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2008 Chrysler T&C & Dodge Caravan brake life expectancy!

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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Not to defend Chrysler, but many people seem to feel that there were significant changes made to the brakes in the 2008 model year.

    We have a 2007 DGC that just passed the 94,000 mile mark. Front pads (only, no rotors) were replaced at 44,000 miles and are still going strong. Rear pads were just replaced last weekend. I replaced the serpentine belt, pulley, etc at the 75,000 mile mark, just to be proactive. Had a problem with the passenger side power window not wanting to go down, but was able to fix that myself.

    Outside of some light bulbs, oil and filter changes, etc, that's been the extent of the repairs done.
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    hatemycaravanhatemycaravan Member Posts: 3
    This is a forum for 2008 GC, not 07. I'm glad for you that you have not had many problems with your van, but clearly there is an issue when you have 17 pages of complaints on this site alone. If this was a normal issue of wear and tear with brakes, would we all be outraged? And again, if you read most of the posts, we are not 16 year old drivers who have no experience. We have been driving for YEARS with numerous vehicles and have not had these problems. So again, clearly a problem with THIS vehicle!
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    yahooliganyahooligan Member Posts: 17
    I'm not sure if you're aware or not, but MY2008 is the year the Caravan was redesigned virtually from the ground up and is also the year the brake problems started happening. Clearly something is different with the 2008+ models, otherwise we wouldn't be here. Your 2007 experience simply doesn't apply, it's apples to oranges.
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    brimcbrimc Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I purchase my caravan brand new, I always have owned Gm products but now that GM does not make a real mini van we decided to go with Dodge. My vehicle has the recommended maintenance done on it. At 24 k the vehicle went in for its usual oil, filter and rotation and I was told the brakes were getting low. At 28k it was in for another oil change and I was informed that the rears were metal to metal and needed to be replaced at a tune of 400 bucks for rotors and pads. I refused and parked the van in my driveway and then contacted chrysler. I was givin the normal B.S. that is normal wear, 15 to 20k is the expected life for these brakes from chrysler. This is B.S. normal for who a company that manufactured an inferior product? And don't chime in with the own up and it is maintenance B.S. I traded in a 2001 Silverado with rear discs that went 110k with out rear pads and I currently have a 2003 olds alero with 112k and I just did the rears. I asked who I could talk over my case manager and I was told no one. The desision has been made and unless any other info came in that the wear was not normal Chrysler would not change their desision. Geuss what I am filing a complaint with NHTSA.GOV. and also filing a claim in small claims court. Done! This is one of a bunch of issues with this vehicle my list includes, AC repaired twice and going in for a third ( blowes hot air ). Engine ticking and knocking, Roof moldings loosened up and were falling off vehicle needed to be replaced, Drivers seatbelt frayed needed to be replaced. Three recalls needed to be performed the first year of ownership. if you are thinking about purchasing a 08 or 09 caravan run away from it.
    Thinking about the issue with the 08 caravan and the 09 it it almost seems like Chrysler corrected the front brake issue and it created an issue with the rear brakes. Hmmmmmm
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    normancassonnormancasson Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I also purchased a 2008 Grand Caravan new in May of 08 primarily for the Stow-n-Go feature. I'm 65 years old and have had Caravans starting with my 1984 Caravan with a stick shift that I towed behind my camper for many years. My first Chrysler product was a 1957 DeSoto Adventurer then a 1957 300C so I'm not new to this. I drive between Las Vegas and Southern California 45-50 times a year and put 40,000 miles a year on a vehicle- 90% of it highway driving. In 2006 I wanted a full sized car just like in the old days so I purchased a 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis. It was driven under the same conditions as all my cars. By 2008 it had 105,000 miles on it so I pushed it back to my "city car" just to drive around town. Thats when I bought the Grand Caravan. Personally I liked the design of the 2007 better but I got all this hogwash at the dealer about the "all new" 2008 so I bought one. The Stow-n-Go has lived up to my best expectations-I use it all the time. The brakes however have been more than disappointing. They went metal to metal at 34,500 miles on the front-the rears were within a millimeter or two of the fronts. The dealer had serviced the car at 34,000 miles-did this "super safety check" and didn't mention anything about the brakes. I'm in Lancaster, Ca. far away from home when they went but some friends recommended a tire store in town-The Tire Store for reference and sure enough the brakes were gone. This time I went with ceramic brake pads. Just