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I originally made the deal to buy, can I call the Audi dealership up tomorrow and say I no longer want to trade in the Toyota and re-negotiate the deal on the new Audi and get some money off MSRP and then do a no money down 2-year lease.(who know's)Then sell the Toyota ourselves(no need to worry about sales tax with a lease deal) and put the money from the sale of our Toyota in OUR bank! ( maybe sounds like the way to go)
Thanks for all the information.
Rick
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P.S. Don't forget to let us know how everything turns out with your deal.
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If you opt not to lease, you can still take advantage of the attractive finance rates that Audi is currently offering on this car. Specifically, it is providing consumers with 2.9% financing for up to 3 years and 4.9% for 4 to 5 years on this car in May.
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Quick question:
Atlanta lease for 2005 Honda Accord Ex 4 cyl w/ Leather MSRP of $24,800. Lease deal is $308 per month (total payment including taxes). $1000 down (this includes acq fee, first mo payment, doc fees, etc), 36 mo/12000 miles.
Looks good to me by my numbers. Going in today- what do you think?
Any help appreciated! Thanks!
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Thank you.
hpowders
This truck's lease rate and residual value are right in line with GMAC's published program for it, but in order to give a complete evaluation of this deal I need to know what this truck's selling price is. This is an important number for you as a consumer to know for two reasons. First, the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing the price of the car that you want to lease you don't know how good a price you are getting it for. The second reason is that one needs the selling price of a vehicle that they want to lease is that it is necessary to calculate its lease payment. I would be more than happy to work up a sample lease payment on the truck that you are interested in for you if you let me know what its selling price is.
I just got to the bottom of your post and noticed that you will put a whopping 28,000 miles per year on this truck. That is more than double the 12,000 miles per year allowance of the deal that you mentioned. If you exceed your truck's allowed mileage by this much you will end up owing a HUGE excess mileage penalty at lease end. I definitely see your point about purchasing this truck at lease-end, you would have to if you put that many miles on it. While GMAC has been known to negotiate its vehicles' residual values from time to time, the fact that this truck's residual value is so inflated makes it unlikely that you will be able to buy it at a price that is below its market value. You may want to consider purchasing rather than leasing your next vehicle. For that matter, you might want to consider something that gets a little better gas mileage than the Escalade.
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Thanks so much for the advice. The numbers broke down this way - MSRP: 43,995
Selling price $39,699
Again, the lesae deal was 51 months, 48K, zero down - bascially sign and drive 549 per month plus tax, 51 months, 48k.
The XC70 (wagon_ I've heard has better incentives. With the: Premium, Climate, Convenience, and Metallic paint. MSRP= 41,035 Buy= 35,900 Lease= 429 per month plus tax, sing and drive zero down, 48 months, 48k miles.
We would prefer the XC90. i just need some sense of numbes to go in with - because there are several Volvo dealers in the area and with the right info I think we could get a good dal.
Thanks in advance.
pabernathy
I am looking to lease a 2005 Acura TSX and I was wondering if you can provide me with Acura's current (through American Honda Finance) Money Factor and residual values for a 36 month lease with 12K miles and also with 15K miles.
Thanks,
Scott
Auto, driver, climate, moonroof for invoice of $34,604.
Dealer incentives drive to lease selling price of $30,300
Two lease options:
(a) 24 months
$1500 initiation (first payment included)
$406/month (taxes included)
money factor of .00030 (actually, guessing he meant .0030)
residual: 59%
(b) 36 months
$1500 initiation (first payment included)
$390/month (taxes included)
money factor of .00049 (again, guessing he meant .0049)
residual: 49%
Car could be purchased for $29,800, by the way (better share of incentives available).
First, are these decent numbers on a Saab lease? MF's appear high, relative to rates today. The lowest of them seems to equate to a 7.2% interest rate. Either (a) or (b) stand out, strictly on the numbers, as better option? How do these stack up vs. purchasing at the $29.8? Thanks!
