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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Care to elaborate on the latter reason? I'm thinking of trying some with my upcoming oil change.

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    A guy in CT or RI just got busted by a car rental company for doing 90mph 3x on a trip. I'll have to try to dig up the link, but they charged him $150 for each occurance. There was a clause in the contract that stated there was a GPS unit on board that beamed back speed and location data to the home office. He's suing the rental company...

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Because Colin is a John Force fan! :-p

    Not to mention that Syntec beats other simarly priced synthetics in various areas. Viscosity at 100 C for example (10W30).
    Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Ken, I have no doubt that AMSOil Series 2000 and Redline are both better than Castrol Syntec but I don't think it's appropriate for a 165HP 2.5L that revs to ... 6500 in your case. The $8.99 - 10.99 a quart cost is unjustified for this application.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I see. How about Syntec vs. the ever-popular Mobil 1? Sorry to re-hash a topic that might have already been covered.

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I am using Mobil 1 currently, but am curious of the other alternatives. My dealer put Valvoline Synthetic in my Trooper and when I switched from that to Mobil 1 there was a drop in running temp, as well as a smoother running engine.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    10W30 Syntec viscosity @ 100C = 11.5 (the thicker, the better)
    10w30 M1 = 10

    Although for 5W30 the M1 is slightly better - 10 vs 9.8.
    I've used M1 5W30 in my wife's OB and had some leaks around the oil pan gasket. Also seems quieter/smoother with the Syntec (that could also be because it's more broken in now). They're both very good and it probably comes down to brand loyalty.
    Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Colin: you could say the same about Syntec vs. dino oil. ;-)

    OK, unless you autocross.

    -juice
  • jresjres Member Posts: 69
    Wasn't there a syntec that was conventional oil/synthetic blend, or something along that line. I know there is currently a Castrol full synthetic but isn't there one that had problems with deceptive advertising? The name sounded like a synthetic but it really wasn't if you read the label.

    JR
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Syntec is technically a mineral basestock but it was found in court to be 'sufficiently processed' to qualify as a 'synthetic'. I have no idea what sort of prodding and poking they do to it, but it does not come out of engine looking or feeling anything like standard mineral oil does.

    -Colin
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    Just to clarify Colin's post, it is true that the "speed" is captured by the ECU, but not the "highest" speed or any of that neat blackbox type of thing. If there is a MIL (or CEL if you prefer), the codes will indicate at what speed the vehicle was going when the code was picked up. But if you do not have a MIL situation, it will not "record" speed.

    I can see the good and bad in being able to record the highest speed. I'd love it for tracking my kids when the younger one's start driving, but I'm not sure how I would feel about anyone tracking mine. Also, the expense of the technology would be really high but it would help in accident investigations (like with airlines).

    Patti
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    I'd bring it into the dealer. It could very well be that the computer picked up something that it "learned" (I'm starting to hate quotes but...)and some shifting sequences could be sending it a bad signal. The dealer may be able to reproduce it if they drive with you. If you need help, make sure you call us.

    Patti
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Well I got my full size spare together. Decided on a OEM alloy rim from Liberty Subaru for $160 ($230 list) and a new RE92 from a local tire shop for $120 (mounted, balanced and tax). Sounds a lot when I look at it now but I will feel better on the next big month+ road trip. We travel mostly 2 lane in the middle of nowhere. Now I wont have worry about a dinky donut doing damage to my driveline while frantically hunting for a tire shop. It fits great in the tire well. Just need an inch of foam or perhaps wood blocks to fill the gap under the cover.

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Use foam - I bet it'll be quieter (and lighter).

    -juice
  • jresjres Member Posts: 69
    The foam is probably a good idea, as juice said it'll be quieter, but I'd recommend a high density/low porosity foam or even styrofoam so that it won't absorb/hold moisture and other corrosion enhancers.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Styrofoam can squeek, though. I hate squeeks/rattles.

    -juice
  • dan2001dan2001 Member Posts: 17
    Since I have learned how important maintaining appropriate PSI is I am looking for a quality tire pressure gauge. Any suggestions?
    Thanks, Dan
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I got one from Pep Boys. It's a brass circular guage, very sturdy and easy to use. Kind of looks like a stop watch.

    Though there are even better ones with a bleeder valve, so you can release pressure while still measuring the PSI. Try your local auto parts supplier, but hold out for a good one.

