Well this is the difference between a great dealer and a not so great dealer. Maybe you could drop the owner of the business a note and tell him what a loyal customer you are. He is probably unaware of this entire situation; otherwise, if they want to be hard nosed about it, a warranty is a warranty.
You have to remember that the dealer is often squeezed by the factory. They aren't always brothers by any means. So if the factory won't help, then the dealer has to eat it, and he might be interested in good will but not to the tune of some $600 worth of good will.
I am about to take my Town and Country van to be fixed (hopefully), but I'd like to be educated ahead of time! The front a/c works fine, but the rear a/c only blows intermittently. One never knows when it will come on and when it won't. When it is on, it does cool. I assume this is an electrical problem, although not a fuse, since it does work SOME of the time. Can you help me know what I need to ask the mechanic to check first?
Strange as it seems, the sticking gas pedal may very likely be due to a throttle issue. I've got a Nissan Pathfinder and my gas pedal stuck, too. What was happening was gum and varnish buildup around the butterfly valve in the air intake. When you step on the gas, especially first thing in the morning, the butterfly valve has to break free from the buidup. But rather than pay the money Nissan wanted, I searched the 'net and found a site that said exactly what to do for a Pathfinder with pictures (sorry, I couldn't find the site again).
I bought a can of Fuel Injection Air Intake Cleaner at Pep Boys, took off the air intake duct, and sprayed the cleaner while working the butterfly valve back and forth by hand. Worked like a charm and it saved me $300.
I have read all over this board about the rear A/c not working but no real fix. My front A/c only works on High (#4) and #1,#2 and #3 only run the front fan on low speed. Now I read that the problem may be in the front fan relay? Not sure still. Any Ideas?
My front air conditioning does not blow cold air most of the time, but the rear a/c is always cold. Of course every time I take it to my mechanic the front a/c works. My mechanic can not find anything wrong with the system.
my 97 buick park ave blows cold air on the pass. side and cool air on the driver side, I checked the actuator and it is closing the vent all the way but still only cool air what the heck is happenign?
I have a 96 Honda Accord that is putting out low cooling. I took it to a local mechanic and was quoted $1200.00 to change compressor. I just bought a 134a kit and added 1 can. Readings all are good as far as pressure. Still low cooling. Anything else I can check before having the compressor changed?
The rear a/c blows hot air only - does anyone have any idea what might cause this. Last Fall, I had to replace a blower resistor fan because the front heating system would not work on speeds 1 and 2. The front a/c is working fine.
I have a 1999 Dodge Caravan. The air conditioner blows hot air for about 10 minutes before cold air starts to come out the evaporatror and expansion valve has been replaced by a certified mechanic we cannot find what causes this problem when I have driven for about 5 or 10 miles the thermonter reads 42 degrees cold.
The rear air conditioning on my 2000 venture van is blowing hot air - any idea what the problem could be? Mileage is under 88,000 miles. I had a 1997 venture van that I loved - this 2000 venture van has too many problems to list here; some examples are the fuel gauge does not work; service engine soon light pops on intermittently; blower resistor fan in front had to be replaced; i could go on and on.
I have a 1998 JGL and have a problem with my AC. I am not exactly sure what is going on. When turned on, the air gets cool, but NOT anywhere near cold. The air is actually colder when it is not on Recycle. I have checked the radon level and it is fine, coolent is fine, and I replaced the thermostat. None of this helps. I have been reading this stuff about the vacuum. Could this be the problem?
Yea, it says I'm Dodge Guy, but at 2.27/gal, my 3/4 ton global warmer got waaaay too thirsty to commute the 50 mile round trip to work. I bought a 93 Acura in decent shape with 195k on it. Decent(little) vehicle, but the A/C is acting wierd. It runs for about 10-15 minutes, then gradually gets warmer. It was converted to 134a by the previous owner. When I first noticed it, I assumed it was low and put one can of 134a in it. It didn't do anything different. I ran it home with the A/C on, and popped the hood. The compressor was still running. I turned it off, the compressor stopped, turned it on, it came back on, but no cold air. My pressure gauges are set for R12, but I will pick up adapters for them this weekend so I can test the pressure in the system. In the meantime, I've never experienced a situation where the compressor was still running without cold air and/or no nasty noises. So does anyone have any ideas? What is the correct high/low pressure and refrigerant capacity for this car? I'm really hesitant to put a lot of money in the vehicle due to it's age and miles on it. Thank in advance...
Could be icing up, temperature sensor not working? Also the dissicant bag from the dryer burst and has lunched the expansion valve? You may need to disconnect a line and inspect for debris.
