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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

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Comments

  • cuzzxcuzzx Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1989 chevy van.
    theres a tag under the hood that states that this a/c will run with either r-12 or r134(?).
    on the large cyclinder is a screw on cap where r12 can be hooked up and on the larger line is set for r134.
    so what gives?
    have never heard of this before.
  • sizsiz Posts: 2
    On my 2003 Chrysler Sebring convertible, the fan speed control on the dashboard works on the highest setting only, so the air flow can be either very fast or off, but nothing in between. Is the trouble in the control or in the blower? Any suggestions? Thanks. Siz.
  • rc33073rc33073 Posts: 5
    Correction! From 30psi to 35psi so the tech added 5psi not 5lbs. I had four places recommend disassembly of the dash and not adding freon. A conspiracy?
  • cuzzxcuzzx Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1989 chevy van.
    theres a tag under the hood that states that this a/c will run with either r-12 or r134(?).
    on the large cyclinder is a screw on cap where r12 can be hooked up and on the larger line under the cap you can use either r12(screw) or r134 (clip/snap).

    so what gives?
    have never heard of this before.

    second time around 2
  • m626m626 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a recurring problem with my '02 mazda 626. I bought it new from the dealer. First summer was rather cool here in Seattle, so I don't remember complaining about the AC. Second summer it was blowing air the same temp as just the fan with AC button off. Took it to the dealer. They said it was out of refrigerant. They were very surprised, considering that the car was new and said they typically see this after an accident. My car has never been in one that I know of. They refilled the system and changed a small hose, which they thought was touching another part under the hood, possibly rubbing enough to cause a leak. They also assured me that they replaced it in such a way that it will not be a problem again. Next summer (last), same problem. Blows air, just not cold. Back at the dealership they refused to examine it for free claiming that it is a different problem. I gave up on them ( probably shouldn't have) and went to a friend. He checked the system for leaks and found none, however the refrigerant level was low and he topped up. Worked like a charm after that, until this spring. Our first warm day and no AC. It is about 60 outside. The car sat in the sun in the lot for hours and I turned the AC on to cool it off for the kids. No luck.Drove home on I-5 for about 20 min -- no cold. I know now what it's like when Ac is full. It gets cold fast. Has anyone had a invisible leak like this before? No one seems to find the way the refrigerant goes. My car has under 30K miles on it and was bought new. The maintanance cost so far has greatly exceeded all my expectations. I can't be replenishing the Ac system every year!!!! If you have any advice on what to look for , please let me know.
  • Sounds like the head pressure of your system is getting high due to cooling system problems. Make sure your fan clutch is in good shape. If this truck has a lot of miles on it the best thing you can do for it is to change your radiator. Inadequate air flow at an idle causes high head pressure.When you run down the road the air flow increases through the system and the pressue goes down.
  • Got a 1992 C-1500 pickup that stops cooling and the A/C light flashes on the dash. The fan continues to run but the compressor shuts down. The temporary solution is to disconnect the battery and reset the system. This might last as long as 150 miles. Anyone got an idea to solve this?????
  • 777pilot777pilot Posts: 4
    2002 F250. I have refrigerant charge but the compressor wont turn on when I call for air. I've checked the fuse (slot #10 as per the owners manual). With a meter I get continuity from what I think is the minimum pressure switch on the same electric lead that splits and plug to the compressor. When I check the lead to the compressor, while calling for air I get zero voltage. Bad computer? relay? or compressor? or am I assuming that closed continuity is indication of enough refrigerant?
    thanks
  • rc33073rc33073 Posts: 5
    When your AC compressor was replaced to correct the noise you spoke about I'm sure the system was recharged with more freon than before to the proper level and that solved the temp. difference. Don't you think?
  • rc33073rc33073 Posts: 5
    I think your saying the clutch does not engage? Unplug the pressure switch under the hood. Jump across the two female connectors to manually tell the compressor clutch to engage. If clutch does not engage look at the gap between clutch and pulley. I have seen a need for this gap to be closure to allow the magnet to atract the clutch.
  • 777pilot777pilot Posts: 4
    Thanks;

    I found that the switch itself (the one that screws to the accumulator housing) was bad! The good thing is that a schrader valve keeps the system pressure and you can just replace the switch with no loss of coolant. I bought a good shop manual well woth the $20....
  • gray621gray621 Posts: 1
    Basically, the a/c in my Silverado doesn't work. The light on the a/c switch doesn't light up, and air doesn't come out through the vents at all, including the defrost vents. Only hot air seems to come out through the 4x4 gear box on the floorboard.

