I have a 98 Oldsmobile Silhouette mini van. Just the other day, when it happened to be over 100 degrees here, the drivers side ai conditoner stopped working properly.
The two vents, on either side of the steering wheel were giving off warmer air than the rest of the vents in the van. Needless to say, everyone else in the car was freezing and I was still sweating. I went to two different service stations to see if they could figure out was was wrong and they both only shook their heads in confusion.
Has anyone every had this problem or a similar one, and is there a way to fix it without costing lots of money. Thanks;
I am having that same problem with my Jeep Liberty (2002). It just began happening this spring. I went to the dealership and they replaced the high and low pressure switches. Problem was not fixed. Second trip to dealership they replaced the AC control head. It stays colder longer before it eventually goes out. The dealership says that unless the AC is not working when I bring it in that they can not diagnose. Also my boyfriend asked about clutch and they said that was not the problem since it was working. Freon was checked as well and it was good. They are now at a loss and I am miserable. I wondered if this was a problem with all Libertys...I bought my new in 2001.
Recently had the a/c recharged on a 95 Cutlass Ciera 3.1 v6. This was my dad's car that he bought new and has 68000 mi. A/C is working great, except after a couple of days after getting the a/c working again, I started to notice a stench coming from the interior vents when the car was first started. It is very moldy smelling, not engine oil, or anti-freeze. It has progressively gotten worse to where I smell it all the time. Car seems to be dripping water (normal) when a/c is on, and I am not seeing any water on floor boards inside, so I think it is draining fine. Have resorted to spraying Lysol over intake vent (outside, located at base of windshield), and this helps temporarily. Spoke to two garages, and they are clueless. All either said, is I have a leak, and if it is the evaporator, it is expensive. I know there has to be a way to rid this smell. Any suggestions?
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Try leaving the windows open for a period of time. If you park in a garage, leave them open at night. Or leave them cracked so air moved through the car and through the heater case to take away some of the moisture. My wife tends to leave her car closed and it gets a smell. But airing it by leaving windows open helps.
Make sure the drain is really open. Support front of car with a jackstand, and look up from under the firewall and find the tube where the water drains out of the case and open it with a coat hanger or similar small wire. It might be partly clogged.
On some car shows they mention companies have a foam that goes into the heater case and fills the case and puts antimold chemical all throughout the case. Certain models have had problems; they tell the mechanic exactly where to drill a hole in the case to insert the tube from the can for the foam. I don't know if something similar is available for a generic fix... You might ask at a Buick garage since that cars the same as a Century or Skylark.
ON MY 93 BICK LESABRE THE AIR WILL NOT DISCHARGE THROUGH THE VENT'S, A LITTLE AIR COMES OUT BUT NOT MUCH. MOST OF THE DAMPER DOORS OR WORKING BUT IT SEEMS THAT THE MAIN ONE WILL NOT OPEN.IS THIS ONE OPERATED BY VACUUM OR DC VOLTS
Nissan Altima 1994 witrh 142000 miles. AC would not come on (cold air will not blow). Connected the Walmart brand pressure guage to the "L" end, and the reading was beyond the scale (150psi). All the belts are moving OK, no screeching noise from AC or any other compartment. Engine idles at 700-800 rpm with AC off, with AC ON it idles at ~1000 rpm (without blowing any cold air). Has someone faced such a problem?What is the cause? Solution? COST!!!!? Any info would be helpful as to how I should proceed to get the problem fixed. Thanks.
You might want to release your CAPS LOCK. Many users read this as SHOUTING and will tend to ignore posts like this. Typing in lower case will improve your chances of a response.
On my 93 Buick Lesabre, i am getting just a little air out of my vents.The blower seems to be working good. This is the same way on all settings vent,a/c norm,a/c max,heater or defrost. It seems that the dampers or working that i can check. Is there a main baffle for the air to enter the duct.Can some help me with this problem? Thanks
Is the air coming out the defrosters? That should be the default mode for whenever the unit quits working right. If air is coming out the defrosters no matter what button you change to, then you may have no vacuum to the control box inside the car. That will require troubleshooting out in the engine compartment.
IF you have no vacuum to the inside, start with the easy things. If I recall correctly my 93 LeSabre had a small box up behind the engine in the box that crosses under the air intakes where the fuses and power center is. The small box stored vacuum from the motor. Check the lines to and from that. Then trace the small line to the inside of the car if you have vacuum at the storage box.
