Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

oldstrouble

Hi Imidazol97,

First of all I wanted to thank you for taking the time to write all that and trying to help us out! Greatly appreciated!

Everything you say makes sense. I hope its not a plugged heater core

How do I find the heater core to test the hoses going in and coming out to see if the temp is the same or different?

If the heater core is plugged whats the best thing to do to fix it? How will I know if a mechanic is looking out for me or just trying to make some $$$?

Thanks again for your advice.

imidazol97

I've not worked on vans but you're looking for two rubber hoses that go to the firewall so that they go inside to the heater. There will be two tubes for the Air conditioning freon and they may have a rubber insulator layer of foam around them. But you are looking for two rubber hoses about 1.25 to 1.5 inches in diameter.

One will run from the motor near the water pump which has a serpentine belt running around it to the firewall. The other will be a return line taking the water back to a hose connection or to the motor itself somewhere.

Your car may have valve that shuts off water flow for summer cooling, usually when the AC is set to maximum setting.

You need the help of a shop that will diagnose for you if you're not sure about those hoses. How to fix the heater core is a call I'm not sure since I'm not there to try it myself.

pickuppig

I joined today, 01-31-07, saw your problem was last August,
but I had a similar situation. There is a wiring harness under the glove box( close to the kick panel, hanging low) that comes from the blower and goes back into the dash or over the kick panel. It is very near to the cabin air filter intake, I believe that this wire harness gets a lot of moisture (car wash, rain, freshner, etc.) and the contacts become corroded. I pushed and pulled and wiggled the wires and found this by accident. Repacing wires and /or harness did the trick. I tested this on other trucks that owners were having problems and it was the same problem.

pickuppig

Heater was working. Intake gaskets and grommet were leaking and replaced. Afterwards could not get heat, both heater core hoses(in & out)stay cold. Replaced thermostat, water pump and checked if gaskets were put in wrong, heater core is OK. Soon it will be warm in Houston, but still need to fix.

smokey75

Oh sorry, misunderstood. I thought you had your AC on & it got hot when you accelerated.

pishta

Top off water in radiator, cap it and then I start the truck, no problem. I take off and it sounds like a waterfall under the glove compartment! Doesnt really matter if heater is on or off, mostly happens on a cold motor. Im thinking defective heater control valve and the revving motor is forcing water past a bad valve in the control valve? It is really strange. Also water seems to dissapeare in this truck, no leaks, no heavy vapor out the tailpipe, no siphon action out of the overflow tank either, but I put in 36 oz in about every week. Hope its not a head gasket...

burdawg

You should have the cooling system pressure checked. The coolant is going somewhere.

lynzlu

I've had a similar problem. I noticed about a year ago that my heater was blowing cold air. We figured it was the thermostat so had it replaced. Didn't help. After looking and looking, we saw that the antifreeze (Dexcool) reserve was empty and low in the radiator. After filling both, we started getting hot air again. No problems for about a month or so after that, then the same thing. Heater blowing cold, checked the antifreeze and it was low, filled it and got hot air. NO VISIBLE LEAKS ANYWHERE. Mechanic looked it over, couldn't find a leak. We couldn't figure out where the antifreeze was going, was having to fill it about every month or two (less in the summer it seemed). Then it started leaking antifreeze BIG time about a month ago (we were putting in a gallon of Dexcool every other day or so just to keep the heat working)and this time we could see it leaking. Took it in and they found that we have a crack in the intake gasket (the mechanic's opinion was that the Dexcool antifreeze caused it).
I recently recevied a notice in the mail of a class action lawsuit against GM claiming that GM ran Dexcool antifreeze in certain vehicles (including mine) where it was incompatible with the engine compartment and caused problems with radiators and gaskets. Who'd have thought? Gonna do some more checking to see if I can get GM to pay for my repair (since it's going to cost me about $600 to get the gasket replaced). Put stop-leak in it for now, seems to be holding okay.

skateboards

I have a '99 Honda Prelude and the climate control switch is broken. It got hard to move a while ago and my friend tried to switch it to heat and we just heard a snapping sound. Now it only blows cold air, the switch will still move from hot to cold, but it won't effect the temperature, it always blows cold air. I'm pretty sure it's not any hoses, because it stopped working as soon as he broke the switch. Does anyone know how to fix this? I am willing to try anything, as it is freezing where I live. Thanks for any help.

lalaland

lynzlu, I would LOVE to see something on that. We actually had to take out a small personal loan last year to pay for our gasket repair job.

adam07

I have 1998 Mercurry Villager and now it is winter
it takes a longtime to warm up. No warm air comes out of the vents until I start driving for a prolonged period. As soon as I stop, vents start blowing cold air. Same issue with the rear heater. Also the car has Water Coolant smell once van is driven with the heater on for a longtime.
Otherwise the car is normal and does not over heat.

