Did I do something wrong on this site? I can't seem to get any answers. I understand there are probably lots of questions, but I have noticed questions posted after mine have been answered. Thanks
If you don't get an answer in a couple of days, re-read your question, see if it's clear or detailed enough (year, make, model) and then re-write if necessary and post again. If you STILL don't get a reply e-mail me and I'll make suggestions to you as to perhaps a better way to phrase the question or a better place to post it. Let me know!
I purchased my 1997 Chrysler Concorde LX new and have since logged 163k miles on it. In May of '05' I had the original freon (re charged)replaced. The AC worked fine all through last summer. This year, however, the AC has been far less effective and does not deliver cool air the way it used to. Does anyone have any first hand experience to share about this model's AC performance, specifically, regarding susceptibility to (freon)leaks in AC lines, compressor problems, etc? I appreciate your comments.
I've got a 2003 Silverado with dual auto climate control. The A/C works fine when not on "max" or "recirculate". But at different times when you push the "max" button, the fan speed steadily climbs to high and stays there, basically freezing me out of the truck. The auto part doesn't seem to work when on "max". After 30-40 minutes, it will start to slow down some. And I've noticed when the truck turns back into the sun (and the light hits the DRL sensor on the dash) the fan speed immediately goes back to high. I can usually resolve the situation by shutting the truck off and letting it set for 10-15 seconds before restarting. But then at different intervals, it will do this again. The auto part of the system works fine when not in "max" mode.
Today for the first time, I noticed a knocking sound (about 2 seconds apart) coming from behind the dash when I started the truck. If I turned "max" off, it stopped. When I turned "max" back on, it started again. I don't know if this has anything to do with the first problem or not.
Any help, tips, or insight into this problem is much appreciated!
I am having a problem with the AC in my 2000 Pontiac Montana Van. Even with the air conditioning on high, it blows hot air. I had it in to the mechanic and he couldn't find a problem, but suggested we put dye in it to see if they could find a leak. They couldn't. He had recharge it and it worked for a couple of days. A few days later, it was blowing hot air again. After looking at it, he suggested that we bring it to a dealer to have them look at it (as he couldn't see anything), and let him know what they said. We paid for an hour tabour at the dealer for them to tell us that we needed a new condenser and that they were not sure if that would fix the problem or not, and they again suggested the dye. We brought it back to our mechanic with the news, and he said that he had checked the condenser, but didn't see a problem. We decided to have our mechanic put in a condenser, it cost less than half than the dealership quoted. Well, here we are a few days later, and we are getting hot air again...
When I turn on the a/c in my car, the compressor activates and its full of charged freon, but no cold air comes through the vents inside. what's wrong and how do i fix it? LOL... :confuse:
I noticed this question from a couple of weeks ago from another member and couldn't locate an answer. I'm curious what thoughts someone may have on this as I am having the SAME problem with my 1995 Mazda 626. Several weeks ago I had the oil changed, fuel injection system cleaned and even the throttle chamber cleaned. But when I turn on the AC my car wants to stall. Should I change the idling speed? Currently the car idles at about 800 unless the AC is turned on, then it runs rough and tries to stall. Thanks! The original post from the other member is quoted below.
Idle drops to nearly stalling when the a/c is turned on. Car will shake then return to somewhat normal after its turned off. Personally I feel the idle is too low, but even after adjustments it reverts back to what it wants. Thus stalling when a/c is on. Any ideas???? Thanks
A few months ago my '95 Silverado stopped putting out air(hot or cold) from the vents from time to time. The problem continued to get worse until the blower motor stopped all together. No A/C nor Heat from floor, face, nor defrost vents. A friend checked the voltage to the blower motor behind the passenger glove compartment and it was at 12 volts from the low to medium fan settings. So he said to replace the blower motor (which I did) but still it does not work at all! I decided to replace the relay(behind glove compartment) any way after checking all of the fuses with a guy from the parts store I bought the motor from and guess what? Still no fan. If I turn on the A/C going down the highway I can feel the cold air begin to fill the cabin slowly and the A/C light is on. Can anybody give me advice to get my motor running before I carry my truck to the repair shop!