for reference the Mercury now has 124,000 miles on it the last 20,000 miles 80% city driving and the brakes will go another 25,000 miles plus before needing replacement. I also replaced the brakes a second time on the Caravan at 72,000 miles- I went back to the same tire dealer this time since I was treated so well there the first time. The brake pads has about 20% left on them so I keep them in the van in case I have brake problems on the road. My conclusion is the same as others-The factory could have spent another $50.00 or so and put larger pads and rotors on the van and none of us would have ever had these problems-SHAME ON YOU CHRYSLER. I understand the 2011 R/T has a much larger brake system (The dealer tells my its the same one as on the Viper--no chance you'd need 19" wheels to clear the larger calipers) but I would hope somewhere between 2008 and today they've done something to improve things. I also had the A/C hose fail and the replacement hose is rerouted so the torque of the engine won't damage it. I also had the front wheel bearings fail on both my PT Cruisers at about 25,000 miles
    just like many others. I do hope the Fiat ownership will sort out these consistent problems in pre-production tests so I can once again believe in the product. One question that hasn't come up in these discussions is all the aftermarket pad/vented rotor combinations that have appeared. If anyone has used these "new and improved" aftermarket parts I'd like to know. Since this van was covered for "life" I might just put a few bucks into upgrading it and keep it longer than I normally do. It currently has 88,000 miles on it and has always run as good as expected although the mileage has never delivered the 25mpg.
    Thanks for listening.
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    pamelalebpamelaleb Member Posts: 22
    Hey Norm?
    Thanks for the info. My 2008 van only has 37,000 and I wondered if I should get rid of it for a fiat. What do you think? And I was just wondering why you go to vegas so much. I love vegas...
    Thanks,
    Pam
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    nikki30nikki30 Member Posts: 1
    I am extremely disappointed with my purchase. We will have had this van for 3yrs and have already replaced the brake pads 3 times and the rotars onces. This can not be normal wear and tear! :sick:
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    unionproductunionproduct Member Posts: 1
    Watching the unions thugs in Wisconsin & on tv intoxicating themselves at noon in the detriot union lot before returning to work & considering that they have been gov't workers relying on gov't handouts with bankrupt bond holders courtesy of the gov't, I guess I should expect my handicap van warranty to be out at 15,000 miles with multiple problems & recalls. I know of no solution other to buy other than gm & Chrysler union mandatory vehicles as the most important criteria
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    pamelalebpamelaleb Member Posts: 22
    Why do you blame this on "union thugs" ? Do you really think it was the union UAW who told Chrysler to do this to people. The UAW is a good and moral group of men and women who try to help the working people, the poor and the underprivileged. Yes there may be some union people who have personal moral issues but screwing the poor person who bought a defective car is not on their agenda. But then I am guessing people who spew this kind of garbage never worked for a union. Non-union people have what they have because of the unions. They would be working for even less if it wasn't for the unions. People just don't get it.
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    24sam24sam Member Posts: 10
    Are you for real when are you sheep going to stop being used to fight with your fellow AMERICANS while the real problems are hid behind this crap! You forget some of that " handout " was their tax money too. Remember they are AMERICANS too ! Please stick with the real problem here please!!!!! not this soundbite garbarge your eating! Dont we have to deal with enough of this crap already. We are talking about crummey brakes and how to get a corporation to take care of them you know the " GOOD AMERICANS who run these companies and whose only motive seems to be how to screw average AMERICANS so they can stuff more money in their pockets " not like those bad UNON THUGS!!!!! JEEZZZZZ GO AWAY PLEASE!!!
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    abutcherabutcher Member Posts: 33
    I thought this was supposed to be a forum for 2008 and up minvan brake problems.
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    joeguzman10joeguzman10 Member Posts: 3
    My brakes are holding up so far at 39k miles. They must have modified the brakes in 2009 to solve this issue. I did receive a letter about the brake problem. The Dodge service did not find any problems.

    Is anyone having brake problems with the 2009 models?
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    sam01msam01m Member Posts: 2
    You seem to be very passionate about unions. I, on the other hand, am very passionately based on the other side of the union fence. Unions do not allow a company to make good use of its available work force. They strong-arm companies to pay even higher wages for an already overpaid workforce. The strip away the concept of working hard because your salary is based on your contribution to the company.

