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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • karlw90karlw90 Posts: 59
    ..I own a '05 Wrangler Unlimited w/29,500 miles on it..

    A major issue that has come up is when I'm braking, the entire Jeep shakes. The amount of shaking varies by the quickness of the braking or how fast I'm going.. but it shakes most of the time, sometimes quite severely. There's no issue w/acceleration and it drives fine at 75+ mph on the highway. Is this an issue with brake pads/rotors? (FYI -I just had a tuneup done about 4k ago at a Jeep dealer and they found nothing wrong with my brakes).

    Second issue.. much less severe.. somehow I lost "power" when on the 2nd tick of fan power. The 1st tick and 3rd and 4th work fine, but the fan goes dead on the 2nd. I also notice that when choosing the floor direction, no air is coming out on the drivers' side. Any ideas? :confuse:

  • pilot9pilot9 Posts: 3
    Burntup thanks for your message. We are trying to be a little picky and are still looking. The Engine damage is the real thing i'm thinking about.
  • can anyone help me find the part# for the rear transfer case seal. went looking under my jeep again.. and have a sling mark of oil around the aft flange mount that the rear driveshaft hooks to. i believe the flange is held on by a large casalated nut. and that there is a seal behind it.

    and i was wondering one other thing...i am going to change my clutch...if there is fluid on the manual trans cover plate will this be rear engine seal leaking or a front trans seal?

    all help appreciated
    Cheers Evil
  • When I encounter rough, bumpy blacktop at 45 mph or higher, front end shakes greatly. Could lose steering control. Only solution is slowing down. Front end shop examined and found no problem except loose nut which they tightened. Problem has returned. Vehicle has only 66000 miles on it, mostly gravel roads but no offroad.
  • "this Post Copied from thiscarabeth"

    This is often called "death wobble"
    As per post 974, check all steering components for looseness
    Check tire pressures
    Go to "Jeep Wrangler" (the main discussion in this forum) and search under "death wobble" for many posts - recently post 22851 and others nearby
    Lifts can aggravate wobble

    i personally had a front end alignment & my tires rebalanced (twice) to get rid of my DW.

    good luck & cheers
  • I have a 97 Wrangler and it seems the steering box is leaking somewhere near where the steering column enters the steering box. It has power steering, but doesn't seem to be coming from the connections from the lines. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Me too...
    I have power washed around the box and am going to check for the source of the leak. I think it is the seal on the pressure line where it enters the steering box. Looks like it is going to be pretty stupid to get to. ...might be the input shaft seal.
    Does it seem that the chrysler/jeeps are more dodge than Jeep?
  • Please help !!! This seemingly simple task is about to make me loose the plot :)

    I want to replace the paddle door handles and I am battling to remove the inside door panels! Is there some hidden voodoo spell I have carelessly overlooked?

    1) Do I need to remove the window winder, if so how?
    2) How go I safely remove the latch and locking linkage?

    Any tips, help or advice will be greatly appreciated, and pics will get you into my hall of fame. Please help guys...

    Novice Jeep Lunatic
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If it is leaking, best, easist, and probably cheapest solution is to just replace the steering box. You CAN use one from a Durango V8 from 1998 IIRC and it will be stronger and a bit less prone to leak. It is a straight swap replacement.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you have the half doors, this should help. If not, it should at least help you find your way a bit (probably a couple of extra steps or two for window cranks..)

  • Help, I am at the end of any knowledge that I thought I had in the subject. I have a 97 Wrangler, 6cyl, 5 speed. I have received a check engine light often for a couple of months and now it is on all the time. The trouble codes are 12(direct battery input to PCM disconnect) and 51(lean air/fuel mix). I smell a "sweet" exhaust, there is carbon build up around the exhaust pipe and when I accelerate hard I can see a plume of black smoke behind me. The plugs have a coating of carbon but otherwise appear in good condition. I can not find any vacume leaks and have been unable to detect any bare wires. Can the O2 sensor or MAP sensor be the problem (there are no fault codes indicating that they are bad)? Can I test them before replacing them? any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim
  • jwdeltajwdelta Posts: 1
    Back on July 20, while driving at highway speed, my 6 cyl 2004 started to miss. I managed to get it to the Jeep dealer ... WHO STILL HAS IT!