I'm going to have to do some research. Luckily, one of the original owners bought the two volume factory repair manual, which will at least show me where everything is. I thought it may have something to do with the car's temp, so today I left the air off until about half way home, but it again worked for about ten-fifteen minutes befor gradually dropping off.. I'll get into it this weekend...
If this car has climate control, then my first suspect would be the recirculate/fresh air switch over valve which is vacuum operated I'm sure (or the controller if it actually does the vacuum switching). It's almost universal for climate control to be in the recirc or max mode when first turned on, and it switches over to fresh air when the sensors detect the temperature near or at your setting. If the valve is leaky then you are losing vacuum and this could cause it to shut down. Your symptoms support this. Your lucky to have the factory manual, it will be a great help.
I have a 96 Caravan. The AC blows warm air when it is in sitting in traffic or idle, and it blow cool air whenever it is moving - either city driving or on the freeway.
Re: 95 Cutlass Ciera 3.1 v-6. Factory air 134-a. Needs recharge. Compressor doesn't engage when system is turned on. I imagine low pressure switch prevents this. Question: when I try to recharge system, will pressure from 134-a recharge can cause enough in-line pressure to disengage low pressure switch, ie allow compressor to turn back on so refrigerant can be received into system? Or is there a different way to activate compressor? I would hate to buy a recharge kit, only to find I can't get the compressor to turn on. Thanks!
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
i need to put a small charge of r134 into my a/c system but i cant find the low end valve. i did my neon today but can not find the low end valve on the expedition. can anyone help me
you need a pressure temp chart first. if your low side pressure is not corrosponding to approx.20 dgs higher than evap temp there is a problem whith one of the components or non condensables in sys,(air or moisture). if this is the case usually the pressures are 15lbs higher than normal.
got a '96 ply. grand voyager.I am trying to recharge the ac and noticed that the ac does not kick in with the switch.checked the mini-fuse(15a) it was blown,replaced it and it blew.Any suggestions? :confuse:
Unplug the connector from the compressor clutch and try it again. If the fuse still blows, look for a short to ground in the clutch power wire. If the fuse doesn't blow, plug the connector back in. If the fuse now blows, the compressor clutch coil is probably damaged.
Hello, I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma with the 4 cylinder engine flex fuel option. The problem that I am having is the following; If I put the ac switch on any of these selections; max a/c, a/c, symbol that shows air being directed to top and bottom of dash, I will hear a noise that sounds like someone shaking a can of bb's. If I put the same swithch in any other position besides off, I still here the noise(bb's being shaken in a can), but not as intense. This truck has 105,00 miles on it, and everything is all original equipment. My personal feeling is that its the bearing within the compressor. If I disconnect the wire going to the compressor/clutch assm, I can still hear the noise, but only a little. In all cases the noise is more prevalent at low rpm/idle than at any other rpm.
How can I be sure it is the bearing in the compressor? If it is the bearing in the compressor, could I fix it myself, or should I purchase a remanufactured/new compressor? New/remanufactured compressors go for $350.00 and up for this truck, so I want to try and do as much of the work myself.
Also, I have been having to add coolent to the overfill tank. I have topped the radiator off up to the cap. I only had to add a little bit of 50/50 dex-cool/water mixture once about a week ago. Every couple of days now though, I will have to add some coolent to the overfil tank. The ac still blows cool air at all speeds of the blower motor, but I think its just a matter of time before that bearing(if thats what it is) goes up. As far as how much I have to fill the overfill tank. I have a level in the overfil tank for hot and one for cold. I usually fill it up to the cold level in the overfil tank, and then check it a day or so later. I have been keeping my eye on the temp gauge, and it has been right at about 190 degrees. Just got back from a 140 mile trip yesterday, and it ran fine with the exception of the above problem.
In any event, all recommendations/ideas for troubleshooting this problem would certainly be appreciated.
so what's the problem? It's going to take a while for the 'freon' to start activating, coil to cool off, and the existing warm air to be purged from the plenum. Wish I had 43* air coming from my vents.
Open your windows for the first couple minutes to let the hot air out.
Doesn't matter where I set the dial: vent, def, floor, I don't get any air. The blower is working, but just a little air comes out of the defrost. Must be a stuck flapper. How do I get at it, or check it? Lack of air stays the same whether I'm asking for cold or heat.
Seperate problem; I only get heat in the back half of the van, even in MAX AIR' setting on the front panel.