Took it to a mechanic. The car was very low on
Coolant water and he found a Coolant Leak from the rubbber Radiator Hose. He said this is a big job and it cost a lot, since to replace the upper radiatr hose, will require removing lots of stuff and replacing the manifold gasket.

Does this make sense? Do I need to do all this
to replace the rubber hose?

Your opinion please.

Thank You

Adam

burdawg

Get another opinion. I can't think of any reason you would have to replace a manifold gasket because of a leaky upper radiator hose, unless a leaking intake manifold is the real problem. Was a pressure check done to determine the cause of the leak?

adam07

Yes. A pressure check was done. It pinted out to the leaky
upper radiatr hose. I was told the intake manifold needs to
be removed to get acces to the other side of the ruber hose.
So it looks like one side is connected to upper radiator and second side is below the manifold?

Thanks

adam07

I took it to another Mechanic and he did
the pressure test and did not found any leak. I pointed
out the small leak that comes from the upper radiator hose on the driver side and he said this not the cause.
I need to change the heater core.
Now I am rally confused.

Your opinion please.

ouwxman4

I have a similar problem as message #554. I have a 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight... Automatic Climate control. I only get air out the defrost and floor (together). No matter what I choose. There is vacuum to the programmer module. The question is, is something wrong w/ the programmer module, or is it the vacuum motors controlling the flaps to the ductwork. How many of these motors are there? Does anyone know which colored vacuum tube corresponds to which motor? I have not completely torn the dash apart yet (was hoping to avoid that).

Ideas?

imidazol97

Read post #555.

If you get switching between vent modes when you push buttons on the electronic control then you probably have adequate vacuum levels to the programmer box. You may ahve to turn off the engine to hear the switching in the box; you shoud have vacuum for 20 seconds or more after shutting off the engine until the reserve vacuum is used up.

I took hoses off one vacuum motor and put the hose on the vacuum motor that switches the vane to close off the defroster which makes the air come outthe dash vents and it worked, so I knew the problem wasn't the dash vent motor.

If you send me an email address to my address in my profile I'll send you some more info about the vacuum connector bypass in the programmer box. Click on my name at the header line for this post. Taking the programmer box out is relatively easy. Just look at things a lot before pulling on something.

ouwxman4

OK, so I checked the vacuum motors. I took each hose off each motor and none of them had vacuum. Since none had vacuum I didn't have one to try on the panel vents. When I take the purple hose off the source (black) it has vacuum, at least i can hear the hissing noise and suction on my finger. Perhaps the vacuum is not strong enough? I don't have a vacuum gauge, but I can get one.

I will email you and get the information on the bypass. Obviously something is getting messed up in the programmer box. That connection as you stated, could be it.

ouwxman4

I forgot to mention, when I push buttons on the climate control, I can hear the programmer box click.

ouwxman4

Turns out the vacuum connector on the programmer box was the culprit. I, however, did not have to cut it off. I removed the connector from the programmer box and disconnected it from the hoses to the motors. I took a straight pin and cleaned it out. I did this a lot and then took a can of compressed air and sprayed it through each hose and ensured each hose was clean. I put it all back together and now I have my vents!!!!

Next problem... now when I turn the car on the temperature flashes at me. Guess it didn't like that! Also the passenger side runs cooler than the driver side. At least I have my vents.

Anyone know how to read the diagnostic codes off the climate control? Anyone know why the passenger side runs too cold now?

ouwxman4

Thanks to imidazol97.... when you re-attach the programmer box, make sure you re-attach the levers on the temperature blend doors with the thermostat at 90º. Otherwise, it gets mad at you. This did fix my problem with the blinking thermostat.

auggievan

My 96 Grand Voyager has had a problem for two years. If I set the temp up high in the AM to assist the defrost then no matter which setting the slider is set to for many hours (sometimes days) the heater puts out hot air. On one time I noticed the reverse, set for cool in AM and after skiing I wanted hot air, and nothing but cold. Recommendations?

imidazol97

>Thanks to imidazol97....

Thanks for responding. It's good to know I'm good for something on Edmunds besides aggravating the hosts!

I sitting here stunned that you were able to get the 6-way plastic connector apart and back together without leaks. My service manager had warned me that they don't come apart without sticking and ripping so that they don't go back together and seal up. Someone else had used silicon caulk/glue to seal theirs. I thought the bypass surgery looked the easier and best.