I have a 4 cylinder stick that starts out blowing out through the dash vents and then stops. The fan continues to blow but nothing is coming out any of the vents. If I turn everything off for a moment and re-start the air it will be fine for a few seconds and stop coming out the vents again. I could sure use some help with this as my son is about to head for school very soon (west coast to the east coast) and we had this surprise pop up. Thanks
When it stops blowing out the dash vents does the air come out the defroster? That indicates the system has lost vacuum and reverted to default, safety mode. If this happens, check for vacuum starting from the motor source through to the interior connection to the controls.
For future people that come accross the same issue. It is the blow resistor. A $10 part. on an 01 Durango it is located under the glove box. You don't have to remove anything to get to it. There are 2 5/16 bolts that hold it into place. It will help to have a long (thin) socket to get to one of the bolts. Pop it out, replace and stick it back it.
Hi donviti, I have a similar problem that requires replacement of the resistor. I don't know much about how it looks like, so my question is: is it something you could see directly or is it behind something else? I looked under the glove compartment, but I see a whole lot of bolts that I have no idea which one should be removed. Oh and my car is a 1995 Nissan 200SX SE. Thanks!
Thank you.....you were correct I looked all about the dash and under it by getting on the floor with a flashlight. I found a very small "pod" with a small pipe sticking out and not too far away discovered a very small yellow hose that looked like a piece of wire......... BINGO..........pluged it in and it works great Thanks again dave
96 Contour has air coming out only at defrost position as vents appear to be working only in the default position. Not the vacumn actuator plate behind the glove box. How do you find the location of the problem??
If it means taking out the dash, we will live with the problem and direct the air flow to passengers by adjusting sun visors.
You have to trace the flow of vacuum from the engine to the heater controls inside the car. Most of the time the simplest solution is the one. If you can find a small, 1/8 inch vacuum line coming from the intake manifold that goes to a can, plastic container somewhere under a fender, or on the firewall, or ???, you can check to see if it's holding vacuum while the engine is running. Then trace the line inside the car and see if the line is disconnected inside the car.
Run motor for a short time, then pull off the vacuum lines to see if vacuum is being held in each stage of the flow of the vacuum line.
Many owners of the 2004-5 Mazda 3 have been complaining about a weak A/C Mine doesn't seem as good as I hoped for compared to other vehicles I have owned before. But I did notice that one cool evening while driving when the outside temp was 68F that the air from the vents seemed warmer than the outside air. So I did a quick check and measured the vent temp. With A/C off, fan set at 2 (4 Max), recir off, outside switch on, switch to upper vents, temp to coldest, windows up, idling. The test was done at about 9:00PM so the sun was not an issue. The temp out the vent was 80F after 5 minutes while the temp outside was 68F. A 12 F difference. Seems high to me. Even with the fan speed at 4 made no difference. I checked 2 other vehicles we own and found a 2F difference. Can anybody help me out? Trying to find out why the big difference in temp. Air passing through the hot engine bay before being sucked into the car? Cables or vacuum not working? Cool air mixing with hot air from the heater core? No expert when it comes to A/C but being comfortable at 68F (no A/C) or uncomfortable at 80F (no A/C) looks like I need to use the A/C even when I shouldn't have to. Thank you
Just had car into dealer to find out why the a/c worked some times but not others. Freon is fully charged and no leaks were found during test. Dealer mechanics are recommending I replace basically the entire a/c system (clutch coil, compressor, etc.) About 7-8 hours of labor plus parts that have to be ordered. Am I down to my last option? Or is there some way to have somebody refine the diagnosis and avoid replacing the whole thing? Is an estimate of $1,200 - 1,500 in the ballpark? BTW, I've had this car since it was brand new for almost 10 trouble-free years and have put over 175,000 (mostly freeway) miles on it. Appreciate all input I can get. accord95
I own a 2001 Venture. When I bought it the AC worked great. By the time I got home it was blowing hot air. Took it back and had it checked out. They told me it could either be the main air control unit or it was in the wiring. We put on a used control unit that we know works and still it only blows hot air. So if it is a wiring problem what should I be looking for or replacing? Bought it as is so no help getting this one fixed. I am clueless! Thanks
1995 Chevy Cavalier Z24 - has always had Ice cold A/C. A few weeks ago while driving and using the A/C, air stopped blowing out (wasn't coming out of any vents at all - floor, defroster, etc). It randomly started working again approximately two minutes later at 100% - cold air, blowing out at it's regular speed.