    When I switch the a/c or heat on I don't hear the compressor switch on. There's also a bad knocking sound that I think is coming from the compressor. I was told that may be a loose bearing in the compressor. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • dunlap3dunlap3 Posts: 3
    Hi ima65gtonut: The A/C issue continues with my 2004 Silverado going up to 90 degrees at idle. I had a 2003 with the exact same problem. The eng. temp never fluctuates, it stays at 205. On the '03, the cycling switch was replaced,condenser o-rings,fan clutch, warped blend doors,actuators,numerous re-calibrations of actuator motors etc. Never was fixed. They tried to tell me my billet grille was blocking air flow, (High Head Temp. as you said) It did it before I installed it, but to prove my point I took it out, same problem. (9 times back to G.M. then bought back under CA. Lemon Law). I was told this was the only truck ever to roll off the Assy.Line with this problem. Bought the '04, 14 months later, different dealer, SAME PROBLEM, and I have video after video of it doing exactly what I say, but it's not a trained seal, so it does not act up all the time, usually a few times a week in 100 degree weather. It gets cool at best most of the time, but family, friends and co-workers have been in it when it does it's thing, cause G.M. tried the "I'm expecting too much" theory as well. My truck cools to the low 50's when my friends G.M. vehicles and my 1995 Astro Van are in the low 40's which I also have on video cause G.M told me 30 degrees below ambient temp. is the industry standard. Problem is, my van goes to mid 40's at 100 degree ambient temp's as do the numerous loaners,(All G.M.) that I had and video taped as well. The low side hose, with the compressor on when it acts up is VERY WARM, not even close to cool and no sweating from the accumulator or anything else. I agree on the head pressure, so why do they blow me off rather than try something??? One of the loaners I had was a 1500 ext cab. and the A/C on that was like ICE under the same amount of distance traveled and and ambient temp. I popped the hood and noticed no fan off the water pump, but 2 very large electric fans in front. I agree. air flow issue and head temp. but they keep telling me"Your system works according to design" Let me know what ya think I can do from here. Thanks, Bob
  • kevsplacekevsplace Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Isuzu Trooper that I love with one problem... the AC. After the compressor locked up, I replaced it along with a new dryer. We evacuated the lines and the system, charged with nitrogen and left in system for one week. After a week, we evacuated the nitrogen and then weighed out the correct amount of R134a and filled precisely. There are no leaks. The problem I have is the AC will not go below 60F while driving at 65mph. When sitting idle, blows out 100F. We have checked the pressures and all seem fine... on the Low side, we are at about 40 when at about 3000 rpm. Any suggestions? I am thinking that maybe the heater is somehow adding heat to the system and not allowing the AC to blow cold enough. Thanks to all who post in advance!
  • jakartajakarta Posts: 3
    I bought an 01 Limited late 03, and notice that the AC is not blowing cold. The original owner had the AC system replaced under warranty because the compressor seized, and he mentioned prior to the problem, the AC is cold. Last summer I have tried different local dealers and they all told me it is within spec. So summer is coming and I am need to have cold AC here in KY. When outside is 80F, the middle vent is blowing about 60F with vehicle moving. If the vehicle stops, it will go up to 70F. Any idea what is wrong with this AC? I am close to the end of extended warranty 100K, so I need to solve this asap, not to mention it is getting warm here....