I'm glad it worked for you. And I'm glad you figured out about reconnecting the two links for passenger side control and total control of temps!

djansen

I have 99 intrepid that does not switch airflow between the vents and floor or defroster. I thought it was a bad switch panel and bought a new one, not the problem. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it and start the car it cycles through what seems to be a self diagnostic, switching the airflow from vents, floor, and then back to the defroster. The A/C will run if you hold in the A/C button but the LED indicator above the switch does not come on. I've checked all the fuses (visually and with a tester)

Any ideas

mfinefrock

114,000 miles, AC worked intermittently, then not at all. Low side pressure read 100 psi!. radiator clean. What could be the problem? Thanks in advance.

skylordd

My Daughters Beetle when the A/C is turned on causes the car to shake. Not a small vibration , but causes the car to shake. Anyone have any ideas before I haul it off to the dealer $$$$$$$$. Had it to one shop and thy couldnt do anything with it. said to take it to the $$$$$$$$$$$$

kiawah

Well it's air conditioner parts so it's $$$$$$$ no matter where you take it.

tennbob

Thanks for this trouble shooting info. My 96 LSS had the same problem. Last night I finally got the vacuum connector off of the programmer box and stuck a long pin into the small holes in the programmer openings and put it back to gether and wow it works great! Many thanks!
TennBob

ryanfiala81

(Also posted in Saturn Maintenance forum - I hadn't found this one yet)

I recently bought an A/C recharge kit for my 2000 Saturn SL2. It blows warm air and I thought it might need a recharge, since the RPMs increase and the system appears to engage properly when the A/C is turned on. The kit came with a pressure gauge, which told me that my system is holding at between 65-70 psi (25-45 is normal, according to the kit). Any ideas what could be causing this? Could something be clogged? Is the car dangerous to be driving with this high pressure accumulated in my A/C system?

Thanks!

joe131

Anyone know where it is located and how hard it is to replace?

mlblum2

Hi, When I have my Air on it blows out of the defrosters. Not all the time though when I let off the gas it will go out the front vents. Is there anyway to fix this? 2001 lincoln continental

maich75

The climate control in my 1995 Accord 2.2i VTEC SiR is playing up. By this I mean that nothing at all lights up on the temperature display or the buttons when the key is turned to ACC or Engine running. Sometimes it burst into life for 10-20 mins and everything works perfectly - every button does its job just right, and the temperature changes as selected. I have checked all the fuses and all are OK and seated correctly. The car is running normally and has not been worked on recently. I have no mods of any kind - its the standard package as made by Honda. I disconnected the two plugs that go into the controller and noticed that with the black plug connected, the fan was blowing constantly at high speed. When grey plug is connected, the system shut off totally. What could be the problem. I hope someone in this forum has knows the solution. All help greatly appreciated.

ejohns47

Hi,

we just tried our a/c for the first time this year and nothing. All I know is that the compressor clutch is not engaging. Are there some general troubleshooting tips that I could do myself before taking it to the shop? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Eric

Mr_Shiftright

If you are low on refrigerant, the AC Clutch will not engage. On most cars there is a by-pass switch that makes this disengagement happen. If you can find the switch (relay) and jump it with a jump wire, and the clutch engages, then you know you have a low refrigerant problem.

ejohns47

Thanks for the tip! Would this relay switch most likely be just under the hood, or would I have to crawl under to find it?

Mr_Shiftright

It would most likely be under the hood yes.

swiftshot

Here's some info, that may or may not be helpful.
I replaced my resistor module last week and am now experiencing the same problem you have with the AC running all the time. The AC button light is NOT on and the button has no control over the AC. Since I did not replace my control panel, perhaps yours is ok. Mabe some other problem related to replacing the resistor module like knocking loose some other wiring under the dash. I will check with my local chevy dealer early next week. They are ususally pretty helpful with DoItYourSelfers.

bonniesboytoy

Newbee to site, My Lincoln 02 LS. Passenger A/C goes Hot, drivers raises a few degrees. Same happens with defroster in winter. Dealer can't find because they leave it running and by the time the tech checks it, the A/C is back to normal again. It really blast out the Hot air on her side. Any Help or ideas?? Thanks .. Tom...

swiftshot

I was fixing another new problem with my 2000 chevy truck(cruise control)then went back to solving my AC problem, but it started working correctly and hasn't failed since (3 days now). I checked with my local chevy dealer anyway and they only suggested replacing the control panel. There were no service bulletins that they could find but they did indicate that if I had a rear defogger (I don't) that it could somehow be kicking on the AC. Good luck, hope you fix yours and hope mine doesn't return!