Since then, the intermittent problem became progressively worse until it didn't work more often than it did. I did some research and learned that the Blower Motor Resistor goes out fairly frequently on my model of car, but the symptoms don't seem to match. Everyone with a bad resistor says that it still works, but only at certain fan speeds (high but not low, or vice versa), but mine not does not blow at all. I decided to replace the blower motor itself. Got the new motor installed and tested it out. It now blows, but very softly -- the highest fan speed setting is a little softer than what used to be "low".
Some facts to help anyone who might be able to assist me in diagnosing the problem:
-The fan does change speeds when you move the dial -- definitely four distinct speeds, - The little air that does make it out the vents is ice cold. - The air does come out where you tell it to (if the dial is set to defrost, floor, mix, etc., it comes out the appropriate vents. -Before I replaced the motor, sometimes going over a pothole or rough patch of road would bring it back to life for a few seconds.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I live in Phoenix, and it is HOT.
post #335 The blower does work but it blows hot air. The dealership said the freon was charged and no leaks. If they by-passed the main A/C control unit the compressor would kick in but it would only kick in if they by-passed the main control unit. When I push the A/C button the light come on but it doesn't seem to make things work. We checked all the fuses and they all check out okay. We tried putting in a used A/C control unit from a different van that we knew worked and no change in the problem. Is there other things I should check before paying $$$ that I don't have to spend? Any help Please Thanks, Debra
Saw your post and interested in fix. Have done the Mx directive compliance. Drill 1/4" hole and blowout drain.... Seemed to work for couple weeks but wet again. Can see the leak on back side of black shroud that houses evap drain. Leaks between back of shroud low point and the firewall. Can see a foam gasket separates shroud and firewall. Could this be defective and fixed merely by a sealing bead of silicone?? Any help appreciated. Jim - Lillian AL
This rwp45- I would like to thank everyone that replied to my question. Yesterday my brother and I got into the problem and fixed it. We tooked out most of the dash until we found the problem. It was a stopped up evaperator. Thanks again this site is very helpful to us all.
:sick: Still needing any advice on A/C for 2001 Venture. No reply's yet. Am I not posting in the right forum? Any advice would greatly be appreciated. :sick:
Hmm....sounds a lot like my situation. I have a 95 Civic, roughly same mileage to your Accord and have been experiencing similar problem of late. When it is really hot outside, the problem is worse, A/C hardly works at all or if it does, it cuts out quickly and does not come back. But when it is just a little cooler, like evenings & early morning, I try A/C for the heck of it and sure enough, seems to work fine, though it will still eventually tend to disapppear for a short while (still blowing) and then usually comes back.
Seems to me that this started after I had my mechanic top up the coolant last time I was in for an oil change. Prior to that, A/C was a little weaker than optimal (hence request for top-up) but steady.
On another site, it was written that this kind of problem usually results when system freezes up because there is air/moisture in the system - does that sound like it could be the case here? I hope so, 'cuz their recommended solution, evacuating the system with a vacuum pump, is a lot more appealing than what your dealer mechanics are proposing...
This is the right place. All answers are strictly volunteer from our other users, so you have to be patient and maybe somebody'll help you out. You can also try Chevy Venture Forum
I'm converting my OL's 29, 3.8L T-bird to R135 and need to know what parts and supplies I need. Have vacuum pump and gauge set so don't need those. The compressor is in need of replacement so I'm sure I need that. I've heard that I will need to change the dryer, orfice and the condenser if it's dual pass that it can't be flushed. How do I check to see if it's dual path ?
A co-worker has a 2002 Honda CRV which suddenly kept the air vents running with hot (summer) air without cooling. She tired turning it off but the vents just kept blowing air out. She took it by a dealership and they said that the circuit board is shorted. To be precise "Heater control panel has internal problem in circuit board and will need to be replaced $571 plus tax". Does this sound right?
I have a 2000 Chevy Prizm (53K miles). The compressor doesn't kick on for several minutes, but it blows extremely hot air in the meantime. I can feel the power change slightly when it does kick on. When it does turn on, it works very well. Since we're in Phoenix, this is quite a problem. Any ideas on where to start looking? Electrical? Compressor? I know NOTHING about cars, so please SPEAK SLOWLY. Thanks.
hey guys newbie here,thats putting on a used a/c compressor,im also putting on a new dryer and hoses,but my question was on a 1991 ford mustang,with a 4 cyl. and i (think)factory installed a/c that is currently r-134,i wanted to know how much pag oil to put into the compressor before i put it on? thnx for any and all help troy
I recently heard an awful noise coming from the engine compartment when I started my engine with the a/c on. It lasted about 5 seconds, and then stopped. It sounded like something was hitting the fan. After reading an earler entry in this forum, I think it may be a/c related (slugging, liquid to compressor suction) but everything still works. I have inspected everything pretty well, and have found no damage. Any Ideas?