Exterior: $450
Packages:
Premium package $2,100
Lighting package $1,425
Sport package with all-season tire $750
Bose® premium sound system with AudioPilot® noise compensation feature and Sirius® Satellite Radio $1,000
Individual options:
Destination Charge $720
MSRP: $33,795
I haven't been to a dealer yet, because I want help with figures so I have some idea of what's going on when I go to negotiate. I plan on leasing for 36 months, 15,000 miles, and putting $4,000 down. What should I expect to be getting for money factor and residual value? Any other information anyone can give me that will help me getting a good price on this lease will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
woody2408
After researching online, the Honda website shows almost the exact payment we agreed on if we were $3k upside down. In other words, we may not have gotten screwed, but we definitely didn't get a deal whatsoever.
So, my questions: 1. Can I get out of the lease legally since we have not taken posession of the vehicle yet? 2. If so, would we loose all of the $1k paid up front, $405 (less the 1st month's payment) or would we keep it all? 3. Should I obtain a lawyer (more $)? 4. If we cannot get out of the lease, do we have any options to renegotiate a better monthly payment?
Since we negotiated after the banks were closed, they have not run our credit report yet, so it's the one time I would hope we would get declined (unlikely). We can put a stop payment on our check, but I don't want to be turned in to collections over this either.
Any help would be appreciated. I realize we may have to pay a shipping fee to get out of the lease since they sent it from another dealership, but we would hope that would be all. They are calling us tomorrow afternoon, 5/16 to tell us when we can pick up the vehicle. Thanks to anyone & everyone for your help.
-Footman (the dunce!)
I am a newbie -- both to the boards and to leasing. I posted a little bit earlier but since the post, have been doing some additional research trying to understand the "lingo". We're looking for fairly low payments since this is a second car. I'd like to email some local Saab dealers since they seem to have some decent lease prices. Can you please tell me what I should mention in the email other than: Saab model, MSRP, invoice, selling price, 0% down, 2 year lease, 12,000 miles. The other car we are interested in comparing with is a Honda Accord. We have never leased before and are trying to appear "semi informative" with this process.
Invoice on a 2005 Odysey EX-L with DVD is 29,386. ~2500 satisfies the note on your Suzuki according to you..So it really depends on your definition of getting screwed.
Have you called the dealer to try to cancel? I would try to get out of it if I were you regardless of any supposed legal obligation to buy. Anything can be negotiated.
So what I want to do is get out of the lease, and then use the Frontier as a trade-in. Now, I know I'm upside down on the Frontier in the amount of $9000 and I would be willing to put about $3000-$4000 down to cover the difference. If I put that much down, I wanted to know if my dealer could make the remaining $5000-$6000 amount I am upside down "disappear" in rebates/incentives in order to make the sale of a new 2005 Altima? If the dealer wants to tack on the entire $9000 difference to the new Altima loan, I just won't do it and I will tell him that. I wanted to know if this seems like a likely situation? Would my dealer let me get out of my Pathfinder lease and help make some of the upside-down difference in my Frontier disappear to get me into a new loan? I am planning this within the next 3 months so if someone could let me know what my best bet would be, please advise. I do not want to pay these two outrageous payments anymore, so one way or the other, I want to get out of this loan and lease and get into one new 2005 Altima loan.
Thanks. Peace...
The Pathfinder sounds like you got a lame deal on the original lease. You have over 10,500 in payments left and still have an 18000 residual..
Maybe try to sell the Fronty privately for as much as possible. Shoot high take what you can. CLean it up real nice, pay for a big detail job.
THen finish up the Pathfinder lease. WHy get rid of it? They are going to roll at LEAST the 10500 into the next car. Why pay 30,000+ for an 18,000 dollar car when you are already Driving a nice Pathfinder? . May as well enjoy the Pathfinder and try for a new car when the lease is over.
Good Luck!
You mentioned selling the Frontier. I don't know how to sell a car that's still under a loan and I know I wouldn't get the $19000 I still owe. So even if I sell it privately for $1300, I still have to pay the remaining $6000 right? So how would that work?
Oh, the problem with the Pathfinder is that my partner drives over 40 miles to work, so it has 42,000 miles on it and we're only allowed 48,000, so if we keep it another 2 years, we're gonna get RIPPED on the extra mileage charges at $0.15 a mile! So we are really in a bad situation right now. We have to somehow condense these two huge car payments into one, even if it's one at $550 a month, that at least beats two at $900 a month.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My "handle" says "A6 to M35", but I'm still exploring. I've been a long time Audi buyer and felt it was time for a change. But the newness of Infiniti's M is making it difficult for me to feel comfortable with what the dealers wish to offer.