    The founding principles of unions were great, but the harsh reality is that it created a morale within the workforce that is detrimental to the growth and properity of the company. I could go on forever on this subject!
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Here's the UAW thread you might find interesting (or at least entertaining).

    UAW Thread
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    afilafil Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2008 Grand Caravan, at 32,000 km (22K miles) rear breaks locked, had to pay $200 labor, Chrysler covered cost of parts. At 44,000 km got a recall notice - Chrysler extended warranty to 30,000 km on front brakes - this time got the brakes replaced for free, and just recently at 58,000 km had the rear brakes replaced again, and again Chrysler covered cost of parts. I have to admit that I am getting very good treatment from Customer Care, but I do not think that is normal to have brakes replaced replaced every 28,000 Km.
    Just recently I was told that the design has changed, but I am not sure how this is going to effect my van. Otherwise I am happy with it, and "stove and go" is great.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    Has anyone been able to find and try aftermarket rotors/pads? Any suggestions as to brand? I haven't found any made for the T&C made by Brembo or Zimmerman. I have found some performance models from EBC, but I don't have any personal experience with that brand.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Well, I had to replace the front rotors on my 2005 Dakota Quad Cab, at 12,000 miles. I put Raybestos Premium PG Plus rotors on, but they are "warped" also, at the 27,000 mile mark (only 15,000 miles on them). So I cannot recommend the Raybestos rotors.
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    william_08_tacwilliam_08_tac Member Posts: 1
    EBC are some of the best made, i have a friend that races his 600 hp car, and swears by them. Get the slotted rotors and the green stuff pads and forget about the brake problems with this car. You could get the yellow ones if you want to spend more money. I kept taking my van to the dealer and they turned the rotors but it never fixed it for long. bought this stuff for my 2008 t&c and have zero problems. not hard to install, but you will need tools and jack/stand Here is the links for what i bought.

    Front
    Rotors
    http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-USR7442
    Pads
    http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-DP61798

    Rear
    Rotors
    http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-USR7443
    Pads
    http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-DP61840

    here is forum that has people discussing brake pads
    http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=945167
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    Thanks for the recommendation. FYI, partsgeek has the fronts for far cheaper ($161 for the pair).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    bigbone4ubigbone4u Member Posts: 5
    edited August 2011
    My 2008 T&C just hit 32,000 miles and my rotors are warped... This is now the third time the rotors and pads need to be replaced. I just ordered drilled and slotted rotors from ATL Autosports. I also ordered their ceramic pads. Altogether, front and back rotors and pads cost me $250. Ill update the forum once I get them in and install them.

