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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • guestguest Posts: 770
    Yes - 45 degree angle. Firts - place the gasket and se how is alingement with the manifold.
    Also you can do 45 on cyl. head.
    How about those small holes in the EGR , you located that?
    If yo will look inside the exh. ports you will see small "pipe" on the bottom of the runners.
    Let me know.
  • Could be the oxygen cause my mileage in my old Suzuki Swift to fall from 36-39 down to 24. I was told that is the sign of an sensor going out is sudden bad mileage. I had it fixed and boom my mileage went back up.
  • Hello
    I live in the state of NY. The weather has been rainy. I cannot start my car. I did get it started (finally)and let it run for about 5 minutes. I gave it some gas (while sitting)and it stalled. My check engine light did come on the other day but has shut off. Help!
  • Hi- I am in Maine- same weather- most likely a short in your hi-tension wires better known as spark plug wires or coil lead. Go to a autoparts store buy a spray can of WIRE DRY. spray it on each spark plug wire-follw the wires back to the round didtributor cap, then follow the 1 single wire to the coil, on the firewall- and soak the coil with wire dry. Make sure your battery is charged and not dead from cranking the engine- if so jump start it- try to start the engine......good chance it'll start up. IF this did the trick take your car to a mechanic, replace the HT wiring- if it does it again replace the coil. (thats pricey).. OK, well-hope it works for you !
  • Hello...p10leadman,
    Thank you so much. I still have yet to fix my problem. I will try this. Actually, my car has been sitting in the carport. Afraid to drive. Everything is very old on my car. Never changed spark plugs. Or wires. :( Never had enough cash to do so. Now I have a problem. I believe my gas tank probably needs to be replaced and whatever is inside it. I have a leak (gas)on the right side in the back of my car. My brother says my car is junk. Never had any problems. Always started for me. I bought it used. Have had it for, I don't know, maybe six years. Anything else you can tell me would be wonderful.
  • not knowing what part of the country you are in, makes a difference. Anyway these cars can be fairly durable. It seems that whne they do fall apart it's all at once...or maybe that's just my viewpoint. I have a 1995, a 1997,both 2 dr metro's...the 3rd is a 1996 Suzuki Swift (a Geo clone). I have one rolled over 1996 Geo Metro for parts, and that has saved me a ton of money !
    I am now trying to figure out how to replace a leaking heater core. Near as I can tell, it must be the first thing installed on the dash ! So, I flushed the system, added radiator sealer and new anti-freeze...maybe I can get away with that temporary fix another year.
    I think your problems are much less- and the fixes alot cheaper. If in fact the gas tank is leaking, a junkyard visit maybe in order... anew one will be around $99.oo + labor to install it. I never repair gas tanks.
    Is your car 3cyl, or 4 cyl, automatic, stnadard, does it have ac? 2 dr, 4 door?
    Good luck
    :) :)
  • Ok, the 2 dr Geo Metro (97) has a leak- verified with gooo on the inside of the windshield and a disappear act of anti freeze in the radiator! I checked my repair manual(haynes) and dear gawd! You all but remove the roof- the dash comes totally out and all cables, radio, ect- then if you do get the plastic box out, you have to pry it apart- thats the easy part I guess. A practice run on myparts car proved it to be a monster job. So far I flushed the system, and added radiator sealer and new anti freeze- hope to get away with that- car has 116,000 miles on it- hardly broken in.
    OK THAT ALL SAID: anyone got a tip of how to replace it easier? Other than a dealer?
  • Hello leadman,

    My 94 Geo is a 3cyl, 2dr, standard, hatchback. No AC. Nothing fancy about it. Just your basic car. I have crawled under the rear of the car and there is (gas) slowly dripping out. I have a little puddle on the floor of my carport. Live in Rochester, NY.

    Thanks. I am new to this site.
  • Hi Deborahf -

    I live in TX, so I guess it depends on why your gas tank is leaking. Rust is not a problem here, but backing over a rock was. I was able to have the hole in my gas tank repaired by a local shop that specializes in repairing gas tanks (and the repair was much cheaper than finding a gas tank for my '92 Metro convertible).

    If you have lots of rust on your tank, though, it wouldn't make sense to try to have it fixed - simply replace it with a rust-free one from a junk yard, as p1leadman suggested.