The bottom line is that the car market is too weak for me to pay top dollar for anything--save a MB/AMG.
Now that the A6 has been out, what type of MF and Residuals are being offered for a 39 month, 15k lease?
Thank you in advance, and you have our extreme respect for offering an unbelievable free service.
HTe problem is that whtever you end up with you are going to be super upside down on. You could take out a new loan to pay off the difference on the Frontier. Like a refinance. And I suppose you could attempt to buy out the Pathfinder from the lease company but you will have to offer at least 25000 and there is no guarantee they will go for it.
I don't think you are going to solve this problem by buying another car.
You need to move this total debt into a longer term loan and probably keep one of these cars after you buy it from the bank so you dont add any new payments. Talk to a loan specialist at your bank or credit union.
Good luck.
The lease seems fine except that the "publishes" MF is 0.00240 and I think they used the 36 month, 10K miles residual...
Probably works out in the wash...what do you think?
leasing a new 05 acura tl non-nav :P
couple questions...are you aware of any loyalty incentives/bonuses for current honda finance customers releasing again via HF? :mad:
given that it's mid-May...what would top tier 700+ fico score m/f's be and residuals for 3 years and 4 years respectively, 12k miles per year? :confuse:
(It seems logical to me because they would still be making money off the returned leased vehicle because it is only 2 years old and they will probably sell it for $25000-$27000 and they would also be making more money because I'd be starting a brand new car loan with them for at least $23,000...however I am obviously no dealer and don't know the ins and outs of the business...)
Can someone tell me if this seems reasonable?
2005 Pilot EX Special Featured $279 Lease Terms
$279.00 per month for 36 months.
$1,999.00 capitalized cost reduction.
$2,873.00 total due at lease signing (includes first month’s payment, capitalized cost reduction and AHFC upfront acquisition fee; total net capitalized cost and base monthly payment does not include tax, license, registration, options and the like).
Model YF1845EW (2005 Pilot EX).
Special lease rates available on all new 2005 Pilot models. Offer valid from 5/3/2005 through 7/5/2005. Not all buyers may qualify. Subject to limited availability. The specific featured lease listed is not available to New York residents. New York residents should contact their dealer for New York featured lease. Terms and conditions vary for New York Residents. In addition, AHFC limits leasing terms to 39 months or less to residents and dealers in the state of Rhode Island.
My questions:
WHY is the down payment so expensive? I thought the big deal w/ leases is O down and low payments....
Can I offer O down? If so, then are the payments just a little higher? ALSO, what if I do not want a plain EX, it says in small print "all pilots". I want the EX w/ leather AND dvd.
Also, I KNOW how to negotate buys, but have only one experience w/ lease and it was in 2001...
I KNOW I can get this and ANY Honda AT invoice or below. I've bought before and from this local dealer, do I nego to 30k (cost for the ex w/ leather and dvd) then lease? Or are leases based on MSRP??? How does this work???
How do I know what is a good deal??
I am currently driving a 2004 honda odyssey EX w/ cloth, buy, 3.25% apr for 60 mths nothing down; payment $465.
Want nicer, but lower payment.
I have the BEST credit you can have so I can get the low rates they offer like 1.9 or 2.9 apr too. I guess i could put a few k down to make the payment the same.
Thing is, I only keep cars for a while; few yrs...
WHAT should I do??????????
And what can I negotate in a lease for a pilot??
Thanks!
heidi
heidi
that's the only lease I've ever had and remember not many other details, that's why I asked all the questions on my other post, but if you are just wanting to turn in a pathfinder early, or finace the remainer of a lease, my brother in law as a beemer m coupe that he leased, then wanted to keep, financed the baloon, no issues...
I'd call nissan finance co see what they say, and speak to the dealer of the new car you want. or if you want to keep it, call your bank, they may give you a loan, then you can pay it off, right and continue paying but you actually bought it? am I correct?? that's what banks told me when I wanted to sell my odyssey.
heidi
The 2005.5 Audi S4 had an MSRP of $52,795 + gas guzzler tax of $1700. The selling price was $52,530. I am also interested in the base lease mf for 36 months and the residual for this car.
On the 2006 BMW 330i, I have found from reading the other posts that there is not much of an incentive for the dealers to sell below MSRP. That is the same for me as the dealer was not selling below the $44,165 MSRP.