    Here's the link for them if anybody wants to check them out -

    http://www.atlautosports.com/
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    Do you have a link directly to the product? Because I just looked on that site and couldn't find any products for the T&C.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    calmomof3calmomof3 Member Posts: 1
    I have been going through this HELL for 2 years now.. brakes and rotors replaced 5 TIMES... I was actually able to contact someone at Chrysler who admitted there being a FLAWED brake design in the 2008 Dodge GC and Chrysler TC... I filed a complaint with the NHTSA..YOU all should too!!!! If enough people complain they have to do an investigation which would cause them to recall the entire thing.. I dont know why they wouldn't just give us all new vehicles..
    http://www.nhtsa.gov/
    FILE a REPORT PEOPLE..MAKE A DIFFERENCE IT'S GOING TO TAKE A CHILD DYING FOR THEM TO TAKE ACTION
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    What exactly has been happening to your brakes to make you fear the death of a child?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Premature wear of pads and rotors, IIRC.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    But that would never be life threatening unless you completely ignore all the signs and noises.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I know. A bit of hyperbole on his part, perhaps.
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    l78russelll78russell Member Posts: 2
    I learned quick that the van eats rotors quick - don't bother ever having them resurfaced because it only lasts a month and it's a waste of money. I put cross-drilled rotors on my van. They don't make them so I get them from a company online that drills the standard rotors. Just take them to the dealer if you don't want to replace them youselves. They last a lot longer and work fantastic!
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    bennett4bennett4 Member Posts: 11
    My 2009 T&C has had the same problem since day one. I've been through 4 front/rear sets in 29K miles. While Chrysler has stood behind the repairs and will replace the parts under an "extended warranty" with a $100 deductible, they continue to use the same inferior parts. Has anyone noticed how the rear brakes develop more brake dust than the fronts? This is not the norm and I have noticed the 2012 models do not share this. Bottom line is you need to replace the components with ceramic pads and aftermarket rotors. My indy recomends Centric components but they are squeeky. FWIW, my friend's 2011 Honda Odyssey has ongoing transmission problems and there's lots of road noise in the van on the highway. T&C owners do not share this. I guess it's all give and take with vehicles at this price point.
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    pamelalebpamelaleb Member Posts: 22
    Can you give us a link to where we can buy these cross-drilled rotors. and can you tell me what that is? Thanks,
    Pamela
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    pamelalebpamelaleb Member Posts: 22
    Hey has anyone had a noise when breaking. It is not all the time, very intermitten and only when breaking. Kind of sounds like riding on a flat tire.
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    ggrahamggraham Member Posts: 2
    I have spent too much money on brake pads, rotors and calipers. This is the third time I've had every thing replaced - both front and back with 90,000 kms on my 2008 Town and Country. I was told the caliber was sticking due to very dirty brake fluid (my fault). I just had the van in in March 2011 when they replaced all brakes and rotors and checked all fluids. Now, 6 months later I am replacing it all again, including calipers, and was told it was my fault due to extremely dirty brake fluid.

    It is almost a relief to find this website today and know that there is something drastically wrong with the 2008 vans. Now the fight with Chrysler begins!!!

    Going in to trade it in tomorrow - not wasting another dime!!!

    Where do I begin to file a complaint with Chrysler in Canada?
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    ggrahamggraham Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I have the same noise and have taken it in to the dealership a few times but every time I take it in they say I need new brakes. I get the new brakes but still have the noise every once in a while. They tell me they can't hear the noise when they test drive it and don't know what it could be.
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    jgill1jgill1 Member Posts: 1
    45k miles just told today that the new updgraded rotors need to be turned. We have already had the pads and rotors changed 3 times and there screwed up again. We also have bad wheel bearings at 45k. The break problems are due to the breaks holding too much heat and I am now curios if the bad wheel bearing is due to the heat issue caused by the breaks. Does that make sense? Bearing grease heats up too much and breaks down so the bearings fail.

    Thoughts?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    sure, it makes sense.

    But what upgraded rotors are you referring to?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    thomasxthomasx Member Posts: 7
    edited November 2011
    FINALLY!

    Finally I find some more chrysler owners with the same problem as mine. :) I've been looking around for some time on the internet and have been more surprised not to find anything, than I was today when I found all the info here.

    I'm in sweden, my car is out of warranty as it is a 2008 and there are no class act law suits or anything alike going on here. :mad: So, I am mostly interested in how to actually solve the issue, rather than how to deal with chrysler or dealers. I also do all of my service etc my self.

    I've noticed that the breaks are often actually applied during normal driving, they do not release properly. This goes for all four wheels. It causes excessive wear and excessive heat AND excessive fuel consumption. The heat destroys the disks/rotors and can also, as in my case destroy the bearings. I have checked multiple times, the pads are not stuck and the calipers are not stuck. The problem has to be in the hydraulic system one way or another, or on the other side of the hydraulic system. I have also noted, which is a bit odd, if pressure is applied to the brake pedal continuously, it will slowly go all the way down to the bottom.

    So, does anyone know or have any idea of the root cause for the problems, or how to solve them once and for all? :confuse:

    Thanks

    Thomas

    Gothenburg
    Sweden
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    If your pedal is slowly going to the floor and you have a release problem, it sounds to me like you have a leak in your system. Most likely the master cylinder. Sounds like your fluid is slowly seeping past the seals. This doesn't mean fluid is leaking outside the system, just that pressure is not building and releasing properly between chambers.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    thomasxthomasx Member Posts: 7
    As you say a leak would explain the pedal going to the floor, but how would it explain the release problem?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    edited November 2011
    Well, I can't say I am intimately familiar with the inner workings of hydraulic valves or what have you, but I'm imagining the leak prevents a proper transfer of fluid, so when you release the pedal, the leak is letting fluid by at the leak, which is slowing down the release at the caliper(s).

