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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    From my experience you might have better luck in you can locate an old established dealership.

    Do not ask about warranty on the phone. Make an appointment for the repair. This makes you a customer, not just a "looky-lou" bugging them on the phone.
    Look for the old mellow dude in service. He is probably the one who can help you.

    I had a cat. replaced at a Dodge dealer (brand new high volume bright shiny place). Three days in the shop. I paid the whole bill.
    A month later the truck was still not running right. Stopped in to an old Chrysler Dealer. Red brick and wood floors. Some of the furniture looked like it was from the 40s.
    They told me the wrong Cat. was on the truck and was causing the problem. They replaced the Cat. muffler and tailpipe, tune-up and an oil change. No charge. Took about 40 minutes.

    Good luck,
  • rcookiercookie Posts: 2
    i was driving at about 30mph when the clutch pedal just gave in, completely flimmsy i couldnt push the clutch in to change gears. then while pushin the limp clutch pedal, it got stuck or jammed. i drove home changing gears without the clutch. i think its the clutch master cylinder. any advice?
  • rcookiercookie Posts: 2
    by the way i have a 2000 4.0 wrangler
  • ssabinessabine Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler that in the first two minutes of driving will fall on its face between temperatures of:
    150 deg. and 190 degs
    If you drive through it everything is fine. If I go to the mall and park it for a while it starts all over again. Going down the road it only last for 300 - 400 yards. Watching the temp change it goes away before 210 on the gage.
    Any ideas?
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Step back, take a look at your TJ.
    It has all the aerodynamics of a brick with a sail.
    13-15 mpg is about all it will ever get.
    Anybody that tells you they do better just lie.
    The same motor in a Cherokee will do about 20 mpg.
    You pay to play.
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    I think your jeep has drain bramage.
    Probably terminal.
    You can watch it die a slow and painful death.
    It would be better to do a Dr.K on it.
    1 high velocity 240 grain 44 caliber round in the throttle body should do the trick.
  • When I push the dash switch to engage the air lockers, both the REAR LOCK and FRONT LOCK lights on the dash flash continuously. I don't believe that the lockers are engaging, either. Any ideas as to what the problem may be?
  • Got a fun one for you guys. My baby is at Aamco right now and they don't know what to tell me. '98 manual 4.0L with standard axles and a positraction rear and 20k miles (yes 20!). For some reason over the past few weeks its been squealing a rear tire (inside I think) when I go around turns hitting the gas even lightly, but only when I hit the gas, then there is a snap/clunk noise and the squealing stops. It's been getting louder every week until last night it did the same deal but the wheel just seemed to lock and I ended up facing the road I just drove down. Let me know if anyone has the slighest idea what is happening to my jeep.
  • I just removed the skid plate to my 97 Wrangler to install an new exhuast system. Bolts holding it in place were welded. Not sure best way to reinstall the skid plate, tap bolt holes to screw in new bolt, or have dealer reweld it back in place? It is difficult to find the correct size tap for the bolts.
    Looking for any advice.
  • mudchickmudchick Posts: 1
    I've heard there were problems with dash lights in previous years' models, but has anyone had experience with the air bag light in the 2002? For five years I've had issues with the engine light coming on regularly, but never the air bag.

    Any ideas?
  • gsergotgsergot Posts: 1
    Hey, new here and been having a problem with my 99 Jeep (6 Cyl Auto) not shifting into gear. It usually goes into 1st fine but when it's going into 2nd the engine revs up then it jerks into 2nd or 3rd.

    Any advice? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's often associated with a faulty clockspring, or a bad ground to the same.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There are several things that could be causing the problem, but there's little you can do yourself to fix it, though you might, just might, get away with a band adjustment (and of course a fluid and filter change).

    Generally, the nice thing about the 32RH transmission is that it reached the peak of it's development with the Wrangler. With the exception of rare QC problems which will usually show early in its life, the 32RH can usually be expected to last the life of the engine, which can easily be up to and beyond 250K miles.

    The exceptions are when it's contaminated, usually by water, when it's abused, usually by overheating, and when its servicing is neglected.

    Servicing is simple, cheap, and often ignored. It consists of fluid and filter changes, preferrably at 12k mile intervals, with band adjustment at the same time.

    That's it! :)

    If you want some extra insurance, especially if you tow, then add a transmission cooler and external filter for less than $100 in parts.
  • My blower quit working on my Jeep. I already threw some money at the problem with some new fuses and a new relay. If I take off the blower relay cover and complete the circuit by hand I can get the blower (and the AC/heat) to kick on (high speed only), but no luck when I just use the AC control knob. Any ideas? Could this just be my blower resistor? It also looks like my air bag light came on about the same time - not sure if that's a coincidence or not. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I already threw some money at the problem with some new fuses and a new relay.