I have a '93 Toyota Corolla and mice built a nest in the heating/AC vents. I was able to clear much of it. However, I still get a stench when fresh air is let in. I don't get the stench when running the A/C or heat on recirculate.
I was able to put a vacuum cleaner hose down fairly far into the vents. However, I suspect that there is a little bit of the nest remaining deep in the vents.
Anyone know how to clean that out without removing the dashboard? Can I go through the fresh air intake? If so, anyone know where the fresh air intake is (I have not been able to find it)?
Would really appreciate guidance before I pull the dashboard off to find the thing.
fresh air intake is under the vented metal cowl piece, under your windshield wipers. You take off the wiper blades, unscrew the cowl, pry it up and you should see the intake vent down there. Nice place for mice actually.
Hi, I would really appreciate someone's help. This is driving me crazy, and, as I live in Europe but have an American car (Chrysler Vision), there are not many repair shops that are familiar with the car. Nobody has been able to solve my problem.
In a nutshell, the AC usually works when the weather is no warmer than about 70 degrees F. In the 80s, it will NEVER work, in the 60s it will work most of the time.
I have had the system refilled (900 grams). The problem lies in the compressor clutch not engaging.
The compressor itself and the AC system works fine IF the clutch decides to engage! If I connect the clutch circuit directly with a jumper lead everything is fine.
There is one other strange symptom which might have something to do with the problem. The high speed radiator fan should cycle on and off when the AC is switched off. However for some months, it always comes on as soon as I start the engine (even in the winter) and stays on full speed all the time.
All relays and fuses seem to be OK and engine temperature is fine whatever the weather. The Climate control shows no error codes. The engine control systems error codes show 33 and 35 (AC clutch relay, Low speed radiator fan relay), but the relays themselves seem to be fine.
I would really appreciate a fast reply from somebody as the only Chrysler dealer near here is closing down for a month's holiday next week, and if I have to see him, I'll have to be quick!
A new development in my mysterious AC problem. The car seems to think that the outside air is always at 61F (16C) when, for example, at this very moment it is 25C. The AC compressor still does not engage.
This temperature anomaly never happened before: the temperature indication on the ceiling of the cabin has always been correct.
Last week, I had Chrysler check the outside temperature sensor at the front of the car, just in front of the AC condenser. That sensor was not faulty. Is there another one somewhere?
Why not have them bypass that sensor and see how that works temporarily? See if it's the sensor or whatever control unit reads the sensors information.
My Mustang has a leak somewhere in the a/c system. I have been told it has to be retrofitted to R134 first and then they look for the leak. I live in Southern California and need help finding a place that sees a woman who doesn't know a thing about cars and try to rip her off. Any ideas or suggestions?
Well it might not be a bad idea to retrofit but I don't believe there is any law about it. You don't "have to" in San Francisco, I do know that much. You could call California air resources board (CARB) in Sacramento and find out for sure but I think it's just a sales pitch. R12 (the old freon) is expensive however and not all shops carry it.
If you plan to keep the car a long time into the future it might not be a bad idea to convert. You could also call an AC speciality shop, that only works on AC system and see what they say.
You don't "have to" retrofit it. The law allows repairs on R12 systems as long as the EPA guidelines are followed. It's your decision to convert it or not, I personally wouldn't recommend it except for classic/collectible cars, which can justify the cost. There's still plenty of R12 around, but like any commodity that isn't made anymore, the price is creeping up. I'm just guessing here but more than likely your compressor is bad and possibly one or more hoses. I would figure on $1000 at a minimum for repairs, but you may get lucky and get away for less. If you are close to Knotts Berry Farm you might try Accurate Radiator on Lincoln Ave, they have been good in the past.
I purchased this car new 2005 model. The problem is, the a/c seems to not really get the car cool enough inside, Yes its a black car, Ive owned lots of black cars and never had this problem. What happens is the compressor kicks on and the a/c works, but the vent temp never really gets below 47, sometimes 49. So I took it back to the dealer 3 times, they say it meets fact specs at 47.Even in the Recirc mode. I just cant believe that a NEW car doesnt have effiecient a/c.It is a SUZUKI Reno and I love everything else about this car. Once in a blue moon the a/c does get a little colder, but its intermittant ( YES the Compressor is still engaged). The dealer has evacuated the system made sure it met hi and low side specs, it was overcharged from the factory they said and they put the correct amount in it last time and it cooled initially, but has since gotten a little bit less colder. Could the expansion valve have been damaged?? this a/c seems to be colder after I spray the evaporater finns through the front grill (at the local hand car wash). Actually it was 40 the other day after I did this.. this is the screwiest thing ive seen,,Now its back around 49 again! help!!