  • Dear fellow Metro drivers and maintainers, Here is's one for ya.. My Metro three banger is the sweetest fun car ever. I lavish love on it for recreation and therapy. My Metro (AKA Pipsqueak) and I are best friends .. however ..
    There is one thing that annoys me. On startup in the mornings, the one darn belt it has squeals like crazy. I've replaced the belt, tightened the belt, over tightened the belt, loostened the belt, sprayed the belt with belt stuff, it seems to come back every time. (??) I can stop it by turning of & re-starting the engine a few times until it starts quietly. Anybody else have this??? Thanks DangerDude
  • Hey Dangerdude! I found this information for you. It was written buy a guy called Dave on Teamswift. Your belt must be insanely tight to avoid squealing but
    there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump.

    If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one.

    Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible.
    Have fun, Vanilla Latte.
  • DangerDude- yup, been there-done that. I found that the cheap-o belts sing loudly no matter what. So I took off the belt- trashed it, put on a top quality belt, and presto! no more noise... yes I tried the belt grip drssing and everything.
    And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator.
    When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any...
    Good Luck !
  • Thank you gentlemen .. I fully understand the consequences of the "too-tight" belt and trashing neighboring bearings! Pipsqueak is far too valuble to risk owner induced damage. Anyway, I just changed the timing belt, water pump, front oil seal and alternator (and belt). Don't want to revisit those jobs again for another 100K miles! Sure do appreciate the information. We're now doing light bodywork to regain our youthful gloss. DangerBabe took Pipsqueak today and I had to drive a Ford Taurus wagon??? There goes my dangerous image!! (hah) DangerDude
  • The filling tube, the part just after the trap door, is made with a smaller siamese tube welded to it. The whole shebang is dipped in a hard rubber type of protection. Nevertheless, if moisture gets to the area where the weld is... bingo, rust develops and you have a leak... in the rear. Easy to replace but the cost of a new tube is horrendous. I had that problem and mortgaged my goldfish.... then when I saw a tube, almost new on ebay for 5 bucks, I jumped on it for my second car Espresso Nero. A2 door hatchettyback. For this one I found an air deflector to keep the rear window clean. Marvelous, just mahwvellous...Ebay: 10 bucks.
  • How do I clean off battery cables? Can I do it myself without buying special sprays? Also, does the cable with the little plastic cover over it supposed to have a split (?)in it? It is not a solid piece like the other side.
  • I should have married a mechanic.
  • Thats ok- my ex wife said she'd rather have married a REAL man rather than a mechanic..LOL..OK, that said-
    the red cap is POSITIVE + and the bare or black clamp is NEGATIVE -
    Unbolt the positive and twist the clamp loose with a pair of pliers- then do the same to the negative clamp -, Then you have a choice-
    1) at an automotive store or even walmart, buy a small chrome cylinder that is called "A battery post cleaner"- this hand-dandy device has wire brushes inside it, and can clean the battery post, AND, when the device is taken apart, it has another brush than can clean the opposite end
    the battery clamps-This device is used by a twisting motion- If you want you can clean the bluish powder off with a small hand wire brush and then shoe-shine the battery post with a piece of sand paper, and do the same to the battery cable clamp.
    A word of caution- do not get the blue-white battery post powder on your clothes or near your eyes- it is caustic. It canslowly destroy you clothes like battery acid.
    Another way is to finalize the cleaning by hand, then washing with a wet rag, the wash with baking soda and water- then washing and drying- re-assemble and presto ! all done.
    IT is NOT difficult, and should take less than 30 minutes from start to finish.
    Good luck ! :D
  • 1994 Geo Metro Automatic Transmission

    Our Geo Metro has recently begun to occasionally lurch forward when accelerating from a dead stop. Sometimes this happens when it has been parked for a while or overnight, but it also happens at traffic lights, stop signs, etc., anywhere it has come to a full stop.

    It lurches once, then moves forward as it should. There is no problem with changing gears or acceleration after the first "jump."

    Also, this lurching is the only symptom of a possible transmission problem -- there is no noise, gear change difficulty or hesitation -- nothing.

    Our Geo has a little over 83k miles on it, and it has been regularly serviced, including a transmission fluid check.

    However, there are two chronic conditions worth a mention, but I don't know if they are related to the current lurching problem:

    Our Geo has always had very little acceleration power on "take-off," but once it's going, it runs great. This lack of power issue has been repeatedly addressed over the years, but our mechanic has yet to pinpoint the cause -- we've learned to live with it, and we don't pull out into traffic until it's clear a looooong way down the road.

    Also, wet weather seems to cause our Geo to sputter and complain -- hesitation and very little acceleration power. However, once the engine has run for a while or after the sun comes out, this disappears. This is another issue that's never been resolved, and it has been a bit of a pain since we live in Florida where it's wet most of the summer.