Finally someone understands what I'm saying, Now if we could just get an answer......It was said maybe I wasn't informative enough in my question. hmmmmm
I have a 95 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.1L V6. A couple of days ago, I turned off the vehicle and the HVAC fan stayed on, and stayed on high. I turned the vehicle on again and it stayed on. When I tried to use the controls to lower its fan setting and then turn it off, it continued to run on high. Normally, I can either adjust the fan setting from the steering wheel or the dash board controls. When I use these, it shows on the dash board display that the fan setting is changing, but the fan continues to run on high. I had to pull fuse # 14 to get the fan to shut off. Apparently, there is a short somewhere that continues to supply power to the fan. Anyone have any thoughts on where I should look for this?
If your car has an automatic temperature control, it's likely a blower control module, a small circuit board that is next to the blower motor. There will be cables coming from it to the blower for power to help you find it The circuit board is in the airstream inside the blower box.
If a manual setup it's a relay. There is a relay that supplies power to the blower directly to get maximum amperage. It's likely stuck on. There will be another relay that supplies power to the switch inside the car that connects to the various resistors in the resistor group to give lower speeds. I have no idea where the relays would be on your particular car. You might look for them under the hood and try tapping on them with a screwdriver handle. It might make the stuck relay let go where the corrosion has glued the two contacts together.
I've done a bit more research and found out that the heater valve is controlled by a vacuum servo. When my car is running and I turn the key into the off position it taken a second before the engine shuts down. That in itself seems to tell me that there is a vacuum leak. There are no other visible signs of a vacuum leak. My question is this...What can I do to help find where the vacuum leak is? thanks
Sometimes such leaks are tough to find. It could be in the servo unit and this can be tested by a little "vacuum gun" that mechanics use...they just squeeze the trigger while connecting the tool to the vacuum inlet of whatever they are testing.
Otherwise it's a matter of testing each line you can find...a little spit or any harmless liquid that gets sucked into a vacuum joint is a tip-off.
I have the same problem. 2500hd 2004 6.0 fan clutch. just picked it up from the dealer after the 3rd try. I thought the valet had put the heater on. I park all day at work in fla. facing the sun (This heats the condensor. )if I idle, hot humid air, if I drive off(air flow over condensor) a/c kicks in. Ive always thought it was the high pressure switch due to hot condensor. They must be aware of the problem but what the hell are they going to do about it? They say mine checks out fine. Sooner or later there will have to be a technical service bulletin.
I recently had the evaporator, compressor, and clutch replaced on my 1995 Accord V6. Since it was replaced, the unit will not cool the car to a comfortable temperature on even moderately hot days (I run the unit on the recycle setting and maximum cooling for as much as an hour and am only moderately comfortable). Before the old unit failed, it cooled the car just fine. I measured the air at the center vent with a probe thermometer and got 52 degree air in about 10 minutes, but that's as low as it goes. By comparison, my 2005 CRV puts out 40 degree air in the same length of time (and cools the vehicle just fine).
Does anyone know if there is a factory spec as to what the air temp. should be on the Accord?
Any ideas as to the problem? This is virtually a new system at this point (after $2100 - Don't ask why I spent that much on an 11 year old car) --- seems like it ought to do better.
Something is not right. The output should be around 40 degrees measured right at the vent, as long as the compressor is running. Sounds like it needs to go back to the shop.
I have a 95 Mazda 626 and recently I noticed that air is coming thru the vents. Nothing is on vents are closed yet air gets thru. Any ideas on how to correct this?
95 Maz 626 Man/Trans Could this high idle be related to a bad clutch switch? Not the one that starts the car. But the other one that looks like a sensor. Seems that as long as I have my clutch in (holding it high) as if I'm about to take off. The idle goes down, or I should say I am able to control the idle rpm's But if I sat in neutral I'd be at close to 3000rpm. I've replaced the IAC and TPS (not new) yet no change in idle problem. What else is there?
Probably what's happening is maybe you aren't posting in the best possible place? This is a topic on climate control, so...
May I make a suggestion. Scan this list, select Mazda, select 626, and then post in one of the general 626 topics that you see. More will be added to this list.
If you ever have trouble navigating or getting answers, e-mail one of the hosts and ask for help. Also the "help" bottom on the bottom of this page is helpful!
