Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

maich75

I have been had at work to fnd what was the problem with my 1995 Honda Accord SiR 2.2 V-Tec Climate Control System coming on intimitently. The problem is simply the Climate Controller Unit that is on the dash-board. It simply had had its days and needed to be replaced. Some chip on it mother-board was dying hence the on sometimes and off sometimes kind of thing. If you have a computer geek who knows abit about motherboards and chips (not potato chips), can test the unit and try to isolate the faulty chip and if possible replace it if possible. For me a second hand unit imported from Japan resolved the problem. I also replaced the blower control unit which sits on the blower fan housing. Good luck, and if you need parts just ask for directions how to get them. It will certainly be cheaper than buying from your local Honda dealer.

maich75

I have been had at work to fnd what was the problem with my 1995 Honda Accord SiR 2.2 V-Tec Climate Control System coming on intimitently. The problem is simply the Climate Controller Unit that is on the dash-board. It simply had had its days and needed to be replaced. Some chip on it mother-board was dying hence the on sometimes and off sometimes kind of thing. If you have a computer geek who knows abit about motherboards and chips (not potato chips), can test the unit and try to isolate the faulty chip and if possible replace it if possible. For me a second hand unit imported from Japan resolved the problem. I also replaced the blower control unit which sits on the blower fan housing. Good luck, and if you need parts just ask for directions how to get them. It will certainly be cheaper than buying from your local Honda dealer.

kjmoore

I've got a 98 Jeep Wrangler. I get nothing with the fan switch on levels 1 through 3. The fan starts blowing at level 4 (or the highest setting) only. I get no cold air at all but the freon level seems to check out (110 Lbs.) Also, the defrost is hit or miss....I get nothing but can wiggle the control knob some and occassionaly get it to come on. Do I need a new control unit?
If so, are there any recommendations on where to buy one?
THANKS!

xoas19

Most likely you blew a resistor. Most of the times in dodge and chryslers they are located under the passenger side of the dash. I had the same thing happen to me in my dodge Stratus. I will post more details about the exact part that i replaced this evening.

xoas19

I checked it out and I would suggest replacing your blower motor resistor. If you go to the manufacturer they will be able to order the part for you. It may cost about $50. As long as you can get to the resistor replacement shouldn't be too difficult.

maich75

I guess you there answer is clear to you now. Change the blower fan resistor. Its often located (screwed on to) the blower fan casing (housing). Once you've done that things should get back to normal. Oh and watch out for mechanics who want to charge you an arm and a leg; its a half hour job Max and thats pushing it. You could replace it your self if you are a handy person. Unplug the power controller cable connector, unscrew the bolts holding the resistor in place and repeat the reverse process to install the new one. Then you should be able to enjoy the variable speeds on your blower controller.

kjmoore

Thanks for the info! Would it make sense, or is it possible to test it with an ohm meter first?

The repair sounds easy enough...I will take a look for it later this morning.

xoas19

Well the first thing to do is pull the blower resistor. at that point you should do two things. Test the resistance with an ohm meter, and check for continuity at all points. More than likely this is your problem. Once replaced everything should work again. At least it did in my stratus. If you don't know where to look for the resistor I suggest buying one of the fix it yourself manuals for your car. they run about $15 and should have everything you need to know...or you could always go to the library they should have some reference materials as well. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

imidazol97

Location of resistor: "My manual says, If you have A/C you can go thru the access panel below for the recirc door. Otherwise, it's located below the glove box under the access panel to the far right"

kjmoore

I think this is definately a problem. Looks like one of the leads got fried at one point and I will have to replace the connector or wire it directly. If I could figure out how to upload a picture I would post the connector and the resistor to ensure I'm going down the right path. At this point I'm not sure the resistor is bad but it's obvious one wire on the connector is shot. Also, one lead on the resistor is totally corroded and if not replaced will require some sanding/filing to get back to clean metal.

Thanks for the help!">

imidazol97

Open a photobucket.com account (free) or mycarspace already exists for you here on Edmunds. Upload the picture there from your computer at home. Copy the link given for the picture there in Photobucket or mycarspace into the middle of two clicks on the Img button below the posting box here on the page.