My 2002 Expedition blows great a/c from the dash, but only outside air in the rear, but the rear does blow. Any suggestions of how to get the rear to blow the a/c air as well. I know there are rear controls and no matter what I turn, it only blows outside air. It's getting too hot here in California to not have the rear blowing cold air when passengers are in the car. We get real cold air in the front only. Please help me. Blair
HI dudes can some one here help??. iv got problems with my bmw 328ci. The ac working getting nice and cold but i can not control it if i put it on auto it goes up on to full and even when i turn off the auto and put it on man it does the same. It showing on the dash its down on low but the fan is very fast still and so i have to turn it off othewise its to cold sa any body had this problem. please help.
Sounds like some kind of ducting problem, where a flap is not being activated to direct AC to the rear....if you had a diagram of how the ducting works on this vehicle this would tell you where to look.
I have a 1994 Honda Civic EX and the A/C works fine 1st thing in the morning but doesn't in the afternoon when it gets hot outside. I replaced the Compressor Clutch Coil and checked everything under the hood using the Honda manual flo-chart. The system is fully charged and all wiring under the hood checked out along with the relays and pressure switch. If anyone has any suggestions on what it could be I would really appreciate it. I know that the ignition switch is glitchy because somethimes it will not start and I have to push in harder while turning the key then it starts fine. It's a great little car I just need to figure out the A/C ?
I recently bought a 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport and during the test drive I tried the A/C out to make sure it worked and it blew cold and all. I tried to get the A/C to work recently and it only blew hot. I filled the compressor with free-on and all. I looked under the hood and the clutch for the ac was not turning or even moving so i ran a wire from the battery to the clutch switch and the clutch began to turn and the A/C blew cold. What could the problem be? Please help me it is very hot!
I thought of that and I did confirm that when the a/c stops cooling the compressor is not running. If I put 12 volts to the red wire on the clutch coil and make sure the black wire is grounded shouldn't that engage the clutch even if the engine if off ? I am wondering that if that is the case maybe the new clutch coil I installed is defective. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks, wft
Does the 1994 Honda Civic EX have any sensors on or connected to the Evaporator core or is it just the expansion valve inside and the pressure switch and relay outside ? I evacuated the a/c and re charged with the correct amount of R134 and during the day when it is hot the a/c stops cooling but in the morning it seems to do ok. Any ideas, If I wasn't already losing my hair this would surely start it.. Thanks, wft
It turns out that I have a hole in my condenser. Not large, but I was losing freon. The AC is still cooling, but because it only had little freon in it, it can only cool so much.
During cold weather, the AC is just blowing air that is slightly cooled by the AC. Thus is seemed that the the AC is working. In hot weather, the AC just can't cool the car enough to make a difference so it seems that is is not working.
Check also if you have moisture in the lines. With moisture, it will seem that you have freon because the pressure will be OK or slightly high.
Comments
You have to remember that the dealer is often squeezed by the factory. They aren't always brothers by any means. So if the factory won't help, then the dealer has to eat it, and he might be interested in good will but not to the tune of some $600 worth of good will.
I bought a can of Fuel Injection Air Intake Cleaner at Pep Boys, took off the air intake duct, and sprayed the cleaner while working the butterfly valve back and forth by hand. Worked like a charm and it saved me $300.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
if your low side pressure is not corrosponding to approx.20 dgs higher than evap temp there is a problem whith one of the components or non condensables in sys,(air or moisture). if this is the case usually the pressures are 15lbs higher than normal.
The problem that I am having is the following; If I put the ac switch on any of these selections; max a/c, a/c, symbol that shows air being directed to top and bottom of dash, I will hear a noise that sounds like someone shaking a can of bb's. If I put the same swithch in any other position besides off, I still here the noise(bb's being shaken in a can), but not as intense. This truck has 105,00 miles on it, and everything is all original equipment.
My personal feeling is that its the bearing within the compressor. If I disconnect the wire going to the compressor/clutch assm, I can still hear the noise, but only a little. In all cases the noise is more prevalent at low rpm/idle than at any other rpm.
How can I be sure it is the bearing in the compressor?
If it is the bearing in the compressor, could I fix it myself, or should I purchase a remanufactured/new compressor?
New/remanufactured compressors go for $350.00 and up for this truck, so I want to try and do as much of the work myself.