Thanks for all of your help.
or should I go with 'base' 2006 E350 for same money? :confuse:
Being the overly enthusiastic person that I am, I did a little bit of research on the Jetta itself and then on leasing, and last Friday I rushed into the dealer for a second time to see what my payments would be like. I was a little mad my boyfriend wouldn't come with me, as I really don't know the first thing about cars or negotiating. The guy at the dealership explained to me that they only had two Jettas left that had the options I wanted, a silver and a tan. They estimated my trade in at $3,000 (KBB is approx. $4,400) because it has hail damage. He wrote down the price of the silver car, minus my trade in, plus taxes. Like an idiot, I sat there asking why he couldn't do any better on my trade in (hail damage) and asking if he could do any better on the actual price of the new car. After he said "no," I had no idea what I was doing so I just said alright. However, I told him that I did not want the silver and wanted black instead. He supposedly called around and there were none in the area (which I highly doubted was the case, and looking online at another dealer, it looks like they have one). He then proceeded to offer me their black demo car, which was the same type of Jetta, only with the Package 2 (real black leather, other upgrades). This demo has 1800 miles on it and he said he could give it to me at invoice price of $24,900 (while I think the Package 1 I was looking at he put at $24,000). I said that sounded good to me. What I don't understand is why my monthly payments suddenly jumped from $300 to $369, when the final cost is only about a $900 difference before taxes and everything.
Anyway, after talking to my Dad, I realized I shouldn't have jumped into everything so fast, and should do more research. Luckily, I signed no paperwork locking me into anything. I've looked around online, and now my head is swimming with facts and I just feel more confused. Does anyone know if the site www.fightingchance.com is useful if I order their guide? I don't want to get screwed over, as I'm sure if I had taken what he was offering me originally, I probably would have been. Any help here would be GREATLY appreicated!
Lemme guess: You were not racking up miles at nearly double the allowed rate, right?
The Pathfinder is not going to work that way because of the miles. Most early terminations are rather dear; scroll through the past 200 posts or so for examples.
At least it's not an Explorer; Pathfinders hold their value fairly well...
The advice to call Nissan finance and ask about he payoff is dead on; that way she knows what the numbers are.
-Mathias
Unfortunately for you, steine13 speaks the truth... In fact, I couldn't even fathom a way to give you any advice that would actually work, given your circumstances... I was glad to see that he gave it a shot..
But, I do have a few things to add...
You've already borrowed a lot of money for these two vehicles (even the lease is a form of borrowing money). The best way to pay off that money is to keep making the payments.. If the interest rates were onerous, there could be other options, but you say they are low..
You want to trade two vehicles in for one vehicle... Seeing as you are already driving the Pathfinder at the rate of over 20K miles/year, how can you get by with one vehicle? If you can get by with one vehicle, then drive the crap out of that Frontier, and let the Pathfinder sit... In two years, you will be out from under that Pathfinder lease, and you can then buy that 4-5 year old Chevy Prizm that was mentioned before for around $5K.. Five years from now, you will be out of debt..
You've made multiple poor decisions to get to this point.. You've traded upside down at least once before, and leased a car with a 12K/yr mileage allowance, when you had no way to stay under... Don't compound those prior bad decisions with another one.... Trading and buying another car (which I doubt you can accomplish, given your circumstances) will not help you out of this.
The fact that you have $3-$4K of cash to put down on another car, in spite of your current payments, shows that you have the financial capability to keep making the payments.. That is a good thing..
Park the Pathfinder... Drive the Frontier... If you absolutely have to have another car to drive, find a $2K-$3K beater and pay cash for it... In two years, you will be in much better shape..
You may have to replace that beater with another one by then, until you pay off the Frontier, but that is the only way to do it... You basically have five years being stuck, until you get everything paid off..
But, if you can achieve that kind of financial discipline, you'll be much better off in the long run...
From a car financing perspective, you are in about as deep as you can be.... you don't have many options... Good luck.
regards,
kyfdx
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2005 bmw 330ci equiped with-
sport pack
prem pack
cold weather pack
navi
xenon headlights
3 year/36k
msrp-45400
selling price-42120
money factor-0.00095
residual factor-57%
cap cost reduction-$3000
monthly payment-$518
any thoughs would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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