    Picture pushing a cup upside-down into a bowl of water. As long as the cup is solid, the air pressure prevents the water from moving up inside the cup. And when you pull that cup out, it comes out quickly and easily thanks to the air pressure from within.

    Now put a small hole in the bottom of that cup. When you push it into the water, it pushes the water down at first, but the air slowly pushes out the hole and the water rises. Now go to pull that cup out. Rather than releasing quickly and easily, it tries to pull the water out with it while that small hole struggles to allow enough air in to release the vacuum hold on the water.

    This really is a wild guess on my part. Just attempting to apply logic to the problem. I could be way off.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    thomasxthomasx Member Posts: 7
    Well, normally not I would say. Here's a simplified illustration of how a master cylinder works. Hit the red arrows to see the action.

    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/master-brake1.htm

    If there is a loss of pressure, as in the case of an internal leakage, it is in practice almost the same thing as if the piston went back to the original position, and the brakes release.

    I don't know exactly how the chrysler team designed the brakes in this car (well we do know they did it in an exceptionally bad way ;) ) and playing with the thought, one could see a scenario where a leak would cause the effect, but it would involve a one way valve controlled by the piston position, opening the valve for return when the piston returns to the original position. And in addition, that the piston does not return to the original position as a result of the leak which in that case only leaks oil from the primary (pressurized) side to the secondary side, and not back again, and a rather weak spring. In that case, the piston could get stuck at the activated end and the oil activating the caliper and break pads wouldn't return. Seems a bit far fetched, but hey, who knows. Would be interesting to see exactly how the chrysler break system is designed.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    I see what you are saying.

    So what do you mean by slow to release? You lift off the pedal and... the car doesn't roll? You could have one bad caliper causing all of this.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    thomasxthomasx Member Posts: 7
    Sorry, I can't seem to find where I wrote 'slow to release'.

    It is not just one caliper, as all four wheels gets hot after just a short drive not using the brakes. Hence, the brakes on all four wheels are activated during driving.
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,066
    Oh, when you said "they do not release properly," I thought that's what you meant.

    So you are saying they never fully release? I can't imagine that to be the case as they would probably catch fire.

    I'll have to feel our wheels after the next time I drive the van.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    kope49kope49 Member Posts: 15
    Perhaps this explains why my gas mileage has dropped like a rock. The last three tanks with my 3.8 SXT I have averaged 13.8 mpg. That is mostly city driving but still unacceptable. I replaced rear rotors at 41K and still have originals on front at 43K.
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    From what I know, disc brakes are supposed to drag a bit on the rotor, and thus are supposed to create a bit of heat. This helps the braking system by keeping the pads/rotors drier in wet weather so the brakes have a better chance of working in the wet, something the old style drum brakes had problems with.

    So, the brake pads should probably not be fully released from the rotor. One way manufacturers do this is by the design of the o-ring seal that's between the brake piston and the caliper. This is designed to slightly retract the piston, or just release the pressure it's applying to the rotor, but still alow the pad to drag (slightly) on the rotor.
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    bobc5bobc5 Member Posts: 8
    Hey William

    I was wondering if you had an update on these parts? Have you rotated the tires and taken a look at the brakes. I just went through some crappy Bendix and wagner pads in 11k miles and they were supposed to be ceramic. I can deal with changing them every 30k miles but right now that seems like a pipe dream.

    I have an 09 Grand Caravan.
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    nine11c22nine11c22 Member Posts: 1
    Can you say RIPPED OFF!? There is no way that your brake fluid, in six months, or even in 3 years, can get that dirty. It's a sealed system. I drive 25K miles a year. I've had new cars, old cars (55 Chevy, 62 Pontiac) and NEVER EVEN CHANGE MY FLUID. Its a sealed system. It would take rust, abuse, leakage and/or 10-20 years for fluid to get dirty.

    You are getting ripped off bad.
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    yahooliganyahooligan Member Posts: 17
    Someone needs to learn about brake fluid...

    Fluid should be flushed every 2-3 years not because it's "dirty" but actually due to copper content and moisture. Sealed system? Not fully. The reservoir cap is vented and brake fluid LOVES to absorb moisture.