    Its a wonderful vehicle except the AC issue.
    Thanks
    Chris
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    I've got a 2003 ford taurus sel. It's got almost 60K miles. I haven't had a problem with it yet, but now the AC isn't working properly. I thought maybe it just needed a recharge, but when I hooked up the guage to test it before putting in the freon, the guage told me FULL??? and then when I walked around and fealt the air comeing out, it was COLD again??? So, I waited a couple hours, turned it on, and it wasn't working, let it ran for a min, still didn't work, turned it off. Then I waited a coupe of min's and turned it back on, and it was working again? Anyone know what it could be?
  • My daughter's 2000 Sunfire air conditioning system is intermittant-sometimes the compressor clutch engages and the thing blows cold air, other times it won't engage and the air from the vent is hot. When you select ON with the switch, the electric radiator fan starts and the engine idle readjusts, however, the compressor clutch won't engage half the time. I just replaced the compressor/clutch (the clutch bearings were bad and the clutch wobbled when it would engage). The system is fully charged and I have no leaks. Any ideas what to check next?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,508
    There is probably a relay that switches the higher power that the clutch needs to engage. I had one of those go out. Look at your owners book for the clutch relay. Mine would engage and occasionally wouldn't and the air would warm up then the contacts would make a circuit and the compressor would cool down again. This was on a model with the cycling clutch where the relay went on and off all the time.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Thanks for the reply, however, the last owner of this car must have decided he needed the manual more than I did (I didn't get one!). I've swapped the A/C and Fuel Pump relays in the fuse panel under the hood and that hasn't solved this problem (not sure if this was the clutch relay and I'm reluctant to spend $20 at the auto parts store on a manual for one wiring diagram). Anybody know if GM/Pontiac has a website that I can view a manual? Thx, Dave
  • ejmightyejmighty Posts: 1
    Ejmighty
    I have a 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante,i Have a problem with my heat when it cold outside say about 30 degrees, my heat will not come on, not the blower or nothing. When the car warms up about 15 minutes the heat will come on. I have taken it to different places even the dealer they could not fix the problem. It seems like no ones knows how to fix the problem. I've had the heater control replaced. I don't know what else to do. Help! I Really love my car.
  • bryanbryan Northern VAPosts: 228
    My GXP has the automatic climate control. The A/C in "AUTO" mode worked fine until two months ago; now it works sporadically. My paperwork from dealer service indicates "Found HVAC Control Assembly Bad--Replaced Control Assembly Head". It worked fine in AUTO for a couple of weeks, but is now acting up again. Took it back to service--got that dreaded "could not duplicate". Told me the compressor worked fine, was properly charged, etc.

    According to the owner's manual, "When in AUTO, the air conditioning compressor will come on automatically, as necessary". I don't recall seeing anything lit up on the control panel display when the AUTO system was working correctly. However, when the problem started, "A/C Off" would indicate on the control display. I usually could reset it by turning off the climate control and restarting it by pressing AUTO. Not any longer!

    The A/C seems to work fine when the car is first started; after a few minutes, the cold air ceases, and it starts to smell "musty". It may then kick back to cold in a few minutes, or not for awhile. Once when I floored the car to pass on a two-lane highway, the cold air came back on! However, now that doesn't happen.

    To fix my car, it appears that the service folks overroad the auto setting by pushing the A/C button--the "A/C on" is now lit up all the time on the control display panel. It worked fine for awhile, but now it stops producing cold air, even though the "A/C On" is lit up on the control panel. I even got the "A/C Off" to light up for a short time, and did not press any button! It will sometimes cycle the air back to cold, but when that musty smell starts, I know the cold air is done!

    It never did that before when in AUTO. For manual A/C operation, my owner's manual says "Press this button to override the automatic system and turn the air conditioning system on or off. When A/C is pressed, an indicator light in the button will come on to let you know that it is activated". The "snowflake" button does NOT light up. And, the "A/C On" does not always readily light on the control display. I usually have to turn the car off and then press the A/C button immediately upon restart to get it to indicate "A/C On" in the display, but, cold air does not always come out of the vents!

    The dealer got no codes when hooked up to diagnostics. I believe they are stumped as well. I have used this forum to address other issues, and my dealer is anxious to see what you folks suggest. I apologize for the long post, but if someone can help, it would be most appreciated!

    Thanks, Bryan
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    I was told the "musty-ness" is a result of a leak in the system. If that hasn't been checked, or if the dealer had excluded that as a problem, that's what I would check. Although, I have a problem almost like this and I don't have a leak. I wouldn't quite call it musty, for me it's more like the feel of fog... but you can't see it, there isn't any type of that coming out. Anyone have any info on my problem? on the '03 Ford Taurus?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,508
    The musty smell comes when the compressor cuts off and the coils warm back up so you're smelling the humidity from the water in the air flow box, normal. The smell might be from the car being closed up all the time and not drying the box out. I.e., leave winodws open when the car is in the garage so air can flow through the air conditioning box and through the car.

    The problem is different than the older models before 00 when the programmer was vacuum operated. The newer ones are electrical. Your dealer should be able to find what's happening if it's giving the problem as often as it sounds like it does. Let them give you a loaner and drive yours a couple of days so it can happen when they ahve the techII hooked up to it.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bryanbryan Northern VAPosts: 228
    I was hoping you might reply; you seem to know alot about GM cars, which I don't; and, you seem to have a "soft spot" for GM cars, which I do.

