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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's possible. Unless you know the service history, why not just go ahead and replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor anyway?.

    They probably need it, it will eliminate them as suspects (or it will fix the problem), and it will give you a baseline for future servicing of the ignition system.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,196
    I'm looking to buy a used Jeep Wrangler, probably an 03, 04, or 05, and was wondering about how many miles can a Wrangler go before having problems?

    I bought a 1999 Sahara five speed with 36K miles in 2004. It now has over 105K on it. In addition to scheduled maintenance I've fitted front pads/rear shoes, a radiator(all copper, replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum unit), front sway bar links, Bilstein HD shocks, and a Banks Torque tube exhaust manifold. I didn't really need to replace the shocks, I just prefer Bilsteins. The TJs you are looking at have a different exhaust manifold design so replacement should not be required. I change the oil(Mobil 1 5W-30) every 6K, the coolant every two years, and the diffs, transfer case, and manual transmission at 60K intervals(again using synthetics). I fully expect to get another 100K out of it at a minimal expense.
    Buy one. You won't regret it.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,196
    Unless you have a good inexpensive source for parts AND you can do all the work yourself, you'd probably be better off selling the four banger and buying a TJ with a six. That said, a MT four-banger isn't a bad ride. As erickpl noted, you probably just need a set of lower gears...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • You can get 250K+ out of the 4.0L inline six with proper maintenance (follow what RR just outlined). Most of the problems come earlier rather than later, once they've been worked out the thing will just keep running.
  • b10kb10k Posts: 6
    i just got done changing the cap and rotor,plug wires and ignition coil. if i let it sit and idle for 5-10 minutes,it will not miss a beat,but if i just take off,it will still stumble after a few seconds. after reading some other postings,i am going to unplug the o2 sensor and see what happens.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You won't hurt anything doing that, but you might also want to check if the PCM is holding any codes. Autozone will read it for free.
  • b10kb10k Posts: 6
    it was checked for codes and did not hold any,sorry i did not mention that.since i unhooked the front O2 sensor,it has ran with no more hesitation,but the check engine light stays on. does this tell me that if i replace the sensor and plug it back in,it will be fixed? thanks for all your are an asset to this site.
  • I have a 1999 Wrangler with the low beam not working. When you pull back on the high/low lever is it suppose to spring forward or stay in either a forward or a backward position?
  • I've found several posts related to the "Death Wobble", but didn't really see where anyone responded with what fixed it.

    I'm getting a terrible shaking of the whole jeep when I hit a bump while driving around 45-50. I shake is soo bad a car behind me stoped me afterwards because they thought the front wheel were gonna come off my jeep. The only way to get out of the wobble is to almost stop the vehicle.

    I've seen several posts that mention the same problem. Can someone please respond to indicate how to fix this thing... it's pretty scary!

  • The lever on my 98 doesn't spring back and never did. You push it back forward to get into low-beam mode.
  • Don,

    Looking over some old posts, it looks like these things work in different ways for different year models. :confuse:

    On my 2000 TJ, low-beam is in the centered position (front to back) pulling it back gives a momentary high-beam, releasing it lets it spring back to low-beam. Pushing it forward, it goes to hi-beam and stays until you pull it back to center.