Also, I have been having to add coolent to the overfill tank. I have topped the radiator off up to the cap. I only had to add a little bit of 50/50 dex-cool/water mixture once about a week ago. Every couple of days now though, I will have to add some coolent to the overfil tank. The ac still blows cool air at all speeds of the blower motor, but I think its just a matter of time before that bearing(if thats what it is) goes up. As far as how much I have to fill the overfill tank. I have a level in the overfil tank for hot and one for cold. I usually fill it up to the cold level in the overfil tank, and then check it a day or so later. I have been keeping my eye on the temp gauge, and it has been right at about 190 degrees. Just got back from a 140 mile trip yesterday, and it ran fine with the exception of the above problem.
In any event, all recommendations/ideas for troubleshooting this problem would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert.
Salisbury, Md.
Open your windows for the first couple minutes to let the hot air out.
Seperate problem; I only get heat in the back half of the van, even in MAX AIR' setting on the front panel.
I was able to put a vacuum cleaner hose down fairly far into the vents. However, I suspect that there is a little bit of the nest remaining deep in the vents.
Anyone know how to clean that out without removing the dashboard? Can I go through the fresh air intake? If so, anyone know where the fresh air intake is (I have not been able to find it)?
Would really appreciate guidance before I pull the dashboard off to find the thing.
I would really appreciate someone's help. This is driving me crazy, and, as I live in Europe but have an American car (Chrysler Vision), there are not many repair shops that are familiar with the car. Nobody has been able to solve my problem.
In a nutshell, the AC usually works when the weather is no warmer than about 70 degrees F. In the 80s, it will NEVER work, in the 60s it will work most of the time.
I have had the system refilled (900 grams). The problem lies in the compressor clutch not engaging.
The compressor itself and the AC system works fine IF the clutch decides to engage! If I connect the clutch circuit directly with a jumper lead everything is fine.
There is one other strange symptom which might have something to do with the problem. The high speed radiator fan should cycle on and off when the AC is switched off. However for some months, it always comes on as soon as I start the engine (even in the winter) and stays on full speed all the time.
All relays and fuses seem to be OK and engine temperature is fine whatever the weather. The Climate control shows no error codes. The engine control systems error codes show 33 and 35 (AC clutch relay, Low speed radiator fan relay), but the relays themselves seem to be fine.
I would really appreciate a fast reply from somebody as the only Chrysler dealer near here is closing down for a month's holiday next week, and if I have to see him, I'll have to be quick!
Many thanks in advance
John
A new development in my mysterious AC problem. The car seems to think that the outside air is always at 61F (16C) when, for example, at this very moment it is 25C. The AC compressor still does not engage.
This temperature anomaly never happened before: the temperature indication on the ceiling of the cabin has always been correct.
Last week, I had Chrysler check the outside temperature sensor at the front of the car, just in front of the AC condenser. That sensor was not faulty. Is there another one somewhere?
Cheers
John
Actually, they tried a new sensor in its place. It made no difference so they put mine back.
Incidentally, my temperature reading on the overhead display is now back to normal, but the AC clutch is not even engaging at 70F.
John
If you plan to keep the car a long time into the future it might not be a bad idea to convert. You could also call an AC speciality shop, that only works on AC system and see what they say.
Please help me. Blair
I, am baffled!
Cheers
John
I replaced the Compressor Clutch Coil and checked everything under the hood using the Honda manual flo-chart.
The system is fully charged and all wiring under the hood checked out along with the relays and pressure switch.
If anyone has any suggestions on what it could be I would really appreciate it.
I know that the ignition switch is glitchy because somethimes it will not start and I have to push in harder while turning the key then it starts fine.
It's a great little car I just need to figure out the A/C ?
If I put 12 volts to the red wire on the clutch coil and make sure the black wire is grounded shouldn't that engage the clutch even if the engine if off ?
I am wondering that if that is the case maybe the new clutch coil I installed is
defective. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
wft
I evacuated the a/c and re charged with the correct amount of R134 and during the day when it is hot the a/c stops cooling but in the morning it seems to do ok.
Any ideas, If I wasn't already losing my hair this would surely start it..
Thanks,
wft
:confuse:
trb@ackits.com
It turns out that I have a hole in my condenser. Not large, but I was losing freon. The AC is still cooling, but because it only had little freon in it, it can only cool so much.
During cold weather, the AC is just blowing air that is slightly cooled by the AC. Thus is seemed that the the AC is working. In hot weather, the AC just can't cool the car enough to make a difference so it seems that is is not working.
Check also if you have moisture in the lines. With moisture, it will seem that you have freon because the pressure will be OK or slightly high.