Sometimes it takes a few days to get a reply and sometimes if you don't hear anything it's a good idea to repost in another topic that might be more suitable.
If you tell us your question (post it here or e-mail me) I'll let you know how best to get an answer here.
You can also post in the Forums Discussion Finder where various hosts can direct you to the perfect place to post your question.
This is copy of email I sent to Steve @ Edmunds.com and he suggested posting in this area of the forums. So here I am and any help would be appreciated.
I'm kind of new to this forum stuff but I really desperately need some help. I originally posted some of my problems in post#1356, 1363 under the RX330. Now I am back to square one. Just a week ago I traded in a blue RX350 for a bamboo RX350 with full entertainment system. Something I have wanted for a long time and I sunk every dime I had into this car. Now I find that some of the same things are happening that have happened to my previous RX330's. (My previous blue RX350 ran perfectly). I would take it back but I think they sold it. This is what is happening. During the day, (I live in L.A.) warm climate the car runs perfectly. No problems. As soon as the weather changes, i.e.: I park the car and go to a restaurant for dinner. The temperature when I come out is about 65. The car runs smoothly but now a louder than normal groan/humming sound is coming from where I don't know.
Until I tried switching off the a/c. The noise stopped. I took it to dealer. I asked if it was a serious engine problem or perhaps the a/c condenser? They didn't know because it was warm and they could not duplicate the noise, but would check with a fact rep soon. I am really worried this time. If it's the condenser, hell I'll pay for it. But why does this happen when outside temp changes? Next week we are supposed to have cooler weather and I expect this problem will continue all the time then. It's very embarrassing to listen to this noise when passengers in the car ask what is wrong. I really love the car but cant see living it with this problem forever. I just don't understand I guess. I mean when I switch the a/c off it stops. So I guess it may be the compressor/condensor. I don't know. Yet while listening very carefully I think, I mean I think it is coming from the right side of the engine. This is just a guess is all. One other strange thing. When I sit in the driver's seat of course I hear the noise. If I put my head down like trying to get underneath the instrument panel I cannot hear the noise! So maybe it has something to do with other components near the top of the engine. I just don't know. I hope I am emailing you in order and I am sorry for taking any of your valuable time, but I am really at the end of my rope now. Considering I am 73 and somewhat sick I thought this car would last me until I die, but I don't know. I just don't know. Ron (rpac)
My 96 GMC SUBURBAN AC will not work in the front of the vehicle. It will not work with AC on or off. The back AC for the passengers will work just fine. Any help will greatly be appreciated.
Please help me! I have a 2006 Saturn ion and I have been to the dealership three times already and I swear it is not all in my head. When I turn on my heater on the low setting there is a squeaking, chirping noise. When I turn the heater up, let it blow a few minutes, then turn the heater back to the low setting, the squeaking will stop. Also if I have the heater on low it will squeak until I come to a complete stop or until I turn the heat off. But it doesn't make this sound each time I turn on the heater on the low setting (hence the three times at the dealership). Thanks
I have set aside this Saturday to replace the heater core on my 1996 Buick LeSabre. Any shortcuts on this (it's buried under the dash) will be appreciated. Is there any way to work around pulling the dash completely out? The Haynes manual isn't very helpful, as usual.
This shows the heater location. There are a couple of screws on the heater core. The tubes extend into the engine compartment. People have said a pair of pliers meant to squeeze the wire clamps make it lot easier on some models.
The glovebox should be taken off after the hush panel under the dash.
if you have dual auto control air conditioner there is a programmer box, like a paperback dictionary in size. It has two screws holding it diagonally onto the corner of the heater box you see in the pictures. There is a large electrical connector, a link to left that snaps into a white plastic clip that moves a vane inside the heater, and a small pair of wires on top that have a connector on top of the programmer box that go to a motor that moves a vane inside the heater box. The vacuum lines to the programmer can be left connected.
Manual AC version will look slightly different. The cover to heater box is held by two screws; back has prongs that hold it in place along with sealer caulk along the box.
I'd start with getting the tubes off under the hood to be sure it's doable, then I'd start on the box.
This is terrific - can I assume that removal of the entire dash is not necessary, and that this heater box can be accessed by removing the glove box? It looks like that is the case, and that makes this job a lot easier.