Or copy the link and press the URl button below and paste the link andthen click the URl button to close. People can click on the link.

Example: < img src="http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/DSC01160mod.jpg" >

Example: < a href="http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/DSC01160mod.jpg">link title

Example: < img src="http://www.carspace.com/imidazol97/Albums/First" >

To copy from the mycarspace page I had to do a rightclick on the mouse and choose "copy shortcut."

kjmoore

Ok - here's my shot at uploading the images...

link title


See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

http://www.carspace.com/kjmoore/Albums/Jeep blower resistor/July2007 240.jpg/photo/v./photo.jpg" border="0" height="362" width="544">
See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

djepps

I have a 2001 Dodge Strates SE 4dr. A few months back my A/C started acting up. Sometime it would work and sometimes not. If it is set on one the A/C options and not blowing cold air, we have to flip it to defrost, and then flip it back to one of the A/C options. And it will work. As of this morning. Now my 1-3 levels don't blow air, similar to this Jeep. So I am curious and thinking that my resistor is also broken? and is it in the same location? Would this solve both problems?(A/C and 1-3 levels) Thank you for your help.

rstacy1975

Last summer my air conditioner quit working, the mechanic from the dealer I bought it from put more coolant in it a few times and each time it went out (within 2 weeks) it would hiss from the panel vents and a little puff of "smoke" - not really smoke but looked like it would come out of the vents then surely enough, it went out that week. It did this 3 times before he put the dye in it and told us to bring it back but he didn't seem to know what he was doing and it was fall so we didn't take it back to him but decided to take it to our mechanic and just pay for it ourselves. It was then fall so we waited until this summer to do it. The mechanic charged my system and put dye in it then told me to come back when it gave out again. 6 weeks later it gave out again. Once again, it would hiss out of the vent panels and puff of "smoke". We took it back in immediately and all he said was "the best he could tell it would be the compressor". Please give me your opinions. Thanks
Stacy

burdawg

My opinion is take it to someone who knows what they're doing. If dye was put it in then the next logical step was to operate the system and look for the leak. What that done?

jwerner145

I have the same problem with my 2004 chevy silverado. What was your outcome? I would like to know how to fix this problem. Do i need to install eletric fans or get a new fan clutch?

or83

does anyone know id a 300d mercedes benz ac compressor will fit into a 240d?

Mr_Shiftright

Never tried it but you could always try a numbers match on the compressor. As I recall, there were TWO types of compressor used during that era....one pretty good, one garbage...I think the "high mount" compressor was the bad one---yes, I'm sure of that. Was it made by York or something like that? Stay away from those entirely. YOu want the low mounted one.

kerensa

I have a 95 buick century and want to replace the harness control but can not find where it is located....HELP!!

oldsdriver1

Good morning - I was very happy to read this message about the same problem I am experiencing with my 1997 Olds Regency. However before I begin with the fix I need to know how to access the program module! Can you advise me?
Thanks

donander

I currently have a 99 Camry which I like but will be replacing it sometime around 2008 or 2009 and buying another used vehicle, about 2 years old so I'd be looking for a 2006-2007 vintage vehicle. Does anyone know if any manufacturers make a reasonably priced 4 door passenger sedan (say $15,000 or so when 2 or 3 years old) that has an instant-on heater? It seems like a simple thing to just put an electric element in the heater system that would come on when you turn the heat on just after you start the car in cold weather. As the engine temperature rises the heating system could transition from the electric element to the engine heat. I know some people are going to say that electric seats accomplish this and I suppose I'd be willing to try that out (I've never had them) but does anyone know if the instant heat thing is on any vehicles?

menehune99

My A/C wasn't blowing cold air. Had it recharged 2wks ago and now no more cold air. The shop says that there is a "rear evaporator leak" and will be $900+ to fix. Is this normal for this type of issue?

imidazol97

Install a block heater. Or put a heater into the radiator hose. I put one of those in long ago. Had heat almost immediately. I set the timer to turn on about 4 am to start heating up the lower hose coolant!