    Had the relay and fuses that you replaced actually failed, and if so, did the new ones fail too?
  • mac24:

    No, relay and fuses ended up being fine and the new ones haven't failed.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If I take off the blower relay cover and complete the circuit by hand I can get the blower (and the AC/heat) to kick on (high speed only), but no luck when I just use the AC control knob.

    I take it you're using a link to bypass the relay. So, it sounds as if the circuit from the relay to the blower is good, and if the relay is also good, then the fault lies in the circuit that activates the relay. In that case, the most likely suspect is the switch itself. Just use a multimeter to check it.

    Failure of the slow speeds is usually related to a resistor failure, but a faulty switch may also do it. If you're lucky a new switch will fix both issues, but check it before changing it. If it's not the switch, it'll be an open circuit in the wiring between the switch and the relay.
  • Thank You. I'll definitely check the switch before I shell out any more cash.
  • annhickeyannhickey Posts: 1
    I'm in need of some advise. I have 2004 Jeep Wrangler X with 30,000 miles, and I bought it with 31" tires. Within the last month I have noticed a terrible shake in the jeep. It seem to happen after riding for long periods of time or driving in a place with lots of pot holes or bump. It almost feels like my tires are about to fall off! Any suggestions on what it could be??
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like one or more worn steering components. You could mask the problem by fitting a larger steering damper, but I don't advise it. That would be like taking pain killers for the axe in your head.......much better to remove the axe!

    Finally, although it's unlikely your tires will fall off, you should get it checked out as soon as possible. It shouldn't be too expensive to fix and it won't get better on its own.
  • 4green4green Posts: 1
    Hi fellow Wrangler owners. I have a 2004 Sahara that has a distinctive rattle/whump-whump from the right front when starting off. It's only prevalent then. Definitely sounds like something from the front drive line. I have only 10k miles on her. Anybody having a similar problem or have had?
  • lenny1563lenny1563 Posts: 3
    my tj has 93,000 miles and within the last 2 weeks i have been going through a difficult time. when the engine is cold and warming up too a 190 degrees the engine acts and sometimes stalls, even while driving. once the engine has warmed up to 190 degrees it seems to run okay. giving it some throttle i seem to lose power and i begin to backfire and start bucking ( all this before 190 deg.)I have replaced the IAC and map sensor, the cap and rotor and plugs. still have the problem. the engine light does not come on and cant seem to get any codes. I also ran sea foam through the tank and no changes. any suggestions. possibably an O2 sensor, whats left?
  • Been there and done that on my 98 Sahara. Your O2 sensor is not necessarily bad, but it's probably a crack in your exhuast manifold causing you O2 sensor to react. I went through everything (and I mean everthing) trying to figure out the cause of this problem. As your cracked manifold goes through its heat range, the crack expands and allows extra air to pass over your O2 sensor causing it to try to adjust the mixture. I think Mac is the one the pointed it out as a possible problem. I called 1A Auto Parts from their website # to get a manifold. After giving the guy on the phone all my info, he guessed that an exhaust manifold was what I was going to order. He said it is a common problem that Chrysler won't address. Never the less.... after installing the manifold and a new O2 sensor for good measure, it has ran like a top ever since. Good luck and let me how it turns out!
  • vafirmnvafirmn Posts: 3
    Check behind the vent selector knob, there should be a plug with three wires on it. Check those wires there may be a bad connection. thats the problem i had.
  • vafirmnvafirmn Posts: 3
    Sounds like the front hub needs to be replaced. Cost about 140.00 to 150.00.
  • vafirmnvafirmn Posts: 3
    Try replacing the crank positioning senser
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Try replacing the crank positioning senser

    A faulty CPS should throw a code. At least check before replacing it.
  • lenny1563lenny1563 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. Last spring i had replaced the exhaust manifold because the factory one had broke near the bottom, so i put the after market one on (the one with the flex bends). I will have this one checked just incase. again, thanks.
  • sopman44sopman44 Posts: 2
    About a week ago my friends and I were going down the highway at about 60mph. All of a sudden there was a loud bam and my driveshaft flew out behind the car. I got the driveshaft and both yokes and u-joints replaced. there is still a massive vibration from 10mph on. Everything in the car shakes even the steering wheel. The dealership said it was safe to drive, but it just seems to get worse. I'm guessing the straight shaft connecting the driveshaft to the transmission while in 2 wheel drive is bent? Its a 97 sport 6cyl with an ax15. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! :sick:
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    It is not safe.
    Who ever said it is safe is an idiot.
    You need to find another dealer to fix this thing the right way.
    A drive line problem that is so bad the whole car shakes can kill you.
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