I do have the automatic climate control, and all those vacuum lines/controllers that go with it.
Take off the sound deadener under the right dash-4-5 little screws or taps. Then take off the 5 or so screws that hold the bottom hinge for the glovebox to the dash and the whole glovebox comes down or there will be some variation on that. Once the glovebox is out of the way just sit and look at everything for a while. You'll see the pieces.
This shows the vacuum tubes at the connection to the programmer box that controls the air conditioning for dual systems. This will be connected into the corner of a plastic box that has the electric connections I mentioned above. I'd try not to disconnect this plastic connector. It's where many people have had problems with collapsing nipples of thin black rubber inside them block the dash vents used for AC from getting vacuum. The connector can be bypassed to get the tubes open for vacuum again. That's another story. Because it's somewhat fragile or touchy-I'd try to just suspend the programmer up out of the way with a string.
Re: the the plastic vacuum connector. My vents do not direct air where they should - is this connector the culprit? Should I replace it, or is there another fix?
You are a font of valuable information, by the way.
If you can take the purple hose from the programmer box (the plastic connector) off of the black hose where it goes up toward the motor (it pulls apart) and get vacuum at the black hose when the motor's running, it's likely the problem. If some of the vacuum motors work, you know you have vacuum to the programmer.
Some of the vents will work and move, e.g., the heat may close off for floor only and defrost/floor works. When you put it on AC dash vents there's a vacuum motor that doesn't get vacuum and instead air conditioning air comes out the defrost. Put your hand up there to verify. You may get some air at the floor also. This is the usual problem. Those vacuum motors are above the driver's foot. I think there are 4 motors with 5 connections (two on the one for vents and bilevel).
Run motor and turn off and then leave key on and push buttons while vacuum lasts and you'll hear some vents moving as changes occur. I actually took the tubes off at the vacuum motors and tested for vacuum on the right settings on the AC control where you select AC, heat, etc., and matched up with the service manual I have. For some reason the AC one is the one that goes wrong first and the plastic black nipples inside the connector suck shut.
The fix is just to take the programmer box out, unsnap the lid (might not have to take the box off actually), and write down which color tube inside goes to which color tube outside the magic connector on the corner. The colors aren't the same.
Then cut the tubes off right at the connector. Use 1/8 inch gas line (internal diameter) from NAPA, cut 1.5 inch pieces and lube each small vacuum line with water, slide vacuum lines into both ends of rubber. Close box. Enjoy all vents working again. Other people have used other size vacuum lines to reconnect the inside and outside lines. The heavy rubber gas tube keeps things from rattling
Thanks for your help - it saved us hours. The removal of the old core was complicated by its location on the firewall. Not wishing to remove the AC receiver/drier, etc to get at it, I broke off the plastic tubes to remove the hoses. There was no way to get tools in there (plus my hands). We did the bypass on the vacuum hoses, but still have no panel vents. I suspect I may have a bad brain box, or vacuum actuator for the panels vents. I have a brain box lined up. As miserable as this job is, it was easier on the Buick than any other car I have worked on.
It sounds like the particular motor for the defrost close is bad. I forgot that I took a hose off another vacuum motor and put it on the one for the vents and made sure that they worked when they got vacuum.
got a 98 ford taurus wagon and i just flushed the cooling system, and replaced the thermostat. my ac works fine however my heat is still minimal, ie it is cool.there is plenty of air flow on all speeds. what do i need to do to figure out if it is the heater core or if is something to do with the heater ducts ...? thanks
If it's an automatic fan speed control meaning a digital readout automatic air conditioning system, it's probably your blower motor control. It's where the wires coming out of the blower motor (under the hood?) go to on the heater box near the blower. The blower motor relay is electronic and sticks into the air steam inside the heater to cool itself in the air blowing past.
These are available at junkyards, at Advance Auto, and your dealer, in order of increasing price.
Since it's stuck on and your fan is running, we know the blower motor is okay. The other way they fail is errratic operation and no operation. Many fail being stuck on with blower running after it shouldn't.
You may have to move a Relay Center that has relays and main fuses in it that's above the blower and box area. That relay center has a couple of bolts that hold it they say.
Be sure to disconnect negative ground cable at battery before working on any of this.
