just to take the programmer box out, unsnap the lid (might not have to take the box off actually), and write down which color tube inside goes to which color tube outside the magic connector on the corner. The colors aren't the same.
Then cut the tubes off right at the connector. Use 1/8 inch gas line (internal diameter) from NAPA, cut 1.5 inch pieces and lube each small vacuum line with water, slide vacuum lines into both ends of rubber. Close box. Enjoy all vents working again. Other people have used other size vacuum lines to reconnect the inside and outside lines. The heavy rubber gas tube keeps things from rattling
I have a link if you want it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks in advance for help.
Harold
If it's an automatic fan speed control meaning a digital readout automatic air conditioning system, it's probably your blower motor control. It's where the wires coming out of the blower motor (under the hood?) go to on the heater box near the blower. The blower motor relay is electronic and sticks into the air steam inside the heater to cool itself in the air blowing past.
These are available at junkyards, at Advance Auto, and your dealer, in order of increasing price.
Since it's stuck on and your fan is running, we know the blower motor is okay. The other way they fail is errratic operation and no operation. Many fail being stuck on with blower running after it shouldn't.
You may have to move a Relay Center that has relays and main fuses in it that's above the blower and box area. That relay center has a couple of bolts that hold it they say.
Be sure to disconnect negative ground cable at battery before working on any of this.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks again
Harold
I have the exact same problem! Any luck on your end. I read elsewhere to check the coolant level. I'll try that tomorrow and let you know.
No luck! I tried topping off my reserve tank since it was low and still having the same problem. I even tried adding the DEX to the rad directly.
Any luck on your end?
Thanks for the post.
I'm sorry but could you give me some more info?
We're not having an AC issue. AC is off. Its the heat that we have cranked up and all that comes out is cold air. As soon as we press the gas peddle thats when we finally get hot air. If we sit there idling at a red light we start getting cold air again
Locate the two hoses going to the heater core inside the car. After the motor is well warmed up rum the blower on high speed to move air over the heater core and take heat from it. Then feel the two hoses in the engine compartment as near as possible to the heater to see if they are both close to the same temperature. If the water flow through the heater core is unobstructed there will be enough hot water flowing through fast enough that the water coming out isn't cooled down substantially. That means the whole heater core is staying hot and giving lots of heat. If the hose coming out is cool that means only part of the core is hot and the rest gets cooler and cooler as the water in the core cools down before it flows out.
You can try varying the blower speed and try having someone race the motor mildly to see if the increased pump pressure moves water through faster; since it does when you rev the engine to accelerate I believe you'll feel the increased warmth.
I suspect you have a stopped up heater core. It is also possible there is an off valve in the heater line that might not be opening; a few cars use those to turn off flow to the heater to aid air conditioning cooling without the hot heater core affecting the cooling. But GM doesn't use many of those. I have not had one in my cars.
If the coolant wasn't changed every two years or 25-30,000 miles, it may have formed some gunk. If you look at the reservoir tank it may show lots of brown sediment. The orange Dexcool doesn't work well if there is air in the radiator rather than having been filled properly and checkec properly. So don't let people tell you Dexcool is at fault. Rather regular maintenance needs to be done on cooling system.
There may be shops that can run a cleaner through the heater core only that may dissolve the clogging material, if that's the problem. the tubes in the heater are so fine they stop up easily and are hard to clean.
Your trouble will be that many shops love the flush idea for radiators and transmissions and make lots of money from them. You need an honest opinion from an established good mechanic, not a franchise shop with employees right off the street. That's my opinion.
Good luck with the diagnosis.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,