    As to the lurching, we had our mechanic drive the Geo, and since he's not a transmission expert, he hesitated to make any diagnosis. He just advised us to have the transmission looked over.

    We know nothing about transmissions, and we've heard all the horror stories about bad mechanics cheating people like us. So, understandably, we're nervous about taking the Geo in for a diagnostic on the transmission.

    If anyone can suggest what we need to be aware of or if anyone has another idea what the problem might be, please post. This is our only car, and it has to last a while longer.

  • You maybe correct, the tranny is of suspect. The only other thing I can think of is bad CV joints. You don;t mention how many miles on the car- for what it's worth, my 1995, with 116,000 miles on it has the lurch problem you describe, but it just started it recently. But it has a great pick up and go- no lack of power. Now my 1997 Geo has the lack of power issue, but not the lurching (yet) both of mine are automatic transmissions.(I assume yours is too)
    Well, the only thing I can suggest is a good tranny shop- like AAMCO .
    good luck-
  • Hello. First - this happen when the engine is cold or hot?
    Second - please check the connection between the accelerator cable to the trouthle body. If you have very little clearence between the set srew and the "cam" plate, which is attached to the acceleratore cable - you will need to lubricate the shaft in the "carburator" ( trouthle body).
    Check also the spring attached to the camplate is not damaged. :mad:
    Let me know.
  • Thanks for the info, p10leadman -

    Our Geo has about 83000 miles on it, and it's never been driven hard or for very long distances - we use it for around town mostly.

    And yes, our Geo is an automatic transmission.

    I looked up CV joints today, and apparently a symptom of a bad CV joint is a clicking sound on turns. As I described in my first post, there is no noise whatsoever when the Geo lurches or when it turns. However, we'll have the CV joints checked.

    I guess we'll also be seeing the AAMCO guy too. :(
  • Thanks for your post, pipeman -

    The lurching happens mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes it will do it when it's hot. For example, if we come to a full stop at a stop sign, then accelerate, it will lurch or jump, then it's okay.

    We'll have the connection and spring checked as you suggested. What you've described sounds very probable, given the Geo's performance. :sick:

    Thanks again...
  • hello again. Please check those recomendation, but do not try to adjust the 'set srew' on the "carburator" - throutle body. If the cam rest on the set srew, next step will be - throtle body positioning sensor mounted on thre second side . Remove the 2 srew, gently and check for operation. Let me knoiw. After that I will let you know. Mark
  • Thanks to all! I had a tune-up done and my car seems to be starting with no problem now. Even in the rain. Also, I am driving below half a tank of gas because of the gas leak. Can't do the gas tank repair yet. Keep your fingers crossed.
  • I just did a valve job on a 90 metro, with #1 exhaust valve burnt. Had the valves ground, ect.. Put it back together and #2 intake valve is hanging open. If I take the cam. out it seals fine under a 30 psi. leak down test. When checking the lifter on #2 intake it's hard as a rock and the others are nice and spongy. I took the lifter apart and cleaned it, it looked fine no broken spring or Anything back toghter and it's still hard a rock, valve doesn't seal. It seams like the lifter is all the way bottomed out. Why is the valve still hanging open?
  • Pipeman,

    Cleaned out the EGR passages as per your suggestion.

  • Check thje oil passages inside the "folowers" lifter and also how easy is moving inside. They are very sensible for dirty oil. Also check the flow in the cyl. head. Remove the lifter and look inside the cyl. head for small opening on the bottom of the hole. I'm sure they are klogged.
  • I am thinking about buying a 96 metro hatchback. The owner of the car is original. The check engine light has come on in the last months or so he says. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced the same problem? Id like to work around goin to a shop to have it tested!
  • What millage?
    Second - if the engine runs fine, do not worry about the engine lights - CO2 oxy sensor.
    Check the engine - drive longer period time more that 1/2 hrs. and check the engine in idling for ligths for oil pressure. Remeber oil must be hot. Check the lights on dashborad. If nothing come red, do not worry.
    Let mem know about the millage.
  • Dear Fellow Metrophiles, I've solved this dilemma and thought I'd tell all about it. Should your low beam headlights quit, and you can only flash your high beams .. here's what it is. Under the dash & up over the clutch pedal (remove front lower dash cover) (3 screws) Look up and find a white plastic multi-pin harness connector. Loosten the holding straps so you can rotate teh plugand you'll see a burnt spot inside the plug. It's a toasted pin. Cut the two wires and re-splice them outside the connector. Voila! Low beams again. This has happened to me TWICE. Different pins inside same connector two different times. Same remedy. Hope this helps somebody! DangerDude
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