    -juice

    PS Check the spare! My Miata's spare was completely flat when I bought the car (used).
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Yes, a circular analog gauge is probably the easiest to use. In addition to a bleeder valve, try to find one with a flexible hose on the end so you can position the gauge towards you -- makes reading the pressure easier.

    Ken
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Folks,

    I like the Idea of the Fumotovalve. But does it fit the 01' Outback? As I remember, the drain plug fits snugly through the plastic covering. I don't see that it would have room for the little latch on the side. Any help on this would be great.

    Also, any news on Darlene??
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Now that I think of it, the threaded portion of the valve will protrude in the interior so that not all the oil will drain and the residues will always remain on the pan. I am not so convinced it is a great idea.

    Any comments?
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    I have had this valve on my Forester for about three years now and its the greatest thing for changing you oil. Just unlock the spring loaded lever and twist and the oil comes out in a nice stream. I was worried about the amount of oil left in the pan as well. The length of threads on the valve is no longer than the stock drain bolt. Then to settle my curiosity I removed the valve the next oil change after about an hour of draining the oil and maybe about 2oz came out. I'm sure that this is insignificant as to the amount oil oil that is left in engine oil sleeves.
    this is a well manufactured piece with a stainless steel ball within a ceramic socket. I have them on all my vehicles as well as on my kids cars.
  • vincer2vincer2 Member Posts: 97
    I installed the valve on my 2000 OB and it fits just fine. The oil also drains clear of all parts of the undercarriage.

    Vince
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Folks,

    Do you have the one with the nipple or just the regular one. Which is better? I realize that I still have to use the drain pan for the filter. Thanx a lot for the feed back! Also is the only place to buy this thing online? Does Pep Boys carry it? Thanx
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hey Anibal, long time no see. Join the chat tonight?

    You could probably cut a hole in that plastic cover if you need more clearance. I cut a similar hole to access the oil filter on my Forester - tin snips cut through the plastic easy as pie.

    My concern would be that those last 2 ounces were the dirtiest. If your interval is shorter than the 7500 miles Subaru requires, then you should be fine.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Hey,

    I have been super busy. I don't even drive my OB much. Working like crazy. Juice I think I will do oil every 3K. I am not worried about 2oz. It only the dirtiest if you change oil after it sits for a long time. My thinking is with valve you can change even when oil is warm or hot so it will drain better. I may do just that, cut a hole in the plastic. But, I think there are even guards along the sides.... Doable. Anything can be retrofitted.....

    Hey, any word on Darlene?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm trying to get some parts from her, but her boss still owes UPS some money, so her hands are tied.

    When they are back in bid-ness I'll let everyone know.

    Yeah, with a 3k interval you'll be fine. I bet the oil's clear for the first couple of changes, even.

    -juice
  • vincer2vincer2 Member Posts: 97
    Anibal,

    The Fumotovalve I installed does not have the nipple.

    Vince
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    Mine is without the nipple though there there is plenty of clearence from the ground to the valve. As for as cutting a hole into the shroud I didn't want to do that. I don't mind taking it off to inspect the underside of the engine being I'm mechaniclly anal about my cars(meaning I spend more time in the garage) . Also with the oil beig hot it really shoots out of the valve so if you wanted to cut through the shroud get the one with the nipple then you could attach a hose to the nipple. Again as for the oil remaining in the bottom of the pan there is probably just as much left in the oil sleeves in the engine and if you change at 3000 miles it shouldn't be a problem the recommended 7500 for an oil change using dino oil is just to long for my taste. the only place you can get it right now is at their web site. Pep Boys or other auto parts places don't carry them as of yet. Though they have been around for years.
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    Mine is without the nipple though there there is plenty of clearence from the ground to the valve if you wanted that one. As for as cutting a hole into the shroud I didn't want to do that. I don't mind taking it off to inspect the underside of the engine being I'm mechaniclly anal about my cars(meaning I spend more time in the garage) . Also with the oil beig hot it really shoots out of the valve so if you wanted to cut through the shroud get the one with the nipple then you could attach a hose to the nipple. Again as for the oil remaining in the bottom of the pan there is probably just as much left in the oil sleeves in the engine and if you change at 3000 miles it shouldn't be a problem the recommended 7500 for an oil change using dino oil is just to long for my taste. the only place you can get it right now is at their web site. Pep Boys or other auto parts places don't carry them as of yet. Though they have been around for years.
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I have 2 questions for you folks concerning my 2000 OB 5spd.
    First- Sometimes when I am sitting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes, I feel the pedal depress an extra little bit. The brakes are fine, and I had the dealer take a look at it. They tried bleeding the brake line a little, but it still occasionally happens.