    The copper content comes from the ABS system and general corrosion of the brake system due to a breakdown in the fluid due to heat which in turn reduces protection against corrosion/oxidation. The copper content is the main concern these days, not moisture, and copper test strips should be used every 6-12 months to determine when the brake fluid should be flushed.

    I pity anyone's vehicles that are abused by not following proper maintenance procedures.
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    sandyd1069sandyd1069 Member Posts: 2
    I am relieved to find this website.. I'm having to change brake pads and rotors on my 2008 T&C Limited 4.0 every 20,000-30,000 miles and was just told that I needed to change brake fluid and flush the lines because it was "routine maintenance" at 50,000 miles. I'm on my 3rd set of brakes and rotors and being told its driving habits, but my van before 2000 dodge caravan sport 3.3 has only had 2 set of rear brakes ever and still are good. I think I changed the front pads about every 45,000-50,000. I think its nuts to pay 1200-1500 dollars a every year or so for brakes. I've also had the intermittent issues of my van not starting, charged 100.00 to tell me I needed a battery, but it worked up until 3 weeks ago when it didn't start again for the 3rd time in 2 years, I finally changed it. Waiting to see if that fixes it or like many of you will still be intermittent issue. I have trouble with the doors not wanting to close, and one time actually closed on my husband and he had to fight to get it to open back up, had it been a child I know it wouldn't have turned out good. I have loud squeal when I turn the wheel hard to turn into the drive. My rear seat cover will NOT stay on no matter what I do. The rear seat automatic stow acts up every time I use it. I purchased this van and bought the extended warranty as I was going to keep it for long time. I bought the top of the line and now I just want to get rid of it. I've paid for Chrysler's top of the line only to have gotten a piece of crap I feel. I've called Chrysler about brakes issues and they took care of cost at 10,000 miles and again at 20,000 miles but not at 48,000 miles they are offering me 100.00 assistance on a 651.00 dollar bill. I don't think that is fair. For those reading this. Dealership Freedom Dodge tried to convince me that it is routine maintenance at 50,000 miles to flush and clean brakes lines, this is NOT true as I have now found out. I feel like a fool for trusting them to maintain my van. Thank everyone who has posted on here. I now know I'm not alone! and its not my "driving habits" that is causing brake issues!
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    sandyd1069sandyd1069 Member Posts: 2
    Is it safe to assume you are employed by a Chrysler dealership?
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    yahooliganyahooligan Member Posts: 17
    Pardon me? No, I don't work for Chrysler or any other manufacturer. Do yourself a favor and do the research yourself if you don't believe me. Copper and moisture are two things that need to be monitored in your brake fluid and the fluid needs to be flushed when either of those contaminants exceeds safe levels. That's just the way it is. Rule of thumb is to flush the fluid every 2 years if you don't want to do the test, otherwise test every 6-12 months and flush when the strips say it's time. It may be 2 years, 4 years or 10 years, but the test doesn't lie.

    Tell me, what's more important, the safety of you, your family, and those that share the road with you or saving, say, $120 because you don't feel like properly maintaining brake fluid is necessary?

    How often do you change your oil? Why? Some people, including myself, use oil analysis to determine when the oil needs to be changed instead of going by the manufacturer intervals. Other people go by mileage, others by time. Regardless of the method, I think we can all agree that the oil in your car needs to be properly maintained, right? Or do you wait until there's a problem with your engine before you change the oil?

    Likewise, coolant needs to be tested or replaced at specific intervals, depending on the vehicle. My truck has coolant that's "good" for 5yr/100k miles, but after a few years it's a good idea to have the pH levels, etc checked to make sure everything is still OK. Do you have your coolant flushed when it's reached the end of its life or do you wait for it to cause so much scale in your radiator that the vehicle overheats due to the flow restriction? Maybe wait for it to eat your water pump so you can spend money on coolant AND a new water pump?

    The list goes on and on. Brake fluid is easily one of the most neglected fluids in cars and we kinda need brakes in order to...you know...stop...and be safe. You'd think people might take this critical fluid a little more seriously. Don't wait for there to be a problem, have your brake fluid checked for copper and moisture content and have it flushed before it has a chance to damage your brake system or result in an accident.
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