You just have to remember to unplug the car before you drive off.

kiawah

If it wasn't blowing cold air, it certainly is likely that there is a leak somewhere. You appear to have had it recharged, and then it doesn't work anymore. To leak out that much freon that fast, does point to some hole or crack somewhere.

What would normally be done, it that they would use a leak detector to sniff and detect where the leak is. A leak could be anywhere in the system.

A little bit unclear about the sequence of events. Did you take it in for fixing, they told you the evaporator was bad, and you told them to just fill it w/freon without doing the fix?

Or did they just fill it the first time, and now you have taken it back into them and they tested it for where it is leaking...and now tell you the leak is in the rear evaporator?

Parts and labor to put the part in, evacuate the system, fill it back up w/freon and test it.

tosta7113

Hello; Does anyone know the location of the AC Compressor relay on a 1997 Ford Thunderbird? I've looked all over and cannot locate the relay. It's not in the relay box or the fuse panel. The relay is not listed in the owners manual. Any help is greatly appreciated since I've been looking for over one year. Thanking you in advance Tony

kiawah

I don't know about a 97 Thunderbird, but if you have looked at the normal spaces, you might look on the 'backside' of fuse holder.

You could have a holder which has the fuses on one side facing easy access to the cabin, and then on the backside it would hold the relays which aren't normally as replaceable as a fuse. You may have to unbolt the holder to pull it down to access the backside.

mist

I have a 95 Ford Contour. My problem is that i have no A\C at all. All i get is hot air. I thought since the car is older that i just might be out of freon or what ever it is now. I went out and bought one of those do it yourself kits and the pressure in the systems is well in the red zone. Any ideas on what it might be?

tosta7113

My 97 thunderbird is the same as your car and I've been told it's probably the AC Compressor Relay. Good lUCK

tosta7113

Thanks for the info, I will look behind my fuse panel tomorrow.

llcooljj26

for no apparent reason sometimes when i'm driving, the drivers side vents will start blowing hot air. meanwhile the passenger side is still blowing cold. the only way to get it back to normal is to turn off the engine completely for about two seconds and then restart the motor. then both sides blow cold again. any suggestions?

jessekelley

What type of freeon go in a 93 mazda protege

imidazol97

IIRC this has been discussed a couple of times in this discussion or one of the others on Edmunds. You might try using the search box at the bottom of the page. Try searching for AC and Silverado.

bobbyg6

I'm not too experienced with vehicles or their AC systems, so I thought I'd ask for some help/advice. My AC blows cold air when I'm driving at moderate speeds, but as soon as I stop at a red light or stop sign, it starts to blow ambient, warm air. What's the problem? Is it easily fixed? Thanks for any advice.

burdawg

Could be a number of things. If the charge is low then when idling it won't work well. The belt could be loose and is slipping on the pulley. The compressor could be weak. Could be vacuum related. I think in your case I would find a good A/C shop and have it diagnosed.

taco4

I have a 96 riviera and am having the same problem on drivers side blowing warm air and the pass. blowing cold air I checked on a resistor and it was about 150 bucks. Is there an easy way to know if that resistor is bad without replacing it?
Thanks for the info.

mist

Here is my problem. I just had my water pump replaced about a month ago. That was the first reason that my car started to got well in the hot zone. Now a month later the car is starting to get to hot again. I never let the car get to hot. We did have the head gasket checked to see if there was any damage to the block. What could be making it over heat again? :confuse: I believe it is the radiator. My reasoning for this is that when the car starts to get to hot I can turn on the defrost and the little bit of extra cooling from the defrost will bring it down to normal temp range. And it will stay there. The other thing that may be wrong is the thermostat. Which is cheaper fix but am sure we replaced that to. Any help would be great.

Mr_Shiftright

You might have an air block in your cooling system, if it was not bled correctly after the water pump install.

mist

How would i go about fixing this myself?
Is that easy to get to and bleed like brakes are.

Mr_Shiftright

Kinda, but all cars are different in the procedure. It would be best for you to get the bleeding procedure for your particular car. Generally it's not very hard to do but some cards have bleeder nuts on the water pump, etc and a few require a tool or two. I bet if you google it you might find an answer for your car.