    Second- The other night when I was riding in the car, I started to hear something like a groan coming from the vents. Its not very loud, but it is annoying.

    Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Should I be worried regarding the brakes?

    TIA
    Mark
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    Sometimes that brake symptom can be a bad master cylinder. I would have them check it again.

    Regards,
    Frank
  • rochcomrochcom Member Posts: 247
    A really great but inexpensive gauge is one sold by Brookstone (the upscale gadget stores and catalog house). It is round, easy to read, accurate (according to Consumer Reports) and costs $10 US. There is also a version with a short hose attached for hard to reach places that costs afew dollars more. The only bad part is that the rubber seals have a somewhat strong odor that will make you want to keep it somewhere other than in the door pocket.


    http://www.brookstone.com

  • 1subydown1togo1subydown1togo Member Posts: 348
    Does anyone have the Accutire digital guage, or other digital guage..are they more accurate?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    have had one for a year, seems as "accurate" as my mechanical Brookstone one, though I honestly haven't compared them to a officially calibrated gauge! They gotta be better than anything at a gas station though!
    I worry about how robust the digital ones are though, the Brookstone has been abused for several years without any signs of problems.I keep the accutire at home, the other gets thrown into the car.
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    I'm seeking opinions on aftermarket rustproofing. Has anyone used "Krown Rustproofing?" If so, how were the results. Also, I've been told that to properly apply the product, holes have to be drilled into the vehicle. I'm concerned about rusting from these holes.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Subaru recommends against it. Most of the panels are galvanized steel, so rust should be less of a concern.

    -juice
  • yellowmercyellowmerc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Forester with a problematic right rear tire. I have had the alignment checked and two rotations done in 16000 miles. I have also checked the wheel bearings. Any suggestion would be appreciated
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You're probably still covered under the 1 year adjustment period, so I'd ask the dealer to check on the alignment again.

    But by now, the tire itself is unbalanced, since the wear is uneven. I'd ask for 2 new rear tires.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    I could not resist to ordering any invention that can reduce my work. I ordered the fumoto valve with the nipple. maybe I can eliminate the need for the drip pan if I can figure a way to not spill any oil when removing the oil filter. I like the idea of poking a hole in the bottom before removing it. But that means I still need the drip pan. Darn!!! Any ideas. I am planning to use a little tube with the fumoto valve to drain that oil directly into the milk gallon to get recycled. But I think the filter will still be messy! Let's get ideas...
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    How about a funnel and jug combo under the filter?

    bit
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I just put up with the oil dripping down the sides of the filter. I put my catch pan on something to get it right under the filter and I just unscrew it. Wearing a pair of disposable latex gloves helps too.

    My wife's Jetta has a separate drain just for the oil filter canister. Too bad they don't do something like that for our Subies.

    Ken
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    I have had an Accutire guage for about 5 years with no issues. I also have several stick guages that I got from Snap-On more than 12 years ago. All of these including the Accutire read within 1 lb. of each other.

    Regards,
    Frank
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Any word on the pinging issues? Some other SIA vehicles are having similar problems. Could they be related? My Rodeo people have been posting about pinging problems. Some of them have solved the problems by dumping in techron in the tank, but others either haven't tried or weren't successful.

    -mike
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I usually add a bottle right around oil change time in both of our vehicles - maybe that's why I haven't had experienced the ping issue.

    -Brian
  • russ9406russ9406 Member Posts: 30
    On my 2001 Forester S+ I picked up a nail, the tires have 7,800 miles, on them. The repair shop said the the location was not very good for repairing, it was on the outer edge of the tread. They suggested getting a new tire. I suggested taking the spare and remounting it on to the alloy rim and putting the repaired tire on the steel rim as a spare. They said that as a spare it would be ok, just not to use it for any length of time.

    Question: Since the spare is new vs. the on car tires having 7,800 miles Should I be concerned with tire size and the AWD? Should I consider getting a new spare?

    Russ
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Measure the circumference and compare it to the tires on car. Should be no more than 1/4 inch difference.

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    7800 miles is almost new, so you'll be fine unless there is an unusual amount of wear on the others.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Blitz has a wide range of oil drain pans with covers.

    http://www.blitzusa.com/auto_products_oilpans.html

    I have a retangular 10 qt. one that's not on their web page.

    Dennis
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