I have a 2001 olds silhouette and it blows cold air unless you are accelerating like on the highway. Then it blows hot air. No visible leaks no foul smell like when my heater core went bad on another car that I had. Any insight you could provide would be great.
Some vehicles have a switch that kills the AC when you floor the car. This is to give more power under hard acceleration & is similar to the way it kills the AC when you start the car.
We're not having an AC issue. AC is off. Its the heat that we have cranked up and all that comes out is cold air. As soon as we press the gas peddle thats when we finally get hot air. If we sit there idling at a red light we start getting cold air again
You have checked the level in the radiator. Sometimes they don't refill from the reserve tank properly and air gets in there and into the heater which will stop heating ability.
Locate the two hoses going to the heater core inside the car. After the motor is well warmed up rum the blower on high speed to move air over the heater core and take heat from it. Then feel the two hoses in the engine compartment as near as possible to the heater to see if they are both close to the same temperature. If the water flow through the heater core is unobstructed there will be enough hot water flowing through fast enough that the water coming out isn't cooled down substantially. That means the whole heater core is staying hot and giving lots of heat. If the hose coming out is cool that means only part of the core is hot and the rest gets cooler and cooler as the water in the core cools down before it flows out.
You can try varying the blower speed and try having someone race the motor mildly to see if the increased pump pressure moves water through faster; since it does when you rev the engine to accelerate I believe you'll feel the increased warmth.
I suspect you have a stopped up heater core. It is also possible there is an off valve in the heater line that might not be opening; a few cars use those to turn off flow to the heater to aid air conditioning cooling without the hot heater core affecting the cooling. But GM doesn't use many of those. I have not had one in my cars.
If the coolant wasn't changed every two years or 25-30,000 miles, it may have formed some gunk. If you look at the reservoir tank it may show lots of brown sediment. The orange Dexcool doesn't work well if there is air in the radiator rather than having been filled properly and checkec properly. So don't let people tell you Dexcool is at fault. Rather regular maintenance needs to be done on cooling system.
There may be shops that can run a cleaner through the heater core only that may dissolve the clogging material, if that's the problem. the tubes in the heater are so fine they stop up easily and are hard to clean.
Your trouble will be that many shops love the flush idea for radiators and transmissions and make lots of money from them. You need an honest opinion from an established good mechanic, not a franchise shop with employees right off the street. That's my opinion.
Comments
MrShiftright
Host
In May of '05' I had the original freon (re charged)replaced. The AC worked fine all through last summer.
This year, however, the AC has been far less effective and does not deliver cool air the way it used to.
Does anyone have any first hand experience to share about this model's AC performance, specifically, regarding
susceptibility to (freon)leaks in AC lines, compressor problems, etc? I appreciate your comments.
Today for the first time, I noticed a knocking sound (about 2 seconds apart) coming from behind the dash when I started the truck. If I turned "max" off, it stopped. When I turned "max" back on, it started again. I don't know if this has anything to do with the first problem or not.
Any help, tips, or insight into this problem is much appreciated!
What should our next step be?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Idle drops to nearly stalling when the a/c is turned on. Car will shake then return to somewhat normal after its turned off. Personally I feel the idle is too low, but even after adjustments it reverts back to what it wants. Thus stalling when a/c is on. Any ideas???? Thanks
If a manual setup it's a relay. There is a relay that supplies power to the blower directly to get maximum amperage. It's likely stuck on. There will be another relay that supplies power to the switch inside the car that connects to the various resistors in the resistor group to give lower speeds. I have no idea where the relays would be on your particular car. You might look for them under the hood and try tapping on them with a screwdriver handle. It might make the stuck relay let go where the corrosion has glued the two contacts together.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.autoacforum.com
My question is this...What can I do to help find where the vacuum leak is?
thanks
Otherwise it's a matter of testing each line you can find...a little spit or any harmless liquid that gets sucked into a vacuum joint is a tip-off.
Does anyone know if there is a factory spec as to what the air temp. should be on the Accord?
Any ideas as to the problem? This is virtually a new system at this point (after $2100 - Don't ask why I spent that much on an 11 year old car) --- seems like it ought to do better.
Thanks
Probably what's happening is maybe you aren't posting in the best possible place? This is a topic on climate control, so...