    It misses on only the No. 5 cylinder.

    They've replaced the coil assembly, the computer, they've checked compression ... and they've even put on a new head — even though there was nothing wrong with the old one ... they have tried everything.

    They put new head on it and put it all together today — and No. 5 still misses. Runs like a log truck!

    Anyone experience anything like this? I really feel the dealer is doing everything they can and are as frustrated as I am — except for the fact they aren't making the payments with it sitting in the shop!

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    For your errant cylinder to fire it needs only three things,

    (i) a spark (at the right time),
    (ii) compression,
    (iii) fuel (correct mix at the right time).

    Any mention of item (iii) seems to be missing from the dealer's attempts to solve a simple problem.
  • Hi all, hope you can help me out. I've just bought the above wrangler and i love it but i have a problem. She starts up fine but when the engines running up to temp (just before 100 on gauge)it hesitates and backfires with a near total loss of power for a min or 2 then clears as temp rises past it. Any ideas would be greatful, Mark
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Check for any codes. Go to Autozone and they can read the codes the engine is throwing. My guess is the throttle position sensor or one of the O2 sensors. The TPS replacement is a 10 minute job at most. The O2 sensors just take more contortion to get to, but not too tough to change out. TPS is about 53.00 or so while the O2 sensors are a bit more IIRC.

    Have you check the plugs and wires? May be worth putting on some Champion spark plugs and making sure the distributor cap is all good as well. Easy and relatively inexpensive to do.

  • b10kb10k Posts: 6
    i purchased a 98 wrangler sahara,and it has been flawless(except it turns over 10 times before it starts) since i bought it.over the summer,i noticed that when i ran the a/c,the engine would start to run rough.turn a/c off and ran fine.anyways,one night on the way to rescue call,i parked my jeep along side road and turned on flashers(ignition turned off)when i was finished,i headed back down road,and it died. i restarted it and went along,all of a sudden the highbeams switched to low beams and back on there own.since that night,it will run terrible at low idle.will run better when rpms increase.i was on my way to the local mechanic,and it died again.this time it fried to fuel pump relay.switched the relay with horn relay,and it restarted.mechanic not sure what is wrong.he replace the cap and rotor and test drove.would not duplicate it for him.i picked it up and drove for 2 days.started it one night and turned lights on,and low and behold it started to sputter again.turned lights off and it acted fine. i am stumped! please advise if any of you have experienced this.sorry this is so long, but wanted to describe best i could. thanks,bill
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Couple of issues here. First, your fuel system isn't holding pressure, maybe a leaking injector. That's why it has to spin over for so long before starting.

    Second, you have a low voltage issue, most likely a bad battery, though it could be poor connections. Once you get that sorted, have the alternator checked too.
  • Im not sure if this is the right place to be posting this but here i go.... My jeep for the past year now has been blowing holes in my muffler. Ive replaced mufflers 3 or 4 times now and it keeps happening, i have a lift and im on 33" tires and its only a 4 cylinder maybe the back pressure is to much with the stock exhause pipe? do to the load the tires stress on the engine? i dont know...So in the mean time ill patch it up seal it up and it will run pretty good until suddenly my rpm decrease like im running out of gas and then the engine back fires blowing out any seal i had put on there, same thing happens if muffler is brand new.. Now when i seal it up acceleration is good smooth runs fine but once it back fires like that and messes up my muffler my accleration is just about nothing at this point no power... idles rough seems to be missing and back fires while switching through gears now im thinking distributor problem but how does that incorporate into my exhaust system im kind of confused because if my muffler is fine acceleration is fine no back fires while switching gears only up to the point my seals blow out on the muffler or if it was newer muffler holes develope and same problems consist again.. If you have any info on this its highly appreciated. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    or if it was newer muffler holes develope and same problems consist again..