96accordex

I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX (I4). When I start it semi-cold after running it warm with the A/C on, I hear a scraping/shuddering noise under the hood. it usually lasts, on-and-off, about 30 seconds-or-so. could this simply a product of trapped water from the condenser? It does not affect engine idle or anything. any help would be awesome.

joeblow60

My manual shows it's located in the heater unit, and can be pried out after removing the heater blower motor. The blower motor is under the dash on the passenger side.

Doesn't look to hard. I had this replaced on my 98 Contour in a Ford recall of Oct 1999. Think it may have been replaced since then too, but can't remember.

Steps:

1) Disconnect negative battery cable.

2) Disable the airbag system. (Before proceeding, wait a minimum of 15 minutes to allow the airbag capacitor to discharge as a precaution against accidental firing.)

3) Release 4 clips (by pulling them out) securing the passenger side footwell upper trim panel.

4) Disconnect the motor's electrical connector.

5) Lift the motor's retaining lug slightly, twist the motor counterclockwise about 30 degrees, then remove the assembly.

6) Remove the motor control resistor by sliding a slim screwdriver into the slot provided in one end. Press the screwdriver in approx. 1/4" against spring pressure, and pry the resistor out.

Disclaimer: I make no warranties or guarantees for use of this advice or procedure. You accept all liability. Use at your own risk, or have a qualified mechanic perform the work if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

Thanks,

Joe

joe131

thank you

aaronr121

Hey all, any help would be appreciated. Anybody know a source for A/C compressor parts? I need a valve plate, or at least the reed valves for a Sanden 7V compressor.

I don't want to spend a lot of money on the repair, so replacing the compressor is OOTQ. Tried taking apart a few other Sandens, on different makes, but the valves are usually off by fractions of a MM.

pjfreestone

I can hear the blower of my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee AC but the air is not coming out of the vents and there is a drip of water in the area of the floor of the front passenger seat. Where should I start looking for the solution???

Mr_Shiftright

I would think you'd have to contact the compressor manufacturer directly, wherever that is...which is where compressor rebuilders would get their parts. I doubt any dealer or Internet auto parts operation would break down individual AC compressor "small parts".

mittle

Sounds like the heater contol valve or also known as the dual climate control valve. Motorcraft part# yg355 & sells for about $155 on the internet or E-Bay. Located in the front passenger side of the car to the left of the bottom of the radiator. Usually when the hot air blows, set temperature to 90 & set back to 65 & it should correct itself. Sometimes you can tap the the top of valve with a long pipe & hammer & it will also correct itself for a while. When it really becomes a pain, then it's time to replace it. I'm still procrastinating when to change mine.

vintage_car

I'm looking for some advice on my 2005 silverado extended cab. It has 62K+ miles on it and up until last week has had no issues. Thursday I started the truck and the AC was on when the truck was started as it has been many times in the past, it was on the Highest setting on the fan dial and no air came out? On settings 0-4 the air was responsive as normal, but #5 nothing came out. As I drove to the interstate with air on #4 I changed it to the Highest setting and it worked. The next day the same issue and then that afternoon, none of the settings worked. With the dial on the highest setting driving 70-80mph down the interstate and the setting on #5 on the fan control it blows very cold air, but at a very low output. It seems it blows cold air with the RPM's of the truck. So if I'm sitting still there is barely any air blowing, when I push on the gas the air blows more (Still not anywhere near what it should) but it does blow harder. Where do I look first?

burdawg

I would check the fan resistor board first. Kind of a strange problem as you describe, but I believe that's where I would look first.
I'm not sure where it's located on your model, but it's a good bet it's in the air plenum somewhere before the heater core and A/C evaporator.
Keep in mind that on the highest fan setting the resistor board is bypassed, the fan is connected directly to battery via a relay.

xoas19

I am having the exact same Problem with my 99 Buick Century. Did you ever figure out what is causing this?

vintage_car

It was the fan resistor and the connector was bad as well. changed both out and she is cold again! Thanks for the area to look at first, I had no idea where to start...

avssuc

I have the same exact problem with my wifes 2002 Liberty. She recharged it at a shop prio to comming out to live with me on my new base and it still didn't work. I'm going to take it in to my base auto shop and hook it up to a computer to see if I can find the problem. It definitly has something to do with the clutch. Wether it is the temp sensor as another poster was saying remains to be seen, but I know for fact that the clutch in my wifes car works when you first start the car and then shuts off. I'll reply ASAP with my findings.