    Anyway, the musty smell is only for a couple of seconds, and now that you have explained it, happens as the A/C compressor quits and the coils warm back up. The car had no such odor until the A/C started acting up. Also, I left the car for three days with them, and I think what they did was start it each day and drive it around the lot/local roads for a few minutes. The problem usually takes longer than that to manifest itself. If nothing else, I am patient. And, owning 4 GM cars, I can let them have the Bonny another week or so, no problem. That's how I finally got my sunroof rattle properly diagnosed--the service manager commuted in the car for a week. And I must say, other than the sunroof rattle and this latest A/C issue, the car has been great.

    When I go back on Friday, I will be armed with a lot more info that I had. The more I have read on this thread makes me think my dealer will be able to solve the problem--I'll just "help" them with some good 'ol Edmunds knowledge. Thanks again for your input.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    This is just a thought since I have no knowledge of the system on that particular model. It sounds to me like loss of vacuum, and you desription could bear that out.
    You say that it works fine when you first turn it on, but then quits after some time. With all ACC systems I have seen they run in "max" or "recirculate" mode when you first turn them on, then switch over to fresh air mode when the temperature approaches your setting. This switchover is almost always done by a vacuum solenoid that mechanically moves a door to direct the input air from inside or outside the car, inside being the max position and outside the fresh air position. If the valve is leaky or the control for the valve it can cause the problem your talking about. This can happen with the vacuum leak not causing any other noticable problems with the car since they usually have a one way valve installed in the vacuum source to keep it that way.
    The time you said it worked when you sped up to pass on the highway could have been caused by the vacuum jumping up when you let off the gas after passing.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,508
    The three doors are controlled electrically. There is no vacuum.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,508
    I reread and it sounds like a connection or faulty control panel. The dealer should be using it with a TechII to tell them if the AC off button is indeed requesting "off" or "on."

    Was the weather in the 40s when this happened? The AC runs down into the 40s before it cuts off the compressor due to low outside temps. It also would cut off if the charge of freon is low and that pressure has dropped below the minimum required to operate the system (that's another way of protecting the system besides the power train module sensing outside temps too low for AC compressor operation. Too little freon would mean your car would drop pressure after the compressor squeezes it into the high side lines and condensor and that would turn off the compressor for a while. Then the freon going through the expansion value into the evaporator would raise the pressure on the low side and the system would turn the compressor back on.

    I'll spend some quality time with my service manual later today with a cup of decaf and see what I come up with on the controls. I still think the TechII info will catch the problem--but it might be certain outside, ambient temps at which it's happening. Checking the total freon charge may not be easy, however, without evacuating and refilling these days.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I plan on purchasing a bottle of a/c flush to clean out the system before installing a new compressor (it seized). Does anyone know how to get rid of the air that will be in the system afterwards?

    p.s. I live in Phoenix, so humidity is so low that there won't be much moisture in the air.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,508
    You must have a proper gauge system and a vacuum pump. It has to have a vacuum on it for a certain length of time minimum before refilling with a weighed amount of freon. Don't forget to properly put the right amount of oil into the system to replace the amount you remove with the compressor.

    I think it would be best to pay someone to evacuate and refill.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bryanbryan Northern VAPosts: 228
    Thanks for taking more time to help me with this issue. I live just outside Washington, DC, so, in response to your temperature question, I had not noticed any problem with the automatic climate control (A/C portion) until the outside temperature warmed up to the low 60s to low 70s in mid-April. I immediately took it into service and that's when they replaced the control assembly head. I assume that's different from a faulty control panel?

    I also spent some time looking back at some messages on this thread and thought the problem described in messages 25 and 30 (different type of car) was similar to my situation. I printed that out along with Mr. Shiftright's response (message 26) which indicated "Sounds like the a/c clutch is cycling off and on, so the problem could be electrical and has nothing to do with freon charged or coolant". And my dealer told me after the last visit that the freon charge level was okay. I'm taking several printed pages on Friday to the dealer from this thread that have a few other potential suggestions for them to explore. Your comment "The dealer should be using it with a TechII to tell them if the AC off button is indeed requesting "off" or "on."" really caught my attention, and I will be sure to bring that detail to the dealer's attention as well.

    Hopefully, that will help them fix the problem. The car is warrantied for six years/60K, so I have four years and 41K more miles left ;) I really appreciate your time, effort and extensive knowledge. Folks like you on this board provide invaluable service. Thanks again.
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