  • nw1nw1 Posts: 1
    Don't know if this will help, had a wobble at the same speed but not real bad on my jeep. The rear tire was low. On my chev the front rotor was warped (death wobble real bad on that one) replaced, stopped.
  • You should definately replace the O2 sensor. It tells the computer if you have to much or too little oxygen coming through. Too much means too lean a gas mixture in the combustion and too little means its too dense. They are not that costly and easy to replace.
  • Everyone talks about how easy it is to remove the fender flares but mine are old. The problem I'm having is the bolts that screw into the metal are not coming out because the inserts are just spinning in the metal. I can't believe I'm the first one with this problem. Some bolts have clips they screw into and others screw right into the body metal and the inserts are just spinning. The first flare I took off I just ripped the 2 bolts and inserts right out of the metal but there has to be a better way. Any ideas???
  • b10kb10k Posts: 6
    :) thanks for the input. i changed the sensor and it has ran flawlessly.
  • I have a 4cyl and my computer says lean system 2 bank 1,what could the problem be,thanx...
  • Ok here goes. My jeep has 61,000 mi on it and I've owned it for about a month. About ten minutes into driving(repeatable... every time) my Jeep stalls out if I give it any gas. If I let it sit for 5 minutes, I can drive it another 20 feet before it dies again. If I let it cool down completely I can drive it for another ten minutes. I got a check engine light so I hooked it up to a reader. I got code P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). I cheacked the exhaust too see if it was red hot from perhaps a cat clog, and have already changed the map sensor. So after throwing 100 bucks down the toilet I've decided to cry out for some guidance. Any takers?
    Thanks. Randy
  • I'm having the same problem. It is currently at the dealer for the third time. At first they replaced the u joints. The second time, the steering damper. Now engineering is saying to put on an " aftermarket steering damper" Not acceptable to me on a new Jeep. Some of the off road guys mentioned tie rod ends, bushings & last but not least the steering box itself. I will let you know what the "pros" come up with & if it solves the problem
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Go to post 1028 and follow the thread from there if that sounds familiar.
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Please go to the main Jeep Wrangler message board. "Death wobble" can rise from any of the components of the steering system (including the tires). If you get under the Jeep and look for any looseness while your buddy moves the steering wheel left and right, you have a potential cause.
  • Ok, update time. I tried the O2 sensor and that wasn't it. Here's what else I'm now noticing. When I first start it up(cold) I can hear the fuel pump kick on. But right after it stalls about ten minutes into driving, when I turn the key I don't hear the pump. Not even laying right under the tank. I just hear it bubble a little. Once I let it sit for about 20 minutes, when I turn the key, I can hear the pump like normal again.
    So I know the the fuel system is a pressure system, and if it drops below a certain pressure, the pump shuts down. But what if it goes above a certain pressure? Like a half clogged fuel filter? Is the fuel filter inside the tank? Just a thought that I figured I'd throw out there before I go dropping my tank... Thanks for all the help.
  • Ok, another update, and this one narrows it down I think. I drove until my Jeep started to stumble again (about 10 minutes). Without letting it die completely, I just got out and hit the bottom of my tank a few good times with a rubber hammer. Then I got back in and it ran fine for another 30 minutes... just like that. It did it again, and I repeated hitting the gas tank, and it ran fine again all the way home. Does this mean that my fuel pump is going bad? or is it something else? Thanks.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Just a thought but on my old Mercury Mystique there was a "sock" in the fuel tank on the end of the fuel delivery tube to the internal fuel pump. I never had a problem with it but other owners reported that the sock could get clogged and cause intermittent problems.

    It sounds like you are breaking loose some debris in the tank when you hit it with a hammer and then it eventually settles back down and clogs the fuel line.

    Now that I think about it, I had an old '72 Impala many years ago that would run for a while and then stop. I replaced the inline fuel filter but it still acted up. The repair shop eventually pulled the tank and boiled it out because they discovered leaves and other things clogging the sock in the tank.
  • Ok, I dropped the tank and opened her up, and she was as clean as new. I have a lift in my garage so I've been able to inspect everything, and as far as I can tell, there are no leaks and no kinks anywhere in the system. I don't smell any gas in the engine campartment either, so I don't think that my injectors are leaking. Since banging on the bottom of the tank fixes it temporarily I can only conclude that my pump is going bad and a quick jolt is kicking it back on. But I'm not really a fuel system expert, so.... any other suggestions?

  • This same thing happened to my 97 Jeep Wrangler about 5 years ago. I did not have anywhere to work on it at the time so I sent it to a shop. I had the Fuel Pump and filter replaced and it worked fine (another 60K miles) until last week. It just started doing it again. I am not sure which one caused it- I wish I was because I am going to do it myself this time and I would rather just have to buy and replace a filter than both.
  • Hi, new to this forum. I have a 2000 Wrangler Sport. It is a great vehicle and is lots of fun. However it has been making a growling noise from the rear end when I turn a corner. It only does this after driving for a while on the highway. It does have the factory limited slip rear end. Has anybody run across this problem!

  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    How many miles? Last time the lube was changed in the rear end? This should have been done at 36k and 96k or any time you might have gotten water in the diffs.

    Might Just be a little Muddy Waters...
    ...dem tigers growl.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    And if they did change the differentials, did they add the special limited slip additive in with the fresh fluid?

    First thing, of course, is to crawl under your Jeep and check the differential to see if it's full of fluid.
  • ryanf1ryanf1 Posts: 1
    Hi Edalex

    hey, did you ever sort out the problem with the low oil pressure -- i have the same problem at the moment.

  • I have had the same diverter door problem since my 05 was new-- did you find a fix? dealer keeps telling me it won't do it for them--only has a problem after it sits for a few days. thanks
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