May I make a suggestion. Scan this list, select Mazda, select 626, and then post in one of the general 626 topics that you see. More will be added to this list.
Topics By Make of Car List
If you ever have trouble navigating or getting answers, e-mail one of the hosts and ask for help. Also the "help" bottom on the bottom of this page is helpful!
Sometimes it takes a few days to get a reply and sometimes if you don't hear anything it's a good idea to repost in another topic that might be more suitable.
If you tell us your question (post it here or e-mail me) I'll let you know how best to get an answer here.
You can also post in the Forums Discussion Finder where various hosts can direct you to the perfect place to post your question.
best
MrShiftright
Host
I'm kind of new to this forum stuff but I really desperately need some help. I originally posted some of my problems in post#1356, 1363 under the RX330. Now I am back to square one.
Just a week ago I traded in a blue RX350 for a bamboo RX350 with full entertainment system. Something I have wanted for a long time and I sunk every dime I had into this car. Now I find that some of the same things are happening that have happened to my previous RX330's. (My previous blue RX350 ran perfectly). I would take it back but I think they sold it.
This is what is happening. During the day, (I live in L.A.) warm climate the car runs perfectly. No problems. As soon as the weather changes, i.e.: I park the car and go to a restaurant for dinner. The temperature when I come out is about 65. The car runs smoothly but now a louder than normal groan/humming sound is coming from where I don't know.
Until I tried switching off the a/c. The noise stopped. I took it to dealer. I asked if it was a serious engine problem or perhaps the a/c condenser? They didn't know because it was warm and they could not duplicate the noise, but would check with a fact rep soon. I am really worried this time. If it's the condenser, hell I'll pay for it. But why does this happen when outside temp changes? Next week we are supposed to have cooler weather and I expect this problem will continue all the time then. It's very embarrassing to listen to this noise when passengers in the car ask what is wrong. I really love the car but cant see living it with this problem forever.
I just don't understand I guess. I mean when I switch the a/c off it stops. So I guess it may be the compressor/condensor. I don't know. Yet while listening very carefully I think, I mean I think it is coming from the right side of the engine. This is just a guess is all.
One other strange thing. When I sit in the driver's seat of course I hear the noise. If I put my head down like trying to get underneath the instrument panel I cannot hear the noise! So maybe it has something to do with other components near the top of the engine. I just don't know.
I hope I am emailing you in order and I am sorry for taking any of your valuable time, but I am really at the end of my rope now. Considering I am 73 and somewhat sick I thought this car would last me until I die, but I don't know. I just don't know.
Ron (rpac)
or you could have a cooling fan that has a bad bearing.
It really doesn't sound too bad to me--
This shows the heater location. There are a couple of screws on the heater core. The tubes extend into the engine compartment. People have said a pair of pliers meant to squeeze the wire clamps make it lot easier on some models.
The glovebox should be taken off after the hush panel under the dash.
if you have dual auto control air conditioner there is a programmer box, like a paperback dictionary in size. It has two screws holding it diagonally onto the corner of the heater box you see in the pictures. There is a large electrical connector, a link to left that snaps into a white plastic clip that moves a vane inside the heater, and a small pair of wires on top that have a connector on top of the programmer box that go to a motor that moves a vane inside the heater box. The vacuum lines to the programmer can be left connected.
Manual AC version will look slightly different. The cover to heater box is held by two screws; back has prongs that hold it in place along with sealer caulk along the box.
I'd start with getting the tubes off under the hood to be sure it's doable, then I'd start on the box.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I do have the automatic climate control, and all those vacuum lines/controllers that go with it.
Can't thank you enough for this!
This shows the vacuum tubes at the connection to the programmer box that controls the air conditioning for dual systems. This will be connected into the corner of a plastic box that has the electric connections I mentioned above. I'd try not to disconnect this plastic connector. It's where many people have had problems with collapsing nipples of thin black rubber inside them block the dash vents used for AC from getting vacuum. The connector can be bypassed to get the tubes open for vacuum again. That's another story. Because it's somewhat fragile or touchy-I'd try to just suspend the programmer up out of the way with a string.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You are a font of valuable information, by the way.