I have a 2003 Tahoe & have been having the same problem as you for about 2 months. Until Sept. 2 when my air conditioner quit blowing cool air. I took it to the local garage and a friend of mine told me that they have been having this problem with GM vehicles for awhile and he has been in touch with GM about it--my belt broke completely and he replaced the belt and added a pressure switch ($120)-he has a Chevy truck himself and has also been having this same problem and has tried various things including the pressure switch. He said since putting the pressure switch on his he has not had any problems for about three months, but he would not make any promises. Guess What? My belt broke again today, just two days after replacing it. I am going to take it back to him on Tues. and also contact Chevrolet--If you have any insights please let me know! :
I HAVE A 1992 BUICK THAT IS DOING THE SAME THING. IT HAS CLIMATE CONTROL.. MY HEAT AND MY A/C ONLY WORK AT TIMES. THE BLOWER DOES NOT SEEM TO BLOW HARD ENOUGH. WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS THING?
MY A/C AND HEATER DON'T SEEM TO WORK WELL. IT SEEMS TO WORK WHEN IT WANTS TO. IF THE CAR IS IN THE SHADE THE A/C WILL WORK BUT IF LEFT IN THE SUN IT WON'T. I DON'T SEEM TO BE GETTING MUCH HEAT AT ALL IN THE CAR. I'M AFRAID I'LL FREEZE IN IT THIS WINTER. ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS PROBLEM AND HOW DID YOU FIX IT?
HI , Debra. Your a/c problem is a tough one to diag. online ,but here goes. That a/c is controled by the computer by providing a ground to the a/c relay after it see's input from different sensors , a/c pressure switches ( these are in line in the a/c hoses , check to see if they are connected or loose ) two or three of these are used . Next ,coolant fans must both work ( high eng. coolant temps. a/c cuts off to protect engine )the wiring to a/c compressor & computer is good because it can be commanded on by the dealer using there tech-2 tool .But when you goto the inside a/c controls the sys. tries to protect it's self & cut a/c sys. off Look for loose wires at pass. side near rad. at a/c lines HTH
This is an ele. problem & is costly to repair. a chevy. dealer is your best bet unless you can find a good repair shop that has worked on the Geo Prizm ( you don't want them to learn on yours ) there are some common problems that cause the problem to happen only on Geo's HTH
Since you say you hear blowing air occuring in the dash--see if it's coming out the defroster vents. If it's coming out there when the setting are for other places, see if it works when on heat, heat/defrost, air conditioning, etc. If not you may ahve lost your vacuum. Look at the two small black tubes going to the vacuum storage tank on the firewall-just below the windshield wipes with the hood open. Make sure both tubes are on the quart size vacuum storage. If they are, try pulling one off right after running the motor.
You should hear air rushing in to fill the vacuum. The storage tank should hold a vacuum for maybe 20 seconds and more.
If not, check to be sure one of the tubes is connected to the air intake portion of the motor. Of you can run the motor and see if you have vacuum coming to the tank by putting a moist finger over the opening of the tube.
If you have vacuum there, then you need to take off any panels above your toes under the dash--usually two or 3 screws and get access where the glove box is. You need to check the vacuum hose as it comes into the car from that storage tank. There will be a purple tube going to the black vacuum line and a connector where you can pull them apart to check for vacuum from the motor when it's running. You need to lie on the floor of the car with your legs hanging out the passenger door.
Any questions feel free to ask. I've spent hours working on my system since Christmas.
I have a 2003 Chevy Venture, and the air conditioning blows out cold then gets warm. Sometimes it doesn't get cold at all, it just blows out warm. Other times, it's cold for 20 minutes, then warm for 20 minutes, then cold again, the warm again. The dealer first changed a leaking schraeder valve, the changed some sort of A/C switch, but it still does the same thing. Does anyone know the problem?
I have a '91 7 Series BMW that does not want to produce any cold air. I think the major problem is that it needs to be recharged however my concern is that the driver side blows hot air even when it is set to vent or at least what i think is vent. It sometimes acts as if the controls are not connected all the way and it has a mind of its own. I have been told that the vents are controlled individually with "motors" that select between heat/AC and that if they go bad then you have to remove the entire dash to get to them.