    Exactly what type of holes are appearing? I've seen a new muffler blown apart at the seams after a backfire, but there's no way it could be repaired with sealer.
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    To fold rear seat in upright position do this:
    Remove 3 retaining bolts from each seat support.You have 2
    seat supports, one on left side and one on right side.
    Before you remove seat supports from the floor mark them down with letter "L" and "R". Next step is very important.
    Seat support with letter "L" place backwards to RIGHT SIDE
    put back 3 retaining bolts and tighten them up.
    Seat support with letter "R" place backwards to LEFT SIDE,
    put back 3 retaining bolts and tighten them up.
    Put rear seat back on seat supports and you will be able to
    fold seat upright. Seat need to be secured in that position.
  • b10kb10k Posts: 6
    i installed a new battery and a new still will not charge over 13.8v. i also checked all connections and grounds. i am about to give up1
  • its at the seams i usually will seal it up wit quick steel but usually dont last to long... im just curious what exactly would be the cause of this.. i just do that because im tight on cash b/c im in school dont got the $ to re do at the moment.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    First of all, has there been any change in the low idle/stumbling situation? Second, did you have the old alternator checked before replacing it?

    The acceptable voltage range for most automobile electrical systems with the engine running is 13.7v - 14.4v. Even a new battery from the store won't be fully charged, so you can expect that figures will be at the lower of the range to start with. I take it that you are measuring voltage with a multimeter at the battery with the engine running?

    However, if things are still bad then the final suspect item is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM regulates the voltage output from the alternator, and controls the idle speed (as well as a hundred and one other things). The PCM responds to a low battery voltage with the symptoms that you mentioned, i.e. low idle/ stumbling/ stalling at low rpm, no idle up on a/c engagement.
    The PCM is dependant, though not totally, on the various sensor inputs to make its decisions. If it lacks an input it has a fallback 'safe' mode for that system.
    Before deciding that the PCM is bad it's worth doing some more circuit checking, especially the grounds to the PCM.

    Assuming your problem still exists, and the new battery and alternator are good, then the PCM is either receiving bad information (poor connections/grounds), or is itself bad.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's nothing to do with your lift or tire size, but everything to with an accumulation of unburnt fuel in the exhaust which explodes when ignited.

    Before anything else, check for codes. After that the next most likely suspect (of many) is an O2 (lambda) sensor.

    You might also try posting in the 'Up to 1996' version of this topic.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    I have a couple Jeeps that are running fine and they show the same charge voltage, 13.8 volts.
  • I'm looking to buy a used Jeep Wrangler, probably an 03, 04, or 05, and was wondering about how many miles can a Wrangler go before having problems? I've seen some with up to 75K miles and I don't want to buy one if they tend to start having problems in the 90 or 100K mark. I appreciate the feedback!
  • I just bought my first jeep it has a 4cylinder with 32" tires really doggish wanted to switch to a 6cyl. I was told I need to swap tranny can anybody help me out is this true?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Yes it is. You'll also have to swap the radiator and shroud, PCM, propeller shafts, exhaust, wiring harness, and a myriad of smaller items, plus fabricating new engine mounts.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Uh, not really the transmission, but if you have the stock gears in that SE, you could get quite a bit of the oomph back by regearing to 4.56 or 4.88.

    My SE has 33's and I loaded up 4.88 gearing and it does just fine, though it still struggles on the highway at times.

    If you DO swap from a 4 to a 6, the transmission would go from the AX-5 to the AX-15, unless you wanted to put in one of the newer NV transmissions. (assuming manual transmission here). The transmissions for the 4 cyl won't handle the power of the 6 cyl w/o breaking. May not happen right away, but it will at some point. :)

  • b10kb10k Posts: 6
    thanks for your reply xscout! i appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. and to mac24, you the man! my jeep will still sputter,but only on first start up when its cold and its under a load. it will sputter for 25-40 seconds,then will run fine until i shut it off,let it sit for awhile and then it will do the same.i am wondering if could be fuel regulator or bad plug wire?
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