Some of the vents will work and move, e.g., the heat may close off for floor only and defrost/floor works. When you put it on AC dash vents there's a vacuum motor that doesn't get vacuum and instead air conditioning air comes out the defrost. Put your hand up there to verify. You may get some air at the floor also. This is the usual problem. Those vacuum motors are above the driver's foot. I think there are 4 motors with 5 connections (two on the one for vents and bilevel).
Run motor and turn off and then leave key on and push buttons while vacuum lasts and you'll hear some vents moving as changes occur. I actually took the tubes off at the vacuum motors and tested for vacuum on the right settings on the AC control where you select AC, heat, etc., and matched up with the service manual I have. For some reason the AC one is the one that goes wrong first and the plastic black nipples inside the connector suck shut.
The fix is just to take the programmer box out, unsnap the lid (might not have to take the box off actually), and write down which color tube inside goes to which color tube outside the magic connector on the corner. The colors aren't the same.
Then cut the tubes off right at the connector. Use 1/8 inch gas line (internal diameter) from NAPA, cut 1.5 inch pieces and lube each small vacuum line with water, slide vacuum lines into both ends of rubber. Close box. Enjoy all vents working again. Other people have used other size vacuum lines to reconnect the inside and outside lines. The heavy rubber gas tube keeps things from rattling
I have a link if you want it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks in advance for help.
Harold
If it's an automatic fan speed control meaning a digital readout automatic air conditioning system, it's probably your blower motor control. It's where the wires coming out of the blower motor (under the hood?) go to on the heater box near the blower. The blower motor relay is electronic and sticks into the air steam inside the heater to cool itself in the air blowing past.
These are available at junkyards, at Advance Auto, and your dealer, in order of increasing price.
Since it's stuck on and your fan is running, we know the blower motor is okay. The other way they fail is errratic operation and no operation. Many fail being stuck on with blower running after it shouldn't.
You may have to move a Relay Center that has relays and main fuses in it that's above the blower and box area. That relay center has a couple of bolts that hold it they say.
Be sure to disconnect negative ground cable at battery before working on any of this.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks again
Harold
I have the exact same problem! Any luck on your end. I read elsewhere to check the coolant level. I'll try that tomorrow and let you know.
No luck! I tried topping off my reserve tank since it was low and still having the same problem. I even tried adding the DEX to the rad directly.
Any luck on your end?
Thanks for the post.
I'm sorry but could you give me some more info?
We're not having an AC issue. AC is off. Its the heat that we have cranked up and all that comes out is cold air. As soon as we press the gas peddle thats when we finally get hot air. If we sit there idling at a red light we start getting cold air again
Locate the two hoses going to the heater core inside the car. After the motor is well warmed up rum the blower on high speed to move air over the heater core and take heat from it. Then feel the two hoses in the engine compartment as near as possible to the heater to see if they are both close to the same temperature. If the water flow through the heater core is unobstructed there will be enough hot water flowing through fast enough that the water coming out isn't cooled down substantially. That means the whole heater core is staying hot and giving lots of heat. If the hose coming out is cool that means only part of the core is hot and the rest gets cooler and cooler as the water in the core cools down before it flows out.
You can try varying the blower speed and try having someone race the motor mildly to see if the increased pump pressure moves water through faster; since it does when you rev the engine to accelerate I believe you'll feel the increased warmth.
I suspect you have a stopped up heater core. It is also possible there is an off valve in the heater line that might not be opening; a few cars use those to turn off flow to the heater to aid air conditioning cooling without the hot heater core affecting the cooling. But GM doesn't use many of those. I have not had one in my cars.
If the coolant wasn't changed every two years or 25-30,000 miles, it may have formed some gunk. If you look at the reservoir tank it may show lots of brown sediment. The orange Dexcool doesn't work well if there is air in the radiator rather than having been filled properly and checkec properly. So don't let people tell you Dexcool is at fault. Rather regular maintenance needs to be done on cooling system.
There may be shops that can run a cleaner through the heater core only that may dissolve the clogging material, if that's the problem. the tubes in the heater are so fine they stop up easily and are hard to clean.
Your trouble will be that many shops love the flush idea for radiators and transmissions and make lots of money from them. You need an honest opinion from an established good mechanic, not a franchise shop with employees right off the street. That's my opinion.
Good luck with the diagnosis.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,