My question: What would cause the driver side to blow hot air but not the other side? Does anyone have an owner’s manual (English please) for this car?
I currently live in ITALY and have a euro spec. I would take it to a dealer but the car displays problems in German, the dealer speaks Italian, add mechanic talk in the mix and my southern vocabulary and you have a hell of a time.
Comments
Thank you
Canio in Delaware
The two vents, on either side of the steering wheel were giving off warmer air than the rest of the vents in the van. Needless to say, everyone else in the car was freezing and I was still sweating. I went to two different service stations to see if they could figure out was was wrong and they both only shook their heads in confusion.
Has anyone every had this problem or a similar one, and is there a way to fix it without costing lots of money.
Thanks;
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Make sure the drain is really open. Support front of car with a jackstand, and look up from under the firewall and find the tube where the water drains out of the case and open it with a coat hanger or similar small wire. It might be partly clogged.
On some car shows they mention companies have a foam that goes into the heater case and fills the case and puts antimold chemical all throughout the case. Certain models have had problems; they tell the mechanic exactly where to drill a hole in the case to insert the tube from the can for the foam. I don't know if something similar is available for a generic fix... You might ask at a Buick garage since that cars the same as a Century or Skylark.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks.
thanks,
MrShiftright
Host
This is the same way on all settings vent,a/c norm,a/c max,heater or defrost.
It seems that the dampers or working that i can check. Is there a main baffle for the air to enter the duct.Can some help me with this problem? Thanks
IF you have no vacuum to the inside, start with the easy things.
If I recall correctly my 93 LeSabre had a small box up behind the engine in the box that crosses under the air intakes where the fuses and power center is. The small box stored vacuum from the motor. Check the lines to and from that. Then trace the small line to the inside of the car if you have vacuum at the storage box.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I could sure use some help with this as my son is about to head for school very soon (west coast to the east coast) and we had this surprise pop up.
Thanks
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
For future people that come accross the same issue. It is the blow resistor. A $10 part. on an 01 Durango it is located under the glove box. You don't have to remove anything to get to it. There are 2 5/16 bolts that hold it into place. It will help to have a long (thin) socket to get to one of the bolts. Pop it out, replace and stick it back it.
If I can do it anyone can.
Oh and my car is a 1995 Nissan 200SX SE.
Thanks!
I looked all about the dash and under it by getting on the floor with a flashlight. I found a very small "pod" with a small pipe sticking out and not too far away discovered a very small yellow hose that looked like a piece of wire.........
BINGO..........pluged it in and it works great
Thanks again
dave
I have drilled into the evap housing and blown it out with compressed air, yet it still leaks.
I have used silicone around the area to what I would have thought would be excess, yet it still leaks.
Any thoughts?
I wish I could see a diagram of this evap housing part so I would know what I am dealing with.
Thanks for any help you can give
If it means taking out the dash, we will live with the problem and direct the air flow to passengers by adjusting sun visors.
Run motor for a short time, then pull off the vacuum lines to see if vacuum is being held in each stage of the flow of the vacuum line.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Mine doesn't seem as good as I hoped for compared to other vehicles I have owned before. But I did notice that one cool evening while driving when the outside temp was 68F that the air from the vents seemed warmer than the outside air.
So I did a quick check and measured the vent temp. With A/C off, fan set at 2 (4 Max), recir off, outside switch on, switch to upper vents, temp to coldest, windows up, idling. The test was done at about 9:00PM so the sun was not an issue. The temp out the vent was 80F after 5 minutes while the temp outside was 68F. A 12 F difference. Seems high to me. Even with the fan speed at 4 made no difference. I checked 2 other vehicles we own and found a 2F difference. Can anybody help me out? Trying to find out why the big difference in temp. Air passing through the hot engine bay before being sucked into the car? Cables or vacuum not working? Cool air mixing with hot air from the heater core? No expert when it comes to A/C but being comfortable at 68F (no A/C) or uncomfortable at 80F (no A/C) looks like I need to use the A/C even when I shouldn't have to.
Thank you
Appreciate all input I can get.
accord95
Since then, the intermittent problem became progressively worse until it didn't work more often than it did. I did some research and learned that the Blower Motor Resistor goes out fairly frequently on my model of car, but the symptoms don't seem to match. Everyone with a bad resistor says that it still works, but only at certain fan speeds (high but not low, or vice versa), but mine not does not blow at all. I decided to replace the blower motor itself. Got the new motor installed and tested it out. It now blows, but very softly -- the highest fan speed setting is a little softer than what used to be "low".