Here's a general primer:

http://www.radiators.com/radiator_how_to_maintain.html

but you should do yours according to your car's workshop manual.

mcoder

I am having trouble finding information on the O-rings used on the high and low pressure pipe at the evaporator. I went to an auto parts store and ordered an O-ring set for the A\C system, when I picked up the O-ring set there wasn't any information on which O-rings went where. I bought a Chilton's book but that was a dead end. I disconnected the high & low pipes and found what looks like a wiper instead of a O-ring. I replaced the so called wiper with the identical part in the new O-ring set but it did't hold pressure. I am at a lose as what to do, Please help.

pstreicher

The above vehicle belongs to my girlfriend of which she informed me yesterday that the A/C is not working. I checked the panel in the car and noticed that there were not any lights working indication there was any power to it. I then went under the hood and checked every fuse box/fuse that I could find and no fuses were blown. Maybe it's a relay? I have not idea if those can be checked other than to replace each with a new one. She doesn't have any manual with an electrical schematic. If anyone knows where I can download a .pdf or other I'd be appreciative. I am experienced in electronics and electrical and have a VOM meter. One other thing, I did notice that the pulley on the compressor was not spinning with the belt. I'm not sure if it should spin if power is not applied to the clutch or not. I note this as a month ago she asked me what I could do about the squeaking belt. I was able to turn the set screw a turn or two to eliminate the squeak. Now I'm wondering if this is any way related to the A/C failure but it appears to be an electrical problem as I don't see any lights on the panel inside the vehicle. Now I'm not sure if there are any lights to light when you hit the A/C switch or not. Just can't remember. Thanks in advance for any help. Favors are returned. Paul in Tampa

kiawah

You can access factory Ford manuals at www.helminc.com There is a minimal charge for 2 day access on a particular vehicle, and you can print/download the pages/chapters you need, including electrical schematics.

imidazol97

Did you go to the Saturn dealer and get the specific O-rings for that car. I've found that's always much better than trying the aftermarket for specialized items. And it's cheaper in the end, both in terms of redos and my time.

kiawah

imidazol97,

Is it importantly necessary to vaccuum the system after opening it up, before filling w/143?

I'm getting higher and higher low side pressure to the point that my AC compressor is running all the time now instead of cycling on/off (97 Chev Sub w/rear air), so am thinking about replacing the compressor. Everything is original, and has never had to been opened at this point. AC is somewhat cool now, but has been colder in the past.

Checked the autoparts store last weekend, and they have replacement compressors for couple hundred bucks, so seems like a simple swap out, assuming I don't need to pull a vaccuum. Haven't found a reasonably priced vaccuum pump. I'll probably start with the orifice first, as high pressure could also be caused by a restricted orifice (and they're only 3 bucks).

I've never vaccuumed in the past w/F12 when worked on systems years ago, just don't know if this is a 143 thing. Worst case I guess I cold just replace the parts, and then take it somewhere to vac and fill.

mcoder

I found 1 auto parts dealer that could order the O-ring set all the other places I called said to bring in the O-ring and they would try to match it. It looks like I will try getting the parts from the dealer.

imidazol97

You haven't mentioned the pressure on the high side and what it's doing. I don't have an answer. I use the factory service manuals and work from the data and troubleshooting in there.

mcoder

I have less than 25 PSI on both high and low sides. The problem with the system is a leak at the condenser connection; I am looking for a schematic to show the correct O-ring that is used to seal the connections at the condenser.

jaj2

How do I replace the blower for the heater & A/C. I assume it is located under the dash.

imidazol97

Your car is the same as the 2003 and I assume it's the same as the Bonneville. AllData has a free sample of their online producct and the same is a 2003 Bonnie. Here ya go:

Blower motor

Note the blower motor requires removing the sound proofing panel above the passenger's legs inside the car. Previous LeSabres were accessed from under the hood in the firewall>

jaj2

Thanks. Now that I know where to start, I think I can take care of from here. I have a 1995 Buick LeSabre, that blower motor is so simple to replace.