Some facts to help anyone who might be able to assist me in diagnosing the problem:
-The fan does change speeds when you move the dial -- definitely four distinct speeds,
- The little air that does make it out the vents is ice cold.
- The air does come out where you tell it to (if the dial is set to defrost, floor, mix, etc., it comes out the appropriate vents.
-Before I replaced the motor, sometimes going over a pothole or rough patch of road would bring it back to life for a few seconds.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I live in Phoenix, and it is HOT.
The blower does work but it blows hot air. The dealership said the freon was charged and no leaks. If they by-passed the main A/C control unit the compressor would kick in but it would only kick in if they by-passed the main control unit. When I push the A/C button the light come on but it doesn't seem to make things work. We checked all the fuses and they all check out okay. We tried putting in a used A/C control unit from a different van that we knew worked and no change in the problem. Is there other things I should check before paying $$$ that I don't have to spend? Any help
I also would like to see this.
Pls advise
Yesterday my brother and I got into the problem and fixed it. We tooked out most of the dash until we found the problem.
It was a stopped up evaperator.
Thanks again this site is very helpful to us all.
Hmm....sounds a lot like my situation. I have a 95 Civic, roughly same mileage to your Accord and have been experiencing similar problem of late. When it is really hot outside, the problem is worse, A/C hardly works at all or if it does, it cuts out quickly and does not come back. But when it is just a little cooler, like evenings & early morning, I try A/C for the heck of it and sure enough, seems to work fine, though it will still eventually tend to disapppear for a short while (still blowing) and then usually comes back.
Seems to me that this started after I had my mechanic top up the coolant last time I was in for an oil change. Prior to that, A/C was a little weaker than optimal (hence request for top-up) but steady.
On another site, it was written that this kind of problem usually results when system freezes up because there is air/moisture in the system - does that sound like it could be the case here? I hope so, 'cuz their recommended solution, evacuating the system with a vacuum pump, is a lot more appealing than what your dealer mechanics are proposing...
Regards,
Ken
Host
Your a/c problem is a tough one to diag. online ,but here goes.
That a/c is controled by the computer by providing a ground to the a/c relay
after it see's input from different sensors , a/c pressure switches ( these are in line
in the a/c hoses , check to see if they are connected or loose ) two or three of these are used . Next ,coolant fans must both work ( high eng. coolant temps. a/c
cuts off to protect engine )the wiring to a/c compressor & computer is good because it can be commanded on by the dealer using there tech-2 tool .But when
you goto the inside a/c controls the sys. tries to protect it's self & cut a/c sys. off
Look for loose wires at pass. side near rad. at a/c lines HTH
( you don't want them to learn on yours ) there are some common problems that
cause the problem to happen only on Geo's HTH
Don't post in CAPS LOCK-- 95% of all users will ignore your posts, they are too hard to read.
Never post your e-mail address in the body of the text as it can be read by "spiders" and you'll get tons of spam.
MrShiftright
Host
I have a buick with climate control that is doing the same thing. Did you ever get a solution to that problem?
Natalie
Sorry for posting my other posts in CAPS..........i didn't know
You should hear air rushing in to fill the vacuum. The storage tank should hold a vacuum for maybe 20 seconds and more.
If not, check to be sure one of the tubes is connected to the air intake portion of the motor. Of you can run the motor and see if you have vacuum coming to the tank by putting a moist finger over the opening of the tube.
If you have vacuum there, then you need to take off any panels above your toes under the dash--usually two or 3 screws and get access where the glove box is. You need to check the vacuum hose as it comes into the car from that storage tank. There will be a purple tube going to the black vacuum line and a connector where you can pull them apart to check for vacuum from the motor when it's running. You need to lie on the floor of the car with your legs hanging out the passenger door.
Any questions feel free to ask. I've spent hours working on my system since Christmas.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The dealer first changed a leaking schraeder valve, the changed some sort of A/C switch, but it still does the same thing. Does anyone know the problem?
My question: What would cause the driver side to blow hot air but not the other side? Does anyone have an owner’s manual (English please) for this car?
I currently live in ITALY and have a euro spec. I would take it to a dealer but the car displays problems in German, the dealer speaks Italian, add mechanic talk in the mix and my southern vocabulary and you have a hell of a time.
Thanks